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The Bigbee Line

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Everything posted by The Bigbee Line

  1. One side is done. This time from the more normal viewing distance. I’ve added a representative “HMLE” yellow sticker (actually a chopped up panel from an HO box car sheet. The nondescript black lettering looks fine). Plus a maintenance panel and the 10’0” wheelbase. On this one I used a decal for the white stripe. Now it’s on with the brake work and weathering.
  2. It’s like time lapse photography.... keeps me off the streets....
  3. Steve Thanks for the feedback. This is the easiest conversion from the Big Train model. Just add a few mm of height at the bottom, extend the stanchions downwards to fill in the missing bits, cut out the old doors that are too narrow and make a new door. The PALBRICK conversions have no top traders door, so it is simple... I made a replacement section above the end door, just to try it, looks good, but for running is not essential. This one has the Big Train underframe re-used, a bit of a work up, but makes it cheap on materials. I added the luxury of sprung buffers. I will also add some thin brass brake levers as it will catch the eye and stop it wandering to the axleboxes. There is lots to do on the weathering, I'm going to try using copydex instead of maskol to make patches, paint over, then peel off the copydex (It only works for a day or two as the copydex will go sticky eventually, I found that out when I tried to use its rubbery properties in 4mm wagon suspension) I will work out the hire rates for the next show, Very best regards Ernie
  4. Another cruel close up. The build up of the data panel continues....
  5. Having established the methodology I’ve made a start with side two. For me the number is the key. I would like to shunt with a shunt list, so a fairly legible number is a plus. Dating this wagon to 1982 ties in nicely with the period that I was out on the “iron road” as a guard at Ashford in Kent. There are a few wagons that I’d like to model that are out of my Hayling Island pre 64 period. So this date will give me some discipline not to wander to far. Plus a blue 09 will do nicely.
  6. I did a “cut and shut” on the existing decal. Then added numbers and letters. I think it could be made a better proportion if starting from scratch.
  7. Sublime to..... Here’s a Modelmasters 00 for size. It’s not the correct wagon, but is too small anyway. Suggestions please. Thanks
  8. Just tried a Parkside data panel. It seems overscale.... Maybe a 4mm one might work better.
  9. Don't give yourself a hard time, that's our job... Seriously you have to start somewhere, at least your modelling, more that some of the keyboard critics..
  10. Today I want to get the body painting completed. I am using B596094 as my model. By chance I took a picture of the wagon in 1982. It was ex Betteshanger Colliery and detached after a hot axle box... Looking at in detail there are remnants of the original bauxite painted area from when the wagon was built using a Palbrick underframe in 1975. With a picture date of 1982, the original paint was only 7 years old. It hasn't fared too well, so suspect it was a cheap and cheerful paint job. Single coat sprayed on (I'm sure a member will clarify). The darker rusted areas seem to be either general failure of the original paint or from impacts inside the body. The TOPS data panel seems to be on a more recent patch, with the change to MXV from MCV on another smaller patch of a slightly different colour. For added detail there are the remains of the yellow 'HMLE' panel. These were stuck on to show brake force in Heavy, Medium, Light or Empty states and were used when writing a manual train list. You can also see the rather faded 'Red Card - Hot Axle Box' label after it developed a hot axle box heading north and been detached. So a varied pallet of colours is the order of the day...
  11. I had a shuffle and put the NB open to the back of the queue. Until my new LNER book arrives. The former Palbrick has been shunted into the shop. One gang is on brake work. The other is painting the body. There is gloss where the transfers need to go. Various other patches added. When I was a freight guard in the 80s these were rust all over.... The big train axle guards and boxes are re-used with a bit of tarting up...
  12. Help required to identify this wagon body. This body waiting to enter the shops. Does anyone recognise the prototype 4 plank wagon? Any information is appreciated.....
  13. So again thanks to “Hal Nail” for the “door banger” choice. The end of the door bangs on a longer headstock. There is one metal “banger” between the legs of the V hanger. A 3/4 view... Now trying to scribe planks inside as it will run empty.
  14. The door springs are made, with the first one in position....
  15. A piece of styrene sheet was filed to a wedge shape. Then cut into four pieces, cemented to the end of each headstock. When dry will get final shaping.
  16. I had noticed that, but wondered what the piece was, riveted nearby to the sole bar. I might try adding the extra bits to the sole bar with a single door spring in the middle.
  17. The final coupling is in place. Ready to paint. The end link in this one is made from Tesco paper clip. Thanks to Sir Douglas for that tip. All links soldered.
  18. Virtually completed now. Buffers and couplings done. Numbers to add to one side, then door springs all round. Then that’s it. I’m pleased with the progress as I normally get distracted. Tonight I made some test door springs. They are slotted into the chassis, so should be robust. Here is the chosen length....
  19. Just put the first paint on the coupling. Needs some weathering now....
  20. The buffers were replaced. Blackened heads then greased before fitting. Nice slick action. A Peco hook was fitted next Then the outer link magnetic and the other two made from copper. Finally the interior showing some scrubbing with a piece of 80 grit. Nice.
  21. Pleased with today’s efforts. Sprung buffers next.
  22. Brian Copper Lead Dross I remember it well. Not sure long how the traffic lasted in the tiphook boxes. Interestingly they still have the beefed up top raves.
  23. DOOR BANGERS Looking at various pictures there appear to be various configurations.... This Ashford works 1948 shot shows a door banger clearly on a steel underframe version. Where below is a timber framed version iwithout... Was it really not there, or had it been airbrushed out of the works picture? There is one visible in the inner position.... you can also see the “walking stick’ safety loop
  24. Brake levers now in position..... Plus a representative “blob” for the outer door hinges...
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