30368

I have now cleaned up all the filler and "flash" painted the firebox area to show up any areas that required further filler. Looks fairly good now. I have been working on the cab area to check how drastic the changes to the V2 backhead will be. PS - Does anyone make an LNER verticle reverser casting? Cab sides have been tacked in place. I have used 0.5mm brass wire for the cab edge beading. LNER engines have very pronounced beading on tender and loco compared to, say, the SR. The V2 backhead sides were cut away and the edges filed back until the width and profile was correct for the V4. In this image, the etched cab floor is almost ready for fitting. I will use brass sheeting to cover the gaps left by removing the firebox sides from the casting. Very pleased with the look of the cab edging. Just noticed that the body has not been fitted to the chassis correctly! Kind regards, Richard B

As always, wonderfully weathered locomotives. My favourite being picture one of Diamond Jubilee. Just first class and I agree Gilbert, Timara's work transforms the flat surface that most proprietary locomotives are finished in. Kind regards, Richard B

Like most model railways, 70D is a work in progress..... I spend too much time building loco's..... The building. The fitter's and boilersmith's corner. If I recall, the brake block's are Modelu - I will buy some more they look effective, whilst the piece of red wire insulation does not. More standpipes to fit. Two close ups of the fitter's bay - worked here for a few days in 1964-5(?) sorting out a failed Class 33 or Crompton as we then called them. Traction motor nose suspension bearing failure. As I mentioned, keep up the good work and thanks. Kind regards, Richard B

Many thanks for these excellent images. Love the 500 and the Bertone 105 Alfa. My 1996 GTV is knocking on the door of a classic Pininfarina design. It look better with each passing year! Kind regards, Richard B

Hi Chris, Lovely picture of your family. I have bought some of your excellent stuff for the fitters workshop in my model of 70D. First class kit and when I get to populating the shed and Basingstoke Station, I shall order much more of the little people and their bits and bobs. Keep up the really good work and thanks, Richard B

Alas my firebox template was a bit short leaving a gap between firebox and footplate so I had to insert a section on each side. I thought I might wait until filler had been applied and smoothed down to the correct profile before showing any images. However, in my experience, when scratch building, mistakes happen, so I thought I would update you in "warts and all" style. The gap is very apparent in this image. The two 5 thou brass sections will be soldered between the boiler and the firebox leading edge forming the compound curve created by Gresley's wide firebox design. The brass sections above have been soldered in position and filler applied but not yet cleaned up. Looks a bit of a mess! Bag of goodies arrived from Paul at PDK kits all needed to complete the build. Thanks Paul, great service. Kind reagrds, Richard B

Phil, I share, to some extent, your love of shiny brass, but only in connection with little locomotives. In contrast, I find the love of shiny horse brasses, suspect, if not downright dangerous. Perhaps I need therapy (good band by the way) too? Really like the work you are doing on your layout in, what I assume, is the loft? Great work. Kind regards, Richard B

Another approach I have used is the application of Micro Sol "Red" solution - this is designed to soften decals so that they conform to surface imperfections, for example, rivet heads. If this is applied very carefully to the loco number and then stroked with a stiff brush the decals can be removed. A second application may be required and keep it away from lining. I discovered this during my early use of Micro Sol were I ruined what I had already applied. Kind regards, Richard B

Cab spectacle plate soldered in position and leading and trailing pony trucks made up and fitted. I have taken a good few pictures of the firebox wrapper since this is largely scratch building. Tapered boiler ring soldered - template supplied is spot on. To assist alignment and soldering of taper to the parallel section of the boiler I soldered some 5 thou brass strips inside the tapered section. Sorry about poor snap. It went together well but required a little filler as well. Using the excellent dawing supplied with the etches together with my Isinglass drawing (drg 4/400) I made a template up and then cut the firebox wrapper from 5 thou brass sheet since it requires some complex curves. The rest of the boiler is 10 thou sheet. "Rolling" the firebox wrapper. Template and wrapper. The template was offered up to the running plate/cab spec. to check fit and a little trimming was necessary. The brass was cut to Version 2.0 of the template. I have decided to use Markits boiler washout plugs so the wrapper had to be marked out for these. This image shows the completed wrapper with washout plugs soldered in position (still two more per side for surface mounting, supplied with etch) and the various bolts etc that locate the wrapper to the firebox. Temp fit of firebox wrapper to the boiler. Looks fairly good I think. Still some more adjustment to the wrapper needed before it is soldered in position. Obviously the "firebox" that we see is nothing of the sort it is a sheet steel wrapper. Under this is the copper firebox and insulation. So to complete the firebox I need to make up four, perhaps six more parts. Firstly two more wrappers that cover the firebox front, these will be tricky since they have compound curves. Also the firebox foundation ring, and all its rivet heads, is visable just above the frame extensions. So I will have to make up a few parts of the firebox proper to complete the task. Kind regards, Richard B

Thanks Michael I intend to. Firebox template V1.0 complete so we shall see how that works out. KInd regards, Richard B

Made a start on the boiler assembly today. The smokebox and front two boiler rings are all parallel so that is where I started. This is the template, from the top is the tapered third ring, next is the smokebox inner and first two boiler rings and the piece of 10 thou brass is for this section. The last image on the template is the smokebox wrapper. THe front part sof the boiler and smokebox is now complete. I made two smokebox wrappers, 10 thou and the outer one is 5 thou brass sheet. As far as I can see from the images of the prototype, no snap rivets were used. Kind regards, Richard B

Sorry Clive, what a relief that is! Kind regards, 🤮 Richard B

Coupling rods on today. Probably tread water a bit now until the gearbox arrives. I'm not complaing I have only just ordered it! I would like to tackle the boiler and firebox soon as this is perhaps (for me) going to be the biggest challenge on this build. Whilst I had no real problems with the Judith Edge ex GCR B9 4-6-0, which also required me to roll a boiler and firebox*, this was a parallel boiler. We shall see! Kind regards, Richard B

Hi John, Until the H15 that I completed for Phil (Mallard60022), where I used very lightly applied frame dirt paint, all my weathering was based on powders. I have started to use aerosol cans for valve gear and underframes, very lightly applied, and then use powders to get the variation in colour and tone that is required. I also use vallejo washes on underframes to replicate oil stains. You can see this effect on the 30368's underframe and wheels. On loco bodies I generally use powders so that I can clean it off again to create the effect of loco cleaning leaving dirt/rust etc in all the nooks and crannies. Around running plate mounted lubricators I use washes. On inside cylindered loco's I use black washes on the underside of boilers to replicate all the oil thrown off the inside motion. Hope that helps John, give it a try. Kind regards, Richard B

I use Gibson wheels too Mike but these were very cheap and the older Markits wheels have deep flanges so some attention necessary, should have room for the brake hangers now. I have now soldered the running plate valances to the running plate. On the V4 these are fairly shallow making alignment tricky. I soldered the front section first, it gently curves inward. I then used hairclips to act as a heat sink for what I had just soldered and a second to locate the next section to solder. I worked back towards the cab. It went well and looks fine. If you are building one of these don't forget to punch all the tiny rivet detail marked on the valance etch. I should add that the running plate edge is "slotted" which makes location of the valance easier. I tried to use the minimum of solder because many of the crossmembers on the chassis locate on the running plate - still a little more cleaning up to do. The smokbox saddle front/back have been folder over too. Off to the garden now, Mrs B insists and who could blame her! Kind regards, Richard B

Hi Phil, Yes agree completely, first class etches and Michael is always ready to help out. Final update for today. A set of secondhand 23mm Markits wheels fitted or rather a set of modified 23mm wheels fitted. Rather like my H15 builds, the space between, particularly middle and trailing wheels, is very limited with little room for brake hangers so the wheel flanges were reduced by mounting them on an axle very securely and placing them in a pillar drill to remove flange material by a file. The wheel flanges are still effective but there is just enough space for the hangers. The motion bracket also needs to be reduced since it is designed for EM and 00 scales. I use a series of wooden dowls and, as here, bits of tube to bend running plates and boilers. Best to take is very slowly and keep checking profiles. The running plate temp fitted to the chassis. I had a spare High Level Road Runner gearbox that I hoped would do but the motor would not clear the top of the frames so a HiFlier is on order. Kind regards, Richard B

Clive, This must be an AI creation! This has to be an elaborate Capitalist Paper Tiger plot to overthrow the wonderful workers paradise that is North Korea! Is it real? I have not had such a good laugh for ages, even Mrs B fell about laughing. Brill stuff Sir. Another way of looking at it is that the North Korean's have a very sophisticated sense of humour, perhaps there is hope? Kind regards, Richard B

The rear pony truck has been assembled, I added brass bearings to aid smooth running. I then focused on the rear frame extensions that supports the firebox and cab. My plan was to located these critical components in the mainframe slot behind the trailing driver by fitting a beam in the slot which would protrude beyond the mainframe (and be the mounting point of the curved plate support for the firebox to be found on all LNER wide firebox locomotives). The frame extensions, which also have a slot in, could then be positively located at the mainframe end. Before proceeding, one final shot of 30368 now it is weathered. When I grow tired of the look I will clean the loco with cotton buds. To return to the K4, this image shows the pony truck and the two frame extensions you can just make out the slots in the mainframe and in the extensions. I have soldered the beam to the mainframe slot and offered up the L/H frame extension ready for soldering. Remember what I said earlier about Judith Edge kits being closer to building a real locomotive, this image reinforces that view. Solder still to clean up a bit more. Kind regards, Richard B

Hi Michael. Thanks for the "watching brief", much appreciated. Yes that's right solid chassis. Kind regards, Richard B

I have taken Phil's advice and emailed Paul at PDK to order all the castings I will need and requested a V2 backplate and B1 smokebox door both of which will need some adapting. Meanwhile I have started frame construction. One thing I like about the Judith Edge kits is the feeling that since the etches are so accurate it is very close to building a full size loco but easier to handle.... The etches don't include any EM/00 crossmembers, I confirmed this with Michael and he sensibly suggested using spare brass spacers protemp. This I did when the frames were in the frame jig. Instead of drilling holes in the frames I clamped the frames to the three spacers as shown. I added a 0-5mm washer to the spacer to ensure the frame width was to drawing. I could now fit the frame parts (motion bracket, cylinder front and back etc.) to the frames, first ensuring that they were central, and then solder. Further frame bracing will be necessary. From the back, the running plate support bracket, the motion plate, the cylinder back and lastly the cylinder front all soldered in position. Hope it is ok so far Michael? Kind regards, Richard B.

I have to confess, I should be moving on with Phase 2 of my 70D layout but I'm afraid I have decided instead to build up my Judith Edge V4 2-6-2 kit purchased a few years ago. Why? well it will be a challenge having to roll from brass sheet my first taper boiler and I like challenges and second the A1 Loco Trust next project after the P2 is to build the third V4. The V4 etches are first class but do require a fair amount of scratch building too. Anyone know where I might get a suitable smokbox door and, less likely, a firebox backplate? I am using a High Level coreless motor and gearbox. Decided to give one of my Merchant Navy Pacifics a run. 35009, the last one to receive a modified cab, runs past Basingstoke Shed - something from another planet really compared to the worn out ancient Drummond collection on shed at the time. The MN's must have seemed like space ships alongside the many ex LSWR locos that were their contemporaries. The model is a PDK kit built by me some 5-6 years ago. Kind regards, Richard B

I couldn't agree more 31A, David's model of Haymarket is really first class as are his loco weathering techniques and photography. I shall miss it greatly, like you I hope that it goes to a "good home" so that we can all see how things develop. Kind regards, Richard B

Now that I have finished my (PDK) model of 700 class 0-6-0 30368, I thought I would add a few snaps to this thread. Phil (Mallard60022) gave me the just started PDK kit since he could see little point in building it up given the Hornby model, besides he is very busy on building his model of the LSWR Main Line a bit further west than Basingstoke, where 30368 is pictured. Phil's H15, that I completed for him, is in the background. Kind regards, Richard B

I have now completed 30368. I really enjoyed building my version of a locomotive that I saw most mornings on my way to school and then on Eastleigh scap line shortly after starting my apprenticeship at Eastleigh Works. The loco runs very well and the tender pick-up arrangement work well, a first for me, tender pick ups I mean not something working well! 30368 as she would have appeared following her last overhaul at Eastleigh. She has the second BR insignia on the tender and she had lost the triangular Dubb's builders plates. The images on this side of the loco had the flash suppressed. I rather like this image, one of my better snaps. It won't take Basingstoke long to get the "Pride of Basingstoke" mucky but to be fair, they cleaned her too. My thanks go to Phil (Mallard60022) for donating the PDK kit, I am very pleased with the result. Kind regards, Richard B

Thanks for the images LNER4479 really great and much appreciated. Kind regards, Richard B