SRman

Yes I've had that happen on occasions too. Autocorrect knows how to spell "Bulleid" so much better than we do!

Enjoy your trip, Peter. In the meantime, your decoder sound reblows have been done successfully and will await your return.

I have started to letter the SECR 6-wheel brake van. There is very little specific information available on the Internet regarding liveries and lettering, but from what I can glean, the SE&CR lettering for the period I want goes in the left hand lower corner and should be approximately one plank tall - I think mine might be a little oversized but it's all I have. They are PC Models pressfix transfers (currently available from HMRS). One snippet I did pick up was that the SECR wagon grey was very similar to Great Western wagon grey, so my choice to use SECR grey on the earlier GW wagon builds seems to be vindicated. I cannot locate any pictures of the brake vans in the period I want to model, but later photos show the "Goods Brake" lettering (some even show "Goods Break"). It was pure guesswork to put the lettering in the centre of the main side panels - someone will no doubt prove it to be wrong, now I have done it! The "20 Tons" lettering seems to have been on the solebars, while the numbers (yet to be added) should be on the lower right of each side. Again, I'm not sure whether the numbers should also be repeated on the van ends or not, but it was the case with goods wagons.

As I suggested before, newer versions of Windows also auto-compensate displaying photos or videos. It makes it very difficult to properly correct them.

Isn't it a tad draughty without any attire?

The black bit at the top actually just clips on or off. I took the tops off on my squealing class 56 and oiled inside those bearings, adding a spot to the gears as well while I had the chance. The top clips back on even more easily than it comes off. No more squealing: now I just have to fix the dodgy lights!

I find that if I take photos or video on my phone, there's no indication as to which way is 'up'. The phone auto-compensates, and so does MS Windows. When I upload them to the web, though, they suddenly revert to whatever the 'correct' orientation was without the compensation.

I thought you were experimenting with Magnadhesion to get over your gradients, Doug. It looks to have been a runaway success!!

Footboards and steps added. I have used the ones from the MR 20 ton brake van kit, but shortened the footboards by cutting a short section out of the middle and filing the clearance for the centre axlebox. There is a small amount of filler needed on one side, but the other side seems to have worked quite neatly. I also used the plastic hangers from the MR kit, but moved the middle ones outwards slightly to clear the centre spring hangers.

Hi. Yes, footboards are the next step (oh, look! A pun! It wasn't deliberate.) From what I have found, although information is sketchy, the dark grey is correct for around the turn of the century. I'm still not sure whether it should have the smaller "SE&CR" lettering like the ex-LCDR van in the photos, or the larger lettering in the middle of the sides. I think the lighter grey was later. The preserved 'Dance Hall' van appears to wear that grey, although it incorrectly wore red ends too - there is no evidence the SECR used red ends on their vans. I am also inclined to think that my end handrail is a little too low. I shortened it after initially deciding it was too tall! I believe you are correct about the extra support pillar. There may also be a couple of raised planks to add on the lower part of the verandah end, which will also support two lamp irons.

After a brief hiatus, I have progressed a little bit further towards completing the 6-wheel SECR brake van conversion. I painted the handrails black, except for the end one on the non-verandah end, which is body coloured (SECR wagon grey). I don't think the handrails were white for the period I want to model, but I'm not sure when the white came in. My guess would be during WW1, but it is possible that it was earlier than that. The windows have now been glazed, and the roof glued on. Still to go are the lamp irons and footboards, plus lettering.

So you only have another 9996 models to build, repaint or convert, Phil.

Simon Kohler, before he left Hornby, said as much. They tried offering locomotives with alternative number stickers in the box, but the upshot was that buyers didn't really use the facility much, preferring to leave the original names and numbers in place. Many that did choose to use the alternatives applied them poorly, according to Simon. I'm inclined to believe him, as he did keep an effective finger on the market pulse most of the time (even when being overruled by his bosses). Heljan tried it in OO (class 47), and also still do this in O scale. The OO models still hang around in some shops and seem to sell for relatively cheaper prices, from my own observations.

Don't forget the SR Schools loco that was mocked up with a plywood casing too. I'm not sure if it ever ran in that condition, though.

For those of us who cannot make it to any of the shows (I am approximately 10,000 miles away!), these 'teasers' are very welcome. The coaches look superb in those shots.

The SECR van has had its first coat of SECR grey, and handrails added (a few still need a little straightening up).

From what I have read elsewhere, I don't think Bulleid was looking at airflow, but rather, the ability to run through a carriage washing plant. Of course, that could have just been a rumour, but I have seen it in print somewhere.

If it is merely a broken or disconnected wire, it should be fairly easy to trace, using a process of elimination. I would start by checking the continuity through the four pin plug from loco to tender. Obviously, the connections feeding the brushes are working, so that only leaves two of those connections to check. Even so, Doug's Q6 ran happily enough on my layout for several hours on Saturday. The sound was good but, as Doug said to me, it needs a tad more bass in it, so once he fixes the pickups, the next task will be to experiment with speaker setups.

Rising sea levels may eventually put paid to the Aberdeen Harbour Board, once there's no harbour left to board!

Humbrol #10, Service Brown is not too far off, if a little dark. Far too glossy but that is easily fixed afterwards with a matt varnish, which will also make it appear a little lighter. I used the same colour with tints from other colours (red and orange, from memory) to get an approximation for LSWR wagon brown.

That looks really good ... but how did you get that real one to sit on the imitation blue box?

I use a contact cement. Local brands here in Australia included Bear Brand (is that still available?) and Selleys. I roughen the insides of the brass sides to provide a key for the glue. These glues tend to attack the plastic base coach sides a little, which is actually a good thing as that means that when the brass sides are applied, the glue "grabs" and remains attached to both parts.

I was given to understand that the shape was intended to be able to go through a carriage washing plant. Whether they ever did is another question entirely ... I don't think they did.

Wasn't Channel Packet first introduced in plain black? Again, I don't have my references immediately to hand to say when it was first painted green. Certainly Bachmann's Bulleid coaches are out of the picture because they are of the post-nationalisation build.

After adding the brake blocks, I have been tweaking them a little to get them clear of the wheel treads and flanges when the axles are at full travel sideways. It still runs freely, but not quite as freely as before I fitted the brakes! I gave it a coat of grey primer earlier on Saturday, and now have applied the first coats of paint, using Humbrol #67 for the initial approximation of the SECR grey (to be followed later with the proper grey after I drill the handrail holes). The roof has had a first coat of satin white (Humbrol #130), and the wheels a coat of Humbrol #133 brown, followed by a black wash on the wheels, brakes and W-irons (more or less everything below the solebars).