Earlswood Nob Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Hello to all big tank fans I have decided to convert an old Kays O4 into a S1 humpshunter (Wath Daisy). It was one of the first kits I built and I stuck it together with glue, probably evo-stick. The O4 was a real amateurish attempt (not that my present efforts are perfect) with many imperfections. I guess that nitromors will remove the glue (it removes most things), but is there a "less nasty" solution. Any suggestions will be welcome. The S1 will be a quiet simple job: Shortened footplate with plasticard extension to rear Larger sandbox on front splasher Plasticard sidetanks, cab, & bunker Comet rear bogie Mashima motor with High Level Loadhauler 80:1 gearbox (or even 108:1) I can almost see it crawling along the track now Earlswood Nob (a signalbox & pub nickname where I grew up) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Funnily enough I'd be tempted to try soaking it in water for a day or two. Start off warm and add a couple of drops of washing up liquid. You won't harm it as it'll just air dry afterwards. The success of this depends on how long it's been glued together as the nature of the glue changees over time - the older the glue the easier. If it dooesn't work then try a different method. I've successfully parted things with old evostick using this method. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 White spirit will usually dissolve Evo-stik (as will Nitromors!). I believe petrol and brake fluid will also work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted March 13, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 13, 2010 Many years ago I was faced with repainting a GEM Cardean. My first thoughts were Nitromos paint remover.I wasn't going to harm anything. Result a complete kit of parts all unpainted. The adhesive that had been used by the builder was UHU. Could try that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 Hiya everyone The white spirit idea sounds good. Probably because I have an old bottle of white spirit handy. The O4 is now soaking in white spirit in an old breadpan on the loo windowsill. Thanks for the suggestions Earlswood Nob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixteen 12by 10s Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Hi Being just old enoughto remember what we used to do to separate Araldited white metalkits, you need Nitromors paint striper. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 If the kit was assembled with Pafra glue, then all you need to do is run it at full speed into the buffer stops, at which point the loco will split into its component parts Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 You could use an old saucepan and boil some water in it. Providing you do not let the metal touch the bottom of the pan the heat will un-stick quick set epoxy. Small parts come in-stuck in a few seconds, larger parts take longer. I use this method when Nitromores will not unstick parts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chertsey chopper Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 Brake fluid? I'm nit sure I'd try it. A friend of mine is a body builder and paint sprayer in a coachworks and has often had insurance jobs where brake fluid was applied to some poor unfortunate's car. The result was an impregnated metal surface that was unsprayable and would in time blister up and that there was no end of trouble, but that was on steel panelling. I'm probably not a person to argue advice given by others I consider much more knowledgeable than me, and I know that some metals (white metal or brass) may react differently against certain chemical strippers than others, but has anyone else tried it? jules Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted April 30, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 30, 2015 So Nitromors stripper can 'undo' ancient two part epoxy? If so that would be helpful news. Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 This K's tram used epoxy to stick it together (some say the longer curing type will not be affected) It was a bit of a mess in places and had a good soak in a mix of caustic soda (a heaped tablespoon of caustic soda to 1 pint of water, mix it in whilst adding the powder to the water) I have found Nitromores in its new formula is much weaker than the previous mixture, and is not so good at moving the paint. I have heard that oven cleaner is also very good (the item being kept in a sealed plastic bag for 24 hours). As you can see the tram has come up very well, no signs of either glue or paint. There was quite a bit of glue in the spokes of one cow catcher. This came away without causing any damage (the 3 spokes were already missing) even the buffers released themselves. I have also found immersing parts in boiling water also degrades 2 part glue and melts low melt solder I have found that the soda mix last a few weeks and can be reused. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thane of Fife Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 The active component in oven cleaner is Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda), so it is much cheaper to buy crystals from the hardware shop. Care must be taken using caustic soda as it can be nasty. ALWAYS add crystals to water, NEVER add water to crystals. I wear rubber gloves and googles when using it. I find that a caustic soda bath is useful for removing paint. It will remove most paints from plastic without dissolving the plastic. It is a slow reaction and it needs to be left overnight in most cases. Thane of fife Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I soaked a Wills whitemetal kit that had been badly assembled with superglue in a jar of brake fluid. It fell apart in a most satisfactory way. I drained it off, collected the components and cleaned them thoroughly with white spirit. There were no problems reassembling it and painting it (Phoenix enamels). The loco and paint job are still going strong 30 years later. Probably best not to recycle the brake fluid in your car though..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 The active component in oven cleaner is Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda), so it is much cheaper to buy crystals from the hardware shop. Care must be taken using caustic soda as it can be nasty. ALWAYS add crystals to water, NEVER add water to crystals. I wear rubber gloves and googles when using it. I find that a caustic soda bath is useful for removing paint. It will remove most paints from plastic without dissolving the plastic. It is a slow reaction and it needs to be left overnight in most cases. Thane of fife I buy mine from B&Q. NEVER put aluminium in the solution as it both dissolves it and gives off a very dangerous gas. Some times it takes a few days to really work Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thane of Fife Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 34017 wrote: I soaked a Wills whitemetal kit that had been badly assembled with superglue in a jar of brake fluid. It fell apart in a most satisfactory way Thanks for the info 34017. I have often wondered about how to disassemble kits made with superglue. I don't have any to disassemble at the moment, but it's useful to know how to do it. Thane of Fife Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 ...I wear rubber gloves and googles when using it..... Wow, you do an internet search at the same time? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 I soaked a Wills whitemetal kit that had been badly assembled with superglue in a jar of brake fluid. It fell apart in a most satisfactory way. I drained it off, collected the components and cleaned them thoroughly with white spirit. There were no problems reassembling it and painting it (Phoenix enamels). The loco and paint job are still going strong 30 years later. Probably best not to recycle the brake fluid in your car though..... Thirty odd years ago and more recently this would have worked But I am not sure this will still work as brake fluid is now silicone based (DOT 5 ) which may also give you problems getting the paint to stick afterwards unless you use another fluid to clean the brake fluid or you can find DOT 4 around some where The formulation was changed ten + years ago to stop brake fluid absorbing water ( not relevant to us) and to stop it so easily at ting you cars paint ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focalplane Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Believe it or not, caustic soda was used to tenderize old carrots before they were canned. I know because I had a temporary job at Stratford on Avon Canners (SONA brand) when a student in the 1960s. I have never eaten canned carrots since! You won't find SONA brand anymore, the site is now a Travelodge on the Birmingham Road. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Thirty odd years ago and more recently this would have worked But I am not sure this will still work as brake fluid is now silicone based (DOT 5 ) which may also give you problems getting the paint to stick afterwards unless you use another fluid to clean the brake fluid or you can find DOT 4 around some where The formulation was changed ten + years ago to stop brake fluid absorbing water ( not relevant to us) and to stop it so easily at ting you cars paint ! Thanks for pointing that out. I remember that spilt brake fluid used to ruin car paintwork (i never tried it on my Triumph Spitfire but it certainly did a good job of stripping the paint from the whitemetal kit). Clearly things have moved on! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted May 1, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 1, 2015 If all else fails, hammer and chisel! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meil Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Believe it or not, caustic soda was used to tenderize old carrots before they were canned. I know because I had a temporary job at Stratford on Avon Canners (SONA brand) when a student in the 1960s. I have never eaten canned carrots since! You won't find SONA brand anymore, the site is now a Travelodge on the Birmingham Road. It's also used to put the shine on pretzels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted May 2, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 2, 2015 If all else fails, hammer and chisel! Are you being serious here? P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thane of Fife Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 I believe Dot 4 is still available, which is ether based. Dot 3 is discontinued, but AFAIK contained a stronger ether constituent. Dot 5 is silicon based, so would be useless for paint stripping etc. Thane of fife Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 I believe Dot 4 is still available, which is ether based. Dot 3 is discontinued, but AFAIK contained a stronger ether constituent. Dot 5 is silicon based, so would be useless for paint stripping etc. DoT 4 fluid is widely available since it is the minimum standard for all production cars. Your local branch of Halfrauds or motor factors will have it. I haven't seen DoT 5 fluid for years. DoT 5.1 fluid is basically DoT 4, but with a higher boiling point. Supposedly better for performance cars. I've got several bottles of it, as I'll be using it in the diesel Bora at the next fluid change. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 DoT 4 fluid is widely available since it is the minimum standard for all production cars. Your local branch of Halfrauds or motor factors will have it. I haven't seen DoT 5 fluid for years. DoT 5.1 fluid is basically DoT 4, but with a higher boiling point. Supposedly better for performance cars. I've got several bottles of it, as I'll be using it in the diesel Bora at the next fluid change. There you go things keep changing all the time , things move on in the ten years out of the trade after reading this I went off and did a look at Wikipedia I have Just woken back up from reading all of the boring stuff and of all the changes and we do seam to be back to polyethylene based stuff with 5.1 DOT 5 is still around and used in classic cars , but that is of no use or help to us So I will shut up and say no more especially as I have all ways used caustic soda ,,it's ,cheeper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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