SRman

Looks like I have dodged a bullet here! I recently upgraded a Hobbytrade Danish ME diesel to sound, and was offered a LokSound 5, but I expressed a preference for a LokSound 4, as I had downloaded the sound project from the ESU website (I found out later that a project for v. 5 was also available). It works just the way I want it to with the v. 4.

True, but many of us go with the 'View New Content' link which means the headline is what catches our attention, rather than the smaller print underneath saying who replied to whom in what category.

I can't help feeling the title is a little misleading: could you edit it slightly to read "South Wales new cab side numbers 4mm scale"? I looked here thinking it referred to Australian New South Wales cab side numbers, many of which which were also on plates.

There was a Cotswold Rail 08 with high level pipes from Hornby too. Like Griff, I don't believe Hornby has released any in BR blue. With that in mind, I scored a relatively cheap second grey 'Dick Hardy' model (I already had one I am keeping in the grey) with a view to painting it BR blue. I am not aware of any of the Bachmann models having the high level pipes.

Bachmann's 36-568 6-pin decoder is really a Zimo one anyway, and works well in the DJM J94.

What other operator would count a fleet of 120 buses as "non-standard"? The Cravens bodies never reached the first overhaul cycle, so never got swapped onto other RT chassis (LT's overhaul system involved separating bodies from chassis and overhauling each separately, which meant that bodies got swapped around, with the chassis retaining the fleet number). It was reputed that the Cravens bodies were fully compatible with the standard chassis, but they didn't stay n service long enough for anyone to find out for sure. I think that Les above has hit the nail on the head with his suggestion of many possible alternative liveries for the models, though (notwithstanding the roof box issue). I have attached a photo of model RTs from different kits over the years. RT front ends seem notoriously difficult to get right: EFE haven't quite got it on their earlier models of "standard" RTs (standard in quotes because there are actually many minor variations), and the kits all needed work to get their front ends looking reasonable (I won't claim correctness). Left is the Tower Models plastic one, centre is an early Varney Transport Replicas white metal kit which also needed a lot of work on the roof to eliminate the "provincial" look, and right is a Little Bus Company resin Cravens RT, which needed some fettling and filling at the front to capture the upper deck 'frown'. I will definitely be ordering at least one of the new EFE models, but await with interest viewing an actual model when it comes, before ordering more.

I have now added a few more of these 'little' details: weeds and undergrowth items from Busch this time, plus some Langley metal bollards and a warning sign for the level crossing. Lots more to do but it does make the scenes look a little more complete (if there is such a thing as completeness where model railways are concerned!). P_20190410_104426_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr Is that possibly Lovejoy's borrowed Morris Minor there? P_20190410_104457_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr P_20190410_104546_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr P_20190410_104648_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

Having just taken the body off the driving trailer myself to modify the seat at the trailing end to allow people to walk through the gangway connection, the body just unclips easily from the chassis moulding. I inserted a small, flat-bladed screwdriver between the solebar and the body lower edge at the trailing end of the coach and pushed very gently to release the clip, then slid the screwdriver along to the other end, then repeated for the other side. If you look inside the coach through the large windows, you can actually see the black plastic clips extending up to slots in the glazing.

... And three more of the burdock plants made up and positioned but not yet glued down. I have tried to make these a little less 'flat' than the previous ones. They join the existing couple previously made up and now permanently fixed. I have enough material left in the kit to make two or three more of these plants. P_20190409_213511_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr P_20190409_213530_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

Small improvements that make a bigger impact visually: I have been planting some greenery along the alignment of the programming track, and above one of the tunnel entrances. P_20190408_161020_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr P_20190408_161046_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr P_20190408_161106_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr P_20190408_161157_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

Many of the Harrow kits went to Phil Radley, although he has also re-released many of the original white metal ones with one-piece resin body shells, and added to the range.

In their original forms, the Bulleid Pacifics were prone to leaking oil, which did nothing for adhesion either accelerating or braking. In rebuilt form they were better, but still had a lot of power for their weight, and, as The Johnster just said, as Pacifics, they still had the limitations that applied to that wheel arrangement in general. There is an archival film on YouTube somewhere with steam entering and leaving Waterloo, and in one clip, a rebuilt Light Pacific running light engine sails gracefully past the camera in reverse with the driving wheels locked solid! If I can find this footage again I'll edit this post to add it in.

The confusion exists for catalogue number 36-557 21-pin type: the Soundtraxx one has a green decoder PCB and comes in a white cardboard box, while the newer and better ESU one has a blue base and comes in a 'bubble pack'. Bachmann used a Zimo decoder as the basis for the latest 6-pin decoder 36-568. I'm not sure what Bachmann are using for their latest 8-pin decoders, but earlier ones were the ESU Basic, which was OK but not brilliant (in my opinion). There may be something newer and better, but I am honestly not up to date on that - I tend to use the Lenz Standard+ at a few pounds more in cost. I like both Zimo and ESU decoders, although the Zimo budget 8- and 21-pin models represent very good value themselves (MX600 and MX638, for 8- and 21-pins respectively - both types around £20 each). Another good budget decoder for 8-pin models is the Lenz Standard+ v.2. Lenz 21-pin decoders are a bit dearer because they only offer their Silver or Gold ratings, but are also worth a look. I found some time back that buying the cheap decoders can be a false economy, and use them only in models that get very little running, or as function-only decoders for lighting in (for example) DMU trailers and the like.

The price is good, and I want to replace the incorrectly printed bodyshell on my 'Intrepid', but the postage to Australia where I am is actually dearer than the body on its own! I think I'll hold off.

While I haven't experienced this, there have been past reports of the undersides of the decoder sockets touching the metal chassis and causing momentary shorts. adding a bit of electrical insulation tape will preclude that from happening. Something like that may have caused your decoder smoking.

The latest Bachmann-branded ESU and Zimo decoders Bachmann use now are good, but be a little careful of some earlier ones. The 36-557 Soundtraxx ones that preceded the ESU with the same catalogue number were a bit less consistent in behaviour (thanks, Bachmann for confusing everyone with the same catalogue number for two entirely different products!).

Use good quality decoders for this that support advanced consisting, so you get consistent (no pun intended!) behaviour no matter what DCC system you use.

If you have Mike King's book on Southern coaches, he describes certain dedicated sets that had British Standard Gangways on the outer ends for such interregional traffic. The alternative was to use adapters to connect the BSG type to Pullman gangways, as mentioned above.

Without checking, I thought they were in Derby somewhere. I wasn't aware they don't send to the UK though.

AJM showing one in stock: https://www.ajmrailways.com/model-railways/Heljan-Class-33-1-33111-BR-Blue-3459-3459.html#SID=209

Adding slightly to 34C's post above, you will probably find that on an uphill gradient, the model will pull better bunker first, because the weight is being transferred onto the driven axles. I totally agree with him regarding the lovely appearance of the model and the smoothness of the mechanism. Incidentally, this weight distribution problem is not confined to Hornby's M7; a couple of other 0=4=4T models also have similar problems. In my experience, these include Hornby's more recent SECR H class (no room at all ahead of the second axle as it is completely full of motor!), and Kernow's LSWR O2 locos as well (I haven't attempted anything with mine, yet).

The newer M7 suffers from poor balance and weight distribution, even worse if you bought a factory DCC-fitted example. In hindsight, it would have been better if Hornby had fitted the decoder socket at the rear (in the bunker area?), and added weight at the front, over and ahead of the driving axles. There are two weights in the side tanks (one in each, unless you have the aforementioned DCC-fitted model, in which case there is only one weight in one tank). I have not done this yet, but I will one day replace the tank weights with something heavier (real lead). My own models are fitted with TCS DP2X-UK direct plug-in decoders, which means I did not have to remove any tank weights. If at all possible, add weight over the decoder socket, but there is not a lot of room there. If you are really keen, remove the decoder socket altogether and wire everything directly for DC operation, or hardwire a decoder in and place it at the rear of the locomotive, then pack more lead in the area vacated by the socket.

A small improvement at the loco/goods yard entry: I have made up some gates using the Gaugemaster Fordhampton level crossing kit without the roadway parts. At this point they are unpainted, but I will be painting and weathering them in due course. I used the bracing wire differently from the instructions: I drilled the posts at either end of the gate itself and ran the wire as a diagonal brace above the top of the gate. They are being used as an occupation crossing, so open outwards rather than across the tracks. I will have to post suitable signs up in the near future too. The design and build was obviously conceived by Bloody Stupid Johnson, because the gate on the inner side of the curve is hinged on the left, meaning it has to be swung open through nearly 270 degrees! Any sensible designer would have have hinged it on the right so it only had to open and park beside the turntable. P_20190330_132804_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr P_20190330_132746_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

I like the idea of Clanbourne too - clever! In answer to your question, I didn't actually buy any trains while overseas, but was so impressed with both the Danish and German railway systems I thought I would like a few models to remember them by (nostalgia to come!).

Besides fitting down the Hastings line with its restrictions on width (R0), the Southern also worked out that having a smaller cabin by volume meant it was much easier to heat and keep warm in Winter, something learnt after guards complaints about the old SECR 'dance hall' vans which had very large cabins.