John Isherwood

OK - I am going to ask the unspoken question to which all potential users of Markits superb products would like to know the answer. Why is it seemingly impossible for any retailer - not least the principal stockist - to obtain reliable stocks of Markits products? Is it that the vast range has simply outgrown the capacity of the proprietor to produce product? If so, is there any plausible reason - beyond stubborness - for the proprietor not to employ sufficient staff in order to boost output? What was the point of developing ever more exquite detailing product - which must have seiously interfered with production of existing product - if there is not the capacity to meet current demand? I can understand that, for an innovative and skilled design engineer, design may be a far more attractive undertaking than mundane product manufacture - in which case, employ someone to do the donkey-work! What astounded me, even years ago before I was declared persona-non-grata by the proprietor, was that I would be engaged in endless chit-chat when calling to place an order. I was given the impression that he had all the time in the world - and I am given to understand that nothing has changed! Now it may be that age and / or ill-health nowadays affects the proprietor's ability to run his business effectively. However, he undoubtedly has on his hands a business of proven and unfulfilled opportunity - the demand is undoubtedly out there. If anyone can provide information which in some way makes sense of this conundrum, or is in a position to persuade the proprietor to make effective changes to the running of Markits, I know for certain that a great many modellers would be extremely grateful. John Isherwood.

I am well aware of Tim's excellent accomplishments, and I apologise for any offence taken. Perhaps I was a little taken aback that such a minor task as making-good around a provided infill piece should have warranted the level of disapprobation directed at the designers of the model in question. John Isherwood.

Funnily enough, it was the Heljan DH Type 1 that I was thinking of when I wrote my post - though I have undertaken the same or similar operations on many models. I use Peco / Hornby Dublo Simplex couplers, so there is often a need to wholly or partially fill coupler cut-outs in kit bufferbeams. If the fibreglass stick is verboten, I find a miniature chisel, such as the Tamiya ones, is effective at smoothing wet Milliput, and for scraping off any dried surplus. My narrowest chisel is, I think, 1mm. in width, and can easily work around rivets on mazak, whitemetal or plastic. CJI.

What can be difficult about smearing a little Milliput, using an improvised miniature palette knife made from an offcut of etch sheet edging, and rubbing it down when hard with a fibreglass stick? The bufferbeam is cast mazak, so there is no danger of removing rivets with the mild abrasive action of the fibreglass stick. I have undertaken this operation many times, with no problem whatsoever - it's called modelling. CJI.

They won't - it's this release's 'deliberate' mistake! CJI.

Perhaps an opportunity for an after-market producer to provide etched wheel backs. If they were blackened and supplied in two halves, attachment with superglue should be relatively easy, and require no painting. CJI.

...... and the OLEUM TANK? CJI.

That's the one - diagram 3/001. Genesis produced a 4mm. scale whitemetal kit - which I subsequently found is over-width! I must get round to correcting the model. CJI.

Were there not some short armor plate and / or ingot wagons of that type? CJI.

Those members who took an interest in this thread will probably be aware that the production Roadrailers differed from the two prototypes in several respects. One of these differences was in the detail of the sideframes carrying the road and rail axles. Close-up photographs of the prototype sideframes are relatively easy to source, but the same cannot be said for the production ones. I have a feeling that I have seen such an image at some point, but I cannot now recall where. If anyone is able to point me at such a photo, I would be extremely grateful. Many thanks in anticipation, John Isherwood.

Those members who took an interest in this thread will probably be aware that the production Roadrailers differed from the two prototypes in several respects. One of these differences was in the detail of the sideframes carrying the road and rail axles. Close-up photographs of the prototype sideframes are relatively easy to source, but the same cannot be said for the production ones. I have a feeling that I have seen such an image at some point, but I cannot now recall where. If anyone is able to point me at such a photo, I would be extremely grateful. Many thanks in anticipation, John Isherwood.

Those members who took an interest in this thread will probably be aware that the production Roadrailers differed from the two prototypes in several respects. One of these differences was in the detail of the sideframes carrying the road and rail axles. Close-up photographs of the prototype sideframes are relatively easy to source, but the same cannot be said for the production ones. I have a feeling that I have seen such an image at some point, but I cannot now recall where. If anyone is able to point me at such a photo, I would be extremely grateful. Many thanks in anticipation, John Isherwood.

Before embarking upon drawing lining schemes, find a professional printer who is prepared to print from your designs. There is a perception that successful transfer sheets can be printed from clients' artwork files simply by pressing the PRINT icon. Unfortunately, that is not the case, and is why I don't offer a bespoke service. Lining can be particularly problematic; maintaining two-dimensional registration between several colour passes can require quite a bit of 'working-around'. Also, be aware that opaque lining requires an undercoat of white. The bottom line is that you will need to liaise with a co-operative printer, and this co-operation will come at a price. John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers.

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Check the bogie pivot centre dimension, too. Most of my Mk.1s are upscaled Tri-ang Hornby and Lima; I recall that one make had the bogies too far apart. The solution was to cut an offset rectangle around the bogie pivot and turn it through 180 degrees, thus bringing the bogies closer together. CJI.

The point being, though, that in a combined TPO / passenger train with offset gangways on the TPOs, the guard would have to travel in a guard's compartment within the passenger portion if the train. CJI.

Absolutely - but I would be interested to learn what SulzerPeak was implying. CJI.

Should've used a wagon with a sheet rail - please explain why the customer is complaining of water damage! CJI.

Assuming that the TPO vehicles were of the traditional offset corridor type, the guard would not have access to them. Thus, your proposed formation would leave the guard isolated in his van if he used the full brake, with no access to the passenger-carrying vehicles. If the guard used the BCK in both directions, the full brake could be replaced with a GUV, if needed for railway parcels traffic. CJI.

The purpose of the sheet was, as far as was practicable, to keep the load dry. Were the sheet edges to be within the wagon, the load would sit in a puddle during rain. CJI.

Are you saying that the early AC electris carried three shades of blue - Electric Blue, Rail Blue (shade 1), and the Rail Blue (shade 2)? If so, that does not accord with my lineside observations at the time. CJI.

Spot on! Whoever thought of sticking a few leftover sprues on totally life-expired models should have been despatched to secure accommodation immediately. Sorry - but I have yet to meet anyone who didn't burst into laughter when Hornby Steampunk is mentioned. Steampunk may be big - even huge; but did anyone do any research whatsoever into whether Steampunk enthusiasts would be interested in playing trains? I seriously doubt it! CJI.

Please could you elaborate on two shades of Rail Blue? I recall, from personal observation, a single shade. Finish could be matt (sprayed) or satin / gloss (brushed) - but the basic colour did not vary, in my experience. CJI.

Not according to the photo shown in the link - weathered, but by no means black. CJI.

You will need to find a photo of the preserved prototype, and check that it is a recent image. Appearances change under preservation, and may well not be 'correct' for any historic period. CJI.