John Isherwood

No chance - I can demonstrate that mine runs like a Swiss watch. The skill is in converting a design into a successful product; I have no control over that process. Regards, John Isherwood.

By all means - I will waive the IP charge. Regards, John Isherwood.

Perhaps this might help - it runs superbly. Regards, John Isherwood.

Exactly as I suspected - but some people seem to delight in being easily put off !! Regards, John Isherwood.

Your loss - one of the best remaining sources for all types of kits and bits; and an extremely helpful proprietor. Are you really going to cut off your nose to spite your face, when it could be a simple computer glitch? Regards, John Isherwood.

My home made cranes have a piece of phosphor-bronze pick-up strip inserted between the carriage and jib foot. It does the same job as the Bachmann spring, but is less visually intrusive. This may be the one amendment that I make to my Bachmann crane once it is delivered. Regards, John Isherwood.

Could you perhaps outline how you would go about '1.'? Having seen the real thing operating, (decades ago in the Hornby factory at Margate), I know that you are somewhat over-simplifying a complex process. Did you note in the video the numerous adjustments required to ensure that the application position and pressure is correct? That could not possibly be reproduced in a manual application. Whatever - no doubt you will try your suggestion, and I look forward to seeing the results here in due course. Regards, John Isherwood.

You may well have done so - it's called Tampo printing, and is widely used in the factory environment. It does require a special machine though; it's not as simple as dipping a stamp in paint and then applying it to the model by hand. Regards, John Isherwood.

This is the way that I have designed the layout within the station area. For both up and down tracks,there will be a loco-length section where the train loco can be isolated whilst a pilot loco is attached or detached. These lengths of track will be where the watering facilities are located, so that the train loco can be 'watered' during the pilot loco manoeuvres, as per the prototype. In the fiddle yards, each section will accommodate a full length train, so bridging of the (clearly marked) rail gaps by stock wheels should not occur. I guess I won't be certain until track is laid and test running can be undertaken! Regards, John Isherwood.

Agreed - and this was forcefully demonstrated by his very frequent disillusionment with his then-current layout, resulting in him ripping it all up and starting on something different or even in a different scale. I appreciate that Larry caused offence amongst more sensitive members on a number of occasions, but the extent to which this was deliberate and / or malicious is not clear. I do believe that many more members had come to the conclusion that the outbursts and precipitate destructive action were a character trait over which Larry did not have full control, and reacted (or did not) accordingly. Regards, John Isherwood.

We are talking Evercreech Junction S&DJR circa 1961, with no electrical interconnection between vehicles other than locos / tenders; I intend to use separate micro-switches to switch point polarity. Hopefully, I should be OK. Regards, John isherwood.

So - and this is very relevant to my future plans - I understand (correctly?) that this only becomes an issue with DC layouts if adjacent sections are switched to opposing polarities, or if an electrically isolated section occupied by a powered vehicle is 'bridged' to the adjacent powered section by a bogie with power collectors. I plan on having centre-off, two way single pole switches supplying each section from two alternative controllers, with a common return bus wire; only those sections required to power a train movement would be switched on. I will be adding and removing pilot locos from trains, and the fiddle yard roads will be split into at least four sections. Is there any danger that such an arrangement will lead to unplanned loco / train movements, provided that I am disciplined about only switching on sections required for a train movement? Regards, John Isherwood.

I'm not sure that any of my 100+ coaches have backs to their battery boxes - and I certainly couldn't tell either way, provided that they were running on the track and not derailed. How times and priorities change!! Regards, John Isherwood.

Now I am probably missing something here, but why are connected axle pick-ups on coaches any different from connected wheel pick-ups on locos and tenders? .... and what adverse consequences would arise if they were left connected and bridged section gaps? Regards, John Isherwood.

Now there's bold words - I too hope that you don't have cause to eat your words. Regards, John Isherwood.

Be aware that motorising Kitmaster kits in this way was never really successful. The unpowered loco is VERY unlikely to roll without skidding on its plastic wheels with plastic valvegear, even if heavily weighted. You'll end up with a (very obviously) powered tender pushing a skidding loco, which derails at every opportunity. A lot of us learned this the hard way back in the 1960s! Save yourself the angst - regard the chassis and motor as interesting historic artifacts; much better ways of doing things are now available. Regards, John Isherwood.

Joseph, I bow to the Honourable Member for North Dorset's superior knowledge. Regards, John Isherwood.

You may think that - but I could not possibly comment !! (With apologies to 'Yes Minister'). Regards, John Isherwood.

From what I have read to date, the subscription list will be closed before production commences - so there would seem to be little chance of all of your requirements being fulfilled. Regards, John Isherwood.

I would do the hole-cutting first, then the cut and shut. Cutting the body in half will be much easier if you invest in one of these https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/modelcraft-aluminium-mitre-box/569338-1000 and one of these https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/no-235-razor-saw-blade-expo-tools-73546?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqpq9wo_m4gIVUvlRCh2t8AXyEAQYASABEgLIxPD_BwE . Regards, John Isherwood.

It takes a bit of 'bottle' the first time, but it is just basic cutting-and-shutting. The good thing is that, if you choose a relatively blank location to make the cut, it isn't critical that it is at exactly 90 degrees. You will have two halves which, if extended by a single 2mm. layer of plastic card each side of the cut, will fit back together perfectly. It is not difficult to trim back the extending layer, flush with the resin casting, once the glue has set, and Miliput is very forgiving when it comes to hiding minor errors. Now and again when modelling, it's necessary to take a deep breath; reach for the cutting tool; and just do it! It really is the only way to extend one's modelling repertoire and skill-set. Failing that, why not ask the manufacturer if he has a reject casting that you can buy cheap? Regards, John.

The body is indeed 4mm. too short; my solution, and an alternative, can be found at Regards, John Isherwood.

Small bore tube is usually available as thin and thick-walled. Regards, John Isherwood.

I doubt that any extra bodyshells are produced to cover damaged ones - just extra complete models to act as a source of any spare part that is needed to repair models that are returned / rejected by retailers or purchasers. Regards, John Isherwood.

... and if you came from Leicester, and trainspotted in Nuneaton and / or Rugby occasionally, they were definitely 'Semis'. Regards, John Isherwood.