Lacathedrale

Loco address and time? All of these look pretty much how I expected them to look, thank you all!

Lovely - but those are dependent on internal rather than external bearings, which is a good deal more common in 0 than 4mm?

I've got a milling machine, is there any reason why I couldn't use a V-cutter to create grooves rather than semicircular cut-outs?

I deal with computers and development all day, every day - I'm not interested in that being part of my pastimes also, so while I was an early adopter of DCC I want my next layout to be as tactile as possible. I'm thinking: Gaugemaster Dual, H&M Duette, etc. and using signals to route power between the tracks and relevant controller. However, it has been highlighted to me that this is going to add considerable wiring complexity that DCC can avoid entirely. The only problem is, every DCC controller I've tried is like a 90's VCR controller with or without ZX spectrum rubberised buttons, a bright blue LED backlit screen, giant curvy plastic housing, etc. I would prefer something wired, with two controllers. I would prefer not to have to sod around with PC connectivity. Before I write it off DCC entirely, are there any suggestions? I've tried Prodigy/Gaugemaster and a Roco Maus with Digikeijs DR5000.

Yes, I would like to use the same jig for 00, EM, S, etc. My reference for shims was incase there was too much slop. I generally don't deal with floating solebars, mostly W-iron units.

Hi Dave, That makes alot of sense, I'm not very au fait with railways north of the border, to my shame. I do like the deep CR blue and have thought that it might make a nice scratchbuilding project one day, buy your layout is so closely linked with the CR that I would feel quite awkward in imitation! Cheers,

Thanks both, that makes alot of sense. So in theory I could use the 00 gauge if I had the relevant shim material for the wider gauges?

Brassmasters have said their 00 gauge 'doesn't work' with EM and P4 - I can't figure out why and have asked - but does anyone have any insight why this might be?

I don't know - I've got two of them and although I'm obviously an imbecile it seems to be the same curve geometry as the turnout?

The SEF chassis may have the correct wheelbase, but the print I've got is designed for the Jinty wheelbase. It's going in the drawer for now. @Regularity has suggested a Brigand-class 0-4-2 might be a good shout, and so if the mood strikes me I'm inclined to agree. For now I'm working on my Gauge 3 live-steam traction engine build, but I finally got around to putting some undercoat on my Victorian LBSCR D8 covered wagon: The shape of the brake block is wrong, but honestly I'm OK with that! I'm going to try to use my airbrush on this one to get some variety of colour over it. We'll see how that pans out...

While reading the Brighton to Coulsdon North: A Signalling Perspective book for hints on how to signal this layout, I idly glanced over the diagrams for Brighton, and I found this cheeky little snippet of P8, 9 and 10 - and the headshunt into the Loco works. Flipped 180 degrees, it looks a bit familiar doesn't it? Funnily enough, those platforms would have been primarily for the use of the East Coastway, which is the exact premise for which Brighton Victoria as a standalone station was propositioned as. Maybe it's a bit like the old Waterloo station before rebuilding with disparate and disconnected concourses/etc. ? I believe the above diagram dates from the installation of colour light signalling so much of the signalling complexity is removed (!), but there were three boxes with lots of slotting and interlocking going on so I'm fairly happy with the idea of 'my' box handing over routing to the Coastway or BML to the North/Montpelier Jct box. The bottom siding in the above photograph is roughly where my carriage sidings are - in this diagram it's the headshunt into the Loco works - which was small enough to fit two locos and that's all. Here's a lovely atmospheric shot (at a much later date), maybe some inspiration for the 'loco ready siding' at the rear of the layout?

Good morning all, I have purchase the track and am awaiting baseboards for my 00 gauge LBSCR Edwardian terminus layout (see the Pre-Grouping forum if you'd like to know more). Conceptually, it is a "Brighton, Lewes and Hastings Railway" station that was built alongside the original L&BR station in Brighton, instead of (as in reality) being incorporated. The following is a plan generously drawn up by Regularity - and I wanted to confirm the signalling arrangements before I get stuck in with ordering bits and pieces from Wizard. Here is the unadorned track plan, based originally on Minories but subsequently amended and coincidentally not looking all that different to P8/9/10 at Brighton in the Edwardian era) Note: The 'turntable road' is as yet just a head-shunt siding, maybe the Victorian 50' turntable has been filled in? I would like to get an authentic signalling layout in place, so I have been swotting up on reading "Brighton to Coulsdon North: A Signalling Perspective". From that I can gather both home and starter signals had ringed signals for calling-on and shunt-ahead respectively, and the wide usage of S&F kit. My thoughts are For up signals: P1 - Single post, Starter & Shunt signal P2 & P3 - Balanced Bracket, Starter & Shunt signal for both platforms Advanced Starter & Distant on the Up main, one 'standard train length' way from the throat For down signals: A red shunt signal on the up main for shunting moves back into the station A gantry showing (left to right): Shunt signal to Carriage Siding Shunt signal to Loop Home & Calling-On Signals to P3, P2, P1 For station-signals: Ground-frame release and no signals for loop crossover or produce dock Red ground signal for carriage siding exit Yellow ground signal for loop exit Red ground signal for turntable road exit Red ground signal for loco ready spur I appreciate that the starters and homes could both live in the gantry but I think I'm already going to be finding it quite difficult to manage it as it stands, let alone with double-sided and double the number of arms! Brighton (admittedly much larger) had one box controlling the platform starters and another for the routing through the approach lines, so I'm taking that approach. By my count I need: A stop signal on one post with a shunt arm A stop/distant signal on one post A bracketed two-arm stop signal with two shunt arms Five ground signals A gantry with five shunt signals and three stop signals So, before I go about delving into Wizard models catalogue, is that about right?

Have a free 'like' for the mention of Harveys 👍 Lovely wagon. I think the major issue for kits is how long lived they are - kits from the 1960's rubbing shoulders with modern (ish) kits makes a sharp contrast. Certainly the 'new old stock' Cooper Craft wagons I built that still had HD coupling types included was a bit of a shock.

Yeah I was thinking selfishly about washer plates and solebar detail on scratchbuilds and the hint of texture is definitely worthwhile. i.e. the two wagons in this shot: If it were more controlled that would make sense. Balcombe /Ouse Viaduct is a wonderful layout, awesome to know somebody who is involved!

I figured it was probably a good idea to trial fit the High-Level Jinty chassis to the Vectis SER R-class body. Turns out, it's a bit of a failure. The inside edge of the footplate under the boiler, and the tanks overlap the chassis stretchers. I was given a handy reminder of the fragility of resin trying to carve that away to fit. The EM chassis spacers I have used mean that the chassis itself is too wide to fit in the gap provided in the body, so I would need to carve away and re-build the entire underside. I'm not actively pursuing an EMSF layout presently, and if I were it would be LCDR rather than SER and so the locomotive only notionally compatible. With that, the above, and the existing chassis challenges has meant my enthusiasm for this particular build has hit rock bottom. It's all going back in the proving drawer and may not return. I am strongly considering re-gauging the Victorian EMSF stock for use on the Edwardian 00 layout, and to tackle my kit and scratchbuilding itch for Victoriana in some other way.

Really lovely stuff! I had used rocket card glue, but I think gel superglue for bolt heads has got to be a better shot. I tried the old 'slice up 10 thou round styrene rod and apply' and I felt like I was going to go mad!

Thanks chum! I was flipping through an old RM and saw 'kelvinbank signal box' drawn up for scratchbuilding in card and ply and I thought, "Hey - I've seen that name somewhere before..."

The drawers also lock, so that'd be four replacement locks - probably worth using the bureau for firewood and buying a new one with how much that'd cost!

Stephenson & Co Wagon #243 complete (sans powder and coupling links): It fought me the whole way and I didn't enjoy it one bit, but it's done. Paint was all Vallejo - neutral grey mixed with pale sand (as all my colours are) for the body. Red leather for the corner washer plates, heavy charcoal for the solebar down. For this model I experimented a little with my oil technique, instead of pin-washing, I slathered it on as if it were undiluted acrylic - this meant a stronger tint but far fewer visible brush strokes to buff out later. Rather than a cotton bud I used a dry tissue with scrub the sides and inner. The inside was a mixture of German Camo Brown and Neutral Grey - it looks completely wrong on the palette but came out well. my thought for using a darker mix than my usual Pale sand was that the coal dust would have really worked into the wood and would be very dark indeed almost from the get-go. Eagle eyed among you may notice the brake V-hanger is cranked rather than a straight Vee - that's because the original is part of the solebar casting and I snapped it off completely. I decided to avoid the debacle of a whitemetal brake lever and rack and used one from the Cooper Craft O5 kits.

Thanks Gareth, the kit was cobbled together with a trimmed floor/etc. and while unsprung appears to roll well. As I said - last time I'm doing one! I think the real quantum leap is going to come from locomotive scratchbuilding, that really is the next thing I want to tackle...

Ah, darn - I've put cross-rods across the v-hangers of both wagons! I'll have to sort that out! No big deal, I need to repaint the solebars of the first wagon also, as well as get some muck on there with weathering powders. For now, I'm desperately trying to finish the Stephenson Clarke wagon so I can forget it ever existed :)

The GER frequently ran cattle trains into Hither Green, which were then sorted back up the line into London. They also ran a frequent service over the ELR into New Croydon. But, @Compound2632 has happily linked the thread with such interesting revelation.

Ergh - After I built the first whitemetal wagon kit of the Parry wagon I realised it wasn't going to be something I enjoyed making - but foolishly I had picked up four whitemetal kits at the same time before I discovered the fact. It seem to be entirely the fault of the Roxey/Chatham floor and W-irons - the floor simply doesn't fit being both too wide and too long, and the rocking W-iron's can't rock because there are no corresponding cutouts in the inner faces of the soleobars. I figure for this one I'll just build it rigid rather than trying to fight so hard to get it compensated and with this one down, it leaves just the SER coal wagon left and then I don't think I'll be touching another whitemetal kit for some time.

Thanks, requested an order for the Brassmasters one along with some copper chain for my three-links (it seems the Carpet Monster has craved significant sacrifices)

Is there an obvious jig/etc. that I can use to align pairs axles when they are inserted into W-iron assemblies, in order to fix those W-irons parallel to each other? I'm thinking specifically of those kits which have loose irons rather than those which are tab/slot located - i.e. the Woodham Wagon Works kit I'm working through presently. I have managed this by eye using scribed lines in the past, but it feels like a simple fold down jig with parallel slots of standard axle spacings would make alot of sense? I'm sure i've seen something like this knocking around but I can't think of where. Cheers!