2mmMark
-
Posts
1,265 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Events
Exhibition Layout Details
Store
Everything posted by 2mmMark
-
Thanks - looks like yet another obsolete legacy product that you wish you'd stocked up on. Speaking of legacy products, the Heki paint has possibilties used in conjunction with the plastic moulded "thin sleeper" track, some of which I still have. Mark
-
Our local Tesco currently has various Gorilla glues on special offer. I stocked up on the two types of superglue.
-
David - a question if I may. Do the relays you use for point control & electromagnets have any designation on them?
-
95mm radius? No problem, just whip off the centre flanges.
-
I've been experimenting with a Trumpeter riveting tool. Aeromodellers use these to make indented rivets but it's very effective at producing raised rivets in thin brass but it does have a tendency to coil the metal However, those rivets on the Buffalo are quite special. I'm not sure the Trumpeter tool would achieve the same result.
-
Foxcote New Pit - formerly Highbury Colliery
2mmMark replied to queensquare's topic in 2mm Finescale
Looks like a simple cliff railway to me. Just need to put the fun in funicular. -
Foxcote New Pit - formerly Highbury Colliery
2mmMark replied to queensquare's topic in 2mm Finescale
Aww, c'mon, I'm sure Mr. Greenwood might have an idea or two... -
Allen Doherty (Worsley Works) has etches for the various types of 04, including the specific W&U version. Could be a useful source of parts for converting the Farish body. There will be a scale difference as Allen's are to 1:152, although he may have an option for 1:148 scale. Building the complete body from the etch would be a gentle intro into etched kit assembly, it's not a complicated build. Mark
-
The Association rods are designed to be laminated so just fold them so the fluting is on the inside faces. I attempted to cut down a Minitrix motor which wasn't successful. I did cut down a Fleischmann motor which went into the first Sentinel I built. That did work well. I don't really know why I did it when Tenshodos were already available. I expect it was a Sunday afternoon and I wanted to build it right now as I had most of the other bits I needed. Inherited from Denys Brownlee, I have a tin of bits which was going to become a model of Viking (IoMR no. 17). There's a couple of partially complete handbuilt coreless motors but the actual chassis is using a readymade tiny can motor which had just become available. Thankfully we now have lots of people out in the far east working in electric motor asylums.
-
C Class has the same wheelbase as a Jinty but the rods are very slightly fishbellied. There's a good drawing in Model Railway News, December 1968. I have a scanned copy if required. This drawing seems to exaggerate the shape somewhat: A popular 2mm subject. It was the subject of an early 2mm whitemetal kit in the 1960s, Andrew Cox had the Jidenco(!) kit etched down from 4mm and Nick Tilston (N Brass) does a whitemetal/etched kit. Incidentally, I think it's a little bit cheeky to describe building a motor as "insane". At the time Stewart Hine built his 45XX in the early 1960s, it was the only option. Mark
-
At the next LT Museum Acton Depot Open Weekend, July 7th & 8th. https://www.ltmuseum.co.uk/whats-on/museum-depot/open-weekends Very accessible by public transport, being close to Acton Town station. This particular event is aimed at families and younger visitors. Mark
-
It's interesting to read that he married his partner on Friday. Almost certainly because of inheritance tax. It's the only area of UK law that does not recognise common law relationships. edit: Polybear had the same thought as I did. It would be good if this was more widely publicised. It also affects beneficiaries of the surviving partner on their death as the IHT allowances of each marriage partner can be combined, giving a larger IHT allowance of £650,000 instead of £325,000. RIP.
-
And here is the plan I sketched with a view to building a layout. Mark
-
They're going to be the rolling stock for the final diesel fifteen guinea special.
-
I came across a nice little station when I was touring on the Rhine in 1990. Emmelshausen was an intermediate station on the Simmern-Boppard branch but the line was truncated in the 1960s at Emmelshausen, leaving a neat little 3 turnout terminus, a loop and one siding. These are scans from 35mm prints so the quality isn't brilliant. It was also evening and the light was going. Unfortunately I didn't see any trains but I believe it was operated by a BR212 & a Silverfish push-pull coach. I saw this combination at Boppard earlier in the day. As can be seen, there's evidence of freight working too. I drew a track plan and as soon as I can locate it, I'll scan it in and add it here. It would be easy to adapt to a through station. Mark
-
Here's a couple of shots of my version which is a static model sitting on Burwell Fen's loco coal road. I painted the outside matt black and dry-bushed it with a very light grey until I got the depth of colour which looked about right. I tend to err on the lighter side. The strapping was picked out in a dark rust colour. The inside was painted to represent bare wood, strapping again picked out in rust colour and then dry brushed with black so it looked a powdery coating of coal dust. Then the coal load was added. Chassis was painted the dark rusty colour and given a wash of Rustall, an American weathering product. No lettering as yet. I think there is some appropriate lettering on one of the Mastermodels sheets. Mark
-
It's fair to expect a bit of a markup on imports from UK retailers but 66% over the market price? Really? Even with the Royal Mail fees & VAT, it's still going to be cheaper to import personally.. :-/
-
Some photos of Samson from Facebook
-
It's available but you have to go to specialist paint suppliers and you may find you have to buy in much larger quantities than normal. Here's one supplier: http://www.craftmasterpaints.co.uk/products/automotive-cellulose/ "Please note we can only sell Automotive Cellulose for use on Classic Vehicles." The elfin safety brigade have a lot to answer for. A far cry from when you could pop into pretty much any car spares place and buy a small tin of cellulose "Brushing Belco". Enamel paint will harden but takes a lot longer. As Tim says, heat helps, but it's a different technique. Giles Favell uses enamels and gets some stunning results. The Garrat in this thread has a very realistic finish. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/96274-denton-brook-7mm-industrial/
-
There were two types of unpowered Lone Star. The original 1957 "Locos" range were pretty much half size copies of current Triang and Hornby Dublo models. The gauge was 8.25mm and was all diecast except for a few scenic items. The "Treble-O-Trains" appeared in the late 1960s and were a mix of the push along and electric bodies on 9mm gauge underframes. The wheels were plastic to enable them to sit on N gauge track. There wasn't a B unit but the A unit was quite an accurate rendition. The European loco would be the US 0-8-0 minus its tender, which was powered in electric guise. Track was moulded plastic, similar in looks to the "Locos" track. Mark
-
Still got some. Quite a lot actually.
-
It might be a bit too late but it occured to me that you could replicate a channel solebar by add some thin card either side of the ply. Like this: Mark
-
Most of the wiring on my my layouts has come from recycled twisted pair network cable. I rescued a load of it from the recycling bins at work when our offices were being upgraded. This gave me red, black, white & green stranded copper wire. So my wiring scheme ever since has been red & black - running rails, white - common for crossings etc., green - AC feeds for controllers & magnets. I would highly recommend the little soft plastic sleeves David has used on the toggle switches. As well as giving useful colour coding, they make the switches comfortable to operate. When exhibiting, you do become aware of just how often the direction switch on a controller is operated...! Mark
-
An alternative to the cast brass sleepers would be PCB sleepers with chairplates. It's reasonably easy to solder a feed wire to the sleeper and this way you'll have a continuous soldered electrical path to the rail. Soldering gets easier with experience. Are you using a thin gauge of solder wire (0.5mm or thinner)? This gives you a lot more control over the soldering process.
-
It's fascinating to see the use of laser cutting to get some nicely outlined but in this case, I wonder if thin card might not have been a better choice, having an ungrained surface finish.
