Golden Fleece 30

Ray, As David has said there is no need to swap any wheels on the A2. It should already have a plastic coupling which prevents it shorting out. You have seen my Standard 5 running and that has original Trix wheels fitted. Garry

And expensive at £150 + for Britannias and over £200 for some kit built ones. Pullmans can be over £50 and some blue and grey coaches over £250. Garry

Hi David, I been told the the crank pin maybe splined at the bottom end and pressed in like an axle which stops it turning. That may help slightly. Garry

Hi David, Its not K's either, it is an ESANEL one as I have recently built one and painted it in a similar colour. It is still awaiting couplings but is nice. The ESANEL kits (part of BEC) were some of the best, especially in TT. I have 4 of their Parcels vans and a few loco bodies. The wagons and coaches had a nice interlocking system to help assembly. It is like dovetails cast in the floor/sides/roof and works well holding it all together before soldering. I did not put the bars in mine either. Someone has told me they think the Brit wheels had a cast T slot on the inside with the crank pin having a T tail which goes along with non turning, and, not being able to replicate. Garry

Hi David, I have all the service sheets but they only mention the wheel assembly with the pin. If they are like the 00 ones then there will be an oval recess on the back of the wheel which goes against my plan. I was hoping it was something easier so I could convert some Castle or Jinty wheels to accept a return crank. As it is it looks like I will have to use the tried and tested method of a screw/bolt through the rods and solder a return crank on the top. The 00 ones were a brass part that took a screw through the return crank, TT has a steel one with the top threaded for a nut and the sides narrowed for the return crank to locate onto. Garry

Can anyone tell me how the centre crankpin was fastened in the Britannia wheels? I cannot see that it was screwed to always get the narrowed top in the correct orientation. If so, then I would have thought it could unscrew as I doubt Tri-ang would glue it in all that time ago. Garry

Here are my problem Neo's. The flaking one is not my loco but from someone else showing their issue. Garry

If you are on the HRCA website there are plenty of people there who could help you. Apart from using the magnetiser everything else is above me in relation to the issues. Garry

Thanks Angus, I remember that photo now. Great memory although I don't remember ever having the book. I know what you mean about phone v PC. I can do very little on my phone. Garry

You have got me there, I have never heard of that before. Hopefully someone on here may know more about magnetism to inform us. In my experience any dud magnets were Dublo not Wrenn and if still no good after a remag than a new magnet was obtained which works fine in the same pole pieces. Garry

That's correct, Hornby Dublo did have a few poor magnets that would not hold their magnetism, thankfully not on a big scale but it also affected some of their Ringfields so it is not the magnetisers fault but the magnet. Dublo magnets can be bought quite cheap and usually then they are better than the defective ones (you would be most unlucky to get another dud). As you say Tri-ang had very few issues with their magnets. Garry

Hi Angus, I cannot get the link to show anything when downloaded, could you try to scan it into a JPEG format or something please? Garry

Type B was introduced in 1959 leaving Type A only being made for 2 years. Type A track had a TV suppressor fitted in each power straight, each uncoupler then half straights could be bought with or without. The with ones differed slightly having a small raised section of ballast between two of the sleepers. You are correct regarding the points which is why I like them but also as the track seems more robust even though not as realistic and certainly not as easy to take apart if required. I am led to believe that the modern TV's (Flat screens etc) and being digital do not suffer the electrical interference as the old sets did, especially with analogue. I have to admit I have removed the suppressors from my locos when I clean them and also from the track even though they are supposed to also help the brush/commutator sparking. Garry

Thanks for the information and drawings. Previously I have only ever seen his track plan using Gem/Wrenn track but no list and certainly nothing regarding the track plan itself. I don't know if he did try to loose lay it because as drawn the sides of the main loop would be different. This is because the Large radius curves are the first two in the curve followed by the small radius which would not have ends in alignment. Due to the point position the small radii should be the middle two pieces. Also he states in the write up he states "insert the two half curves in the reverse loop" yet puts 2 full curves in the diagram. I know it is a minor "slip up"? but due to the layout size half curves would not be enough. It is difficult to understand his method of the track cutting etc as just cutting a piece in half (or to size) leave one end that will not fit the physical end connection of a normal piece. Leaving the end fishplates off would still leave it impossible to insert the track later as they have a large off set from each other and the base has the tongues. To cut a piece to fit you need to cut the base in three with the outer two parts the actual length required when placed together and the rail when cut holding them. Having said all that it was still a good idea and as you say his flexible ends must have been tighter that Tri-ang's. My upper level will only be as far back as the rear tracks allowing me access to the points for when Sods Law happens. Garry

Why not just buy the very safe one Ron Dodd advertises on Ebay. The coils work on 12 volts and you get a compass and meter included. I have used mine many times on Dublo, 00 and TT motors with great results. I will not use Neo's anymore due to them splitting and chipping (personal issues) and then peeling and bearing wear (other peoples issues), then, the matter of attracting nearby metallic objects when a train passes. Garry

When you look at the video of the goods train coming out of the reverse loop it makes you wonder how Mike Bryant fitted the layout in width wise. I used small radius curves, plus a quarter straight, but 2' only goes as far as the left hand brown strip which is the 6" extra width. But, as someone mentioned if the framework was on the outside there would be another couple of inches to play with. Garry

Here is the part one video of my layout. Most of you will have seen the first part of it as it shows the basic construction etc but the latter part is a video I did this morning. It was very cold hence the coat on and only 3 different trains. As mentioned in the video the locos are a lot quieter, the noise is due to the track bolted to the baseboard. The controller is the basic H and M one that was built for Z and 00 with outputs of 9 and 12 volts (set still to 12v), it is not feedback or full/have wave etc but does reasonable slow running as it is. Garry

Don't worry about upside down etc, all I did was read it on my phone after turning off the auto screen position. Garry

I have just looked at it Ray and I don't know if there is enough depth from the chassis to rail height, but, that is not to say it could not be done. I personally would be doing my own version similar to the Spam Can and Lord of the Isles etc anyway but you are pretty good at these things and maybe able to fit a skate. Regarding the Wrenn locos some TT ones are now pushing up towards £200, I have seen a Britannia go for £185 and a couple of whitemetal kit ones at £188 and £160. Even a bog standard Jinty went for over £40 and M/N for over £60 this week. Dublo prices seem to be coming down and TT going up, must be me swapping from one to the other, even Exleys are cheaper now. Note, I do not pay those prices Garry

I have not seen them either Nigel but would have liked the goods shed to go with the station building although that might be too big for this layout. If the signal box was based on the 00 version then no. Garry

I had thought of moving on the "Chris Hardy?" wheels but just noticed 3 extended axles in the box. How these could ever be used for a steam loco i will never know as the nut would prevent the coupling rods revolving, but, having just put a couple of sets together there is a possibility I could use six of them for an 08 and solder return cranks on the axles. No idea when as plenty of other things on the go but will keep them in the roundtuit box. I have now fixed the 4 Dublo section and 2 reverse loop switches on the lower level and wiring is complete. I have had a bit of play with it today and tweaked another couple of hic-cups but it seems to work well. Due to commitments it will be Friday (weather permitting) before I can take a video but for now I can concentrate on finalising the upper level. There is a piece of plasticard stretching across the track width in two places on the reverse loop which is for insulation purposes. It was fitted oversize, glued in, and then filed level with the rail tops and inside edges for a smooth wheel transition. Garry ps The hopper wagon and the KM wheels have all been spoken for.

I have been looking for the Superquick TT station and I think I have seen three on Ebay, all going for near £30 which I was not going to pay so really pleased this was included in the box of parts. I did try the M/N conversion about 35 years ago which never worked out so last year when I got back into TT I glued the boiler section to the cab again to use as the 9F. Whart57, I assume you are only talking about the KM round axles? Any ideas on the other round axled wheels with a centre bush like Tri-ang/Dublo locos? Pacific231G Lovely photo showing the majority of the layout, it actually looks quite small to mine but looks can be deceiving. I will try to create a similar view later although my upper station is/will be a bit different. Garry

Hi Ray, It does look nice, and different, but unfortunately I am not a lover of overlays. I have a couple of tank locos I did but the wagons I did I threw the bodies away as, in my own opinion, they don't look right. I know lots of people use them, you, Andy Millar has lots, and a few other Dublo lovers but they are not for me. At least you have a totally different Dublo unit now, and with different end styles. Garry

The loco body arrived today with quite a few other bits in it. 1) Some wheels look like Romford's but with black centres in two different diameters - these will be useful. 2) Some wheels (Keen/Maygib?) most still in sealed packets - these I do not want as they look too fine and have round axles IF ANY ONE HAS ANY ROMFORDS (or Tri-ang Britannia open spoke wheels) AND WANT TO SWAP PLEASE SAY SO. 3) A few wheels I have no idea of origin but all round axle types and have either been manufactured like this or modified with a centre bush - again these I do not want and have round axles, IF ANY ONE HAS ANY ROMFORDS (or Tri-ang Britannia wheels) AND WANT TO SWAP PLEASE SAY SO. 4) A lot of bogie wheels, XT60 motor a pair of open spoke Tri-ang wheels etc - these will be useful. 5) A few castings, 2 are 6 wheel tanks and will be useful, others are coach bogies and willing to swap for Tri-ang bogies. 6) Superquick station building - really useful for my layout and the first time I have ever had one. Recently two of these kits sold for more than I paid for all these items put together. 7) The loco body - really useful but no roof as someone asked about earlier. Its chassis has already gone in the bin. 8) HAA hopper van - not really for me and is possibly going to someone who has already expressed an interest in it. 9) Quite a few transfers and tarpaulins. Garry

The main track is all down and in the process of testing, the goods siding needs a 3/4 straight then a couple of buffer stops. A few teaks done and possibly a couple more before I can start on the high level. What I have noticed is that the points do not like having the track either side of them screwed down fully. I guess due to the thin aluminium sheet underneath. I did have it removed on a few points only to find it supports the blade switch from dropping out of mesh with the pin. All fun and games. Working reasonably well so far so hopefully a couple of days should see this part complete. As you can see there are two points at each end of the loop which are for storage/extensions etc. These will most likely have the Wrenn adapter tracks used as other boards will be Peco/Gem track. After last nights hic-cup a new curve has been fitted and the jobs a "gud un" as we say here. Just need a few Hornby Dublo black and green switches (at the right price) for the sidings and reverse loop. I use two green ones as a DPDT and maybe add a black one as a centre off style switch. Dublo switches are the best in my opinion. Garry