John Isherwood

in that case, I'm afraid that you are overstating the difficulties. A simple two pole / two way / centre off switch, to apply the appropriate controller to the specific loco, is all that is required. Simples! John Isherwood.

Very useful, thank you - much appreciated. John Isherwood.

Mark, Excellent - thank you! Duly ordered, along with some Markits two-ball handrail stanchions for my turntable. Regards, John Isherwood.

Sorry - 4mm. scale required. John Isherwood.

Does anyone produce non-operational / cosmetic turnout levers for sidings - either the straight or the cranked style would do? John Isherwood.

I'm not quite clear as to what you require - you specify numbers B964106 to B964111, which were Lot 3449, but there was at least one more 'angular' brake tender within Lot 3446, B964035 - and this has been mentioned here. This was originally built with two 'turrets' for the brake cylinders, but was rebuilt to the angular style. John Isherwood.

..... or greengrocers - if you have such a rare emporium nowadays! ..... or a fish & chip shop - though they may charge over-the-odds! John Isherwood.

Not me - I'm not convinced that resin in such tiny quantities would be robust enough. Lost wax brass - now that might be different. John Isherwood.

A piece of rod does me - and 90% of those who use etched sides, I suspect. John Isherwood.

Not legally, perhaps - but it is not unknown, even now! Regards, John Isherwood.

A better way is to right click on the image - or if that is blocked on the black surround - and select 'View Page Info'. Then select 'Media'; then scroll down the list of files until you find the image you require. Once the image that you require to download is visible in the lower display panel, use the 'Save As' tab to download the image to wherever you wish. It sounds complex, but it becomes second nature in no time. I really don't know why people try to block downloading - once you upload an image it becomes public property; (for private use only, of course). John Isherwood.

Just read the review and am very impressed - plus one photo of the prototype that I haven't previously seen shows me that the tender ends should be green. I will have to get out the paint and brushes, and amend my model. John Isherwood.

You may wish to do what I am about to do - an idea unashamedly borrowed from a modeller 'down-under'. HINGE POINT ACTUATOR.doc Regards, John Isherwood

Can you or Mike Trice give Hornby a tutorial on this method? John Isherwood.

Indeed - not easily discerned nowadays, thanks to rampant tree growth. John Isherwood.

Because the Iron Age hill fort, at the top of the rise above the New Addenbrookes Hospital, is the reputed / legendary resting place of the ancient giants Gog and Magog. Regards, John Isherwood; (late, forty-year denizen of Cambridge).

Ian, Indexing - loco number, followed by _01, _02, _03 etc. I limit the collection to the best images of each subject; maximum 20 images. Protection - auto-backup to Crashplan. The future - don't bother; they are all sourced from the internet; I only save them so that I can find them when I want them. Selfish, perhaps - but I've no interest in preserving other people's copyright images for posterity; that's for the copyright owners. John Isherwood.

I feel your pain! DPD told me to expect delivery of an expected package today, between 18.59 and 19.59; at 20.10 I checked tracking, to be told that it would arrive TOMORROW within the same time slot - when we will not be able to accept delivery! John Isherwood.

... or .... a livestock wagon; sheep, calves and pigs, all with their own accommodation! John Isherwood.

I wouldn't suggest that to anyone who footplated a Crosti in original condition - there was a good reason why the Crosti pre-heaters were removed; (at some considerable cost)! Look at a few photos of Crostis - if you can see the loco through the massed clouds of vile, sulphurous smoke. We called them '92 Stinks' !! John Isherwood.

In this case, though, we are talking about shouldered rivets - a wider section on which the moving component rotates, and a narrower section that is expanded into the fixed component by pressure. The knack is discovering the correct pressure - or, more usually, hammer blow - that will expand the narrow section but not the wider section. Valvegear rivets are usually counterbored in the narrow section, so that the application of a spring-loaded centre-punch will do the required expanding; I try not to use a hammer, however light-weight, for expanding valvegear rivets. John Isherwood.

The link does not work for me - have you blocked it? John Isherwood.

I have done several - though many moons ago, so I'm out of practice. I have a number of BR Standard 3MT 2-6-2Ts, and 4MT 2-6-0s, to rechassis, which will have Kemilway chassis. I have both rivets and brass pins in stock - I'll try the rivets first! John Isherwood.

I couldn't quantify the proportion but, having assembled a collection of some 75,000 BR locomotive images to date, my impression is that early crest / lined green was by no means uncommon. John Isherwood.

As you have a chassis jig, you can use it to correct K's errors. You can widen the frames by inserting washers between the spacers and the frames; the same number on each side, of course. Open up the holes for the tophat bearings in the frames until all axles sit level and square across your jig, using the coupling rods on the ends of the jig axles. (If the kit doesn't supply tophat bearings, supply your own and open up the frame holes as necessary). When you are happy that all is square and aligned, solder the tophat bushes into the frames, and the spacers / washers to the frames. You should now have a square, rigid set of rames that match the axle spacing of the coupling rods. John Isherwood.