John Isherwood

I must confess that I felt that I was reading one of the earlier magazines from my collection, which goes back to the 1960s. CJI.

Doug, I supply Mitsumi motors as per my link, they are not N20 motors. They are supplied without a worm, but complete with fixing screws. John Isherwood.

Worry, not me! I just feel sorry for those f**ls who pay extra for 'Green' power. CJI.

It beggars belief that these claims get past the advertising regulators! Unless you have direct and exclusive hard wiring between you and your (allegedly) 'Green' supplier, you get the same semi-polluting energy as everyone else. Anyone who genuinely believes otherwise is delusional! CJI.

What you need is a ball, and some means of throwing it a VERY long way. Whilst they're chasing it, move the RMweb bunker to somewhere they don't know about! Don't worry, Battersea Dogs' Home will find them a nice new 'forever' home. CJI.

If you did, it'll be all over YouTube as the Lickey UFO !! 🤣 CJI.

Who let the dogs* out?!? CJI. * for which read the ad tech guys.

OK - how about self-preservation? If it's not common sense to be aware of potential dangers to one's continued existence, how did we come to exist? Proto-h*mo sapiens had the common sense / a sense of self preservation not to aggravate a cantankerous predator - we fail to follow their example at the peril of future generations of our potential offspring. .... or shall we all have inscribed on our memorial stones "It was his fault ......"? CJI.

Not in mine, and and a lot of well-respected modellers' experience. The N20 is extremely powerful and smooth-running, and can be had with or without a huge range of gearboxes. Their performance is exemplary, and the gears show no sign of wear after significant running, and I have had no problem with fluff - your layout conditions may vary! The days when we had to cram in the largest motor that would fit are long gone; small precision motors will do all that the old, open-frame motors did, and much, much more. Try one before dismissing them - you may be amazed. Alternatively, I can supply : - https://www.cctrans.org.uk/MITSUMI M15N-3 DATA SHEET.pdf Only £8.50 each including UK P&P, and as good as, if not better than, the old Mashima motors; see https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm John Isherwood.

True; we lived for forty years in Cambridge - as still does our daughter and family - so I am aware of the density of service and passenger loading. Nevertheless, the twin constraints of catenary and typical train lengths, combined with the shrinking size of homes, seem to me to be an insurmountable disincentive to the large-scale production of EMU models; at least in 4mm. scale. CJI.

Really? How do you arrive at that statement. I'd guess that a very high proportion have never seen a real electric train, let alone travelled on one! Take a look at a map of electrified lines in Britain, and then ask yourself what proportion of the population are likely to come into contact with them. If you live on or near an electric corridor, it is too easy to gain the impression that your everyday experience is commonplace. It's not - as anyone living in the Southwest, Wales, etc., etc. will testify. CJI.

You can usually specify the paint type - I always specify cellulose. CJI.

Google 'N20 motor'. CJI.

Let's be clear(!); I am referring to the original Johnson's Klear, bought from Asda some fifteen years ago when it was announced that it was being withdrawn; (I cleared their shelf). Immediately before applying the transfer, I wet the area where the transfer is to be applied with Klear, then apply the transfer and immediately apply more Klear over it. I adjust the transfer position, and then leave it to dry - ten minutes or so to touch dry. The next day, I apply the final finish, be it overall Klear for an ex-works finish, or Testor's Dullcote for a matt finish. I have just finished applying transfers to fifteen BR 'L' containers; each container has ten transfers, and the above method worked an absolute treat! John Isherwood.

Hoooooray!!! The truth is finally being spread! I have lost count of the number of prospective customers who have told me that "I won't use waterslide transfers 'cos I like my models matt / satin, and you can see the carrier-film". ALL transfers, of any type, should be applied to, and protected with, a gloss finish which, when fully dry, can then be finished to your chosen level of matt / satin / gloss. I have recently taken to applying waterslide transfers onto, and into, wet Klear lacquer; by doing so, the transfer appears to have been printed directly onto the model. John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers.

Probably the result of a shunting accident, and subsequent repair. CJI.

I take it that 8', here and above, should read 9'? CJI.

Needing to test run some newly-built CONFLATs L, I decided to give "VULCAN", my newly acquired green 'Victory' class loco, a running-in turn. I coupled up eleven bogie ICI limestone hoppers, five CONFLATs L, (two of which carry three cast whitemetal L containers each), and a brakevan. "VULCAN" walked away with the lot, and did so with hardly any noise, and no wheel-slip. If you need an industrial loco that means business - this is the one to go for! John Isherwood.

I think that perhaps they were worried that such a long wagon might not run too well on 1960s trainset track; and therefore chose a shorter, non-ferry prototype. CJI.

Sort of true - but if the problem is misalignment of the bearings, and dismantling is a step too far, some slight abrading of the bearings and shaft MIGHT free things up a little. CJI.

Not in this case - the model is not being produced by KRM!😀 CJI.

The cast metal tender chassis has mazak-rot - are you sure that you tested it before despatch? With the amount of swelling and distortion evident in your photos, it's hardly surprising that the tender wheels won't turn. The broken loco/ tender coupling has probably been caused by the package being dropped on its end in-transit. It is a weak plastic component connecting two heavy lumps of cast metal. The decayed tender chassis block will have to be replaced with a spare - if such are still available CJI.

I have had this happen with Xylene - I'm guessing that the contents were contaminated with water, which would settle below the less dense solvent. My container was a 5 litre can, which was not easy to decant into what few glass jars I had to hand. Beware of reusing domestic glass containers such as jam jars for storing solvents; the fumes can degrade the sealing ring on the lid. CJI.

Search AUTO FACTORS on Google; there are plenty of suppliers of auto paint who will mix paint and fill spray cans. You can specify the paint type and the finish; gloss, satin, matt. CJI.

Your choice; strangely, there doesn't seem to be an outcry of objection to what you perceive. CJI.