The Bigbee Line

On the real thing the radius on the front is almost twice the back, with some blending where they join..

Never thought I'd be starting this sort of thread.... I have been gifted some parts that include almost all of a GNR 0-6-0. I think a J6.. The hard parts have been done for me, so have been tempted to have a go at completion.. Simond has already given me some sound advice. I'm taking the cowards way out and will start by motorising the chassis as it is. The centre axle is very slightly higher than the other two, and with some 9F drivers 9wrong number of spokes and not sure of the throw of the rods) fitted for a test, pushes nicely through a set of Peco Points. I plan to start with the completion of the tender first, and will be ordering the wheels from Slaters shortly. If anyone has an instruction sheet I could do with a copy so I can identify the small parts on the etches. At the moment, the footplate, valances, splashers, cab and headstocks are together, likewise the basic tender structure and both underframes. I've found the rods, so looking good. I've never built a loco kit before.. Any information is appreciated,

Spooky, I was just about to start a similar thread, I will be watching this thread with interest

I found some more cut “logs” in a box and topped up my wagon. Not sure how prototypical as a load.

Are they modelling standard or narrow gauge? If you were modelling standard gauge, you could adopt gauge 1 components, axleguards etc and set the height up carefully. I'm sure 3 hole disc would be manageable fro someone like Peartree Engineering. A planet type diesel would hide most of the gubbins, very tempting...

This afternoon I sneaked in some white lines. Looking at prototype pictures, they are not to exact. I used masking tape and white acrylic, patted on in an effort to make it not too solid... Quite stark at the moment, weathering down will help I'm sure.. The area below the body is next to get more attention, looking to have a 'standard' underframe mix. Probably a combination of what's in the paint box...

I have also just ordered 'Volume 2'. A bit of a 'wagon nerd' book, but right up my street. I now have 10 ex Big Train / Lima Minerals in various stages of reconstruction... To help me keep track I've added them to a spreadsheet.. How sad can you get? But it lets me see what needs doing to this 'mixed bag' .....

Brian, it’s “red oxide primer”. The railway has some standard colours. Mainly Red, Yellow, Black and White. Plus Red Oxide or Green primer. As mentiord. Repaints are rare. Mostly patch paint.

Who did the hair cuts, the third guy looks like the barber used a knife and fork....... My dust coat is just like that. Hard to come by these days.... Mine has authentic grease marks....

MLV were always powered, from Third Rail or from Batteries GLV were powered when converted to de-icers, but at overhaul at Eastleigh they were de-motored by cutting the pinions from the traction motor (obviated any need to change the springing). Third Rail collection still required for de-icing equipment. Trivia facts, the the GLV bogies have different wheelbases and wheel sizes.. P4 modellers please note... At the last overhaul the shoebeams were replaced, I purchased the last 13 from Unipart stock. The specification for the wooden shoe beams used tropical hardwoods (now protected) and the glues used to bond all the layers together was definitely not environmentally friendly...

ADE908882, built to carry armour plate. Branded RSE, at Tonbridge West Yard in the 80’s. Any idea of what it carried? No auto brake, just a through pipe for air.

In daylight the grey did have a slight bluish tinge. I coated another body. Here are 4 with the tops painted. Depending on what’s underneath the shade does vary. I’m now looking through 1960’s pictures for a base colour for the underframes and wheels.

Thanks Brian. I took the the plunge and created a grey, white plus a little blue mix in Tamiya Acrylics. Here’s the first 3....

I’m on the Home straight. Now have all conversions underway. My current conundrum is the shade of grey. What is everyone else using?

While sorting through stuff, I came across some twigs cut for HO pulp racks. Must be at least 10 years old. Just need to find the other boxes. Should have enough for 2 minerals. Some are a bit thin. But look ok.

First priming coat applied. also gave a couple of un-fitted versions a priming coat of grey. I need to bend a batch of door bangers (springs) from brass and shape up some brake levers and slides. My next vehicles will be re-cycling a couple of coach underframes into Carflats. So am looking for early livery pictures.

I think the Palbrick Re-body is almost ready for paint. Added the other side door, and various bits and bobs. Here is a general view: In the pictures I can see a few things 'on the wonk'. I'll do a quick fettle in the morning and get a base coat of paint on. Then see what else jumps out. I am thinking of painting some spare decals with the body colour. These can then be decaled or printed and then stuck on.

I like the Siphons, but a bit 'off topic' for me. I will keep an eye open for some departmental type conversion... Maybe a Cordon, Gas Tank Wagon, or a crane runner..

Very busy with proper work this week... Been thinking about buffers. I had purchased several sets of white metal shanked sprung buffers and decided to use these on the kit built Kirk vans. The plastic kit versions being cascaded to these minerals. So fettled a couple of headstocks to take the shanks. As they are ABS I needed something quite punchy to bond them, so once that was sorted, finished that part of the preparation. I thought I'd do the easy end first, so added the back part of the end stanchion. Tomorrow I will add some fillets of styrene for strength and to ensure the buffers are nice and level. I won't be springing the drawgear, instead using peco hooks as a temporary measure. Really looking forward to getting this one to the paint stage.

Thanks, did the vehicles end up in freight trains?

Good afternoon. I have been gifted a pair of nicely made Kirk O gauge bogie frames. I'm sure I've seen some before, but cannot remember where.. Any information is appreciated. Thanks Ernie

I also have a Lima Toad, planned as a version with the veranda end boarded up, the foot boards removed and brake levers fitted. It will run in a mixed freight, in transit.... I had not heard of adding 2mm to the height. Is that to remedy a Lima design error? Anyway it looks smart.

Just a quick half hour in the workshop tonight. First filled in the door that was un-necessarily removed... Then added the gussets to locate the cosmetic solebar. Cosmetic solebar added, with lower hinge detail added. Comparison, first the Lionheart door. Now the home made version. Note the gussets need to be trimmed.

Just sneaked in a fettle on the underframe. Originally the underframe was too wide, by setting the bearings in a slight recess I have gained valuable millimetres. there is mimimum end float on the axles. Might even thin down the edges of the guard irons.

Amongst the seed sowing today I have raised the body height on the 10' WB, a washer was used as a spacer secured by the mounting screws. Three were used as a test and also added some nice weight... I also started a batch of doors.. Shown next to it's inspiration.. Here shown in position... Back to gardening now....