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Thanks re- the boiler, it looks much better I agree. I agree, the flat area is reduced on the model, partially due, I think, to the deeper than prototype, running plate valance. I planned to investigate when I have sorted out the bogie rotation issue. I have a few ideas to check out. Thanks for your input, much appreciated. Kind regards, Richard B

Hi Mike, The boiler bands on th B16 were from Fox Transfers, appearance good but very fragile. On the G5, if my memory is correct, I used ModelMaster and will do so on the cab and running plate (and tender) on this build. I have a good stock of MT livery! I use Microscale Micro Set to fix the decals. My prototype guidance on this build has been Book Law's An Illustrated Appreciation: 1 Raven B16's. The cover picture of a B16/1 makes it clear that the firebox was lined. The cyliners are not lined which was, I think, standard Darlington practice. A perhaps interesting aside, I know of a number of SR modeller's that are also keen on the LNER and it's loco's, perhaps it is down to the GWR influence on LMS loco policy? The GWR has never been flavour of the month for SR, particularly LSWR enthusiasts so perhaps that explains it! In the early 1960's I spent some time collecting loco numbers at ScR, NER and ER sheds and was lucky enough to see all those Q6/J27 doing their stuff around places like Tyne Dock, North/South Blyth etc.... This intensified when I got my first BR Free Passes when starting my apprenticeship at Eastleigh Works in 1963. Seems all a bit of a dream now...... Kind regards, Richard B

As suggested by those that have built one of these before me, I will have to make adjustment to the front and rear (perhaps) cylinders to accommodate the bogie wheels. These are 12mm Alan Gibson wheels, which are correctly smaller than those included in the kit, but still won't clear the cylinders. Started to add some detail, the mechanical lubricators and steam reverser operating rod etc. Kind regards, Richard B

Many thanks for posting these. They are really evocative images. Kind regards, Richard B

A real problem Mick. I usually use fine wet and dry paper on the wheel rims to help the paint key. It helps but is not a complete solution. I forgot to do this on my current DJH B16/1 build! Kind regards, Richard B

Progress with the running plate and fit with chassis and boiler. Crossheads foul the front footsteps so I have eased the leading edge of the footsteps and re-jigged the crosshead/connecting rod fixing arrangement for a lower profile. I have adopted a sub-assembly approach to this build. The boiler, running plate and cab are being assembled separately and then painted and lined before final assembly. I know this approach is favoured by a number of builders. It seems to be working well so far. Running plate in primer. I have had to remove about 1mm from the mainframe/wheel splasher casting to get it to line up with the front portion of the mainframes. Lots more detail to add but it begins to look like a B16/1. Kind regards, Richard B

Sometimes Phil, can you advise on the most appropriate? Kind regards, Richard B

Phil, I know a very good specialist clinician who can help you. He is very understanding. Kind regards, Richard B

You are quite correct. The main wheelbase is correct but the leading driver centre to trailing bogie wheel centre is just over 2mm too short or 6". I might investigate correcting this if it does not affect running on my main line... As to the kit in general I think it is ok, it is a fairly old design I guess. It has required a lot of additional work to make a reasonable version of the prototype and there is still more to do. I don't mind that. I have built LRM kits too and they are not without fault in some cases, indeed this is true of most kit manufacturers. I am just pleased they are out there supporting our hobby and in my case, keeping me occupied! Kind regards, Richard B

Does Clive know? Kind regards, Richard B

Mainly Trains SR Loco Fret, it looked very similar to the brake hangers/blocks fitted to the S3/B16. I still have to fit the hanger mounting brackets and pull rods etc. Kind regards, Richard B

Chassis now re-assembled with Alan Gibson 3ft bogie wheels. Boiler has a further insert added to fill the overlarge motor cut-out and extend the full diameter section. The two lower wash out plugs (added in the 1930's) have been fitted. Kind regards, Richard B

Started to re-assemble the chassis, but before doing so the brake hangers and blocks have been added. I still need to add hanger mounting brackets and the brake pull-rods but I will leave this until I am satisfied with the chassis running qualities. Boiler work continues... PS Some progress with the boiler, smokebox wrapper fitted. I have measured the centreline of the boiler from rail level and bufferbeam and compared to drawing - it is now spot on. I removed about 1mm from the smokebox saddle. KInd regards, Richard B

None Chas. This method relies on the low coeffecient of friction between the wheels and the rail, which is fairly low anyway and I add a smidgen of lub oil to the track anyway so the load is not that great. The oil wipes off and creates a nice stain on the track ballast too! Kind regards, Richard B

I have painted the chassis and driving wheels and left to dry. I have turned my attention to the boiler which requires a lot of work. If the two boiler halves are soldered together then the result with my castings will be a boiler tapered towards the firebox.... not ideal. I have removed the boiler bands and then fitted a brass insert at the firebox end to make the boiler parallel. The smokebox front is correct to drawing so that has been my "template". brass insert glued in place, makeshift spacers to keep the boiler halves square. A fair amount of adjustment needed! Low melt solder on the bottom and top seams, rest will be filled and cleaned up. Kind regards, Richard B

Pleased to say that the main chassis assembly is now completed and running very well. The bogie wheels are temporary pending replacements ordered from Colin at Alan Gibson. Had a great chat with Colin and as always he was helpful. Running in on the SW Main LIne - temporary occupation. Kind regards, Richard B

Coupling and connecting rods now fitted. The chassis is very free running with (so far) no need to ease crankpin clearances. I now move on to those cylinders that will require a fair bit of fettling before I can assemble. I will be adding some extra detail too. Coupling rods look ok now I have removed more material and added the split rod detail that will require further work to finish. The connecting rods now ok although the RH one requires a little more cleaning up. Kind regards, Richard B

Door problems were (probably still are) a top ten reason for unit/train failure. Even when the correct maintenence practices are carried out they still failed. I recall a trip to India a few years back when the guide took us to the main railway station in Chennai (I think) and pointed out how efficient the suburban trains were. They were absolutely packed, I pointed out that one of the major causes of train failure in the UK would be solved by applying Indian Railway practice. The suburban units had no doors! Kind regards, Richard B

Thanks for all the tips guys. Motor and gearbox all assembled and pick-ups added. Gearbox/motor assembly runs very smoothly although chassis does not make much headway with the only centre wheels driven. Images and drawings (the drawing arrived today) make it clear that the coupling rods are too wide. I have reduced them and whilst the look is improved, particularly in relation to the connecting rods, I will try to take off a little more. Incidently, noted that I have two L/H connecting rods! Simple to fix by removing the oil box and re-fixing in the correct position. I have had a cursory look at the drawing and compared the castings to it. The spectacle plate looks to be ok with a fairly accurate roof radius. The boiler however will need some correction. I had already decided to wrap the smokebox with thin brass sheet to add the rivet detail but the smokebox will need more attention than that as will the firebox. Both are too short. I will probably have to clean off all the boiler bands too since they are in the wrong position. This is not a problem since the loco will be in BR MT livery so the transfers will restore the bands in the correct position. The boiler diameter seems ok to drawing. Kind regards, Richard B

Life can be cruel Clive. Surely you could fashion a lift from a few cut and shut washing machines and the odd unwanted sun lounge? Good that you are involved in this brill project. Kind regards, Richard B

Hi Mick, Strange, I have built a number of (various) HL gearboxes and have never had a brass spacer that just slides on to the shaft. I could open out the bore with a broach I guess and then it would. The benefit of a push fit is that it locates the shaft and gear without the (suspect) use of glue to stop the shaft from dropping out of the gearbox housing. The motor is indeed one of the HL Coreless Motors. I have found all versions very powerful (lots of torque) for their size. WRT meshing, again, I have never had a motor/gearbox that did not require some adjustment to set the mesh correctly. In this build, the 14BA washers are also "shortening" the set screws since as I mentioned, they are a little too long. As to fitting instructions for the motor, most of the HL instructions can be downloaded from their site. All in all, I have found HL gearboxes easy to assemble resulting in a usually smooth and silent gearbox. I have ordered Isinglass Drawing No 421 for the B16/1 and based on Pebbles comments above, once received I may wish that I had not started this build! The DJH kit can't be that bad can it? We shall see... Kind regards, Richard B

And on to the Highflier gearbox, which, went together very easily. The only tricky part being pressing on the brass spacer to the Stage 1 shaft. The spacer is chamfered at one end and this should be the end offered to the shaft. I use a fairly large drill vice (soft jaws) to press the shaft onto the spacer and then tap it the last mm or two with a small "toffee" hammer. The gearbox frame is fairly strong but you need to be gentle with this process. Given the width of the frames, both the gearbox and frame 1/8 inch bearings need to be filed back so that the gearbox will fit between the frames. Close up of the worm, drive end of the gearbox The motor end of the gearbox You will need to remove a fair amount around the motor securing holes in the gearbox frame to achieve the correct worm/axlegear mesh. Removing this material requires 14BA washers to be used to ensure motor security. The set screws supplied with the motor were also a little too long. Kind regards, Richard B

60514 looks rather smart ex Doncaster (?) but for how long? Looking forward to the Station Road images. Kind regards, Richard B

The wheels and axles arrived at the weekend so chassis placed in the jig for alignment. Slightly slackened off chassis post set screws to align and then nipped up when satisfied. I should add that I repositioned chassis so that it was square before tightening up the set screws! Wheels are early Romford/Markits type but they should look fine when painted and weathered. This is a budget build! I hope to complete it for around £150. Kind regards, Richard B

Many thanks for the drawing reference, will order tomorrow. Ah well, I shall do my best to correct as many of the errors as possible by scratch building if necessary. Kind regards, Richard B