SRman

The white and yellow wires are very often worked interactively on commercial models, with the white wire supplying the headlights at end 1 and the tail lights at end 2, while the yellow wire supplies the headlights end 2 and the tail lights at end 1. This combination is usually worked by function 0 on the controller, but actually constitutes two functions of the decoder, and (usually, set to work in one direction only for each wire (white for forwards and yellow for reverse). All function wires use the blue wire as the common return. If you want independent light controls, then the tail lights have to be separated out from the wires controlling the headlights, so you have to use the other available colours (e.g. green and purple on a 4-function decoder). The headlights, still on the white and yellow wires separately, can still be operated directionally from Function 0 on the controller, but other function buttons have to be used for the tail lights at each end. It's really not as complicated as it sounds.

Optical illusion caused by the black cab corners on the VEP. It does give us some hope of disguising the too-thick corner pillars on the Hornby VEP, though.

... and almost as rowdy as our pollies!

If you could see two ramps, you had a 50% chance of getting one of them, yet you managed to miss both?

One question Allan: how big was that ferry? If ti was a very small one, you might have a good excuse for missing it! My other half tends to drive past parking spots I could park the hardtop in, looking for something she can drive out of on the other side ... she drives a Nissan Micra!

Not sure about Oz drivers going silly distances, but there have been plenty of stories of people driving off boat ramps or into rivers, lakes or oceans over the years. There was the story of the 80 year old granny who missed her turn and kept driving for 300 miles ... that was in England, though (Worcester) so may be hard even for an Australian to beat!

While I agree that perhaps Kernow should have made it clear the units need a 5-function decoder (not 6), it isn't quite as simple as that. Some decoders listed as having only 4 functions will work because they also have 'logic level' functions, which work if there is suitable circuitry on the item's pcb. The TC units appear to have such circuitry, because the Lenz 4-function Silver+ 21 decoders will work all lighting functions on the TC (in spite of my initial failure with this decoder). Similarly, the Lenz decoder works in DJ Models' class 71 to work the headcode lighting. I think this has been posted by someone earlier, but for the record: F0 turns on both ends' headcodes (2 functions for directional red/white lights). F1 turns off the headcode at one end (in conjunction with F0 being on) F2 turns off the headcode at the other end (again in conjunction with F0 being on) F5 turns on the interior lights.

Hi Jamie. The scene is actually a small diorama, which I was able to take out into the garden in full sunshine, hence the nice shadows - convincing because they are real! I wish I could do the same for my layout pictures, but that is way too large to move outdoors. Some of the background 'trees' are actually real shrubs in my garden, some are models; the big oak tree in the left foreground is an old Brittains plastic model with Woodland Scenics foliage. The ferns under the road sign are a Scale Link etched brass product. The farm house is an ancient Airfix detached house I renovated just for the diorama. Thanks for the compliments.

There are a few ways to reassign the functions. The most cumbersome way is to look up the relevant CVs that need changing; these can then be programmed using your ECoS unit. Easier ways involve linking the ECoS and programming track to a computer. You can then use JMRI's free Decoder Pro software to reprogram the various functions by the simple expedient of ticking and unticking checkboxes on screen. This is probably your best, and cheapest option. Another way would be to use an ESU LokProgrammer, also linked to a computer - similar abilities to select checkboxes. Some people use SPROG programmers - I have no experience with this one. I am not entirely sure, but your ECoS unit may also have the ability to reprogram without knowing the necessary CVs; the answer to that will also have to await someone else with better knowledge of the unit than mine. I have included some of the alternatives here because other people with similar problems but different equipment may find something of use to them too. Hopefully I haven't confused the issue too much.

One from my archives - taken long ago when cameras didn't have so many megapixels! Sorry, no trains in this one either: a Volvo B58 with Duple Dominant II bodywork cruises down a narrow country lane, somewhere in leafy Surrey. Green Line, under the control of London Country Bus Services (an NBC subsidiary) tried out two of these Volvo chassis against similarly bodied Leyland Leopards after British Leyland killed off the previously favoured AEC Reliance model; the Leylands won the main order.

That brings back a few memories. We used to watch them on the Crawley bypass back in the early to mid-'60s.

Hi Mark. I'm not actually doing anything with the convention at all. While there are aspects of interest, I just need the rest at home for the weekend. After the last convention I attended, I got the swine flu. I'm a little wary of attending crowded situations now.

That wouldn't have been a Bachmann decoder, by any chance, Peter? I had the same problem with Bachmann 36-554 decoders (yes, I tried more than one out), but changing to Lenz fixed the problem.

There, there, Paul! Take two Valiums and go to bed. It will all be better in the morning. p.s. I know what you mean. I've ordered one but the rest all look so tempting. It is nice to see the cab variations as well as the liveries, in the flesh now. They do look good.

A local satirical show way back in the '70s (1977/8, I think), The Naked Vicar Show, had a skit where they contrasted the styles of males from different countries in courting their women. It went something like this: In America, they say (American accent), "Would you like to come up and see ma etchings?". In Britain, they say (cultured English accent), "Would you care to come up and see my paintings?" In Australia, they say (broad ocker Aussie accent), "Hop in the back seat and look at the roof!" How does this relate to our previous discussions? Well, The Naked Vicar was also where a popular Australian character, Ted Bullpit was invented, leading to a complete comedy series called Kingswood Country. "The Kingswood? You're not taking the Kingswood! I've just ..." followed by the lamest of excuses to not loan the Holden Kingswood to the son in law.

For my pre-grouping trains, I rather admired Hornby's forthcoming Crystalate wagon, but the catalogue illustrations showed the huge, clunky coupling. I had rather hoped they would use something finer, but when it came out very recently, sure enough, clunky and chunky couplings were present. However, a little bit of investigation showed that they were of the Dapol-style clip in type. A while back, I discovered that the first release new-style Hornby Pullman couplings were a direct clip-in replacement for the larger couplings. As the all of my early Hornby Pullmans were modified with the slightly later NEM pocket couplings and revised bogies (parts that Simon Kohler, in Hornby's name happily supplied), I have a reasonable supply of these finer couplings. The original coupling type, removed from the wagon: The replacement ex-Pullman coupling: The underside of the wagon with the replacement couplings in place. And the wagon as it is now. I'm much happier with it with the finer couplings. Perhaps it could do with a little weathering, but then again, a lot of my other P. O. and railway company wagons also need that.

On the other hand, I have now built three SECR (or at least, two plus and ex-LCDR one) from kits or kit-bashes, so now would be the perfect time for a manufacturer to render all my work obsolete!! Actually, a commercial SECR/LCDR van would be good. It would be nice to have some joined-up thinking on trains as a whole, with stock matching locomotives, although having said that, I would not impose that on Hattons as a small, niche manufacturer. It needs some of the larger manufacturers to take up the challenge, I think. Bachmann have started the ball rolling by doing the soon to be released SECR versions of the birdcage stock. If those are the success I think they are going to be, maybe they will do more similar projects, such as some LBSC stock to go with the E4 (and Hornby's ex-Dapol Terriers), or LSWR stock, which Hornby have *nearly* done - the stock they have done is only appropriate for SR days onwards because it was modified after the Grouping. I am getting into the realms of speculation there, but, going back to the original point, an SECR brake van (or break van, as they labelled some!) would be a great starting point. Bear in mind too that even some kits are too late for the elaborate liveries on the C class and forthcoming H and P classes; the 'Dance Hall' brakes were only built from 1919, for example.

The only thing was, you needed an advanced plumber to fix it if it went wrong. dealerships for Citroen were few and far between. If you were bush-bashing in the 1960s or '70s, the only cars you could be sure of finding parts to repair them were the Holden/Ford Falcon/Chrysler Valiant, plus the only foreign one, the VW Beetle. Anything else risked being stranded until parts could be brought in from the major cities. Having said that, one friend had a Goggomobil, which he kept going by scouring all of the surrounding farms to buy derelict cars with bits he could use. His wife thought he was breeding them under his house!

When I put together a video recently of various trains running through Newton Broadway, I noted a few stutters on my Dapol 73, which has sound, so the stutters were more obvious. It has behaved perfectly in terms of running qualities up to now. I'll have to try the meths method of cleaning; it will be a lot easier than adding extra pickup wires as described elsewhere. I still won't be buying any more unless they are properly fixed, electrically and livery-wise ... unless they are very heavily discounted.

In the latest (October 2017) Model Rail magazine, there is an article on train watching; heading the article is a photo taken at Waterloo, with all the multi-coloured South West Trains livery variations on EMUs brightening the picture quite a lot. It occurred to me just how drab that same picture would look with all trains in the South Western Railway black and grey livery.

The plastic whistles are very vulnerable; I lost two out of three! For one, I put a bit of brass wire in the Dremel chuck and used a needle file against it as it spun, then trimmed to a suitable length to make a reasonable facsimile of a whistle - it probably wouldn't pass close inspection, but it works for me. For the second one, I happened to have a Markits' whistle for a type I can't remember off hand, but they do offer quite a few different types.

Yet another locomotive that has been awaiting attention for a long, long time is my ex-SR Maunsell Q 0-6-0. I had re-chassised it a year or more ago with a Bachmann DCC-ready Midland 3F tender locomotive, although the decoder socket is actually in the tender. This evening, I stopped thinking about it and actually did something about it. I cut off the four pin plug and identified which wire was which by trial and error on a DC controller. Linking the pairs of wires resulted in forward or reverse motions (good!). Each pair was carefully teased to one side or other to keep the two halves separate. I then tried one wire on one side touching one from the other side, with the controller set at near full voltage. If nothing happened then one or other, or both wires led to the brushes. Only the two track feeds would short out. Once those were identified, I labelled them with coloured heat-shrink tubing. Next, a DCC Concepts S4SA decoder had its 8-pin plug cut off, the blue, yellow and white wires cut short and sealed off with some more heat-shrink tube, and the remaining wires soldered to the correct, matching 'labelled' locomotive wires. A quick test on the programming track indicated that all was well and the address and other CVs could be read and written to. This chassis was then tested on DCC and actually ran in the correct directions, more by luck than skill. The wires were tidied up and tacked to the motor and housing, the decoder was roughly secured ahead of the motor, and the white metal Wills body was carefully lowered on and secured. Another test was carried out on the programming track to ensure there were no short-circuits from the metal body. Again, all was well. The wheels were given a good cleaning and then 30539 was sent off for a couple of circuits of Newton Broadway in both directions on the smallest radius (i.e. inner) track. I can say it was a complete success and runs extremely smoothly and quietly, although I tweaked the starting voltage in CV2 very slightly. The loco body and tender had their liberal layers of dust cleaned off and some photos were taken. There is still some work to do to finish off the model and its detailing (e.g. a boiler bottom curve section, and a firebox backhead), but it is now fully operational.

Try sales@kernowmodelrailcentre.com .

It was also comfortable for six people - four adults and your young Master and Miss DougNs as well, with the 'rumble' seats in the very back.

I think you have to go with the track plan that gives you the most enjoyment; hang accuracy! It is a model of a preserved line so anything is possible. Personally, I would go for Birch Grove as being a better running model which is also DCC-ready (for the future). The Terriers are old models and rather noisy, although they are smooth and powerful as well, and are not DCC-ready. I like the idea of a station on a future extension of the Bluebell. On the subject of track, set track simplifies things considerably - for a newcomer, the KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid! ) is always a good one to stick with. As you gain experience, then you can branch out into more adventurous ideas. Flexible track is more difficult to lay and trim, but does give a better 'flow' to the track work, allowing things like transition curves (easing a curve out into a straight, or vice versa, rather than a sudden lurch from a curve instantly into a straight). Flexi track also allows for odd spaces to be easily filled in where set track formations won't quite work. On the other hand, when space is tight, as in your case, set track can give more consistent results on curvature. It is also wise to try the plan out in situ before buying the track; Peco do have track templates you can download and print. What works on paper doesn't always quite fit in practice. Make sure you allow adequate clearances for the longest and widest vehicles to pass each other (particularly where the double tracks merge to single track - allow for the longest trains you will run, too) and lineside objects. I do have a soft spot for the Bluebell myself, having grown up in the south east (mostly), and lived not too far from the Bluebell in the 1960s. My first trip there was in my Uncle's Austin A40, complete with a dodgy door that would fly open on right hand bends! I have visited it on each occasion I have returned to Britain too, although the last occasion was in 1999.