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30368

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  1. Have added first platform "furniture" a modified ex Midland water column made to look as close as possible to the LSWR (SR?) version. Ballast is still drying out and has not yet been painted. KInd regards, Richard B
  2. Continueing to work on Platform 1 and the bay. Using Peco platform kits. Pl. 1 now mounted on the board and I have started to ballast the down main. Approaching this in a different way from the bay. I have painted the board with a mioxture of earth coloured paint and then very thinly applied the ballast. I then sprayed with detergent water and then applied the watered down PVA with a brush. Filler applied to platform section joints. Kind regards, Richard B
  3. I think that it was certainly worth the trouble and that wee trainspotter on the platform seems to agree... Kind regards, Richard B
  4. If my memory is sound you are correct Michael. SR steam loco cabs black and light stone above although the light stone, as you would expect, got grubby fairly quickly. My Hornby A4 tender front was supplied black (perhaps overhauled at Darlington?) and the W1 was supplied with a green fronted tender which I proceeeded to paint black!!! I visited Darlington Works on a number of occasions (1963/4) and my recollection was that V2 tender fronts were painted black on green painted tenders. I am happy to be corrected on this is someone is more certain. Kind regards, Richard B
  5. Working on Platform 1 and the bay. Using Peco platform kits. These are brick platform sides and slap tops. Early views of this platform show that the sides were contstructed of concrete (at the time of the station rebuilding which was around 1904/5. with slab tops. The platforms were later tarmacked over because, I assume, the slabs were breaking up. I plan to fill the embossed brick sides and top with filler and then paint and weather appropriately. I can get five coaches into the bay which is fine. Kind regards, Richard B
  6. HI Mick, I take your point re cylinder cover profiles. I have tackled this on my two Hornby Models as follows: 1. A4 (Miles Beevor) I gently curved the bottom of the body moulding covering the cylinders to create a curve. Secondly I fitted a brass front cylinder cover that is slightly proud of the body. It does improve the look. Have now found a picture or two of Miles B - Plastic body around cylinders re-profiled and brass cylinder cover in place. Fairly heavy weathering! 2. W1 I thought that the body moulding over the cylinders was not too bad however the cylinder end cover, very prominent on the prototype, is too small and hidden away. In order to add a brass cylinder end cover it was necessary to add a sleeve (washers) to the end of the plastic cylinder so that when the brass cover is glued on there is clearance between it and the body. Bit fiddly but worth the effort. Could not find my pictures of the A4 but W1 looks like this. Kind regards, Richard B
  7. Had a go at my first ballast laying followed by a small scenic area. The site is the "Salisbury Bay" on the down side of Basingstoke platform 1 (not modelled yet) where Salisbury and beyond stopping trains started their journey. Those that originated at Basingstoke that is. In future I will use much less ballast since in places I have covered up the chairs and sleepers. The board is a temporary fixture to prevent "the great train disaster of Basingstoke"... The rail built buffer stops (LMS models) were given to me by Phil (Mallard6022), thanks Phil. Tree needs some more work. Kind regards, Richard B
  8. Just a bit of imaginative creativity..... and very, very unlikely that such a move was ever considered. When my Basingstoke layout is complete (whenever that may be...) it will run so I guess that's Rule 1 in operation. I do have an A3, A4, an A1/1*, an A2/2 and two A2/3s* and two V2s* and a B1. I also have a Proscale A4 and A3 and a Judith Edge V4 kit to build. The V2's and the B1 will be fine to run but the rest are all Rule 1 candidates. Kind regards, Richard B * DJH A2/3, Crown Line A1/1 and Proscale V2 kits built by me.
  9. I would like to add that my model of 60700 is rather good with few faults that I have noticed. Some of us though, primarily from what I can see in this thread, those that ordered the original W1, have either had to finish the assembly of the model, return it or seek spares to repair. Truly not acceptable and despite providing the hobby with models of two facinating prototypes, Hornby need to act to deal with their customers complaints and make sure that this is not repeated in future releases. My 60700 had a loose return crank on one side meaning that it could not maintain its correct relationship to the axle. The same was true of the crank driving the mechanical lubricators. Trivial compared to some I know. I have added brass cylinder end covers, they clear the body so don't get snagged when the body is removed from the chassis. I have also added the front to the firebox and the rear cage of the front buffer units. Klear has been applied + light chassis weathering. I have also added the (fuse wire) pipe that runs just above where the namplate would have been. Despite everything it is a magnificant model of an equally fabulous prototype. Luckily for me it was one of the loco's transferred to the Southern during the Bullied axle problems..........! Kind regards, Richard B
  10. A very brief update. I have mounted the 13 Seep Point Motors that handle the main line that runs past the shed. I have connected up the first and it works just fine. I hve found just three of the 50 on-off-on momentary switches that I ordered for point motor control about six years ago. The rest seem to have been lost in the move to Buxton! I have replacements on order. My version of a mimic board for the main line routes. I will need a second board for Oakley Station and its small yard. I am still considering the shed yard re point control. Kind regards, Richard B
  11. Looks really good Steve. It really is a fine model. Perhaps I am over critical of the green but the orange/black lining still looks too bright, particularly on the boiler cladding. I am adding some further detail to mine (Firebox front, cylinder front cover and buffer spring housings behind the buffer beam.) Agree re the cylinder drain cock pipes. Pictures in Yeadon's Vol Two of 60700 with first BR coat of arms shows long pipes tied to the long guard iron which are not fitted to the model. There is also one picture that shows the pipes shortened, presumably when the long guard irons were removed in August 1953 during a Light Casual at Doncaster. I will follow your lead and shorten to the intermeadiate point. Kind regards, Richard B
  12. Hi Rob, Mine arrived this morning so I took a few snapshots (your brother's loco has had the accessory pack fitted and its a great picture - unlike my loco) of it alongside 60026. I think the BR Green is still too yellow. I have weathered 60026 but its base colour is more blue. The image does show how much larger the W1 firebox was compared to the A4. I don't think the crew section of the tender was painted green either - it was black I think? Alternative trailing wheels etc in the "goody bag" Weathering on "Miles" not complete. Despite my observations 60700 is a rather wonderful model. I guess some weathering will help the appearance of the BR Green as others have done with their Thompson A2s. Kind regards, Richard B
  13. Hi Rob, Mine 60700 arrives tomorrow I informed by Hornby. Looking forward to comparing it with my Hornby 60026. Your two version of the W1 just look wonderful. One wonders what would have been next had Gresley lived a further 5 years. The high boiler pressure A4 and/or a 4-6-4 based on the rebuilt W1 or perhaps something more exotic and with a little French influence like a 4-8-2? Kind regards, Richard B
  14. It will be worth waiting for I'm sure. Kind regards, Richard B
  15. Dear Gilbert, Can we look forward to 60700 roaring through in the near future? Kind regards, Richard B PS Sorry speed limit would preclude roaring through I guess!
  16. I really am surprised that Hornby have sent out these models with so many minor errors. They are not cheap either. Having said that, this is a fine model of a magnificent prototype that in many ways sums up Gresley's approach to locomotive design. Large locomotives, not afraid to try technology from other countries and specific designs for a given task. In this case though it didn't work too well! So despite the minor quality issues, we are lucky to have this model available and for that Hornby should be congratulated. I am expecting my model of 60700 to arrive shortly. I have a good stock of BA and Metric screws, nuts etc... Kind regards, Richard B
  17. I think that Hornby (and all the main suppliers of ready to run) do a great job. I have to say though that the pricing of the, mainly, warmed up steam outline range is a little high...... Our hobby is not alone in this "post" covid, post Brexit price hike. It seems that many companies are taking advantage and going for it. It will be interesting to see how this all pans out! Meanwhile the going rate for a steam outline loco seems to be edging towards £300 fairly quickly. At that price, building a loco from a kit will be cheap(er) now and keeps a number of small UK based suppliers in business and... most importantly, is very rewarding. Kind regards, Richard B
  18. Hi Dylan, I am sure that David won't mind if I reply - I don't know which kit was used either but I can confirm that PDK make an A2/1 kit (need to check tender choices if you are building one with a V2 tender) since I have one on order. Kind regards, Richard B PS - I have spoken to Paul at PDK Models and he will do a kit for the A2/1 with the original 6 wheeled Group Standard tender. Hope that helps.
  19. Not much to show for a good morning work with six more point motors fitted! Picture of H15 30475 on a test run in place of the Hornby 700 class 0-6-0. Managed to avoid the drill! This loco, one of the last Maunsell H15's in service, was often seen at Basingstoke station and shed. I saw it at Woking a number of times. Kind regards, Richard B
  20. I managed to fit four point motors today really a bit fiddly! Motors are already wired up. These are the switches I will use to operate the points, these do not latch just switch the point motor then disconnect supply. Kind regards, Richard B
  21. Good luck Nick. So are you a member of the SW Circle too? Kind regards, Richard B
  22. Many thanks Nick - I did not make it clear that the toggle switches are passing contact - you would not want to pass current through a solenoid coil for any legnth of time. I will probably opt for a mimic diagram approach that you suggest. Kind regards, Richard B
  23. Hi, Not sure I will have room for all the station and yards! Main focus will be the engine shed and its yard. I will do my best to evoke my memories of Basingstoke in the 1960s. We lived in Old Basing in the early 1960s and then after marriage in one of the very early houses built on Brighton Hill. Kind regards, Richard B
  24. It is snowing fairly hard in Buxton - nothing new, we are high up at about 300m. Having completed S15 number 30507 I have decided it is high time I returned to my layout. The next stage is to motorise (at least) all the 17 points on the main line. I have made a start with SEEP point motors screwed directly under the points. I have a large number of toggle switches that could be used to control the motors utilising the spare contacts on the motor to indicate the status of the route. I guess with this approach I will need to make a control panel for the switches and a route diagram etc.. Any advice given that this is my first layout? Kind regards, Richard B
  25. Very kind David. I use powders since these can gently be removed if you want to revert to a loco that looks as if it has been cleaned. I use cotton buds/soft tissue to lightly polish off the powder which creates a very metalic looking surface with texture that can look fairly good. The dirt is left in place in all the areas that a cleaner would have avoided as "too difficult". These are not meant to be representations of preserved loco's but as I remembered them in the 1950's and 60's. Sometimes I use Pledge Klear to clean off the poweder and create a shiny finish. Kind regards, Richard B
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