Lacathedrale

I keep looking at the Hepton Wharf trackplan - I don't have the track plan handy, but the second shot in this post of a layout using the same plan is fairly illustrative: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/122023-queensbridge-road-wharf/&do=findComment&comment=2692227 In the original, the nearside siding runs alongside a canal and into a goods shed, and the middle siding off the loop ends in a cobbled yard. The exit to the right is masked with closed crossing gates and some houses, and to the left by a girder bridge and steep cutting. The layout itself is super compressed but lovely and quaint. On one hand, I think that something that's just touching the edge between curated and twee works well for cameo and micro layouts like this (the original was around 6' all in, and I happen to have 90% of the components and track for a 2mm equivalent in less than 4'). I don't know if it would have the same effect if it were twisted to an urban or industrial setting (my first thought was as a gasworks!), though I'm quite sure that the freight-only nature of the setting ensures the compression isn't too obvious - little docks, warehouses and cranes betray far less than station platforms 20' long...

Beyond the crossover above, I've got a single separate turnout completed and working fine other than the dodgy tie-bar/switchblade configuration. Is there any issue with desoldering the switchblades and re cutting/filing/fitting. a new set (in terms of physically being able to align/gauge them) - it seems like I could use a combo of roller and button gauges for the curved closure rail, and then a judicious use of the 3-point gauge for the straight closure rail. Is that correct?

Hi Nick, I saw this on the 2mm society front page and I didn't realise you were a member here too - I just wanted to relay what a pleasure it is to watch it all come together, and it has inspired me to give 2mm another go. All the best,

Got the Karau book and crikey, it's just wonderful. If I had not seen the dog-leg with an engine shed on one side and a gas works siding on the other, I wouldn't have believed it

I know that I can head out to ebay and buy a dozen needle files for a few pounds, but I'm starting to see where problems with the tools I'm using - too blunt, too coarse, too brittle, etc. and so was wondering where one goes, or what one looks for? I'm talking about sub 1mm drill bits, a file for filing track vees in 2mm and 4mm scale, etc. - just got no idea where to find stuff that won't immediatelly go bad. For ex. I've seen drillbits which have a big shank and small diameter ?

A few month's later and with some kind encouragement I'm back at it: A crossover, with a very gentle curve (this was taken through my magnifier which is why it looks a bit distorted). I was inspired by Nick Mitchell's build of the 2mm Jubilee chassis (see 2mm.org.uk) and his methodical approach. I realised that in my previous efforts I had made mistakes or assumptions and those were what were tripping me up - cutting the pegs too short on the easitrack tie bar joints, using a three point gauge on the curved turnout route, etc. etc.and not leaving enough plain track either side of the turnouts for smooth transitions. Put an order in for a switch blade filing jig, a proper jig for the easitrack tie bars and some under-layout actuating units.

Gosh, OK - sounds like a challenge but I guess if I just tack the closure rail section of the switch blade then if I make a right pig's ear of it can remove and try again. Thank you!

That is most helpful, thank you - It looks like an amazing unit. It seems the association 1-100 under-baseboard operating unit while certainly more pricey than your example may provide a reasonable intermediate solution while I get my eye in (tho these 3D printed ones are >£4 each, any test plank is going to be small enough for this to be swallowed fairly easily). It does seem to operate at a distance though, so I imagine an easitrac turnout bar would be required to keep things aligned at track level? Do you solder the wires for the tie bar to the switch-blades ahead of time, or while they are in-situ? I see the jig on the easitrack turnout construction page but the only reference to it on the shop appears to be an item you can't buy (1-176).

25m long with three stanchions means four sections of 6.25m - which jives with my google mapping and guesstimation (I assumed the rooflights would be central to each section, and there are four rooflight areas of five 1m^2 panels each. Shame that 12.8mm/m doesn't have the same ring as 4mm/ft as it would make this building alot easier Starting to wish that I'd checked out Peco Bullhead before I got involved with the EM escapades to be honest, the below shows just how close it really is: I tipped over my bottle of flux onto the dining table and so while that dries out I literally ran some trains, in an oval, in the carpet. In my defense I had never actually seen either of my EMUs running. The more I think about it, the more I reckon that the attic (as opposed to the garage/shed/office) is the best place for a permanent layout. Bright, temperate (except in the very coldest and hottest of days), mostly finished - and the wife never goes up there

Ah understood - makes alot of sense. The first few I did, I snipped the rail right up against the PCB sleepers, so there was a step - but what you say makes perfect sense.

Hi buddy - I used Google Maps to measure it in-situ and it came out to 25m. I think it makes sense to do a quick mock up either way - I don't want it to dominate the scene. Here's some peco flex against the point I was building - very close! The shadows underneath the Peco skew the view somewhat, but really very very close:

I was always going to build on a work board, but just wanted to make sure that I don't get myself into a sticky corner by soldering bits together without doing the preparatory work ahead of time. Izzy, if you don't use central holes for operating your pin-type tie bars, how DO you operate them? Mark, I'm using an all-soldered construction on my turnouts, so I don't think I can use thicker PCB for the tie bar, unless I fit it in situ with a corresponding gap in the roadbed to permit it? This is how far I've got so: I'm happy to gap the PCB after I've soldered it all up, but with regard to this conversation around tie-bars, is there anything special I need to do? Top-left is my only surviving turnout with a the blades soldered directly to the PCB sleeper.

When you say you formed a transition, what do you mean? A slice of card under the pcb? bending the rails up at the end?

Thanks Izzy, so if I understand correctly for your pin method is to: Drill a hole under the middle of the tie bar location to account for the actuating wire Complete the turnout in-situ as normal Drill a PCB sleeper in the centre, and at a 7.5mm gauge, then slice away some of the copper around the top of the holes to use as a tie bar Feed track pins from underneath and cut/grind down to 0.5mm above the PCB Solder the switch blades to the tip of the pins to make them 'captive' to the pcb tie bar Feed the actuating wire through the centre hole Is that about right? My issue at the moment hasn't so much been that they break, it's that once I'm at the stage where everything is soldered down I find tweaking/troubleshooting basically impossible.

So yesterday I spoke to Hattons and said I had trouble recieving packages in the past, that I had a number of orders messed up from them. Requested the agent confirm that if I ordered at 11am I would recieve the components today - was advised this was the case. Package delivered, only contains flex track - no turnouts, no rail joiners, no sets of buffers. Sigh.

Those look gorgeous - I'm envious of your ability to fit so much detail - my eye just gets lost when I try to replicate such a profusion of gubbins

Whilst waiting for my track to be delivered, I whipped up a 3D model of the gravel shed at Ardingly that will balance the scenics on the layout - the concrete base is around 30' wide and 80' long. I've estimated the opening aperature to be 12' wide and 15' tall. The interior framing I've guesstimated at 9" x 4" girders based on the photos provided by SED Freightman (here: https://imgur.com/a/OvHsfqf ) Luckily (and probably intentionally, given the mundane and practical nature of construction) everything is standard in dimension - 80' long with 20' between girders/rooflight holes, etc. Other prototype pics show telegraph/electrical wires, oil drums, a deck chair, portacabin and various other detritus - so that should be a pretty cool structure.

Hi Ian, to be honest I enjoy it alot, I've just realised that an appropriate sidestep for Godstone Rd was needed because I want to experience the whole gamut of the hobby rather than have this be another benchwork-trackwork cul-de-sac. I found this thread and really like it: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/544-southern-region-photos-1980s/page-6 I'm torn whether to model with NSE branding at the station - those curved steel benches, red/white and navy blue everywhere like this shot across the platforms at Clapham Junction (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/544-southern-region-photos-1980s/page-11&do=findComment&comment=1014983) or the much more subdued look a-la Purley Oaks in this shot: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/544-southern-region-photos-1980s/page-6&do=findComment&comment=641932 - I don't think I'll go as far as to have a grassy station platform and wooden fencing though, never saw that anywhere - even if it does look lovely. Something like Selsdon (adjacent to Purley) seems a little bit TOO decrepit (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/544-southern-region-photos-1980s/page-16#entry1970617). Lots of shots with 33's and 73's with interesting short trains: Single BGs and/or GUVs, one or two HEAs, a single BSK I'm struck by how much semaphore signalling was still around, would there have been a mixture or would a station have switched over in one fell swoop?

it looks like you're using plain PCB track for your turnouts, and Easitrack for your straight-ways - how are you handling the transition in height?

Before I try my next piece of 2FS track, I want to know how to handle the tie bar. So far, it's been my kryptonite. I've used PCB, but found that any adjustments to the rail alignment causes it to desolder and then I have been soundly unable to get a clean joint back together. Any ideas? I've done (and think I will continue to) soldered PCB track. The method used on the easitrack turnouts worked (or rather, it would have done if I didn't snip the pegs off too close to the bottom of the switchblade tabs.

Every time I go to work I lean over onto where this depot sat to see if I can find anything new. So far: nothing! The quadrilateral roof panels must have been a huge pain - look great though!

Well, erm, I think? Except for the C&L order fiasco. And the EMGS membership delays. And the DCC system being lost in Germany. And the DCC controller being at-sea with a shop in Taunton. And a 10 month delay on wheels from Ultrascale. And that I will need to spend another £75 on jigs from the society, not to speak of the extra components. The very original post in this thread was: I've decided to take Mike's (and others) advice to heart, and do this in 00. Order placed with Hattons for bullhead track to the revised layout plan as above, to be delivered tomorrow. If I want to try my hand at hand-laying track on this layout, I will do it in 00-SF. I really do enjoy track laying and the watchmaker-style modelling of finescale, but the goal of this project was ALWAYS to have a layout done, far more than having 'the perfect layout'. There are just too many compromises involved in sourcing components and building each part with my limited spare time. I am also acutely aware that my capacity for frustration/patience ebbs and flows, and so far the EM and DCC side of this project has been a big drain there - given the issues still to be dealt with, it's too much friction and is killing my enthusiasm. My dabble in EM will chug along as a separate concern, maybe as suggested as a smaller micro/cameo-layout - but not as part of Godstone Rd.

Here's a slight revision. Like Beeching I have swung and 'rationalised' a little more - I just could not find any kind of justification for the 'gravel shed' line to connect to a headshunt accessed via a platform road. It was total caprice, and have killed my darling. Operationally it's not a big change, it just removes the ability for the loco to runaround (I can't see any examples of gravel sheds with this as an operational requirement). Also, a catch point ahead of TR227: Martin W did some AMAZING work with sweeping lines of trackwork on the templot forum which I can't hope to emulate, but I have asked if I could possibly impinge on his good will.

That power car looks great. Talk of the motors, I gather if you were using DCC you'd just adjust CVs rather than wiring in diodes?

Hi Mike, You may be right, but I've never finished a layout anyway - even when they are as simple as an 00 gauge inglenook. So if this layout is due to fail, at least it won't be another inglenook to add to the proverbial pile. That said I do have a pair of spare modules (3' and 4' x 16") already built that I could put some kind of intermediate test-bed layout onto, but even with 'just' an inglenook and a runaround that's 4 turnouts and already half of all the pointwork on Godstone Rd. Suggestions happily taken, of course. All the best,