SRman

From the rather limited amount of research I have done (mostly for renumbering a Lima 31/0 with the grille that I was detailing at the time), I think only the pilot batch lacked that grille, but all received them sometime during the late 1960s or very early 1970s. I am guessing here, but I think you would be right in saying that. 5518 did receive the grilles as they are present in later photos of that locomotive.

There is a pic somewhere of it at Tattenham Corner on a royal special in the condition you describe in 1968 with SR 20001 in pristine BR blue at the other end. I can't find that picture right now, but I seem to recall that it still lacked the engine room door grille at that time, but it (and the other remaining toffee apples) gained them at some time soon after that. Thanks for the answer. I had guessed the new control system might have also included new controllers for the throttle and brakes, but you have confirmed it.

Here's a question of no particular importance: when D5518 was rebuilt to blue star standard, did it retain the 'toffee apple' controller?

Just a thought: if we are getting working pantographs, can we have working third rail pick up shoes as well? Ok, OK, I know ... I'll get me hat and coat and trousers ...

Besides the obvious 'dogs' you mentioned, a real source of unreliability in most of the early designs was the steam heating boilers. Class 20s didn't have one, and combined with their basic technology and rugged build, they became one of the most reliable classes. Of course, 'dogs' like what became classes 15 and 16 didn't have steam heating either, so had no excuses - their unreliability was more down to the choice of engine, although the Eastern Region maintenance staff are reputed to have improved the procedures which, in turn, improved the reliability of the class 15s to an acceptable level in their later years. It wasn't enough to save them though. Going back to the Brush type 2 class 30 locomotives, steam heating was a source of unreliability, and then the Mirrlees engines started developing cracks in their crankcases (with the uprated machines showing these first, and the original lower powered machines continuing fairly trouble free). Mirrlees did work out fixes for these problems but their timescale was too slow for BR, so the decision was made to re-engine all of them with the 12 cylinder English Electric power plants (very similar to those already in the class 37s), tuned to match the existing electrical systems. Thus the Brush type 2 became more homogeneous again, with all locos in the class conforming to the type 2 power classification, although there remained the first small batch with the red circle electro-magnetic control system (with D5518 being rebuilt to blue star standards, as mentioned by keefer earlier).

Classes 30 and 31 were all type 2 with the exceptions mentioned earlier, so please ignore ClassixT's adb968008's earlier list. The 'types' were a power range classification system, not a 'mark' or variation of builds. As already mentioned, a small batch of class 30 were fitted with uprated Mirrlees engines of 1600 hp (or thereabouts) becoming power classification type 3, and one only was uprated further to 2000 hp, becoming a Brush type 4, not to be confused with what became class 47, also a Brush type 4. Edited to correct the reference to an earlier post, with apologies to ClassixT.

The working pantograph is a nice touch but of no real use to me as my layout is (or will be when I get around to laying it) third rail territory.

You may have to delay the start of the Power Cab acting as the Pro Cab on address 3. Depending on the version of your firmware, there may be two ways to do this: 1. Let Cab 2 start up, then plug cab 3 in. 2. If you have the latest Power Cab version on cab 3, program in a start delay. You may have to look this up in the manual or query it online.

Well, that's a few more items on my agenda for the next time I get to Hamburg. Thanks Georgeconna.

The original 8-pin models didn't have lights. Also, the couplings were screw-fixed directly to the bogies, where later production models had NEM pockets. I'm not sure if the changeover for the coupling style coincided with the electrical changes, though.

Like the green ones, one or possibly two might appear in a rake of Mk1 coaches. I have seen one photo or video with two green ones in the one train on the SR, but that was fairly unusual.

It is very easy to have the foresight in hindsight!

Just a minor correction there: the earliest Mark 2 coaches were just Mk2, not Mk2a, and were identified in later publications as Mk2z. All Mk2a coaches were in blue/grey, and all Mk2 builds apart from those earliest maroon or green FKs were released to service in blue/grey. As an aside, the Mk2 FKs also had Mk1 style gangway connections.

I don't know if Bachmann are planning newer models of these, but the existing tooling is getting old, as you have already seen. They don't have flush glazing or mod-cons such as close-coupling mechanisms. This means you have two choices: 1. buy the existing models knowing that you have to spend money and do some work on them to bring them up to scratch, or 2. don't buy them and wait to see if Bachmann or some other manufacturer produce something better. Hornby have several pre-nationalisation non-gangwayed coach types that are up to modern standards. Some of those may possibly suit your needs.

Well, there goes the negativity! I'm inclined to agree with Doug: if all else fails, start again with the wiring, double-checking the insulating joiner locations. If there is a double slip, have insulated fishplates at every joint, and give it its own power feeds. Have you re-used older points? If so, check the little tags under the switch rails to make sure none have come adrift and causing both sides to touch the stock rails. It may turn out to be something simple, and with Murphy's Laws, something obvious but you are too close to the problem to see it. Just don't give up, Rick.

I too have been dabbling with Danish and German HO models in the last year or so, and have found it to be a steep learning curve, particularly as I understand only a smattering of either language, and speak none of either! Google translator helps a bit, but sometimes comes up with faintly ridiculous translations, probably where jargon or more specific modelling terms come up. The links Bloodnok provided in the first post have been of interest to me too, and also some in the following posts (thanks for posting them, guys). I am very cautious with choosing models online, particularly from eBay: unless I can identify them properly, and ascertain they are 2-rail DC or DCC, I don't look at them any further. Checking prices to ensure a reasonable value is also a minefield. Adding to that, I would like to get another DSB IC3 unit, something only Heljan have made, but there are two versions, one with Tenshodo motor bogies (avoid like the plague!), and one with a central can motor and flywheels, which has known problems that are fixable with a bit of work (I have got the first unit running extremely well and reliably with these mods). Online descriptions when these models come up for sale can be rather lacking in detail, making it difficult to identify whether to bid or to avoid, not to mention the language barriers. I have tried to limit my budget for European stock, as British Southern Region and London Transport are still my primary interests, but even so, I have had to push the boat out to get the IC3 unit and a DSB ME diesel electric locomotive, plus some very expensive Brawa and Hobby Trade double deck coaches as push-pull sets. Piko have been saviours for some reasonable quality locomotives at low prices, as well as a super-detailed one (a BR 112 for the push-pull operations) that was somewhat dearer, but with many extra features. Fortunately for me, several of the more reputable model shops in Germany I have dealt with have staff with very good English skills, and just about everyone in Denmark speaks English.

Newer cars seem to all over-read by 3 to 5 kph (here in Australia), but older cars could vary considerably more. Laws here required speedos to be accurate to within 10%, which was alright for my ancient 1973 Ford (recently sold) - I had to be extra careful with that one though, because it under-read by 10%. That was old technology with a cable drive from the gearbox to the speedo. The gearing could be altered (my mechanic did try!) but the accuracy was always a bit suspect. While I did make allowance for the error when driving, I could never, ever be 100% sure of my exact speed. My 2010 Mitsubishi Lancer (only recently traded in) had a constant 4 to 5 kph error all the way up the range. When asked to fix that, the dealers just said it can't be altered. For my current car, a Honda CR-V, I haven't had it long enough to work out the speedo error, if any. It goes in to the dealers next week for its one-month first check-up. It seems to me that Northampton police booking you for 1 mph over is extremely mean, and if someone wanted to challenge it in court, could probably argue that it is illegal on the grounds that a certain amount of speedometer error is permitted in the vehicle design rules (although I am not entirely familiar with the British laws on this).

After a bit of digging, this is from a forum in the USA, someone had this useful information on setting the delay on a LokPilot: "To make units with the two different decoders" [LokSound and LokPilot] to "mu smoothly the non sound LokPilot decoder has Virtual Sound as a function on CV128. This tells the non sound unit to perform as if it was a sound decoder with sound enabled. So you must map CV128 to a function key of your choice and set a value between 0-225." He went on to say you need to set an arbitrary value initially, then adjust it until you get the result you need to match the LokSound decoder.

In my case, yes. Mostly Lima Diesels / Electro-Diesels. I have heard of it being applied to wheels without the groove though, but the toothpick idea might prove too rigid, in which case, Rob's use of a brush might be a better idea to ensure a smooth and even coating.

I agree with Rob. While I have only done a few locos with it, it works well (after a couple of first attempts that came out a bit lumpy). I use a toothpick to apply it, with the wheels of the loco hooked up to the power to turn them slowly. One of those aforementioned failed attempts was because I had them spinning too fast! The beauty of it is that only a very small amount of the Snot is required, and it can be easily scraped off if you aren't happy with the initial result.

I was under the impression LokPilot v4 decoders have a CV that can add a delay to allow for running with a LokSound in a consist.

Another small step in creating the class 123 DMU. This is the first fitting for the DMBS casting. A little trimming is still required, and the underframe will have to be drastically altered to allow the motor chassis to be fitted. P_20191112_220609_vHDR_Cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

Adding to Mike's answer, to be fair to the 07s, they weren't the only ones to suffer hot boxes on longer trips. Their predecessors at Southampton Docks were the USA Dock Tanks (as produced in model form for Model Rail Magazine), and these also suffered hot boxes when taken on extended trips, either going to Eastleigh or on transfers to other sheds, as happened to a few later in their lives. With either type, when shunting in their 'home' territory around the dock lines, there was no problem as it was all short distance, low speed work.

Hi Pete. Dd you remove the capacitors from the 31? I have a few TTS decoders in use, but I haven't investigated their abilities to alter BEMF settings. That could be worth a look. Also, there are CVs that alter the behaviour including the BEMF cutoff: CVs 150 to 154 (documented in the leaflet that comes with the decoder. Try CV 150 = 1 as a starter.

If it is of any help, I received a news email from Train-Tech, and I quote a part of it here: "We are pleased to announce today that we have been developing a decoder especially for these new Dapol Servo signals which both powers them safely with a stabilised supply and controls two single arm signals or one twin head signal. It’s called the SC4, designed and made in Britain and is now available from stock priced at £40. Available to buy at the Great British Model Railway Show at the Motor Heritage Museum this weekend or Warley in two weeks time, or online from our webshop ... " I pass this on purely as I am also interested in the Dapol bracket signals, although I am awaiting the BR upper quadrant types. I have no connection with Train-Tech, other than as a satisfied customer.