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Looking at a Springside Models 45xx any opinions


Matador

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Guest Isambarduk

Well, assuming 1 is low and 5 is high, on the basis of my one Springside model (a 14xx) I would say sort of 4- but I would give a definite 5 for the former Sevenscal L&Y pug, which is now made and marketed by Sprigside.

 

Both my models were buit in the early 80s and things have moved on but I think that, even today, they would be a good proposition.

 

 post-5428-0-97579000-1360951795_thumb.jpg

 

Still not a bad model for nearly thirty years old and it does show that my modelling standards don't appear to have improved any in the time!

More images at: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/GWR_48xx.htm

 

post-5428-0-68611300-1360951102.jpg

 

A slightly older model and same comment applies.

More images at: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/LandYpug.htm

 

David

 

aka DLOS

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Been a pro Model Builder here in the US for most of the last 30 years but I,m not into taking ions of time and working with a multitude of parts  (I,m semi retired) just want to play trains.

 

David

A Yorkshireman in the USA

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I've built the Springside 45XX and 94XX kits. The chassis are heavy and crude, but ran well, especially the 94XX, which I compensated. However, the castings for the superstructure lack finesse. The footplate of the 94XX was cast in three parts as I recall and required filling to and sanding to make it look like a single piece. Frankly, for the effort involved to get a good finish, I would go for the ex-Mitchell kit though David Smith's 14XX shows what can be done with a lot of patience. 

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Guest Isambarduk

Thank you for the compliment, Richard.  If I am honest, I have got a bit more adept at some things and I don't struggle with poor castings, for example, I just fabricate replacements, so in that sense at least, I have improved.

 

From the Springside website a '45xx locomotive kit  (complete)' is £403.50

 

From the JLTRT website 'GWR 4500 Class O gauge Loco kit' is from £295 with another £85 for the super detailing kit + the recommended Slaterswheels (3 of 7855W @ £20 plus 2 of 7837MF @£13.42 = £88.64) + the recommended Slaters motor/gearbox GB03 (assume that should be GB30R-3M) at £98.62 making a total of £567.26

    

 

Personally, I would also still go for the JLTRT option because, as Chris 81A says, although you can achieve a fair result with the Springside kit, it does indeed require a lot of patience, a good deal of determination and a fair amount of skill to adapt the kit to reach that stage.  I suppose it depends on whether you think all this extra effort is woth the price difference of £163.76 - for me, I'd rather spend that money and work with a finer product.

 

David

 

 

aka DLOS

 

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Have you looked at the Tower Brass RTR 45xx?  I've got one, and it has a lot going for it .

 

 It runs beautifully almost silently, and it looks right from every angle.  There are one or two imperfections in the model, mainly to do with the assembly;  One of the guard irons is back to front, but I shall be able to de solder and resolder that without a problem.  More awkwardly one of the outside steam pipes is very slightly mis aligned, but it is so minor that I can live with it as it would be very awkward to unsolder it - at least with my soldering skills.  

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Guest Isambarduk

"Have you looked at the Tower Brass RTR 45xx?"

 

That's a very good point.  Even though I enjoy scratch and kit building, I am quite a fan of the products of the Sang Cheng factory; I have recently acquired one of their RTR 45xx to join the growing queue to go into my workshop for a 'heavy general'/makeover - it is also a beautiful runner.

 

"More awkwardly one of the outside steam pipes is very slightly mis aligned ..."

 

I had this problem on my Jubilee, but it was very swiftly and easily sorted: I asked my wife to hold the loco firmly whilst I pushed a lolly stick (that had a notch cut into the end) against the offending steam pipe.  I then played a mini gas torch flame on it and, after what seemed like ages but was probably about ten seconds, 'ping' and it had snuggled down into postion - I whipped the flame away held the postion for a few seconds ... and then started to breath again!

 

I realize that your case may not be as simple as that but, looking at my 45xx, I think the steam pipe could easily be removed with a mini gas torch and then reattaced the same way.  Hope this helps.

 

David

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Guest Isambarduk

Fair enough, PD&SWJR.  I do agree that the chasses and the lower detail (or lack of it) do rather let down these RTR models.  However, as I illustrated on my reworking of the 8F, with a degree of effort and patience they can be lifted to the qualities of the bodies.

 

David

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"More awkwardly one of the outside steam pipes is very slightly mis aligned ..."

 

I had this problem on my Jubilee, but it was very swiftly and easily sorted: I asked my wife to hold the loco firmly whilst I pushed a lolly stick (that had a notch cut into the end) against the offending steam pipe.  I then played a mini gas torch flame on it and, after what seemed like ages but was probably about ten seconds, 'ping' and it had snuggled down into postion - I whipped the flame away held the postion for a few seconds ... and then started to breath again!

 

 

 

 

Thanks for that David, I can imagine that would work; i'm a bit anxious about long periods of heat applied to an expensive model.  I have visions of other bits dropping off. Perhaps resistance soldering would work?  

 

When I've built 4mm stuff from scratch I haven't worried so much but I think I was less fussy about my standards, and less worried about the cost of the model!  If I can pluck up courage I'll have a go, otherwise I'll live with it.  

 

The other rtr model I'm looking forward to seeing is the forthcoming Lionheart 45xx with the earlier flat topped tanks.  I know it's not built in the same way as their pannier, but they seem to have set themselves a very high standard.

 

Sorry to have diverted the thread  from kits to rtr!  As I've got older I feel more willing to take short cuts including really good rtr models when my main interest lies in creating a layout rather than just building engines, but I wouldn't want to detract from the fantastic models some people make.   I would love a good model of a Bulldog and/or an early Manor; I sometimes ogle the pictures on Finescalebrass' website of their manor, but the price tag rules that out at the moment.   Who knows? Maybe I'll build one.

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I've built the Springside 45XX and 94XX kits. The chassis are heavy and crude, but ran well, especially the 94XX, which I compensated. However, the castings for the superstructure lack finesse. The footplate of the 94XX was cast in three parts as I recall and required filling to and sanding to make it look like a single piece. Frankly, for the effort involved to get a good finish, I would go for the ex-Mitchell kit though David Smith's 14XX shows what can be done with a lot of patience. 

I would say no, no no!  Time has moved on since the mid 80's and whilst there is some excellent detail in the Springside, the crudeness  of chassis and thickness of the footplate and steps etc especially are against it.  You might get one on auction for less than half the list price in which case a qualified yes.  I had to replace the wheels as they were never going to be square on the axles so that hurt the budget. At least one bodger had attacked the kit and failed hence I also needed buffers and quite a few lost wax items. Refer my thread  on RMW "Springside 45xx" from last year. BTW, I reckon half the power of the motor is lost shifting the hefty body.  Tower sold the last few Springsides on their shelves last year at seriously discounted prices and that must say something.

 

 

 

I would say go for the modern third gen Warren Shephard kit or the now elderly Mitchell if you have the patience. 

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Guest Isambarduk

" ... the Saint looks gorgeous ."

 

Thank you, Stringfingerling.  I built Saint David in 1990, so it's a good age now and has run many miles, but it's still one of my all-time favourites - isn't it odd how we build some models and they are perfectly 'OK' but others really make a lasting impression; I cannot really explain it.  My Dean Goods is another 'older model' and that has alway captured something with me and also remains a firm favourite.

 

David

 

Saint at: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/GWR_Saint_David.htm

Dean Goods at: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/GWR_Dean_Goods.htm

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  • 10 months later...

Long time since this was posted, but if is any help, I have built a Springside Hall (love it, but it was a challenge - photo on my "Porth Dinllaen in O" thread), a 14/48xx (needed compensation - you can't run an 0-4-2 without, IMO) and a 45xx - my first O gauge loco, rigid chassis and Portescap with Lenz DCC chip?

 

I really like whitemetal kits, always solder (it is NOT difficult - a temperature controller is needed) and would definitely build another!

 

I have built a few brass ones too - Mitchell, Finney, Shepherd, Severn & Acorn, but the WM is still good!

 

Merry Christmas!

SD

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