Giles

Ah,using Cut2dlaser with the Emblazer, I don't get those problems!

Apart from some final painting, the RC Bagnall's chassis is now finished. I'm pleased to say it appears to work well, with the milled valve gear (the second set) coming out nicely - giving me a better appearance than an etched equivalent, being thicker (0.028") but finer in section - and certainly massively better than I could achieve by hand! The motor/gearbox/worm combination also seems very satisfactory, giving me exactly the sort of speeds I was after, Videos of the chassis under its own power this one is at the full 3.7v and this one is at 1.5v

Programs like Autocad and Draftsight let you choose which version of DXF or DWG to save the drawing in.

Simon, have you considered Draftsight? It's a free version of Autocad Light, and free.... it's very good, and will do anything you will want. Obviously it will export at DWG or DXF.

I'm very impressed, but I suspect I might have lost the will to live by now, if it were me....i can only cope with the simpler things in life..... Well done!

Excellent..... It is astonishing what a 4w diode laser can achieve!

Finally got the slide bars, cross heads and con rods on - for the final time - and it rolls very sweetly. The next job will be fitting all the valve gear which I'll take all of five minutes. Not. I ALSO picked up an Andrew Barclay on EBay last week. Much of it had been quite nicely and carefully built up, but it had gone wrong at the final hurdle, and the boiler with all its fittings had rotated between five and ten degrees. The smoke box door had rotated even more than that! Added to which, the paint job wasn't really my thing, so it all got stripped whilst I was waiting for araldite to dry, and various bit removed and rectified, the boiler positioned correctly and levelled, as is now ready for primer. It will stay like this for some time, as i shall have to build a new chassis for it (0-14). Restored Andrew Barclay by giles favell, on Flickr

Please, another reminder- if anyone wants to order wipers or guard irons - PLEASE include your address when ordering, as PayPal doesn't give them to me! Likewise, if you want both, they are £9 inc postage All the best, and thanks!

Love the idea of cutting paper wet ....... I've done nettles, and had to play carefully to get the settings - but it's very useful yo find another variable!

New coupling rods did the trick with the RCL Bagnall, which is now put back together with a new decoder and pick-up, and appears to be working fine... The RC Wrightlines Bagnall will now get its slide bars, cylinder end covers and cross head. The order of assembly of these is going to be awkward, but we'll manage. A tale of two Bagnalls by giles favell, on Flickr

Having a spare hour yesterday, i thought I'd make some new coupling rods for the Roy Link Bagnall, to get that back into running order, as I think it was the originals having been messed about so much that was causing the poor running (combined with pick-ups). It is so nice and easy to draw up very accurate rods with precise hole spacing, laser them, and then just mill them out. Lo and behold the wheels spin nicely. I still have to try in under power though. New coupling rods for RCL Bagnall by giles favell, on Flickr

See if this works.... http://flic.kr/p/WQu5us

I've fitted balance weights using Milliput as usual, and painted the chassis and wheels. I've also used Casey's Gun Blue for the first time and it's brilliant! I also blackened the gear to make it less visible. Before painting, i also melted some lead into the cylinders and behind the buffer beam to help with the balance. Assembly of Bagnall chassis by giles favell, on Flickr

I'm certainly at the stage where I wonder why I bothered with this new chassis..... It wasn't meant to take this long! Like Kafka's 'Castle', the closer you get, the further away it seems... Never mind,it IS getting there- I've finished milling all the valve gear and done all the pre-assembly, and it all articulates nicely. I still have the valve spindles to make, and then paint and assemble in a right mixture. The various bits of valve gear were right on the edge (or indeed right over the edge) of what I could see to do. The milling is no problem, but drilling the ends was a nightmare to see. I used some really good quality 0.46dia drills to pilot, and then opened them out to 0.65dia,and reduced pins for assembly. The Proxxon drill is superb, and i shall use no other, as the saying goes! Milled valve gear 0-14 Bagnall by giles favell, on Flickr Cylinders SSoldered on by giles favell, on Flickr

More good new folks...... I was thinking in bed this morning, as you do......... thinking that the G7 lens may not have quite the same optical/beam characteristics as the original lens, and that it may be possible to get even more from it. Hoping, but not actually expecting - I tested my theory, and lowered the laser from the 1.5mm (supplied gauge) down to 0.8mm ('cos that's what I had to hand...) and cut the same item in 2mm MDF as I did the other day. The last time, with the G7 lens, the first pass cut 90% through, so I could just see it from the reverse side, but needed a second pass to cut it free. today, dropping the laser down, My E1 cut straight through 2mm MDF in a single pass, cleanly, with no nasty charring, and no increase in kerf. I'm a happy chap. Not only this - but if the lens is so much more efficient, then surely there must be less heat build-up within the laser, which must also be good for it!

Indeed - it should be a more trouble-free unit when it finally gets to us. I'm one of the very lucky ones - having an Emblazer 1 means that I'm not actually in any rush- but I do sympathise very greatly with those for whom the E2 is their only laser! However, they have still produced and delivered two types of laser in less time than Glowforge have done one....

The screwdriver notches in the bezel face DOWN. I'll have a look at the old lens when I get the chance... In principle, it is perfectly possible to use the G7 lens without the focus ring - it will screw straight in - it will simply be more tricky and delicate to handle. Edit. Yes, it is exactly the same focus ring - stupid me - of course it is - Domenic supplied it!

I've just fitted my G7 lens, and I must say that I'm extremely pleased! It zaps through 0.8mm ply in one pass, and nearly does 2mm MDF in one, but not quite - requiring a second pass to get through (easily). Measuring the cut result against the AutoCAD drawing, the Kerf would appear to be 0.06 x 0.12mm. sadly I can't remember what it was with the other lens! Of course it means that all my files will have to be re-done......

Thank you - very kind! I'm looking forward to seeing it. Sadly our local WHS has downsized and stopped selling anything remotely interesting, so it will be a while!

It all looks great! You may need to add a bush to your worm shaft to stop it from winding itself forwards or backwards, and disengaging, though. (Unless you have already, and I'm not quite understanding what I'm seeing- which is very possible!! )

Good luck with your steam test - a stressful time! But you'll have a great time behind her!

The frosting was laser etched, as well as the letters. I just wasn't thorough in my prep, so didn't get full coverage.

Jus to prove glass can be done...... A microscope slide. The back is etched - done from the front. Lasering glass by giles favell, on Flickr

I really love that engraving - WHEN I get mine, i look forward to giving it a go, and at that time i'll come back to you and ask what all those fancy words such as raster mean. I know what a 'factor' is.... Something you might try if you fancy, which I have successfully done is engraving on (the back of) glass. Excellent for pub windows....

The motion brackets are fitted, together with bearing blocks for the reverses cross shaft. It's turned into quite a long job.... Bagnall motion brackets silver soldered on by giles favell, on Flickr I've also fitted sleeves for the valve spindles to the cylinders, together with guides. Cylinder with valve guide and sleeve by giles favell, on Flickr Only a few more bits to make for the chassus6, then paint and assemble 0-14 Bagnall chassis, cylinders and valve gear by giles favell, on Flickr