46444

Really beautiful work Dave and inspirational too.

The cleanliness of your work is something to behold.

This is going to be a great looking model.

Cheers,

Mark

Morning Pete,

Like others have said a real shock but one I imagined was on the cards.  To see CJM reduced to this is very sad.  However, as you say it never ran as you wanted it too and at least you have a chance to to revisit CJM and like a phoenix rise from the ashes having learnt from the first incarnation.

Like Rich says-keep the sketches coming and I imagine they'll be some inspiraration gleaned from these and after the the dust of the move has settled perhaps modelling can resume. 

I certainly hope so.

Cheers,

Mark

Morning Alex,

The bufffers are the kit ones with replacement turned buffer heads fitted.

Again for an LNER example they may be the wrong type.

Cheers,

Mark

That Airfix/Dapol kit is so good. I know about the roof and the ducket height but you have demonstrated its potential.  Will the Bachmann and Hornby ones be around in 50 years time I wonder?

 

On a different subject entirely, I do like Juniper Hills fences.

Thanks Alex,

Totally agree with you and about the Dapol/Airfix kit-it does scrub up well with a bit of work. I've the BR version to complete which is sat in front of me.

I guess the Bachmann/Hornby ones will still be around in 50 years time-will the Dapol kit be around though?

Cheers,

Mark

Evening Marcus,

I've just been looking through my copy of Steam Railways in Colour Around Northamptonshire by Coleman and Rajczonek (1993) which has a nice shot of Kimbolton station on the last day of passenger service showing the road bridge.  The abutments do look like worn engineering brick.

As for the platforms the Kettering side (Station building) has coping stones edging the platform but on the Cambridge side the coping looks like engineering brick painted white.

There's also a colour shot of Grafham taken in May 1959 with 46496 stood at the platform.  Once again the coping looks like engineering brick painted white.

There is also a lovely shot of 46404 in freshly painted plain black passing by Raunds signal box (Which has 3 of the larger style windows. My mistake in my first post)

It may be worth trying to source this book and others in the series because there are some good shots of the line.

Hope that helps?

Cheers,

Mark

 

What's happened to the Shakatak CD now it no longer has a box?

Whooooooo! Before my time Pete-Honest!

Well ok-it was my Best of Steps CD. 

As for Shakatak-well thats a blast from the past.  May have to see if I've the 12 inch extended remix somewhere in the stash of dodgy 1980's records in my parents loft.

Thanks for the comments too.

Cheers,

Mark

Evening 46403,

That's a really lovely job you've made on the signal box which is similiar to the one at Raunds.  It will look good finished in its green and cream Eastern region colours as per Alex's photographs.

The bridge is a nice piece of modelling too.  I can't remember if the bridge at Kimbolton still exists or has been filled in.  If it is and you want some photos I can take some for you.  It's interesting how the choice of brick for buildings and bridges came in at Kimbolton. Infrastructure before that was limestone as you probably are aware. Bridges still exist at Raunds, Twyell and Cranford if you want photos of them too, though obviously with limestone abutments.

Look forwards to the next post.

Cheers,

Mark

Really lovely work Dave. 

Look forwards to the next post.

Cheers,

Mark

Morning Alex,

That's a really great transformation of an RB19 in to something that ressembles a scale model of the real thing.

Some lovely touches and the addition of the interior has further enhanced it.  I may borrow your idea for the exhaust stack an put a longer one on my RB.

Be nice to see some pictures of it down by the Ouse soon

Cheers,

Mark

What a great scene. A couple of powerful beasts there. The yard lamp and vegetation are very nice too! 

Thanks Mikkel. 

I see you resisted the bait then...

I thought you were having a funny five minutes initially

Now I know!

Yep! 7 mm next after the Teign Valley project.  Saying that need to save for that Lionheart 74xx.

Cheers,

Mark

 

Multisided nail files

Handy for a nice manicure in between jobs!

That's ok.  Now's the time to start.  If you look on the Layout and Workbench content on the main page there's a link for Layout Topics and you can start a layout thread there.

Your modelling looks good and there's plenty of promise in this layout. What you've done with the engine shed shows that.

Don't be afraid to post as we've all been there and made mistakes.  I always think it takes a lot of courage to put your work up on here for people to look at.

There's always plenty of help and advice available too if you need it.

Be positive as well-your layout isn't a 'nightmare' either.  You're modelling and it should make you happy!

Cheers,

Mark

Looks like an interesting track layout.

May be worth starting a layout thread as well.

Keep the posts coming.

Cheers,

Mark

Thanks Robin,

As for the wrong shade well brown reigns supreme in Kingsteignton!   As specified by Mr Luscombe himself.

Cheers,

Mark

Great modeling. Love the atmosfeer.

Thanks as well Job.

The weathering on the FSR is just right...particularly on the front roller

 

Some great low level shots with the Pannier too.

Thanks Pete,

Yes it was a nice little project over a couple of days-one that could be finished easily.

Cheers,

Mark

Smashing work Mark.

 

Is that a young Peter Gray behind the camera?

 

Sanding levers on the 8750........marvellous. I also like your yard lamp, is it scratch built?

 

Andy.

Thanks Andy,

Good to hear from you.

Hopefully you've looked through the my previous entries on detailing the 8750 and the sand box pull rods?  They are the excellent etched versions from RT Models and add that little finishing touch to the already excellent Bachmann model.

I'll do a blog entry soon.  Just need to finish the weathering and add a few details.

The yard lamp was made from a Ratio telegraph pole and signal ladder with a lamp from the cattle dock kit.  A bit of scrap etch was used for the capping and staples cut to length for the stays on the ladder.

As for the photographer-he's a friend of Norman Lockett

Cheers,

Mark

Thanks Miss P an BT.

According to a reliable source the camera may well be a Thornton-Pickard Reflex camera as used by no other than Norman Lockett .

Nice work CK.

Really looks the part on Callow Lane.

Think the goods shed may need a few of those red/white 'Limited Clearance' signs on the door way when the Class 128 is present however

Look forwards to seeing the finished article.

Cheers,

Mark

Buckden like most of the stations on the line was very elongated with the platform/station building followed by the goods loop and yard further doen the line.

Like you've highlighted this does take up a lot of space but the compromise in the goods loop all looks good and you've got that all inportant feeling of space.

Keep the posts coming.

Cheers,

Mark

Thanks Pete for those kind words. Thanks as well Pete. It's been a bit of a labour of love really. Sadly, I messed up the gearbox so round 2 soon with a High Level one. If all else fails it can be a static exhibit :-D. Cheers, Mark

Thanks Alex,

Totally agree with you though on the points you've made.

Always best to look at the prototype as opposed to going for that nice uniform approach.

I'll have to look out for that airbrush cleaner because cellulose thinners is pretty potent stuff.  Interesting point about thinning Tamiya acrylics with windscreen washer fluid.  Guess it must be due to the amount of alcohol in the mixture?

Cheers,

Mark

Looks good. When you read the military modelling mags you come across a lot of interesting weathering techniques that have yet to translate over into model trains (oil dots and so on), so good to see this one being put to good effect. I've yet to try it on a plane, let alone a railway model.

Thanks Al.

Totally agree with you and military modellers have certainly got the art of weathering off to a 't'.

Cheers,

Mark

I've not used Acrylic much yet myself. I'm curious what you use to clean the airbrush afterwards because I found that it left a nice tide mark in the cup that was hard to shift without resorting to some strong solvents... which rather negates one of the quoted advantages of acrylic.

 

Thanks Andy,

Yes, a good point.  The great debate on acrylics clogging up airbrushes.

I do seem to have problems spraying Valejo acrylics which are diluted with water.  Cleaning the brush up afterwards usually involves using cellulose thinners but I use that after spraying acrylics or enamels-giving the brush a good blast of cellulose as well as putting a finger over the needle cowl to creat some back pressure. I always wear gloves when spraying though.

Tamiya acrylics are the nicest paints I use.  Tamiya would make you believe you need to usetheir thinners but car windscreen washer fluid is just as effective.  The paints mix well in the cup and clean up easily.  First by wiping the cup out with kitchen roll and cotton buds. I then blast some screen washer fluid through the brush, followed by celluose thinners.

I always remove the needle and make sure its clean and put a light coating of Vaseline on it to ensure a smooth action.

I've ever once had to thoroughly soak the brusk in cellulose to clean the channels following extensive acrylic use.

One thing I have found though are acrylics aren't as hard wearing as enamels and are porous-hence the coat of Klear.  After that you can apply washes effectively before applying a coat of varnish.

Cheers,

Mark