Giles

Finished, bar a slightly larger battery, driver, and more practice!

On the plus side, all the industries who rely on audiences and visitors including venues are working extremely hard themselves to devise ways to resume business in a safe and satisfactory way. It might not be exactly the same way, but a lot of thought and effort is going into all this. After all, they too are businesses that need to survive.

The 6mm motor is the small one on the centre line.

They're 6mm dia. 100rpm jobs from Ebay. I've got them fitted to The Landy, the Atkinson attic and the TK dropside

This is a resin model from Russia - just got it working

And now......... a Forklift in1:43. I know that these have been done in 1:76 and 1:87, but I want one in 1:43. Moreover, I want one to experiment with. This one is a resin model from Russia, and quite nice, but of course it needed a replacement mast etc..... It still needs finishing off, but the has but is done.

This was our Shooting Brake that we had through the early '60s. A Roll's 20 (1927). That were quite cheap in those days.... It's the first car of ours that I really remember 2020-02-28_06-28-57 by giles favell, on Flickr EDIT. ....and I think they've gone aesthetically downhill from then....

Look at the video- Binding down the page http://www.deltang.co.uk/video.htm Also, there are instructions on the back of your transmitter. Switch contacts. Battery wire to the middle (of the three) contacts, transmitter wire to one outside contact.

You need to 'bind' the receiver to the transmitter first - have you done that? If they are already bound, then yes - with the transmitter on, hold the two sticks to the centre (cross-head, was it were) turn the transmitter on, whereupon it should rapidly flash, and release the sticks, at which point the receiver should revert to a slow, single flash which is the start of the programming mode. Led colour is fine. Red and black wires - yes, though it's good to have a switch in after the fuse and before the receiver on the red wire

Steep Hill in Lincoln...... forty years ago there was a wonderful pub nearly at the top, on the west side on the road serving Sam Smith's, run by a family who also owned The Vaults at the bottom of the hill. I walked up there many times.

I too resigned for the same reasons...., I wholeheartedly agree with the all above....

Leads or connectors?

My tuppence-ha'penny worth...... My B4, lightly rubbed, polished and weathered etc., and then it's stable mate, slightly less well cared for.

These are the gears I use for a lorry or some-such. I only use brass gears when I'm converting a smaller vehicle and I'm pushed for space. https://www.technobotsonline.com/mini-plastic-bevel-gear.html For a normal vehicle, you only need one reversible ESC to drive the motor. You would only need more than one if you were converting a more complex vehicle such as a crane where you had hoist motors to control as well..... so you can select an Rx based on the light functions you may want. I get my Lipo batteries from EBay. The reason I use 700mAh batteries is so that they last a full exhibition without charging. If you never need to to this, you can drop down to the 280 - 300 mAh level, and choose a convenient size to suit. The discharge rate that we use us extremely small, so doesn't really concern us in practice. This one looks fine Go for their very small on off switches. Spst

Hi Rod, after ensuring a good fit, I put a thin smear of 5 min epoxy inside the bearing (not on the stub axle) and then push the stub axle in. This is so any excess of glue gets harmlessly pushed through, and not forced back into the end of the axle where it will cause problems...... hope this makes sense! Best Giles

Hi Paul, I have a number of spare E-Flite type transmitters (Mode 2 , although they are switchable to Mode 1) of the type I have used for all my models (I am now buying more expensive programmable types). I have a couple new for £22 plus postage if you're interested. Personally I should stick with the Deltang receivers, as they are very reliable, perform well, and well understood. You can also opt to buy them pre-wired for an extra £2 which is a good idea. A single Lipo battery ( preferably somewhere around 5-700mAh will be needed - but you need to work out where it's going first. A 1.7g battery (also obtainable from Micron) will be sufficient for steering, and an on/off switch, charging socket, and preferably an in-line re-settable fuse (Micron again). I can supply front axle kits at almost any size if you didn't want to scratch-build one. It is fun! And addictive... Giles

"Why should the young have to buy second hand?" Why should they be able to afford new expensive luxury items when they want them? I can't...... That's how life is....... many of my Christmas presents were second hand when I was young because for a few years my parents had very little money. I never had anything other than a second-hand bicycle, I've never had a new car, and unless I win the lottery I never will. As a youngster I was acutely aware that there wasn't enough money to go round, so of course I (we) couldn't always have this and that - but we certainly valued what we did have, and we saved up to buy from our local model shop, choosing very carefully. I'm immensely grateful for what I have been able to spend on my hobby, but I spend more of it on components and materials to make things than on anything else, and I count myself extremely lucky. Money is again very tight, as it will be for very many people, and sadly manufacturers will be getting less custom, rather than more - which doesn't help them overmuch, I realised a very long time ago that just because I wanted something didn't mean that I should have it, or still less was entitled to it - second best - or second hand is perfectly acceptable. Andy - feel free to delete....

First world problems.........

I wouldn't be surprised if there was more choice than there ever had been - even for younger people, and at cheaper prices.such things are never going to be £2.50....... I had to save up for more than six months for a small loco fifty years ago.

Absolutely superb!!!

Extremely nice video.......! Looking forward to completion!

A slight deviation....... my layout live in my house - I'm not sure how I would feel about returning a layout breathed and sneezed on (I exaggerate!) by several thousand people after an exhibition into my front room if Covid was still prevalent . It doesn't seem awfully sensible. (And no, I don't have options of quarantining it anywhere.) But likewise, working an exhibition of masked-up exhibitors and punters with social distancing doesn't sound fun in the first place.

You might find a company ready to CNC it out for you, rather than lasering it........

There is a further element to consider. I have been looking at air-bourne transmission, in regard to ventilation systems within my own discipline. I am a Theatre Consultant and NOT an M&E Consultant, butby the nature of my job, i have to learn something of the other disciplines. There in contradictory advice. From our own Government, the basic advice is "open windows, and keep working - service the HVAC as normal", however, a study in Europe confirms that the virus has already been transmitted to others with no direct contact, via the air-stream of a restaurant's ventilation system. A problem occurs when air is fed at one side of the room, and is extracted at the other side, so the air is drawn through the space. Ideal normally - but not if an infected person or persons is at the up-stream end of the flow. This is also a problem for many theatre's, where we supply around 7 litres of air per person per second - vast quantities- and this is frequently fed from over-head diffusers, and also extracted at high level - thus creating all sorts of streams in various directions. I suspect that many large exhibition spaces may have similar systems. The few Professional Risk Assessments I've seen intended to cope with the virus and working with it do not understand or address air-handling or it's interelation with the design of the building, and have limited themselves to "opening windows" which in a modern building is not necessarily adequate. Air-handling should be run at 100% Primary air, with no recycling, and professional opinion should be sought as to whether the filters can be upgraded. Do make sure Risk Assessments are comprehensive, and don't be afraid to question them!

A bit of narrow gauge