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Everything posted by John Isherwood
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It's a long time ago, but I have a recollection of it being moderately complex - ie. not just a drop-in exchange. Packing under the new motor, and probably drilling the chassis for a new motor fixing screw. At least there's plenty of room for the new motor when the huge Ringfield is removed. I can't recall if I found a worm that would mesh with the original driven axle gear wheel; most probably, I used a Romford worm / gear set. The motor was an unused, boxed Pittman bought cheaply on Ebay; it has transformed the 8F into a superb, slow-running and powerful loco. Once stripped, the Hornby Dublo body has very pronounced rivet detail, which I reduced somewhat with emery paper. Regards, John Isherwood.
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I had a three-rail one of those, bought when 3-rail was being sold off cheap, but I could never stop it squealing / slowing down after a period of running. With retrospect, I've a feeling that the armature expanded marginally when running, just enough to contact the interior bore of the Ringfield magnet. I tried adjusting the armature shaft rear bearing, but nothing worked. The loco has now been rebuilt to 2-rail with Markits wheels, and a Pittman motor in place of the Ringfield, which no longer intrudes into the cab. Regards, John Isherwood.
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That is very nice indeed - I really don't know how you 2mm. scale chaps do it !! Regards, John Isherwood.
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Shows how much interest I take in such fripperies !! Regards, John Isherwood.
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I would have thought that highly likely - Oxford were not going to tool up two different guns, were they? John Isherwood.
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As one who regularly skipped Cubs in order to see and hear a pair of Metrovick Co-Bos, on full throttle, at the head of the CONDOR, I can tell you that they were audibly more impressive than even a DELTIC ! At the time, a uniform train of containers, with a headboarded pair of new locos at the front, did speak of the future. Regards, John Isherwood.
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Really? Containers, door-to-door; pretty clever, no? Oh - suit yourself! John Isherwood.
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Agreed - so many plastic and etched brass kits have spindly, flimsy brakegear that would never have stood up to the tough conditions of the prototype. I always substitute ABS castings - and they add useful weight just where it's needed. My stock won't last forever, though - please, someone take on Adrian's legacy! Regards, John isherwood.
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That's a shame - mine went together beautifully, but it was some years ago. John Isherwood.
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We walked past Padstow station this morning - now isolated in a(n unusually empty) carpark. I have never been able to work out why there is a railway milepost attached to the frontage of the pub, across the harbour from the end of the railway line - I can only think that the harbour, now the property of the Padstow Harbour Commissioners, was once owned by the railway. Regards, John Isherwood.
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Tony, The ones that I bought were the generic ones - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/761590804.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4f0e1d4agZYbXk&algo_pvid=4641bcd4-225d-4158-a937-8a73de627bb3&algo_expid=4641bcd4-225d-4158-a937-8a73de627bb3-51&btsid=0b0a0ac215923952967257903e648e&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603 - which I suspect may well come from the same source as the branded ones! They work perfectly well. Regards, John Isherwood.
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That's fine for accessible brass, but something a little more delicate and precise is required for whitemetal work. On brass, too, the 3M wheels will get in where the big wire brush won't. For intermediate work on brass, I have some smaller brass cup brushes. John Isherwood.
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It all depends upon the extent and depth of the excess solder - for large accumulations I'd start with a fairly course one and then finish off with a finer one. The finest impart a beautiful polish. I bought several of each - a significant investment but well worth it. To gauge which ones you need, go to a store selling wet and dry paper and decide which grades you would use if applying that medium - the 3M wheels used the same grit size grading. Regards, John Isherwood.
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See my post above - warm water, a pinch of washing soda crystals, and a tiny drop of the cheapest washing up liquid. John Isherwood.
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I would strongly encourage any modeller who engages in brass construction to invest in an ultrasonic tank. Filled with warm water, a pinch of washing soda crystals to neutralise acid flux, and a tiny drop of washing up liquid, (the cheaper brand the better), and the model will immerge pristine and ready for priming. I use the fibreglass pencil much less nowadays, since I dicovered these https://nancylthamilton.com/resources/charts/radial-bristle-discs-grits-and-colors-chart/ . Regards, John Isherwood.
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In my experience, the answer to stray glass fibre filaments is an ultrasonic cleaning tank - it's amazing the amount of debris that these find in an apparently spotless model. Regards, John Isherwood.
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Me too - but I have had no problems with stuff delivered to me by Hermes. John Isherwood.
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Can you name any courier whom you can be confident has no weak links in their chain? John Isherwood.
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No weakest links round here! Our Hermes lady is as reliable and efficient as one could wish - certainly way better than most of the other couriers. It all comes down the the person responsible for recruitment; if they are committed to customer service, the chances are that you'll get a reliable agent. If the recruiter is just concerned with fulfilling his / her quota, you could well get a wrong 'un. John Isherwood.
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Whilst my transfer range is very largely BR era, there are a few GWR sheets in the C-prefix section at the end of the list. Within the BR section, there are quite a number of early examples that make use of the ex-GWR script; particularly amongst the departmental wagon sheets. Regards, John Isherwood.