Giles

I've been following he Emblazer for some time - in two minds as to whether to get one - so it's great to see someone on this forum with one! Although you finding that damn spider with it probably puts me off for good. I recall that running the laser at 100% shortens its life though? Please keep us updated with your experiments and how you get along!

Absolutely - that's why I said 'towards', rather than 'to'...... The n/s footplate is good, but the wire has a very high point load because of it's small area. On 10 1/4" locos (for instance) I use two flat plates with grease for this very application. If sorting the back-to-back doesn't cure it (and I hope it does) then you may need to look at the geometry to help - as the pivot is likely to be too close to the pony wheels. Baldrey's Rule defines the ideal position. Since you have the drive gear in the way, the pivot could be simulated either by two splayed links, or by using a radial truck. However, let's hope it's the back to back. Giles

If your springs are doing their job, It's possible that they're inhibiting the sideways movement of the pony truck under pressure, leading to wheels climbing instead of following a curve. (Assuming you've got the free and easy rocking as already discussed, and that you can pick one wheel up by itself...). Temporarily removing the springing would show that, and a cure for it may be to fold the springs back under themselves, so they acted much closer to the pivot, rather than so far out-board as at present. Or introducing a low friction sliding plate instead of wipers if they are 'grabbing'

Well done! Great that a Model Shop will open, when we're so used to them closing!

Dammit....... I saw this topic and thought this was it......! Is that with Drinks and Nibbles then Chris?

Last time I did water, I 'cast' a bed with hydrocal plaster to a)give me a flat bed and b) to seal it and make sure there were no holes (some of the resins react with polystyrene a of course...). I then Glued a soil etc. Layer on top of this (and up the sides) before pouring the water. Don't forget the brass bed-stead......

Modelling Clay shrinks like anything! Das less so.... Also, structures can be braced to withstand the curling (although the surface material may still crack and break off). I always put a wipe of PVA over whatever material I am using, so the Das, clay or cement is glued down. This of course still leaves cracking with shrinkage, but gaps can be files with more of the same. The other trick is to 'balance' the board, so you put a layer of Das, clay or cement on the reverse side as well. This may sound silly, but it works, and boards remain straight. This is what I have done on the buildings for Denton Brook (using fire cement) I've been using Hobby crafts modelling clay for the setts on Denton Brook, as I like the texture, so I feel for you regarding the shrinkage (.....the gaps I've filled!) Daz doesn't do it for me in most instances as it's fibrous, appearing to be paper-based (do correct me if I'm wrong!) Good luck, Giles

However, over January, an additional 'run-round' on the BR line was added to make operation easier (it will also help the 'balance' of the layout)

Thank you! There's a slight pause at the moment whilst I finish off my 0-14 Wren, as I owe an article to the Narrow Gauge and Industrial Review on its construction........ Not far off now, though. (Probably the most silver-soldered loco in existence!)

They're rather fun in a mad way - I also like some of the Foden and Sentinal steam lorry conversions, for the same reason! However, none will find a home on this layout, as they couldn't cope with the bank......! (There's always next time though....)

It would never have occurred to me in a month of Sundays to use that colour for locos - but it's great! It takes lettering and weathering beautifully..... A little more in the join between tank and boiler, the buffer beams and your soot over the boiler top, and you've got something rather special. I think it (and the Fowler)'s absolutely super.

There is no reason why you couldn't do what would become an invisible cheat, leaving everyone non the wiser, and solder in a strip of brass into the open gap to support the otherwise unsupported nose, and dress it back afterwards. I would solder in the tip of a long strip, and then cut it off in situ, rather than try and solder in a teeny square. Given that it will then be hidden by the wing rails, I would suggest that it would be just about indistinguishable from the conventionally made version.

At noon on Sunday, I ordered a booster unit for my Gaugemaster Prodigy advance (to give me an 8 amp supply) - not only was it £35 cheaper than nearly everyone else, but it arrived at my door 23 hours later - on a Sunday order.... Very impressive!

Dry, super-heated steam requires very reliable lubrication, or damage will quickly occur, whereas non-superheated, wet steam is a little more forgiving. I always found sight feed lubricators a PITA as well, especially if they clouded up. A mechanical lubricator would tell its story - it's level should drop gently during the day, but if it should go milky, or not go down - you knew there was trouble!

Blimey - shows we all have impeccable taste and appreciate a useful tool...... Somewhere down south I still have an old Bonza Truck, and I used to have this three wheeled trike which I regularly used for doing rubbish runs to the local tip........ Chinese rubbish, but great fun. 30mph was quite fast enough!

I've always had a passion for Duke-Dogs, myself.....

The quality of the work - both baseboards and stock - is a delight to see...... I for one am very much looking forward to this developing! Great stuff!

Ah.... For many years I used to have a (yellow) industrial Fergy 35 with back hoe and front loader that we relaid the Lavender Line with! I loved it, and extremely useful!

.....ooooh noooo.... I like a bit of Character...... You'll be saying you don't even like a Tractor next.....

To make myself feel better I also aquired a Heljan Class 31 which will at some stage get a decoder and weathering like the 37.....,

Progress has been slow of late - I've done more to the roof of the larger building (the North Lights), but I've also tackled a job I've known I've had to do at some time, and have been putting it off. Ever since I started the first building, the stonework (of fire cement) has rather dictated what the stone in the layout should really be - and of course the low retaining walls either side of Tram Road pre-date that, and are very different - being much darker and of a different denser style. And of course they don't mix. I thought I'd have to cut them out and remake them completely, but I thought I'd try something else first, which was to mix up a slurry of fire cement and water, and build up a layer of cement over the existing Hydrocal walls. I put three thin layers on, and once dry, scribed each block back in for clarity. blocks were then lightly stained in the same way was the buildings, and then given a black wash. There's still a bit to do, but it looks much better, and part of the same environment now.

I never met Ralph Bowden, as he left Cwmtillery in '71 - but I do remember he was affectionately remembered within the Church- not always a given! Then Chris Gwilliam was Vicar for three years, followed by my father who did ten years (picking up Six Bells along the way) before moving to Cwmcarn for a few years before he retired.

Good Lord....... Somewhat..... Especially as my Dad was also given the Parish of Six Bells later on! I see this is a photo from the late sixties, as the the slightly taller lad of the rear pair wearing cassock and cotter (Andrew Downey) became our Church Warden at St. Paul's When we were there, we laid a 10 1/4" railway in the Vicarage garden (rail courtesy of the pit) but I think the next incumbent probably removed it, sadly! So this is your neck of the woods as well then! Wonderful! There were some lovely people there......

I lived in the Cwmtillery, where my father was Vicar in the mid '70's as mining was declining in the Valleys. However, I remember it well, as do others - and this forum may be of interest. http://tilleryonline.myfreeforum.org/ftopic3601-0-asc-45.php

Likewise, in the same way that Martyn has suggested, I just fudged my transition from 32 to 31.5 within the point length with no problem, and they certainly look better.....