The Bigbee Line

I prefer smaller locos. So the 15 for me is an ideal size. What next..... I’m not sure to tell the truth. Let’s see what appears.

I always if you could apply long grass with a static grass applicator. Then use a hair trimmer to cut a swathe to rail level where the trains would have brushed it down. Or option 2, use a low height grass on the track area, then apply glue from the sleeper ends out and use longer strands.

I mounted them adjacent to the turnouts. I would like to use a three pin plug to let them serve different layouts.

Thanks for that. Depending on how I get on. I may replace the tiebars and close up the point blades for a better look.

SLU = Standard Length Unit = 21 feet

Thanks for that. It’s funny what you remember from childhood. I recall seeing the yellow engine shunting out of the works at Brighton. Never even got to Hayling Island when it was running.

The covers are still off as I’ve still to wire the switches. I’m looking to make a new top incorporating ramps at each end. I want to use the box at present for ease of fitting the switch. Later on the box could be removed and the switching done by a hex frog juicer that’s hiding somewhere....... Has anyone fitted an alternate tie bar?

As a newbie to O gauge and building a layout. My preferences would be for small 0-6-0 tender locomotives; SECR O1, GE J15, LBSC C2X, In that vein I purchased a Class 15 as it is a compact locomotive that wont look out of place with small trains.

Didn't do quite as much as expected tonight, but it's a hobby, not a job.... I did dig out my late mothers reading lamp, now an essential item for me... Both curved turnouts have homes. Just need to fill in the missing lengths of rail to the trap point... Finally tonights 'fly in the ointment'. The Peco reduction in width on the stock rail is a machined area with a really hard edge. When my test trucks are pushed through, the wheel catches the edge and makes the wagon jump. It needs some smoothing off. Maybe tomorrow....

Yes the paint was still wet.... nothing a bit of white spirit couldn't cure. I used some transparent plastic from a 'crystal wallet' to form a barrier, stopping the two boards from getting stuck together. Cutting the next section of ply for the sub roadbed for the joint. I use the camera on my phone as an alignment tool. Here is the first go... As usual there are tools that hide when needed. In this case I could not find one of my many razor saws. So improvisation stepped into play. Using a small but sharp file to file into the rail on all four sides I was able to snap off and fettle the end, ready for action. Here filing the rail... Ready to snap.... After a quick fettle with the file, ready to fit.. I had to use 1/2 length fishplates to get the sleepers at the right spacing.. In a minute I'm going to wire the second turnout and pin it in place. The four sleepers between the turnouts will be drilled and countersunk to take brass countersunk screws. When screwed down, the short lengths of rail will be cut at the join when the razor saw comes out of hiding

Star Celebrity.......... Hmmmmmm

As mentioned the other day, when I looked at the pictures of some of my rail joints I noticed that the alignment left something to be desired... On Wednesday night I had the opportunity to check out a few rail joints in a work location. I was reassured that my joint wasn't so bad. Here is my joint, one rail is a little low and the rail heads are of different widths... Here is a prototype joint. The near rail is worn bullhead with some 'lipping' on the left (outer) edge. The far rail is flat bottom, not new. Lift plates were used and the running edge had reasonable, not perfect alignment, but these was a slight step.... All in all mine wasn't too bad, not to say that I should accept the quality.. However (the TV favourite word of the moment) when I pushed a line of wagons through the joint there was no noise or feel to indicate that the wheels were 'seeing' the joint. If I can progress with the wiring I might get to run a loco over the weekend.

Not much modelling this week, but made a few discoveries, top tip this week was from Simond regarding Earthing Blocks. I patronised RS components and purchased a selection, like this example: They have a tin plated brass block with various numbers of holes. My plan is to have a block for each pole of the main DCC Bus. The cable for the BUS will be from rolls of mains cable I have to hand. Conveniently red and black. The cables will pass through the block without a break, just having the insulation removed for that length. The other job will be complete the joint between the first 2 boards. Because I have used some Tim Horn boards of varying widths, also subject to cringeworthy butchery, I needed to splice a different end onto the first board, glued in front of the existing front, when the glue had almost dried, screws were inserted to hold it all together. The metal pattern dowels forming the alignment between the boards were given a coat of 'Railway Green Primer' to inhibit corrosion. While the tin was open I larruped some on the front of the joint.. Lets hope it's not too wet in the morning... Also new this week were some PL-33 micro switches. I really like the way that they clip into the Peco O gauge points. The only complaint is that the wooden top to the box is very, very thin plastic. I think a screw to replace the pin maybe more effective. What have other people done..

When I had a paint shop under my wing. We cringed at the use of Pantone’s for paint. I believe they are for inks on white paper. If that was the only reference we’d get paint matched to a printed sample.

I’ve never seen these before. They look really useful. I’m ordering a selection from RS components tonight. I already have the rolls of mains cable. My cable is stranded as it was purchased to use in conduit. Will that make a difference?

My 4 boards only total 16 feet. So I’ve got 3 joints for expansion. I have a cunning plan to have a short section of rail at each baseboard joint the is aligned with a short fishplate and has its own bond. The idea is to make any damage at joints minimal. Thanks for the interest it is really appreciated.

Thanks. Will order one.

What is a good tool I want to use the ferrules. What is a good value tool. I see some over £150.....

Craig I solder most rail joints, adding the feeds at the same time. With boards under 6 foot, I should in theory only need one feed per section with 3 foot as the maximum distance the 'lectic has to flow.... Thanks for the feedback

What earthing blocks do you use? Thanks

Good morning, Maybe I should have used some better illustrations.. I do not rely on fishplates for continuity. Most fishplated joints are fully soldered, if not soldered the rails on each side have their own feeds. On the joints with the curved turnout I am joining to C&L. Looking at the pictures the rail is actualy slightly higher and the head slightly wider, not unknown on the real railway. That will hopefully be dealt with by some fettling. The feed wire is rested on top of the fishplate and then when soldered all 4 items, both rails, the fishplate and the feed wire are soldered together. Hope that's explained that one.. The feeds to the movable switch are a different kettle of fish... Here is the switch with the fishplate that forms the hinge. Below is an illustration of the method. There needs to be a minimum of solder added to give continuity between the switch and joint fishplate. The feed wire needs to be joined as near the pivot point as possible to minimise movement when the points are moved. I strip and tin about 10 - 15mm of the feed wire, bending a small section at the end to be soldered under the joint fishplate Where these wires go through the baseboard I have some thin tube from tins of Duck Oil (WD40 type product) that will be slid over from underneath to hopefully stop the wire getting stuck in the ballast. One thing I do struggle with, is to actually see what I'm doing. Plenty of light is essential and I need to use my magnifier... Anyway, thanks for the interest

The rail joint sleepers are soldered to each rail. The feed wire is soldered to the side of the rail. The movable switches (point blades) are pushed 3/4 the way onto a fishplate. The feed wire is soldered to the underneath of the fishplate. The fishplate moves less than the rail between the next 2 sleepers. If time proves that decision wrong, through a bad feed. I can add a new wire to the side of the rail on the movable switch.

Tonight I wanted to lay in the leading turnout (Points No.6). I had to snip off the wires used by modellers who want to rely on blade contact. I decided to solder wires to the underside of the fishplates that formed the heels of the switches and a wire to each of the closure rails. The Peco wire will drop through the baseboard to be switched later for the live frog. Finally there will be a wire to each of the fishplates that join the turnout to the plan line. A major player in this event is my new tool, 'The Monster' a 100W soldering iron. Really impressed by its performance... It soldered the wires to the underside of the rails etc, like a breeze... Here are the 2 wires for the fishplated joints, The protocol 'blue to the back' applies... You can see the improved alignment of the rails, now soldered at the joint Here is the start of the wiring under the boards, need to think about how it will be trained,,, There is a gap under the point work. This will be filled when the point operating mechanism is installed.. Here is one of my feeder wires, impressed with the soldering.....

A couple of road vehicles arrived today. A Post Office Telephones Morris J van. My dad had a J type that had been used by the S E Electricity Board. It had a low ratio back axle, used to pull a small box type trailer and there was also a ladder rack on the roof. My Dad took off the roof rack, cut it down the middle and re-mounted the pieces on each side. The fitting boards across the whole roof creating a large flat loading area... The other vehicle is an Austin Cambridge VI. Dads one was in light and dark green two tone. The model has wing mirrors that are like some bling item. It needs some mirrors that are more subtle... I also need some 1962 number plates.

When at school we had lessons on spelling the potential howlers.. Stationary and Stationery Using the 'E is for envelope' as the reminder, as a typical example. However occasionally the use of words in different parts of the country will challenge. When working at Toton I struggled on which pronunciation of Castle... Then living in Eastleigh with a boss from Exeter, who would ask me "Where are you to?", which translated to "Where are you?" Now living in Norfolk, I've started to say "I'm now going to the shops", instead of "I'm going to the shops". These regional variations are fascinating. Then throw in the variations of the different cultural backgrounds... All in all a fascinating subject. I always read my posts, but often spot the errors after posting.... I wonder how many I'll score out of ten for this one.