The Bigbee Line

Impatient as always I've added some 2mm half round evergreen to the top edge to form the top lip. I had 1.5mm and 2mm section and decided to use the 2mm section, as in my opinion such detail is a kind of caricature. When cemented in place it is quite neat, whereas the real thing was soon knocked about.

More underframe work tonight. Trimmed (more like hacked) a couple of grooves in the underframe cross members to take the Parkside Brake Block Assemblies... The brake hangers look a little short, so might add some cosmetic overlays.... The body has a bottom, it was tight on first cut, then loose when trimmed.......

First pictures of the 'Rolling Chassis'. I'm planning to use some Parkside Brake Hangers for the LNER 8 shoe style The solebars had some bumps moulded that fit into the kit body. As my body will be home made, the bumps have been removed. Almost got the 4 sides joined...

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/lmsopen/e2d90e295 This is the one

I managed some more work on the axle boxes, fettling the guides where the box slides on the axle guards: I then cut out some thin styrene for the sides and ends, An earthing block was used as a square block for holding the parts square...

On the Parkside axle guards I have removed the 'Bridle Bars' from the bottom to allow the axle boxes to be assembled off the model. The boxes have been given a liberal dollop of cement and will now be allowed to dry for a couple days before assembling onto the axle guards

Paul, Thanks for the pointer. I'm thinking of doing the unfitted version Ernie

Between jobs I've added the evergreen strip to form the pockets for the removable axleguards. Looking down into the pocket. The plan is to have a countersunk BA screw to clamp it all in position. Here are the 2 axle guards slotted in... The grey parkside iron has some scrap plastic cemented in place to turn it into the solid rather than W type, it is smoother on the front....

So much for finishing the Shock Open this weekend....... Had a tidy up session and came across this... White metal, steel underframe 10' wheelbase, with a 1 plank fixed side and ends body. Can anybody tell me what it is? Back to the Shock underframes. The removable axle guards had their stops fitted to the frames this evening... just need to find some very thin self tappers. Maybe the ones used to fit microtrains couplers.

Good morning, This thread is not for ranting about the environment and our plastic output. Rather things that we throw away that may have a use in modelling. My first topic is the 'Printer / Scanner' that I'm sure we all have at home. I had a canon product, it worked well and I was pleased with its performance. It then came up with error messages to suggest that the 'ink overflow tank' was full. I fully explored the possible solutions, including those found on YouTube that required some dubious techniques... To cut a long story short, I found a replacement in Tesco that was almost the same price as a set of replacement ink cartridges... Explain that one..... So I had my replacement printer, what do I do with the old one. It say staring at me for some time. Hmmm I can use the glass screen for assembling plastic kits to keep it nice and square.... The disassembly of the machine needed the skills of a Bomb Disposal Expert... Eventually with some brute force and various levers I fought my way in. I eventualy had my glass screen, plus a couple of motors, some miniature plugs and sockets, numerous small self tappers and very inky fingers... The big motor looks like it has potential for re-use on O gauge. It's body is approx. 45mm long, the diameter is approx 32mm and the shaft looks like 2mm. I was wondering if the experts on this forum could comment on its possible re-use. Many thanks Ernie .

Watching the inside motion during a slow speed shunt is a real pleasure, I particularly likes the painting of the parts, not sure if it is lubricant or real oil, but the effect is 'just like the real thing'.

A handy piece of wood was used as a base for the underframe. Underframe fixed with 2 screws and various washers.. The two different axleguards are fitted on one side. The grey Parkside one needs a little infilling on the guard iron,

From a loading perspective the chains are spot on. The fact that they are crossed gives more restraint, so you get the thumbs up from the loading inspector. You could add some small blocks of wood on the top of the bearers under the crate. These would ideally be bolted through and stop the crate from having any tendency to creep sideways... IF it had come from the Western Region and IF the yard supervisor was using his old stock of labels, such a label would be on both sides of the wagon. You will note the reference to 'sheets' these were the canvas sheets used over loads, all serial numbered and accounted for. Sheets returned were folded for transit. Another element of railway work probably gone for ever.... Anyway, must do some modelling......

Chaz, Now having seen 'Dock Green' in the flesh, your pictures are viewed with a different perspective... I might have asked before so excuse me..... Was the crate on the Lowmac based on a prototype or is it freelance? I have seen such crates at a local factory and they all appear to be quite basic in construction, using rough sawn timber and put together using various skill levels of carpentry. Some are a box that contains the product, others are a case build up around the object for protection from damage whilst in transit. Any prototype pictures would be appreciated. Thanks Ernie

We spent last weekend at Peterborough. I had the privilege to assist in the operation of 'Dock Green' I browsed the stalls and purchased a Slaters Shock Absorbing underframe. I'd planned a steel shock open for some time in the LNER style. The chassis kit has all the difficult parts (mainly the unique buffers) The underframe was trimmed from the sprue and cemented to the headstocks. Frame has a bad twist so I will need something hefty to straighten it out. I do have a resin container, but need to check that it will fit in the shorter shock style body. I am going to use the slaters axleguards at one end and some Parkside at the other end, should allow easy 3 point suspension...

Ray I was on the other side of the fence over the weekend assisting with operations at Peterborough. I'd never used a card system before, so was a little unsure how I would perform. I'm pleased to report that they were a great guide, considering they had to orchestrate 3 loco's with their associated, sometimes quite complex, shunt moves. What I really liked was the colour coding for each loco i.e. Train engine, Yard Pilot and Estate Loco. I enjoyed being Yard Pilot as I could shunt in my own time and then tie in with a exchange with one of the other loco's. So I'm a convert to a card system, well done Chaz...

Paul, Good 'how to guide' for a novice like me. However, one 08 sounds much like another, with as you mention the auxiliaries running can give variations. Then when running the mechanical sound might vary. I was not aware that the traction motor sound could be varied, very clever. Thanks

This isn't the best example, but I was thinking of getting some of the black panels made up from photographs of real wagon panels. Good square on pictures and a bit of tidying up. This was a grey body with sign written lettering. In my opinion they look better than decals...

I have a coach in GW Chocolate and Cream. I'm planning to paint it maroon on one side and Blood & Custard on the other. How different was the BR Custard to the GW Cream, I have the feeling that the BR Custard was quite pale but the GW Cream was quite rich. Am I getting confused... The GW Cream will make a good undercoat for the cream anyway... I'm looking at 1963 so the Blood and Custard will be a bit if a stretch... Thanks

The Set track points could represent Dock side tracks or even s Wissington Sidings model. The boards could be formed into an L, 1300 x 900 for something different.

Here are a couple of 2 axle tanks at Toton in 2004. I was there from 1997 and never saw a bogie tank on the depot.. https://www.flickr.com/photos/55938574@N03/10274619463/in/photolist-gDW7pr-gDVyiz-gDV5Bw-gDV6Yu-gDW86g-gDV7my-gDW7Dp-gDW7Ue-gDW7P4-gDW2x2-gDW7xn-gDVBWr-gDW5mt-gDV299-gDW3q4-gDVxEa-gDVtiq-gDV2wJ-gDV5iA-gDV4ou-gDW6d8-gDVz6X-gDVAKD-gDV3Vq-gDVtzs-gDVBXD-gDVwc1-gDW8ht-gDVDeB-gDVwcG-gDVDkD-gDV7BU-gDW8ok-gDV7dC-gDV7wJ-gDV6RL-gDVra7-gDV5EC-gDVqF1-gDV5yW-gDV2tN-gDVuTQ-gDW6hr-gDV29u-gDVqHq-gDW6ev-gDVr9W-gDV6x9-gDVsPE-gDV2ts https://www.flickr.com/photos/55938574@N03/10274562436/in/album-72157636402894353/ EWS did transport diesel between depots and to loco's with a road tanker Thanks Ernie

I think they look really smart. Real Silk Purses.

Thinking about the Denny style frame, I wanted to avoid adding any additional resistance to the system as the Peco points do not need much force when operated without a micro-switch. I think a cheap slide switch could provide the necessary latching. The Peco turnouts need approx. 5mm of travel A slide switch could be mounted with the tang sitting in a recess in the slide. I know some slide switches have a round knobs Now need to find one with a suitable 5 - 6mm travel...

Dave, I wish I had a time machine. My late father did Furniture Removing and House Clearance, he must haver broken up hundreds of pianos, mostly uprights. We always had one in the 'other room'. There were wooden and cast framed versions. Some of the strings were very thick. The wood was top quality, but sadly most ended up on the fire..... I'm on the lookout for some item to be the donor.... Anyone scrapping a piano??

Andy. At a recent show. We spied some HO animated figures including ‘bedroom exercises’ with the lady on top..... whatever next. Not available in 7mm.....