John Isherwood

I don't, as you say, do loco lining - for the reasons that you refer to. There is absolutely no need for waterslide transfers to show the carrier film, IF they are applied correctly; (my transfer instructions give detailed instructions. Many modellers insist on trying to apply such transfers to matt or satin surfaces - these MUST be gloss - after sealing the transfers, whatever surface finish you require can be applied. As to trimming around transfers - it's totally unnecessary! Just cut a rectangle around the chosen transfer and apply it; there will be no visible carrier film if the correct procedures are adopted. The choice is yours, of course, but I offer what must be by far the widest range of transfers for 3mm. / TT models; (and all the other scales too). They are used by some of the most well-known names amongst 3mm. / TT modellers. Regards, John Isherwood. https://www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm

Why not use my 3mm. / TT transfers; all listed on the Cambridge Custom Transfers website? John Isherwood.

My new railway room, converted from a brick-built garage, has just been handed-over by the builder; (photos soon). As well as installing plenty of insulation and vapour barriers, he has installed an extractor fan - mainly to expel glue and paint fumes. However, it also has a humidity detector which switches it on when excess humidity is present; (this is adjustable). I have a small oil-filled radiator, set to its lowest setting, which hardly ever turns on; and this and the fan seem to keep keep the railway room free of humidity and excessively low temperatures. John Isherwood.

As said model is now in my possession, and will shortly have a close encounter with boiling water, I hope eventually to show it here looking somewhat more like the prototype. Copyright www.ontrackplant.com This is the only photo that I have of one of these snowploughs - if anyone knows of any others, I'd be most grateful for links. Regards, John Isherwood.

I've seen many photos of locos with similar or worse spectacle glazing in traffic; I suspect some of the older drivers always stuck their heads out of the cab cutaway as a matter of course. (Namby-pamby things, glazed spectacles)! John Isherwood.

Wright - take 100 lines !!! John Isherwood.

That accords with my recollections. John Isherwood.

To the best of my knowledge, the lettering would have been located on the vehicle end - but I am open to correction. John Isherwood.

He really does need a computer-savvy assistant. John Isherwood.

The stars indicate the position of the cords for releasing any vacuum in the brake cylinders. There would also be EMERGENCY LIGHTING POINT markings on the solebar; plus FILTER and MAIN TANKS TO BE FILLED WITH DRINKING WATER ONLY markings on the ends. John Isherwood.

Now that is the way to communicate - oh that such information had been made available from the outset. John Isherwood.

Could it be that they wish to retain all spares that they have for repairing returns? It would make sense to do so. Annoying for anyone wanting, say, just a body - but I can see why they might have such a policy. John Isherwood. PS. Thinking about it - it's a good way of selling the whole model to those who can't wait a year to buy just a body - makes commercial sense!

https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/locomotive/mt186/ John Isherwood.

You mean like this? Remove the whistles; replace with twin horns; a little white and yellow paint; and - job done! John Isherwood.

Indeed it is - but your recent posting doesn't give the impression of a mature company. I can't recall any of the mainstream model railway companies "poking fun at the doubters", despite them being continuously criticised by a certain section of the membership here. They simply 'rise above it', and get on with producing model railways. Just my opinion - take it as you will. John Isherwood.

https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/?s=spectacle&post_type=product&title=1&excerpt=1&content=1&categories=1&attributes=1&tags=0&sku=1&orderby=date-DESC&ixwps=1 John Isherwood.

Two approaches suggest themselves : - 1] remove the fold-up sides AFTER you have fitted the solebars - the latter should be sufficient to brace the sub-floor. A plastic card floor could then be fitted. 2] obtain some brass U or rectangular section that could be soldered to the edges of the fold-up sides in order to widen them. John Isherwood.

Darius, It may surprise you to know that KRM and I have a mutually respectful and amicable relationship via PM on this forum. KRM have stated to me that I have conducted my public correspondence re GT3 in a proper fashion. You will also be unaware that I have provided KRM with research material and information concerning GT3 and other subjects. Had I not already built a model of GT3, and have a kit for the Fell, I would have purchased both. As it is, I have made an EOI for the 'Super Clayton'. So - please stop interfering in a relationship which is functioning perfectly well without your divisive input - I did not issue a 'verbal kicking' to KRM; I merely observed that a more mature stance could be advantageous to them. Like it or not, a very significant proportion of the British Public, including railway modellers, are suspicious of anything that does not originate in the UK; pretending otherwise is simply self-delusional. The term 'Jonny Foreigner' has been used for centuries as an expression of that attitude - modern political correctness has not diminished that view; it has merely pushed it underground. Nothing that I have written here or elsewhere indicates that I hold such views - I emphatically do not - but it is a significant factor when potential customers consider a new entrant into the market. John Isherwood.

You miss my point - I was describing the likely thought processes of many potential customers when K.R.M. was launched. If I had intended to be offensive, it would be much more apparent! John Isherwood.

In no way; he (I) said it as a genuine attempt to redirect KRM gloating to better effect, in terms of increased sales. John Isherwood.

I trust that this will explain. John Isherwood.

All I can say is that my 16XX, powered by DC from a dirt-cheap Chinese voltage regulator circuit board, is superbly controllable - an absolute dream to drive. Sometimes, the simple approach is best. John Isherwood.

So - in order to portray D5405 shortly after arriving at Leicester, I should repaint the cab roof cantrail from grey to green. That's just the sort of 'personalisation' that I enjoy! Regards, John Isherwood.

I have, by a process of elimination, come to that conclusion. I clearly recall seeing my first of what became Class 27, at Wigston - just south of Leicester. I don't recall it having yellow warning panels, but I'm now sure that it must have had them. Anyway, I have just bought a brand new Heljan D5403 in green syp, and this will become D5405; one of the batch that Leicester shed acquired from Cricklewood. Thanks for the input, John Isherwood.

Will you not be assembling the chassis onto a floor that can fit within the body? John Isherwood.