John Isherwood

These motors seem suited to most applications - if it'll fit, it should run OK. Having said that, if you want to run full length, express passenger trains at scale speeds, I'd recommend looking for something a little 'beefier'. Do note that these motors run slower than Mashimas - 8750 rpm at no load; take this into consideration when selecting a gearbox ratio. The speed calculator at http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/gearboxplanningpage.html is very useful in this respect. Regards, John Isherwood.

For my own use, I have just designed a set of ten numbers - but for application to solebar painted number plates, which I have just cut and fixed from 10 thou. / 0.25mm. plastic card; 12 x 3.3 mm. The letter form - specifically the '3' - is different on the body number livery. I have printed my numbers in 10%, 25%, 40%, 55%, 70%, 85% and 100% density white, to represent varying degrees of fading when weathering is applied. If anyone wants to backdate their hoppers to the same 1960s condition as mine, I could convert my own set of numbers to cover all of the 2284 - 2319 series. Note that the hoppers now remaining from Hattons have plate framed bogies and LLL - RRR side rib angles; only 2284 - 2319 were in this condition in the 1960s, as I understand it. Regards, John Isherwood.

I have been in contact with John Talbot, and he has around 100 of the ICI hopper etches - which he has very kindly offered to me. When they arrive, I will post again here with a photo of the etch. On request and with John's consent, I will distribute them FOC; all I'll ask for is an SAE. PLEASE DO NOT SEND REQUESTS FOR ETCHES YET - I WILL POST AGAIN WHEN WE GET TO THAT STAGE. For anyone who models the pre-TOPS era, these etches will enable them to backdate the TOPS era hoppers that Hattons still have in stock. The best model to purchase is the weathered ones, as these are so heavily weathered that the TOPS markings are invisible. With the ICI raised lettering and a numberplate on the solebar added, the models will be indistinguishable from heavily weather pre-TOPS wagons from the 3284 - 3319 number series. I have a rake of ten in the process of backdating, and they look superb; I intend respraying one in ex-works light grey as a recently overhauled wagon. Now - a couple of requests; does anyone know of a clear photo of the painted solebar numberplates that these wagons arried in the BR steam era? Also - did the NON POOL marking have a red or a body colour background on these wagons? John Isherwood.

When using Klear to seal transfers, I apply it to the entire coach side - including windows. Klear is recommended for improving the transparency of plastic windows / aircraft cockpit canopies, etc. John Isherwood.

It seems that we've been here before! John Isherwood.

Ahh - but does he mean crimson - or BR maroon? David can be a bit inconsistent / vague when it comes to liveries. If they lasted in traffic until the mid 1960s, I would expect a significant number to be in unlined BR maroon. (In fact - I'm sure that I've seen a colour photos of one such; but don't ask me where). John Isherwood.

As my stock of Mitsumi motors is getting a little low, I decided to restock. It is evident that supplies of the version with two equal shafts are diminishing, and the price is rising accordingly. I have managed to secure 200 more, at a price which is only a little higher than last time that I ordered. However, I am not confident that this excellent motor will be readily available in the longer term. If you've used it and like it - stock up now. If you haven't tried one yet - now is the time to do so. John Isherwood. https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm

As my stock of Mitsumi motors is getting a little low, I decided to restock. It is evident that supplies of the version with two equal shafts are diminishing, and the price is rising accordingly. I have managed to secure 200 more, at a price which is only a little higher than last time that I ordered. However, I am not confident that this excellent motor will be readily available in the longer term. If you've used it and like it - stock up now. If you haven't tried one yet - now is the time to do so. John Isherwood. https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm

I would recommend reading the full voltage regulator thread - it is somewhat convoluted, but ends in success - it's not just a question of using the VR as it comes. Regards, John Isherwood.

Well - the GWR-designed INSIXFISH was built by BR even later. John Isherwood.

Perhaps not the plastic-ended / roofed SD ones - but the all-tinplate ones certainly were; I had several. John Isherwood.

See for details. Regards, John Isherwood.

Paul, I am now in possession of six hoppers and a copy of your book. Having had an hour or so to kill whilst waiting for a couple of new tyres to be fitted to my car, I am much clearer as to the history of the various batches of these wagons. I have also found a source of etched ICI lettering, so the backdating can commence. Thanks again, John. PS. I am sorely tempted to buy another ten wagons, to make up a decent rake.

I have received a BACS payment from the above Mr. SIMON A. CRAMER, but no accompanying e-mail order. If you are this person, or think that you know him, please contact me via PM, or at cctrans@hotmail.com . Many thanks, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers.

Despite the undoubtedly respected author, I beg to differ! Having operated the trial 0-6-0 chassis referred to on my website, both with and without the flywheel, I can state categorically that it ran perceptibly better with the flywheel. I use a straight DC voltage regulator, sourced from China, as a controller; if this is of consequence. I trust my own observations rather than rely on heresay. Regards, John Isherwood.

You are very kind - much appreciated. It's a question of identifying a reliable source and sticking with them, and I try to strike a balance that is value for money. Regards, John Isherwood. https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm

The method that I use is to drill a hole slightly smaller that the size of the nut in a piece of plastic card the same thickness as the nut. I press the nut into the hole in the plastic card with a vice, and glue a 'lid', with a clearance hole for the screw, over the nut to prevent it pulling out. John Isherwood.

Jim, All that potential customers need to know about my offer of Mitsumi motors is on my website - at some length. What is not helpful is someone making unfounded and uninformed guesses about how I source them. I am not being defensive - just correcting misinformation or, (as a certain eminent(?) North American might say), Fake News! John Isherwood. PS. As you may have guessed - being a Lancastrian, I don't do flannel - I call a spade a shovel!

I am said "transfer gent", and I can confirm that I do NOT purchase my Mitsumi motors from the source that was linked. My motors come complete with fixing screws, and a diagram showing how to drill fixing holes in a gearbox in order to fit the motor. John Isherwood.

That doesn't look too bad at all ! I'll keep a look out for one. John Isherwood.

Try slotting the centre axle bearings downwards, and adding springs bearing down on the axle. John Isherwood.

Does it bear any resemblance to a Bristol / ECW railbus? Regards, John Isherwood.

So - just to be absolutely clear - the post-war ICI wagons were fitted with plate-frame bogies from new, but with oil axleboxes? Regards, John Isherwood.

That was very timely! I was on the point of ordering six sets of Cambrian diamond-frame bogies; and they would have required the WB extending to 6'-0'' - something that I've dome before. Thanks, John Isherwood.

I'll check the WB of the Cambrian bogies. If I'm going for 1961 ICI, am I to understand that no wagons would have been fitted with plate-framed bogies? Regards, John Isherwood.