Giles

Here's info on building the front axles. When drawing up an axle kit, the stub axles are included as acrylic components - but since I can CNC them, I make brass ones for my own models.

I know we all tend to get shown different things on the internet - so this is what I am seeing. Most of the models are approx £31 including postage, which I think is a very reasonable price. Of course the advantage of a pick up is the clear load bed. Screenshot_20191204-112313 by giles favell, on Flickr

There are some extremely small SPST switches available, and failing that one can always use a reed switch - either latching or non-latching- although I prefer a conventional switch where possible. I build my batteries into the model, and although they will have to come out for replacement some time, charging in situ is a must for me!

I will get some proper railway stuff done sometime.....

The usual EBay! https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=1%3A43+sava+bmc&_sacat=0 A worldwide search is recommended to dig these out. The conversion to Right hand drive is very easy - and indeed this whole mod is relatively straightforward.

I've wrecked my back, and so I can't do much and I'm on some quite effective painkillers that put me to sleep nicely, so merely an update on the convertion of a nice little model (whilst im sitting down....) Converted very easily to right hand drive, the rear axle is sorted with its bevel gear, and the front axle is also complete and fitted. Servo next when I can. 2019-12-03_06-12-45 by giles favell, on Flickr

Let me know the bearing flange to bearing flange dimension you would like to try....

All my axles are scratchbuilt. First by hand, and then I worked out how to CNC them on my Stepcraft - but in the last 12 months I've developed a way of laser-cutting all the components (building them up with Plastic Weld) with the addition of wire for King Pins and track rods...... They come out quite compact, with decent geometry. It took quite a lot of experimentation to crack it reliably. The 4mm ones take 1.5mm I.D. flanged bearings (which require a 4mm dia. recess in the back of the wheel and the axles are 2.4mm deep at the clevis. The Bedfords have an 18mm dimension between king-pin centres, but I can make them any size (within reason!). The 7mm versions take 2mm I.D. flanged bearings and are 3.2mm deep at the clevis. I'm considering making them available (not sure whether built-up or kit including bearings) but they're not going to be as cheap as some, simply because of the very low quantities involved and the time it takes (even going to the post box of post office with one package takes some significant time and disruption) 2019-10-16_08-49-08 by 4mm TK axle by Giles Favell, on Flickr 1:76 TK front axle by 4mm 18mm axle by Giles Favell, on Flickr

The Austin 7 completed. I have a small stock of my favourite K20s, but I shall have to ration myself, and use other gearmotors where appropriate. Such is the way of things! However, it also means that doubtless other hood things will come down the supply chain!

Hi David, Having just spent an hour searching, it would appear that no one on EBay is selling the appropriate type any more! A lesson to us all to stock up whilst we can..... There are still the 10mm diameter 120rpm gearmotors with the plastic 'star' output shaft. I have successfully fitted the larger nylon bevel gears to these (either the Morris J or the Land Rover has this arrangement - I can't remember which). There is also a range of 6mm dia gearmotors which would do for 4mm models. These would not be anything like as powerful as the 8mm, but should be adequate. I have not yet tried them for traction, but I have just ordered a few 100rpm (@ 6v) to see how they go. It is certainly possible to fit the small Mod 0.3 bevel gears to these using Devcon epoxy, as I've done it. Shame about those K20's - they are superb - if I ever see any pop up, I shall be buying them! Edit. Morris J with components. 10mm 120rpm gear motor fitted with nylon bevel gear. 2019-03-12_05-22-14 by giles favell, on Flickr

I was there on Saturday and happily watched the telehandler doing its stuff, looking extremely good! I think your observations are very good - operators generally do not think in terms of being in the cab and needing to swing the wheel round, or select reverse and reverse by mirrors etc.... and it does make a difference visually. We use tall chairs at the front/side to operate from, which does make life a little more bearable! Congratulations on a good show!

My parents owned an Austin Ruby in the first half of the '60s - though it was not long for the world!

Oh no....... I shall complete the twin to this one and leave it (I need two as the operational duration will be insufficient. 1 in use, 1 on charge....). I did the TK as a direct comparison to the 7mm version. just to see if the techniques were transfereable to the smaller scale (drive and front axle) which they appear to be. This is what the exercise is about ( the 4mm tipper is still awaiting its correct battery here, hence having a strange battery in the cargo space!)

I'm toying with the idea of building myself a home layout of The End of The Line (Far Away) fir the fun of it!

I've made a little 4mm TK, just to see if I can get the same characteristics, and it's been a success. I've used the little K20 motor, and got a 180mAh battery under the load bed. This one does NOT tip, as it's quite a small vehicle, and there isn't really room.....

Extremely nice work! Looking forward to the trailer.

I'm so sorry I've missed the opportunity to get one of these chassis! An idiot I am for not checking up! Non the less I'm delighted to see these come to fruition, congratulations !!!

I'm afraid I don't know of a source of transfers.... no..... It's a shame, it would certainly make repainting easier! The red and cream is the Meccano livery, and it makes a nice change! I have another, so I'll make the pair to it.

An informal look at the LEDs I use. The teeny ones are T0402 type.

I thought I might make a few informal videos to help things along, as a visual aid, for anyone that's interested. I hopefully have a book coming out in the not too distant future on such things as converting vehicles, and the like - but these videos may also be of interest if not taken too seriously.

Very nice to see you in here Michael - I thought I knew you from the larger world! I did a bit in 10 1/4°....

For more details on the tipper and it's 4mm counter-part, see this long and tedious video.

Thank you very much Gents! The back scene is printed on front-projection screen cloth (matt), and has pockets top and bottom. The top is threaded on to a ten foot length of 40 x 20mm ERA steel (rectangular hollow section), which is rigid enough to stay straight and not sag over that length. It is supported at each end by two heavy photographic light stands, and has a further smaller tube in the bottom pocket to keep it stretched. The bottom is set just below sight-lines or the lower eye-line, so the viewer can never quite see the bottom of the cloth. The whole cloth is around 300mm or so behind the back of the layout, and not pushed right up to it. I have not shown the Bedford TK Tipper on this thread I see..... this uses the cab from the Altaya artic model, and the front of the chassis, but is spliced to a scratch-built chassis behind the fuel tank. The tipper body works, and has an automatic latching tail-gate. 2019-09-03_01-33-52 by giles favell, on Flickr