The Bigbee Line

A lovely warm day today. Modelling has moved to the workshop (I can make a bit more mess and it doesn't have to double up as an office). My normal method is to cut out the old door and put is a fresh piece of plasticard or a door that had been widened. As this rebody of a 17'6" underframe would not have the top 'traders' door, I wondered if I could simplify that part of the construction. Taking a large (2" diameter) circular saw blade in my dremel at the slowest speed, I gently trimmed off the door and hinge detail. The shows the body with just a sheet added under the body to give the missing height: The stanchions have been added and some evergreen cemented in to allow the top rail to be formed: The top rail has been trimmed. The door will be a sheet of thin styrene and added hinge detail. The underframe has been screwed into place. The body is sitting a little low and will have a packer fitted to lift to the correct height before the cosmetic solebar is added. A side by side view of the end of my first 10' wheelbase version and the latest version. I might replace the moulded grabs for the fun.... Researching the prototype has been quite interesting. I think I'll do one with LMS style 8 block brakes (but luckily not fitted with the auxiliary rubbers..) the other will have the 4 block Morton style. I've also cut out some headstocks to take some white metal bodies RCH 'long' buffers. Just need to assemble them with a 'base' to allow them to be assembled to the models with screws. For some reason I'd shied away from the task, not sure why, just a confidence thing... These two wagons are a little out of my chosen period, but will allow me to purchase a Heljan OAA in early livery ( a favourite wagon for me)... Will need a blue 08.......

Nothing wrong with some cinematic nostalgia.

Hmm. The old “re-think”. We all suffer from that.

Today it’s sweet peas.... plus the rest of the gusset plates in the end door. I hadn’t noticed but the originals are too close together. Now the rest are in place I’m quite please with the result. Here is the “before”... Here is the “after”, next to a Lionheart model. I’ve added its new bottom and sat it on its chassis.

I found some time to fit in a little modelling. Here the potting bench doubles as a wagon shop.... I do find I get ideas at the strangest times. When I was hacking off the door detail for one of the tipplers I looked at the top edge of the end door. A Tri-ang compromise. The top edge being much too thick. As I will have to make a higher top when I create an MDV, I took the plunge Tomirrow I will add the other gussets.......

Also on the go is a Lima version. It has a strange lip on the bottom of the body side and the underframe doesn’t want to come off..... as I will be adding a cosmetic solebar I might be able to slit it off. I already have 1 ex Palbrick 17’ 6” over headstocks version, this can be its brother. Just needs the wider door and the extra height to the body. The original door door has been removed. the door width comparison.

Seed sowing and potting is No.1 job today, with some modelling bits and pieces in between. A few bodies are having the stanchion extended downwards. On the left a couple of pieces of scrap cemented on, then on the right after a fettle with the file.

The first 2 tipplers have been cut and shut. I drilled out the axleboxes in a Big Train underframe. I cut the frame in half and added some Peco wheels for a height check. the solebar / axlebox relationship is wrong. I add a false solebar....

I gave my cosmetic axle box overlays a flash over of paint to check on the effect (just call me Mr No Patience...) The original 'hacked' box Now with a simple cosmetic overlay

I've had a couple of days away, the only modelling was in my head. I'd been researching the BR Iron Ore Tipplers and looking for info on the Chalk Tipplers.... My reasoning was I could convert my last 3 Big Train / Lima models without having to worry about doors. Cowards way out, but they would add a little variety. I did wonder if they ever to loaded with coal for destinations that had a rotary tippler.. All I need to do is to make the end plain. I hacked of most of the detail with a rotary tool, then added a thick layer of Tamiya acrylic paint to act as a filler before it is rubber down and the end stanchions fitted. Here is the original, quite crude, end, Here is the end with the primer/filler added..

I came across some strainers I had been looking for. I also had a handy piece of coal from 60009, collected after it had spent the night in the yard at Norwich. After being crushed in a in a tin I used the various sieves to grade the crushed coal. I ended up with the ‘dust”: then some pieces .5 - 1mm. Finally the biggest pieces The question is. What size coal was carried in the 1960s.

I’ve found this picture showing 6 drums “British Insulated Callenders Cables Limited”. Any cable experts out there who can comment.

Whilst doing garden and shed work, I did a test run for cable drums. Usual source, coffee stirrers. I’ve found a couple of manufacturers websites. One shows the wooden drums being made. Very interesting. I’m planning one full drum with the wood staves hiding the cable, one showing the cable and one empty. Thinking of a reel of the 33kv cable used on the former Southern Region.

CHARICATURE MODELLING I would describe my modelling style as 'Caricature Modelling'. I want the wagon to look right, proportionally correct. As the real things soon get 'lumps and bumps' I use the 'near enough / life's too short' ethos. So today I have gardening tasks to perform. In between I need to detail up another couple of minerals to get them to the point they can have the bodies 'first coated' in grey. Here is an example of my crap caricature style. On the left is a Lionheart door This door has been detailed with evergreen strip of a convenient size (what was easily to hand) plus small pieces of coffee cup lid. When the solvent has hardened it will get a fettle with one of Linda's emery boards.... This mineral is at the East Anglian Museum. Good access for measuring and pictures. Look at the picture on the right of the door catch. The rivets do not line up exactly.

Tonights episode, is to report on some painting. Here with a first coat of Tamiya acylic... Here is one showing a comparison of door and body proportions

Today Matthew I adjusting ride heights........ On my 'red body, was wooden solebar' version, the second hand axle guards seemed to sit very low on the wheelsets. The bearings had been fitted to the holes as moulded. See image showing location. Looks OK. As I had enlarged the holes to take the bearing, it was visible at the front, see below: Notice how it sits towards the top of the axlebox.... With a trusty needle file I have elongated the hole, moved the bearing and added some bits of scrap styrene and solvent to give in a new housing. Hopefully that will sort out the ride height... More later

Good morning, In Cardiff for a meeting. I've now got a 'travel kit' to enable some modelling tasks to be completed in the hotel. Last nights efforts were cutting some holes in wooden planking to create a wagon used for laying cables during third rail electrification on the former Southern Region of BR. The donor wagon is a Parkside SR 8 Plank. Big hole for the cable to run through, plus foot / hand holds. Pilot holes for the other end.

Just adding the cosmetic steel underframe.

Today I've been fitting couplings and buffers. I can now shunt with them, setting the ride height, so the tops are all even. The second wagon is a 'Lionheart' model, the rest are Big Train/Lima conversions. It will be good to get to the stage when they get a coat of grey paint...

The Slaters wooden sole bar is getting a cosmetic re-work to look like steel.

I’ve been churning out the cut and shut doors. Here’s the latest recipient. I’ve also extended the side stanchions downwards. This one has got a Slaters wooden underframe rejigged to look like steel. Plus a couple of standby buffer beams. Frigged up to screw on...

Steve, thanks. You know I’m full of stupid ideas. Too many in fact..... i was thinking that unfitteds could have their numbers printed onto black decal sheet.

I have been talking to a Rubber Stamp company today.. Most enlightening, they actually do white ink and 2 mm letters /numbers, So I've placed an order for various items and included this beast in the order. So am looking forward to seeing how the white ink compares to the acrylic paint...

Slightly different subject tonight... I'm always thinking about the numbering etc and how it can be quite random in font style. I had been musing about the old 'John Bull Printing Outfit' and the hours of fun as a kid.... So a quick search on ebay got me a cheap Dormy set of 3 and 4 mm letters / numbers.. Being as patient as always I had to give it a try. Here is the first attempt with some acrylic white. The number was random. I need to cut the holder down as it would not sit down evenly. It has spurred me on to get more practice in. This is the effect, then below the cruel close up. Has anyone else tried such a technique?

The doors are a lot of faffing about. Now I have a stock of the narrow ones. I can cut and shut to do a scale width door. It was actually easier than I thought. Which is which?