EHertsGER

Recommended video; I watched it before I started mucking about with mine. He also covers wheel set removal and replacement, so you get the whole job in one go.

Having come hot foot from my bench after converting the Accurascale 37 to P4, I thought I would share my experience and thoughts. I read somewhere that someone had commented that the bogie side frames don't have to come off; it is my considered opinion that they should, as the chain anchors on both sides will preclude lifting the side frame/baseplate assembly away from the wheels for sufficient clearance to swap out the wheel sets unless you remove those anchors. Seating the base plate is also much more difficult with this approach. So, onwards. 1. Removal of the body. I did this just in case anything went wrong, got in the way, was likely to get damaged and so on. I was also about to fit a crew, so it seemed like a good idea. 2. Removal of the bogie side frames. Not that hard, really; they just come away to the side, pulled straight off the bogies horizontally, if you see what I mean. Things get a little awkward as they are anchored in four places each side: two main points between the wheels and at each end. Also, the rod between the brake shoes will need to come out at one end or the other. Simple leverage with a pair of splayed tweezers either side of the inner mounting points loosened everything, and the ends came away as the mid-part separated from the bogie. The brake shoe rods are glued in but will part from the side frame easily with a little persuasion. Cleaning their holes and ends at the end and supergluing them back was pretty easy. You may have to clear the original glue residue from the holes and the ends first. The side frames are also anchored to the body by the chain. One can set aside the frames to each side of the bogie or remove the chain anchors with a little wiggling and put it all out of harm's way - the chain anchors are glued in and take very little to remove if you are not inclined to manage the loose frames whereabouts and fit the wheels at the same time! The anchors relocate in a small slot with a spot of superglue at the end of all this. 3. Removal of the base plate. This pops off the six anchor points; four at the side and one each end. You've seen them before, you know what to do. For those that haven't, slip a tip of something pointy under one end and loosen them as they strain to come away in the same manner. I found starting at the inboard end easier. 4. Swap out the wheels. Literally. Take the old ones out put the new ones in. Make sure you bend the pickups outwards to touch the wider gauged wheels, but don't get them trapped outside the wheels when you put in the new set. There's plenty of grease in the gear train, but I scraped off that on the old wheels and added it to the new ones. 5. Replace the bogie base plates, making sure all six catches are 'home'. Start inboard again as that end is hard to secure if you miss it and the others are all secure. 6. Reattach the bogie side frames. The brake shoe rods will test your eyesight and possibly patience, but you got yourself into this so... 7. Replace the bogie safety chain anchors if you removed them. 8. Replace the body, if you have removed it. 9. Place on the track and test, feel smug and then go in search of your favourite reward for being so clever! Best, Marcus

A little late for your ‘period’ but an MGB GT - I seem to recall it was a white ‘72 - was Adge’s preferred car. Alas, killed while driving it, having fallen asleep at the wheel. or, a ‘brand new combine harvester’…

The Rumney chassis was never intended to fit the Hornby J15. We thought about it, but as the ‘sponsor’ of the project it would have been too much compromise for my purpose. The main issue with replacing the Hornby chassis was the lower half of the body integral to the chassis. In doing our market research (identifying the NuCast kit as another beneficiary as well as scratchbuilders as the Gibson kit was out of production, though does appear occasionally, either from Gibson’s rage or by auction) I felt the Hornby model was best left to Brassmasters to support, which they have.

The Rumney Models chassis for the J15 and F4/5/6 are both etched fold up chassis produced by Justin for me - and put on the open market. Same for the Cl. 31 sprung chassis I commissioned.

Just FYI I commissioned Fox to produce GER decals for this, if you are planning on that period. They are in the Fox range.

I suggest you take a look at Rumney Models' website Morton-Independent-Lifting Link Brake Underframes | Rumney Models. You will, of course, need axle boxes and so on, which he also supplies. Your van bodywork has been finished very well, so a decent chassis should go under it. The kits are not as hard to build as you might think form the pictures. I managed it...!

Well, if it comes to that I could turn up some more myself…I had hoped it would still be supported.

With the demise of Eileen’s Emporium, who is picking up the business of supporting the Avonside jig with spares, such as the axle rods?

Paraphrasing a recent remark by a Healthcare Corporation (of course) to the effect that they are in business to make money, not cure people…

Try candle wax on the blades; just run the blade through and old candle offcut. It will make passage through the metal easier and reduce the binding that causes most breakages. Washing up liquid at a pinch if your household is all electric!

I’ll vouch for these little marvels; so far I’ve used them on the fabled quad art (there you go, Richard, one less excuse…) a twin art, a half dozen NPCs and about a dozen coaches. Just be careful keeping them in line and you’ll have some really nice looking hinges. Steady with the solder, though, or you’ll get blobs. Clean work, flux and heat, as ever, are your friends.

Rumney Models will be releasing an etched kit for the Mink F later this year - likely July

Rumney Models will be releasing an etched kit for the Mink F later this year - likely July.

Your prayers will be answered in part: Rumney Models will be releasing an etched kit for the Mink F later in the year - likely July…