Giles

I've now finished all three fiddle yards - but I've still got piles to do! Still, I often think/know my modelling is very remeniscent of this.....

You ..... rotter - you....... ours are severely detail by red tape compliance issues! Enjoy!

Just to clear something up - I've been using mini-jacks for charging for six years now - and I use them because they're nice and safe. The plug is fitted to the charging lead, and the socket to the loco or vehicle. Any momentary short you might get is on the charger side, not the LIPO side, as the LIPO is only fully connected into the circuit when the jack plug is fully pushed home (after the opportunity for the short). The other benefit is that the socket automatically disconnects the RX from the circuit whilst charging, which I like. I would never put a pair of exposed live studs on the underside of a loco, as they could very easily be shorted out by any stray piece of conductive material - even my wedding ring when picking the loco up! I do agree about the hazards of shorts, and the need to sensibly keep the batteries safe. Best Giles

Lovely...... Di and I have been saying for a couple of years that Paul should make Brookford into a book (or several). Well done!

I'm hoping Di isn't feeling too down after a fourteen hour day when she gets back from work at eleven thirty tonight

ALICE at her naming ceremony, and in her first year of service. https://youtu.be/utfOyPOLL74 http://youtu.be/utfOyPOLL74"]https://youtu.be/utfOyPOLL74

Also built at RADA'S at the same time (but over a matter of a few months) was my brothers Hymek. He did all the mechanics, and I helped things along with some of the bodywork It's powered by a two cylindrical hydraulic power-pack (not to be confused with hydrostatic), driving a hydraulic motor on one bogie. The pack delivers more than enough power for the loco weight to put down to the rails - which is the limiting factor with these things - but for all that, it still sounds like a lawn mower!

The very early days (2000) before decent cameras! The loco was built in RADA's workshops where I worked at the time, much to the surprise of the students, and the tolerance of the staff who worked for me.

..... such an improvement from the original

Sorry, Simon, your absolutely right - I was going from memory- very careless! The plate lines up with the rear of the cylinders according to the drawings. Can't wait to see the result!

Looks very nice (and practical) To me........ and a damn sight closer to the real thing than the Mercian job! There is a full depth stretcher in line with the front of the cylinders, which is quite visible and distinctive from certain angles

Looks excellent, Simon. Are you going to bring some wiring down through the white plate or does it stay over the Top? (Assuming you're connecting the engines, that is....) I was thinking about mine last night, and was wishing I'd used those miniature magnetic connectors you can get from Micron.

Thank you so much - very Helpful! I've always loved Fen End Pit...

Remarkable! Is this printed in PLA or ABS?

Sorry I missed you at the show. Those look excellent to say the least... Can't wait to see your frames!

Forgive me asking, but are the half-etch lines all absolutely necessary? If you assembled your new frames with conventional frame spacers - be they temporary or permanent- and then solder or silver solder the beams on, that would be practical. With beams, I myself would silver solder angle to the beams first to provide location etc.... Just a thought- forgive me - I'm sure you've thought all this through anyway!

Available in Europe, and occasionally seen on eBay is the donor vehicle for this. Originally with a box trailer marked 'Hales Cakes', the TK makes for a very good model.

The white layer will certainly slow it up, and likely need a second pass in consequence. It's very useful material, but if you're going to buy some more, get the black Stuff!

I use Trotec, rather than Rowmark, simply because Rowmark didn't reply to any of my emails. It sounds much the same, but the stuff I choose to use is all one colour, not the dual colour variety. The 0.8mm thick I go through in one pass at 100% (black) at 6mm/sec.

Your 1:5.51 brings it in at approximately 1:2 3/16 (equivalent) which is a little smaller than the smallest shown on this page for comparison. The problem will of course be the width and fitting an engine in (I've done it!) Insofar as it will reduce your options. Other hypothetical alternatives would be the Kabota type two or three cylinder diesel, which would do a good job, but at cost of autenticity. http://gilesfavell.com/Scale.htm

Not so..... that's the gauge..... there are at least three very commonly used scales used for 10.25 locos, hence the question - particularly if you're trying to shoehorn a 6 cylinder diesel in! My old archived site from which the 10.25 Society originally sprang is here http://gilesfavell.com/giles%20railway%20site.htm

And a couple of knobs ......

And now the crane is, I think, truly working reliably with its 4 stick transmitter....... and can join the fleet

Thanks Gents! Here's the crane now it runs reliably....

Fascinating - I've never seen Milliput go like that before! Or not..... still, as you say, not a disaster. Regards the paintwork, there are no short cuts to actually using a pad of 2000 grit wet-and-dry and dry to achieving the effect. I know some people just Polish instead, but that doesn't do the same thing. I agree entirely about the Unimat 3 - I have one, and it's such a useful little machine (I remotored mine with sheep-sheering motors adapted with variable speed, which have been brilliant over the years. They run cool, are more powerful, and by adding a pot, give me variable speed)