30368

Some progress to report and a picture of 30258 and its two sister engines. I have made a pair of lifting brackets for the top of the side tanks that are not included in the kit. Bunker extension used is the plated in variety, both types provided in the kit. The boiler clack valve/pipe castings are very good. A picture of the three G6's, including Jack Benson's version that will soon be delivered to him. Sorry, not a great picture! Kind regards, Richard B

Sorry, I should have explained re smoke deflectors. The centre picture shows a strut securing the front edge of the deflector to the smokebox side. The other two images don't appear to have the strut. As far as I can see from all the illustrations that I have the strut is only featured on 30,31 and 32. My earlier comment regarding N15X's ending up at Basingstoke where lighthearted. Most of the written sources seem to agree that they were poor "compared to the N15s" which were of course a LSWR design and engine-men could be a little biased. I have noticed though that Basingstoke seemed to keep them pretty clean during their stay in the 1950s so perhaps they had some affection for them? Kind regards, Richard B

Jack P, I agree that these were not very effective locomotives when employed as tender locomotives which helps to explain why they all ended up at Basingstoke! Since my planned layout will be of Basingstoke shed I have no choice but to build one and they are quite handsome there Belpaire firebox providing some variety to all those round topped LSWR/SR types. Kind regards, Richard B

Hi Jack P I have a few pictures of N15X. I hope these help, mine pictures are mostly in BR livery since that is the period I chose to model. Give me a shout if you need more. Notice the variation in smoke deflectors! Kind regards, Richard B

Sorry, no progress to report. Mrs B and I have been on a weeks break in Venice. Battle with the wee G6 will re-commence shortly. Kind regards, Richard B

Please divert Bucoops! Part of my family were from Norwich so I kind of like the GER too. Anyway, G6 looks a lot less like an N7 now! Kind regards, Richard B

Just discovered this topic. Some truly great work achieved but what ambition! My model railway interest is centred on engine shed although 70D is much smaller so I plan to follow this brilliant project. Good luck! Kind regards, Richard B

If I may, thought I would add to the topic with a few pics of my originals. 35009 is a PDK kit, 35009 kept its original cab until early 1953 when it was shopped and had the wedge cab fitted and a coat of Brunswick Green. 35030 is a Millholme white metal kit which was built many years ago but runs well. Another Millholme kit awaits completion which will be a series 1 locomotive later in life. All the contributors have covered the Hornby variations very well so I'll not repeat all your good work with my lot! Kind regards, Richard B

The N7 look fine and I nice contrast with A J Hills original. Oxford Rail are doing a good job for LNER fans. The G5 should be an interesting build - someone is building a 1:1 scale version too. If I recall, the G5, being a NER loco also operated on the ex GER? One of my son-in-laws is building an ex GER layout when time permits - my daughter accuses me of corrupting a perfect decent chap into a model railway enthusiast! Makes Christmas and birthdays easier though - I'm a big fan of the LNER. Regarding the wee G6's - I believe they did occasionally work on cross - London transfer freights from Strawberry Hill and later Feltham and so may have made it to the GN and possibly the GE at Stratford? Mind, with such a small bunker and side tanks many stops for refreshment would be necessary. Thanks for the pics, great and good luck with the plans. Kind regards, Richard B

Brilliant looks a very good kit and it has been well assembled! Is it now completed? I see you have modelled the round top firebox version which I think was a Gresley modification introduced in LNER times? Please send a picture if its not too much trouble? Back to the G6/N7 - I'm not happy with the smokebox front casting - poor fit. So made up a black plasticard replacement: Needs to be filed to profile. Now glued into position and fitting can begin - replacement smokebox door is by Craftsmen Models. I should own up to making a bit of an error - the cab floor should be elevated by about 2mm! I have looked at rectification but it would disturb too much. I can correct aesthetically but blast it! Kind regards, Richard B

Yes agree - a Urie S15 is needed - I have built a DJH Urie S15, my first attempt at kit building, and it is not too bad but an etched kit or proprietary version would be very popular I believe. A picture of the old bird - needs a trip to the works! Kind regards, Richard B

My thanks to DLT for leading me to this topic. The quality of Nick's work is truly outstanding well done, an inspiration to all of us modellers! Kind regards, Richard B

Thanks Dave

My goodness, where did I go wrong! Do you mean M7? N7 a bit different! Kind regards, Richard B

Today's update. I'm sure we all do so but look at the prototype you are building very carefully. The G6 has a long and short smokebox variation and a snap riveted smokebox wrapper at both ends or at the boiler end or flush rivets. In early BR days 30258 has a short smokebox and snap rivets at both ends. I guess following a General Overhaul and boiler change it ended up with snap rivets at the boiler end only. The Alan Gibson kit thankfully caters for all variations. It recommends that you use solder paint to coat the under wrapper and the second (riveted) wrapper and then use a wire "tourniquet" to hold them in place. I found it much easier to fit and solder each wrapper separately using a gas torch (similar to those used on Master chief) to heat the boiler and wrappers. Kind regards, Richard B

Welcome back Jack, see you soon. Richard

Today's update. In between gardening able to start soldering cab and side tanks together. Don't forget to drill the clearance holes for the tank filler casting before the tank inner etch is soldered into place. It is not marked so check the location from a drawing or good photographs. Boiler tube fitted temporarily to help locate tank sides and front before soldering. Kind regards, Richard B

This afternoon's progress. Soldering the cab and side tank beading to the etch is a bit tricky but so long as the bending is fairly accurate it shouldn't be too bad. I located the etch blu-tack and then inserted the beading making sure it was central on the etch. Solder in short steps around the cab profile using a file end to press the beading into the corners. Then clean up excess solder - the view above is the inside so it will not show. Just beginning to look like a G6! Kind regards, Richard B

Hi Ian Yes a good view of the London end and those wonderful pneumatically operated signals (and points). I used to park my moped in one of the machine rooms back in 1963. Hope to get back to my 70D layout this winter. Kind regards, Richard B

Moving on to body building.. the cab has a lot of detail compared to the SEF version. and a not very good picture of the prototype being modelled which is another 70D allocated locomotive: Kind regards, Richard B

Footplate constructed and fitted. Soldering valances to buffer beams and footplate needed some patience! Kind regards, Richard B

Chassis almost complete, brake gear fitted and coupling rods too. All runs very smoothly, awaiting very fine wire to connect pick-ups to the motor. Must say that the Alan Gibson sprung pick-ups have made things very much simpler. Kind regards, Richard B

Agree Izzy, generally best to solder split rods together and do this on a Poppy Jig or similar as below, sorry not a great picture! Kind regards, Richard B

Some good advice offered, I use the Poppy Jig too it works well. Can I ask if anyone knows where I can purchase the GW wheels press? Kind regards, Richard B

A quick update. Have painted and assembled axles/moter etc to the chassis. Quartering the wheels a little tricker with Gibson wheels and given that this kit is probably 12 years or more old, I also had an old Alan Gibson problem with one wheel rim becoming loose but easily rectified with the right super glue. For the first time I have used Alan Gibson pick-ups which consist of a nylon ferrule that passes through a hole in the frame. The ferrule houses the brass pickup and spring, the assembly is held in place by bending over the end of the pickup, rather like spring buffers. The contact point is at the back of the flange and continuity seems very good. Kind regards, Richard B