Giles

Esc stands for electronic speed controller. The Deltang receivers that I use have ESCs built in to them. Esc can either be single direction for aircraft, or reversible for aircraft or boats.

Work goes on a-pace, and the clam is complete and works.

A slightly different project. One that will then need a standard gauge self-propelled crane to attach to then end of it.... 2019-09-05_08-30-51 by giles favell, on Flickr 2019-09-05_08-30-36 by giles favell, on Flickr

As a small aside, it was a nuisance having throttle and tip on the same stick (as can be seen on the video) as it was all too easy to nudge the vehicle forward when tipping. The cure for this was very simple. Cutting a cross-guard from plastic and gluing it in! Very much easier, and works every time! TX Cross-guard by giles favell, on Flickr

Done and dusted now - and I'm fonder of this than I was with the real ones! 2019-09-03_01-33-52 by giles favell, on Flickr 2019-09-03_01-33-28 by giles favell, on Flickr

I sometimes find 7mm fiddely enough - I end up rather gob-smacked at what you achieve in this scale! Live cameras........... I just hope batteries become more compact before long (not that I'm grumbling - we are extremely fortunate in what we have available to us)

Basically done, barring weathering. It works very well with a 650mAh battery under the tipping load bed.

With a thorough brushing, I don't really get any........ but any small bits a tissue would get. Single handed filming/operation isn't easy!

Hi Richard, Thanks! The traction engine was as simple as it gets....... Halfords black rattlecan, and a 2000 grit rub-down of what I could get to (which wasn't very much!) so I then progressively wiped over the whole lot with Duraglit, and scrubbed into all the spokes, nooks and crannies with a soft tooth-brush which polished it to what you see..... Ony a litttle rust and dirt was added after that.... Really very simple, but I recommend the tooth-brush! Copper pipe is done with Humbrol metalcote Gunmetal with a tad of copper in it, to give the dirty, heated copper colour, rather than the very bright copper you so ofen see.

Hi Mike, For most of the vehicles I use the cheap E-Flite/ParkZone type DSM2 transmitters that pop up on Ebay from time to time. However, for things like the steam crane, or the Mechanical Horse where I needed to reverse the servo direction , I use a Jumper TS8, which is competetively priced, and programmable. I have been very happy with both types in their relevant usage!

A possible - though onerous solution for stock could be for the Host to provide 'site boxes' - lockable steel chests for storing power tools etc., that can be hired from many hire companies. It's another layer of organisation, hardware and expense, but it may be of help in the future....

I'm sure if you look closely, you'll see the driver's arm spinning the wheel frantically......! TE1 by giles favell, on Flickr 1:43 radio control traction engine By Giles by giles favell, on Flickr

Nah.... I only do live steam when it can pull thirty or more people....! But thanks! I sort of enjoyed the challenge of building it!

Me being an awkward cuss, I double them up using superglue to get laminated glass..... they are still very thin, but much more resilient and lessnprone to breaking.

Duncan Models do a very nice Aveling Porter, both traction engine and roller..... but yes, There's not a lot around. Their traction engine is available with cleated wheels, or rubber tyre type, as my model below. TE1 by giles favell, on Flickr

Progress - the tipper body is complete and primed Rc TK Tipper 1:43 by giles favell, on Flickr

I know the occasional lorry isn't to everyone's taste - but never mind! I have silver soldered the tipper body frame together, with the opening tail-gate. (MDF drop-sides and headboard timbers) The tail-gate should of course lock when down so that the load doesnt get spilt. In reality this is of course a manual operation, but for RC, this is going to have to be an automatic mechanical system. So...... the tailgate is held closed by a pair of pivoting latches, which are operated by a rod forward on the tipper frame. This terminates in a bell-crank, which, when lowered hits a block or plate, and forces the catches to rise and trap the tail-gate. It actually works as well..... 2019-08-17_07-04-12 by giles favell 2019-08-17_06-59-39 by giles favell, on Flickr Rc tipper by giles favell, on Flickr

I'm ashamed to say that I've only just found this thread - and what a glorious layout! The buildings are just sumptuous, and the whole thing is full of interest, making you want to peer into every nook and cranny. This is one that I shall drive miles to see! Wonderful!

I went to Specsavers once, and never again. The lenses were very poor in comparison to the Zeiss lenses I was used to. I spent a year bumping into things....

I know the occasional lorry isn't to everyone's taste - but never mind! I have silver soldered the tipper body frame together, with the opening tail-gate. (MDF drop-sides and headboard timbers) The tail-gate should of course lock when down so that the load doesnt get spilt. In reality this is of course a manual operation, but for RC, this is going to have to be an automatic mechanical system. So...... the tailgate is held closed by a pair of pivoting latches, which are operated by a rod forward on the tipper frame. This terminates in a bell-crank, which, when lowered hits a block or plate, and forces the catches to rise and trap the tail-gate. It actually works as well..... 2019-08-17_06-59-39 by giles favell, on Flickr 2019-08-17_07-04-12 by giles favell, on Flickr Rc tipper by giles favell, on Flickr

Personally I think a lot can be done with the design of the layou itself. I built Denton Brook (and The End of The Line) to be at a height of just under 1100mm nominally, but both were designed to be three dimensional, and viewed from low angles as well as normal heights and give an interesting and plausible picture from a wheelchair, even though they wouldn't be able to see the surfaces at the highest levels. It worked, and on a number of occassions I have had very happy convesrations with people in wheechairs who are enjoying the scenics and the action. I operate from tall stools from self-preservation from front/side, which also gives good view and communication.

And next up is a tipper..... I think I'm making this just to learn about the problems - I don't need a tipper lorry really.. The donor is a TK artic, chopped. I can use the cab and the front of the chassis, and needed to scratch build a new longer chassis to graft on. The tipper mechanism is powered by a little 6mm diameter gear motor, driving a M2 bearing mounted lead screw. This all occupies the space normally assigned to the drive motor, so a smaller, 8mm diameter gear motor has been substituted, and crammed in, and this drives the rear axle via a cardan shaft. It's been tested to make sure it works so far...... 1:43 Tipper by giles favell, on Flickr

I've had to squeeze a motor in the space that's left after fitting the tipper mechanism. There's no room for my usual N20, so I fitted the lovely little 8mm diameter gear motor that I also fitted to the Mechanical Horse. I was worried that it wouldn't be strong enough - but it is! It also necessitated the use of a cardan shaft, so I made UJs form 3mm tube and 0.7mm NS wire, as per OtherPlanet's method. There's no RC yet - this is simply a test to make sure the transmission works..... Th

I know this has been done many times, but I thought I'd have a look at it....... The donor vehicle (well, the front end...) is the Bedford TK, and the brass chassis will be grafted on to it. I still have to sort space for the traction motor. I used Mod 0.4 bevel gears in order to make space for the tipping mechanism, which needs to be as low as possible in order to get some mechanical advantage on the pivot. The tipper motor is a 6mm diameter 60rpm gearmotor from ebay, driving an M2 shaft.

On the back of this, I have been experimenting with viable differential gearboxes, and built two different types. One with four bevel gears, which is 13mm x 8.5mm diameter, and the other a spur gear type which is 7.5mm wide x 18.3mm diameter, Both have their uses, but on the whole, the bevel gearbox is much easier to make, and is perhaps more versatile. Differentials 1 and 2 by giles favell, on Flickr Differential 2 by giles favell, on Flickr