John Isherwood

I don't think that recurring slots are currently available - at least at Asda and Sainsburys. John Isherwood.

See https://gov.wales/get-coronavirus-support-extremely-vulnerable-person for information applicable to Wales. John Isherwood.

There are lists being compiled for all of the UK - only the England list has been released to the supermarkets as yet. I don't know if the on-line form for applying for priority is applicable to Wales, I'm afraid. John Isherwood.

My wife has just been informed, electronically, that she has been prioritised for Sainsburys delivery slots. At our local branch (Bodmin) : Week 1 : 8th - 14th April has no available slots - though they're trying to create more. Weeks 2 & 3 : 15th - 21st and 22nd - 28th have not had their slots released yet. According to Sainsburys chief, the government priority list for England was only released at the end of last week, and the lists for the rest of the UK are yet to be released. John Isherwood.

For the electronically savvy, I am sure that it's a doddle. For someone with O-level Physics (just) from 1965, whose recollection of those days extends to V=IR and W=VA, it's a complete no-go area. I managed, with considerable assistance here, to modify the LM317 by substituting a different pot, and the home-brewed controller that I built using it works very well; (except that first 90 degrees of pot rotation produces no dicernable movement). Running is exceptionally smooth and motor noise is virtually absent. Thanks to Junctionmad here, I have purchased and had delivered a https://www.rkeducation.co.uk/rkpsu-v1-single-output-psu-for-model-railways---built-2918-p.asp , which would seem to be ideal for powering layout lighting or a turntable; however, I wonder whether something similar is available with a rating of, say, 2 amps, which would make it suitable for locomotive control? John Isherwood.

I would still check the width against a drawing - not another model. The fact that the bufferbeams are too long, and the overhang of the deck from the solebars looks excessive, suggests to me that the model may be overwidth. As you will see from the above diagram, it would appear that the decking should be 8'-10'' (35.3mm.) overall. John Isherwood.

Before you start the build, check a few dimensions - especially the width of the deck. I built a Genesis bogie armor plate wagon and, when I had finished it, I felt that something wasn't quite 'right'. Checking the model against a drawing, it was evident that the width was overscale by a couple of millimetres. In conversation with the then-proprietor of Genesis I mentioned this, and he said that it was intentional. The kits had been designed for a friend who used Hornby Dublo stock, and he'd asked for the kits to match Hornby Dublo models - so they'd been made overwide! I wish that I'd known this before I built the kit - it would have been easy to remove 1mm. from either side of the deck, but now the model is solder-assembled and painted, the only practicable way to narrow it is to take 2mm. out of the centre of the deck, and construct new bogie pivots. John Isherwood.

Ian, I had that occur recently when building two High Level gearboxes for ex-LMS 2Ps. All I did was extend the new holes into the corner folds with a rat-tailed file, until I had created some clearance for the edge of the screw heads. It only needed a tiny amount of slotting to achieve this. Regards, John Isherwood.

Ian, It is the work of moments to drill two additional holes in a High Level gearbox fret, to accommodate a Mitsumi motor in vertical format. The Mitsumis that I sell; https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm ; come complete with fixing screws, and a diagram show exactly where to drill the extra holes. Regretably, I am unable to supply at the moment due to self-isolating, but I will be happy to take orders as soon as the current situation eases. Regards, John Isherwood.

Surely it is easy enough to lower the couplings by 1mm.? A piece of 1mm. thick plastic card packing? John Isherwood.

I'm afraid that your 'resource' doesn't exist in the form that you were hoping for. However, if you were to specify an area - quite closely specified - and period, the chances are that someone may be able to assist you to some extent. In a way, it's just as well that the 'resource' does not exist; it would negate the enjoyment of research. John Isherwood.

If the body is sitting low and needs (a) washer(s) to raise the buffer height, it suggests that it was designed for correct 14mm. dia. wheels, rather than 12mm. dia. wagon wheels. John Isherwood.

That's High Level gearboxes for you! I swear by 'em. Regards, John Isherwood.

I wasn't aware that Humbrol did a water-based varnish - I was referring to solvent-based Humbrol varnish. The techniques that I described apply to my own productions, Cambridge Custom Transfers; they may well not be necessary for transfers produced by others. John Isherwood.

As per the instructions, my transfers should always be sealed with a water-based gloss varnish; (such as Klear); before overspraying. The transfer may appear to have adhered properly, but my guess is that some matt varnish managed to get between the model and the carrier film - that would account for the silvered appearance. Don't use Humbrol varnished directly over the transfers - the solvent base is likely to adversely affect the ink and carrier film. BL157 is for ordinary cattle wagons; the official designation of your van is a prize cattle van. As such, the correct transfers can be found on sheet S1. BL97 is, as you suggest, correct for the ex-SR vans. Regards, John.

It isn't too clear from your description, but did you seal the transfers with water-based gloss varnish before spraying the final varnish? I always use Klear - see http://nswbgmodelling.airleague.com.au/PlasticModelPage/TheCompleteFuture.htm - before and after applying waterslide transfers. In fact, with a little practice, you can apply the transfers into wet Klear so that they are, in effect, surrounded by Klear - zero silvering guaranteed. If applying transfers in the conventional way over plank joints etc., the use of https://sgsmodelstore.com/products/microscale-industries-micro-sol-micro-set-decals-solution-pack-of-2?variant=31188993540174&currency=GBP&utm_campaign=gs-2018-08-09&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg4bZnsHO6AIViLbtCh3MXQaMEAQYASABEgLlQfD_BwE will greatly assist adhesion. I have applied my Palethorpes sausage van transfers as one-piece, whole side transfers over raised detail, using Microset before applying the transfer, and then several copious applications of Microsol over a period of time, gently pressing the transfer into the detail. I trust that the foregoing will be of assistance, and I look forward to (eventually) supplying your transfer needs again. Regards, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers.

I doubt that there is an etched folding mark; the framing appears to be half-etched, whereas the planking appears to be unetched with etched plank lines. John Isherwood.

A couple of corrections. I am cctransuk on this forum and, as is stated on my website, I do not do bespoke transfers. The reason is that, in order to be viable, transfer sheets have to have a general appeal. Departmental markings were many and varied; everyone wants a different specific subject; and, as such, they are not practicable for me. Sorry, try Railtec. John Isherwood.

From what I can see from the photos, the intended arrangement is that the framing should fold back against the plain, inside face. (You can't have etched planking on both inside and outside faces). If you want inside planking to show behind the framing of a half-opened door, scribe the plank lines on the plain face before you fold back the framing. John Isherwood.

Looking at my shed - and recalling many others -the framing is always on the inside. Think about it - framing on the outside; lots of water hanging around, rotting the framing and planking. John Isherwood.

The advantage of the LM317 is that it has a full size pot, that can easily be used for train control purposes. The Buck Coverters seem to have a tiny, screw controlled variable output. Regards, John Isherwood.

Martin, The variable voltage regulator unit actually has an onboard LED voltage output indicator. I have to agree with other posters that, using your train controller on a separate track section would be by far the easiest solution - you'd just need to make sure that you used about half power on the controller dial. Regards, John Isherwood.

I have already done some experimentation in this area - see Is there something similar to the RkPSU v1 Single Output PSU that could handle a current a little higher - this one seems to be rated at 1 amp. Regards, John Isherwood.

Our local nursery here in Bodmin is offering a (sort of) delivery service. No website, lists or prices - just e-mail a wishlist, and he'll get back to you when he works his way down the list to you. Better than nothing, and he reckons his delivery driver is run off his feet !! Strange times. John Isherwood.

The folly of the over-privileged! Why on earth would anyone build a three-arched bridge over a private, single track railway - other than for prestige? OK - it made work for a number of manual labourers for a few months - but a basic single arch would have served the purpose equally well. John Isherwood.