Lacathedrale

Yes, if you want one.

A trap or catch point is one which unlike a normal point does not route traffic to a usable siding, but is rather used to derail stock should it run away towards a passenger carrying line. This is a board of trade requirement for any connection to a running line AFAIK.

Yes, I meant to say that Streamline curved points are fine but Setrack are a no-no. I would also consider removing the headshunt in the far bottom left - too many zig-zags for it to be fun IMO. Just a siding behind the platform (loading dock?) would be sufficient. I fundamentally disagree that you need a separate headshunt for 'more interest' unless as Flying Pig says, some desire for watching trains go around in circles is desired. In the real world goods trains would need to shunt out of the way of passenger trains. Working signals for entry into the platforms and the single line sections beyond could add interest. Getting the goods train safely in a siding before running a passenger train through could add interest. Detaching head or tail traffic from a clockwise train for pickup by an anticlockwise train could add interest. Using a platform road as a siding for an inglenook game could add interest.

IMO no need for a separate shunting neck for the goods yard for a station this size. You could model a trap point if it wanted to properly represent how the prootype would have done things. Removing the shunting neck, maybe it would be possible to shift the station's two R/H turnouts (the double track entry and the goods yard entry) counter-clockwise with the use of curved turnouts to give you a) a longer goods yard, and b) longer platforms

Yes, I think I'm going to give up on the idea of using a grooving tool for the railhead recess - at least for now - the sled gauges are sufficient. I've also grabbed a piece of 0.8mm x 6mm brass strip and chemically blackened it with Casey's Brass Black (in order that it's not solder-able) that I will be able to use as a sliding flangeway gauge. I'm still waiting on the 0.8mm check rail chairs from the EMGS, but in theory should be able to get started on some track laying soon. I must ask, since I already have a P4 B7 sitting on my workbench, whether I can simply cut away the check rail chairs from the ties and re-gauge and glue them? I'm assuming so. The vee and wing rails are setup with functional styrene chairs, so I assume too those can be gently sliced away and re-sited? It'll probably only ever end up on a test plank but it would be nice to have something in EM-SF ready to test!

Are you looking to offer that warehouse model in your shop?

In my own part of the world the Caterham branch had numerous examples of stations with 'ahead' sidings and no runarounds - an electric power station and gasworks spring to mind. I think like any red-blooded englishman I enjoy freight wagons, particularly odd 19th century ones - but realistically I think that mandates something other than the 'compact, passenger oriented terminus' theme I've been working to, so far. The layout theme of intensive passenger operations has always been at the forefront, and the general plan for "Belle Sauvage" (i.e. my interpretation of Holborn Viaduct in around 1899) has always realistically been set around the turn of the 20th century. With its central location it can host SER and LCDR urban, suburban, coastal and boat trains - but also NPCS, cattle, fish and perishables from half a dozen pre-group companies that exchanged stock there. Maybe I am mistaken - I shall ask in the pre-group thread...

I decided to make a block gauge with flangeway prongs: I'm afraid my first attempt roller gauge has failed because I'm terrible at basic maths and grinding a 0.8mm grooving tool was harder than I thought! EDIT: I should clarify I did a bit of hand filing so the prongs are bow-shaped: width across their length is 0.8mm but tapers down in either corner because I'm terrible at hand filing :)

Hi guys, After seeing @t-b-g's embronic Sheffield Attercliffe at ExpoEM and the attendant discussions in the "Manchester EM" thread I'm looking to give EM-SF a try; specifically because it seems to meet my personal ask that the flangeway should be narrower than the railhead, but has less demand for perfection than P4. Not wishing to get into a gauge discussion, I think this might just reduce the inertia towards me ending up with a working layout! Anyway, with a lathe and milling machine I've got the tools to whip up some gauges, so I thought I'd document it here, and sanity check my dimensions. Roller Gauge - Brass round or hex as below: Note: The gauge is ultimately determined by the outside face of the rings. Though the railhead is depicted vertically, the 1mm gap is enough to accomodate the B/H railhead width inclined at 1:20. , the orange guide protrusions are optional (though the inner guide would be required for use as a check gauge) Block Gauge - The roller gauge could be replaced with a single block gauge of 18mm width and a nominal length and thickness. Flangeway Gauge - 0.8mm thick strip material, ideally stainless steel? B2B Gauge - Cylinder 16.5mm in length, 14mm in diameter, with an 8mm segment cutout : Note: I will be sourcing some 0.1mm shim washers and/or machining a 16.6mm gauge as per @martin_wynne's suggestion in the Manchester EM thread. As for wheels, my plan is to use Gibson/Ultrascale. Any thoughts before I apply tool to metal?

So hypothetically, were I to build some gauges for EM-SF I'd need in theory just the flangeway (0.8mm) and block gauges (18mm). I'd also want either a standard EM 16.5mm B2B gauge or make one of 16.6mm and in theory also a check rail gauge of 17.2mm? I've got a lathe and alot of spare bits of brass, so it could be a fun way to get the machining juices flowing again.

@Keith Addenbrooke there's already about a 2" sill where the door comes down?

Here's my little garage as it now stands: Clearly there's alot of work to be done, but I wonder how much needs to be done ahead of the model railway vs. general house improvement work over time? I guess the lighting (one single incandescent bulb) and running at least a couple more sockets in, and giving the thing a damned good clean is going to be first. Any other thoughts?

Right, Martin - I didn't mean there was literally nothing in it - I meant that looking at those two plans it's hard to tell visually :)

No changes to the design, but tweaked a little to curve the other way at the throat and 'cup' the loco pocket a little better. Last time I messed arund with curvature like this, I printed it off and pushed around my Lonestar locos on an N-scale template, so I think that's probably not a bad shout: Same as before, set on two 4'6 x 2' boards. For the sake of experimentation, in Manchester EM rather than P4. I keep wondering if HV as a prototype might be biting off more than I can chew - the track on a viaduct and many dozens of buildings to construct. Greenwich Park as inspiration would at least have a low retaining wall and embankment to eat up some of the space...

I had the pleasure of seeing this throat in the flesh at ExpoEM and honestly I'm quite thoroughly convinced! I'm going to soldier on with attempting a P4 compensated chassis, rather than immediately downing tools and starting over; but it feels like a bit of a no-brainer. Drawing up a Manchester EM and a P4 turnout in Templot there's almost nothing in it at all: Lovely stuff.

I got an oil wash on the Parry wagon and after buffing it out I'm quite pleased with it:

Maybe a case of over saturation/HDR/level tweaking for some photos?

I've got a 25w blue antex but I was getting annoyed at how often the tip would oxidise, just sitting there hot all the time - and the very heavy cord which was liable to drag it off the desk at any moment. I picked up a soldering station (and a set of tips) from Circuit Specialists on the recommendation in my thread - they appear to be just the same old re-badged chinese variable temperature units you see around, but so far it's done me good: https://www.circuitspecialists.eu/csi-premier75w-digital-temperature-controlled-solder-station-with-75w-soldering-iron

Well, the car is gone, and the garage is mine! New owner taking custody of "Bertie" As per discussion the plan is to have a layout space initially along one wall. My thoughts are to reserve a horizontal "layer" in the garage along all three brick walls between the heights of 4' and 7', with the layout surface mounted at about 4'6". Racks and shelving above for lightweight objects, bicycle and tub/tin storage below for paints, power tools, etc. Currently it's got light and power, but needs a good do over - I'm thinking that should be done before any layout work takes place. - Fit some proper lighting - Run some more power sockets around the room - Repaint the walls and ceiling - Do something with the oily, stained concrete floor? In my old place I had an epoxy coat poured but that was mega expensive...

@Nick Holliday the floor in my kit was etched and marked specifically Chatham Kits - so presumbly a generic one? Honestly as it's come together I've enjoyed the finished wagon and painting it very much, but the initial construction was very painful. Also, this was my first proper whitemetal wagon kit so that probably paid more of a role than the specifics of the kit. @burgundy is the POWSides transfer just the lettering, or also the grey of the wagon side? I'm not sure about getting a tonal match from a transfer - but not a bad option at all! EDIT: Just seen their website suggests all transfer production is on hold. Also £4 postage for a £7 transfer. Maybe I _WILL_ try hand lettering it after all? "LONDON" was surprisingly straight forward... Right now it's had the first coat of oil washes and I'll need to let it sort itself out for a couple of days before wiping it down. Rather than finish the LNWR horsebox or start on the high level chassis, I thought I would do another of the wagon kits - and I've just started the Prickly Pear SER Ballast Wagon - the moulding is super crisp, there is positive registration for the sides and ends, and comes with Evergreen V-groove sheet for the floor. It also comes with a bewildering array of coupling options - safety chains, double hooks, etc. How the rest of it goes together, time will tell...

EDIT: Ignore

I think at this point, I'm going to call it good and move on to the weathering: Given my repeated abject failures with varnish, I'm going to coat with Johnsons Klear AKA Pledge before oil washing, and then see if I can source a matt varnish aerosol from somewhere. Testors Dullcote was pretty good back in the day? Also, there's no way in hell I'm hand-lettering "Stephenson Clarke & Co Ltd. London" on the next one, despite my reservations I think it'll have to be a transfer!

Have I bottled the LNWR Horsebox because I'm scared to line it and muck the whole thing up? Yes I have. In the meantime, the Parry P.O. wagon is together and is starting to look like a wagon. I'm afraid my first real efforts at hand lettering leave much to be desired, but I'm only going to get better by practising so better started now than never: I still need to add the drop shadow to the lettering and give it a healthy oil wash. I'm really impressed with the cast details - the angled washer plates running on the inside of the wagon and then shown through the floor to the outside of the solebars, the various bolts, etc. - but so many problem sto get the rest of the way: - Aforementioned floor issue - Whitemetal brake v-hanger completely useless and snapped off in a stiff breeze, and no brake lever or ratchet bracket supplied (etched replacements from S4 store) - Ridicolously undersized cast drawbar plates (ditto) - Cast brake blocks for an 8'6" wheelbase instead of the 8' as here so required lots of filing back to fit. - Spring castings aren't the correct width to align with the bolts and (imagined) timbers on the solebar, and needed to be split and re-worked to permit the rocking axle to rock. Given the accuracy elsewhere I'm most unhappy with this, but we need stock for a layout, not a display cabinet...

Argh! I think I've had it up to my eyeballs with these two kits! I got the ends and the ends together plumb and square with the floor in - only to find out that the casting for the solebars and dumb-buffers don't fit! Turns out, you DO need to put the ends inside the sides - but if you do that, then the floor doesn't fit! The corner washer plates did look strange- but I figured that this must be some particular strange setup for this wagon. Since this is the only way the items used (so far) fit together. Honestly, I'm not sure how you're meant to know that with the ambiguity of the instructions and the fact that the etched floor supplied with the kit is the wrong size. Swing and a miss. Good job I've got superglue debonder. With the floor trimmed it's back together the proper way around, but gosh - that was annoying. With the floor trimmed 2.5mm to fit between the headstocks, the alignment lines for the W-irons are now out - but since there is no positive alignment for them anyway, no big deal!

Well, the extra bearings went in but there's no change at all to the "brakes-full-on" behaviour of the vehicle - the wheels all turn and aren't jammed or binding, but are the exact opposite of free wheeling and the wagon needs to be on a 1:5 incline before it starts to roll: I have not really enjoyed this build at all and it has not resulted in a useful bit of stock. To try to recoup some of my mojo I cracked open the Chatham Kits "Parry" P.O. wagon. "Ft the ends to one side and then add the floor in and the other side. ends on, then fall off ends on, one upside down ends on, floor doesn't fit because they are meant to be outboard of the sides ends on outboard of the sides, floor doesn't fit because it needs to fit UNDER the sides. Definitely time to do something else completely.