John Isherwood

Sorry about the link - when I posted it it went to https://www.google.com/search?q=devilbiss+autograph+63+instructions&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=48jAqnRbAhpUIM%3A%2CE_0BORZYsKO1PM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSZSFRHgT4nd1bMQH3xBuh5N8JdwQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjBv_W2q9PnAhXXShUIHWY0DKgQ9QEwA3oECAoQBQ#imgrc=48jAqnRbAhpUIM: ; presumably it's been sold. To be honest, I only have a vague recollection of the detailed construction of the 63 airbrush - if you can post an exploded diagram I should be able to remeber better and perhaps answer you question. Regards, John Isherwood.

If I may - a tiny suggestion. The chimney would benefit from losing that moulding joint. Sorry to be picky. Regards, John Isherwood.

No! Surely it was Fshhhhtikoff, fshhhhtikoff, fshhhhtikoff, fshhhhtikoff, fshhhhtikoff, ....? Regards, John Isherwood.

The cam ring, as I recall, sets a variable limit to the amount your can pull back the needle. This prevents you accidently increasing the paint flow to an excessive extent. It's literally decades since I used an airbrush of this type, and my aging memory is somewhat sketchy. There is one of these airbrushes for sale on Ebay at present, complete with instructions; https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/1623268682; ; if you lack the instructions, the seller may well be prepared to sell you a copy of them. Enquiries here http://www.getpainted.com/vintageairbrushes.html may also be productive. Regards, John Isherwood.

I'd agree - this was my first airbrush and it's a quality item. Get some airbrush 'reamer'; soak the individual components; replace any sealing rings / gaskets; and check the needle under a magnifying glass to ensure it hasn't got any kinks / bends; (which can often be removed by rolling the point on a hard surface with your finger). Re-assemple the airbrush with the needle clamping nut slackened off; gently push the needle full forard into the nozzle; pull back the needle trigger the tiniest amount and then tighten the needle clamp collar. This should ensure that the needle is fully closing the nozzle when the trigger is released. (Incidently, there should be a clamping washer on the needle just before the clamp collar; this comprises a short length of brass tube with angled cut ends. The angled cuts cause the tube to skew and lock onto the needle). Press the trigger to start the airflow, then slowly pull back the trigger to commence paint flow. When finishing a paint pass, let the trigger move fully forward to stop the paint flow before releasing pressure on the trigger to stop the airflow - this should blow through any remaining paint. At the end of a session, or after a long pause / paint change, ALWAYS blow through some thinners appropriate to the type of paint being used. Regards, John Isherwood.

Let's be fair - it's £24 for 21 containers - not 1. You may only have one container, but there are lots of different types and regions on my transfers sheets - because modellers always seem to want something different from the last one! Use the set you need, and sell the rest here or on Ebay. Regards, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers.

Then you'll need to find someone to build the kit for you. Regards, John Isherwood.

Ahh - the infamous non-disclosure agreement; these must have covered-up innumerable cock-ups - and far worse - over the years !! If you're going to sign one to protect their good reputation - which they don't deserve - you should charge them substantially for co-operating. You're lawyer is correct - take the money - and as much as he can get. Regards, John Isherwood.

Source of ironstone - if you leave the A14 and head north on the A6 Rothwell bypass, towards the top of the RH cutting bank near the crest of the first gradient, there is an outcrop / hard landscaping feature of a lump of local ironstone. It was very evident when the Rothwell bypass opened; it may be more disguised by vegetation nowadays. The wooden hopper is, I believe, of NER / LNER origin and the sides are not bulging as such; the sloping planks are a design feature and are part of the hopper shape. Regards, John Isherwood.

We are acutely aware that to raise this topic is to goad AY, but ...... without the membership there would be no forum, and I for one feel that we deserve the courtesy of some form of explanation as to what's going on. General opinion seems to be that the host servers are not up to the job - is this true? We have been told little, other than it's a tricky one to diagnose, and that, basically, we shouldn't keep going on about it. This meagre information is conveyed in a distinctly tetchy manner. Surely something is taking place to resolve the problem ..... or are we to put up with a disfunctional website for the forseeable future? If the latter, at least someone should say so clearly - even we non-Gold plebs; (the majority I suspect); deserve that, surely? The level of discontent seems to be rising rapidly; unless there can be some reassurance I'm afraid that a significant proportion of the membership may decide that their time can be better spent than sitting waiting for the inevitable Error message. That would be a shame because RMweb was, at one time, an invaluable resource. Unfortunately, for a variety of reasons and with a few notable exceptions, those who posted the most useful information have moved on. If technical problems discourage a significant proportion of the remaining membership, then the value of the group may be called into question. I trust that this frank posting will not be used as an excuse to dismiss yet another of the 'awkward squad', but I cannot remain silent when the membership is treated in this way. Regards, John Isherwood.

It's very noticeable that iron ore trains on the WR were comprised overwhelmingly of hopper wagons, whereas the LMR and, to a large extent the ER, used primarily tipplers. I can only assume that the receiving plants for WR ore trains did not have the equipment to handle tipplers, but used under-rail bunkers that suited bottom discharge hoppers. Regards, John Isherwood.

I would not suggest otherwise - I was simply indicating that RMweb is not a free service for Gold members. Regards, John Isherwood.

Sorry Andy, are you suggesting that the linked member is S Howard? Regards, John.

I have received BACS payment from the two persons listed in the thread title, but no e-mail orders. If those persons, or anyone who knows them, could contact me I would be most grateful. Many thanks, John Isherwood.

Surely they can only penalise you if you knowingly had an unregistered car one the road? In this case you could not have known. They should be pursuing the dealer for fraud - namely, charging you for a service that they had failed to provide; ie. legally registering the car. Regards, John Isherwood.

So if no crime has been committed, what right had the police to impound your car - let alone charge you £400 to recover it. I'd be straight onto that one, in no uncertain terms !! Regards, John Isherwood.

How do you define ''run hot under no load''? Is that applying maximum power from your controller, to a motor that is not connected to anything, for a significant period of time? If so, I would expect any motor to get warm / hot under such treatment. In service, connected to a free-running chassis via a sensible reduction gearbox, the motor should not be stressed to the point where it overheats. Regards, John Isherwood.

The advertised rating of miniature electric electric motors is is very variable - a little web browsing will find the same motor with, apparently, several different stated ratings. The Mitsumi M15N-3 is perfectly happy running on 12V; if it's running hot then look to the mechanism to which it is attached. If you go to https://www.electronicsdatasheets.com/manufacturers/mitsumi/parts/m15n3-series , you will find that, whilst the nominal rating is 8V, the stated voltage range is 6V - 28V. Regards, John Isherwood.

I am slowly coming to the conclusion that, if I can ignore a discrepancy in rail gauge of 1.8 mm., I can also ignore a discrepancy of 1.3 mm. in boiler / footplate length. However, I have Comet LWB chassis for the two LWB locos that I am planning to build, so I will have to watch out for firebox / rear driving wheel interference. Regards, John Isherwood.

The Brassmasters Black 5 kit came with a very comprehensive technical history of the prototype in book form, with tables listing the many and varied detail differences of the different batches. I found it relatively easy to determine which details applied to which batch, and there were also details of in-service modifications. No doubt there are bound to be the odd anomalies, but such detailed information makes life a great deal easier for the modeller. Regards, John Isherwood.

But it's a free service; (unless you pay for Gold membership); how dare you criticise !?! Yours wryly, John Isherwood.

Wizard do Single scissors gangway (UC041) https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/carriage/single-scissors-gangway-uc041/ Dart Castings do 2823 GWR Gangway & 2824 LMS Gangway https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/carriage/single-scissors-gangway-uc041/ Ratio do Code: 111 https://railsofsheffield.com/products/14936/ratio-111-oo-gauge-corridor-connections?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7OShrOS_5wIVx7TtCh194w4xEAQYASABEgLiVPD_BwE Regards, John Isherwood.

Actually, that makes it easier in some ways. The cut would be in front of the rear rivets on the smokebox; below the sandbox fillers, and through the footplate behind the motion hanging bracket. The lubricators can be moved forward by 1.3mm. That's do-able ! Regards, John Isherwood.

Nope - that's wrong. The smokebox should remain attached to the footplate, and the circle of plastic should be added to the back of the smokebox. Even more hmm !

Thanks for that - much appreciated. So - I have a spare body from Hornby 44781 (SSB / SWB) and a Comet LWB chassis kit; I'd like to model 44766 (ESB / LWB / double chimney). If I am to be strictly accurate I should cut off the smokebox / boiler / firebox from the footplate / cab and remove 1.3mm. from the back of the firebox, before reattaching it to the footplate / cab. A 1.3mm. thick circle of plastic card should be attached to the front of the smokebox before refitting the door. If I wish to go further, (!), I should remove the backhead, increase its length by 1.3mm., and reattach it. Hmmm !! Regards, John Isherwood.