Jack P

Small update, Appreciate everyone giving feedback so far, lots of good tips too, so thanks again for those. Thanks 71000, those carriage washer pictures are great! Parkside Kit-build, few details to be fitted once it's glazed and the body is secured to the chassis. This is going to be an air control van, I know the model isn't 100% accurate to the prototype, but from what i've seen, this is pretty close, just the planking on the ends AFAIK. I Repainted this, painted the inside of the shell too, nearly impossible to see though! Undecided on a number yet. This is railmatch green, looks a lot lighter in pictures than in real life, where it is only a slightly different shade to the humbrol. Also just a few more of some weathering attempts: That's all for now, thanks for reading!

+1 for any photos of the H/H2's!

Thanks Steve, I have an airbrush mix that I keep on the go, it's brown, grey and black, and its just added to when it gets low. Lots of dry brushing recently though, using a rust mig powder that I added to some black acrylic, and a healthy dose of thinners, greys, gunmetal, and some black are the main colours on the palette at the moment. Always looking to add colours and ideas, am going to try a few mig powders, and want to try out a few washes too! The subtle looks is what I was going for, I use the airbrush, with only a tiny bit of spray and just go over the model, and make a few extra passes in areas, I have recently used the work printer to treat myself to a few good colour A4 pages of photos of dirty locos, and I use these as a guide every time. Rob, thank you, and those look excellent! I'm still refining my colour choice for track dirt that's seen on coach underframes, what brand do you use? My only concern with the car polish, is that it'll take off the numbering and lettering, the SR coaches have a few of both that are quite small, have you had that problem? Here's 2 more I did today, (the S15 before work, the N15 after) As always, feedback, criticism and tips are welcome! Cheers guys!

I'm still undecided about it though, I would move numbers, but it might add some variety to leave it in olive. That being said, I could wait and see if Hornby do another release (or if anyone discounts them!). Push/pull was a BR fitting then? SEMG tells me 16 of the class were fitted with Westinghouse brakes, can anyone shed some more light for me? (apologies if this has already been covered)

Only staged for this picture i'll mention! I do now realise I probably could've swapped the two other locos over. No thread sadly, this is the Club layout, it's 20+ years old. I might do a post on it if there is some interest though!

Sounds expensive!

Nothing exciting to add today, just a bit of weathering, still not sure about the results. Practicing on Black engines is great though, because if I really stuff IT up I can repaint them without much hassle. The coach is due for a repaint anyways so just wanted to test a few things out on it. I'm considering getting some gloss varnish to weather over, any feedback or tips are greatly appreciated!

I keep the lid on the cup, and i've not had any issues so far, the only issue i sometimes have after lots of spraying, or using too high pressure, is paint drying inside the nozzle on the end, usually a quick twirl with the end of a cotton bud dipped in thinners cleans everything up. I was terrified to airbrush with enamel, but I found that really, just being diligent in cleaning the airbrush and thinning the paint down enough is key (as you probably already know). I'm sure for someone with the skill level you have, acrylic paint should be a breeze! Jack

Hey Chaz, As someone that uses Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively, they are excellent to airbrush with, some paints require little to no thinning, but I find a few drops goes a long way. I also employ a light to speed up drying time, although it drys so quickly anyway, I find that a light dusting (for weathering) drys almost instantly. I only use Vallejo also produce some excellent paints for airbrushing.

I did wonder this, because I had missed out on pre ordering for whatever silly reason. The other theory I was toying with was if maybe due to the massive delays they added more to the production run?

Can anyone advise, What other H classes could 1324 represent (in wartime black if it makes a difference)

Holy hecker I know the LBSCR K class kits are getting rarer, but that's almost eye watering! Although that's nothing in regards to this!

Tony, As my first post in this topic, I just want to first mention it is obviously the thread to be in! Very fast paced, someone always seems to be posting, if I miss a day or more I often have multiple pages to catch up on! You have also inspired me to take my modelling by the horns and begin the process of learning to build (solder) my own kits. A fate of being consigned to opening boxes and repainting/renumbering has begun to lose its appeal. You mention tom Foster, who weathered some of your loco stock, I'm sure he must be the same Tom that was on this forum previously, but has since disappeared. Is he still about? Does he post anywhere? I am happy to drop you a PM for the info required if there are links that cannot be posted here.

Hey Alex, They are a Roxey Moulding product, they come in an etched fret, Which reminds me I actually need to buy a few more. I use these on everything except the inside of fixed coaching rakes, where I use #18 Kadee's. I'll try to remember to take some photos of the way I got them to fit into the O2. I fold them back against the inside of the buffer beam as much as possible, sometimes some trimming is required, but with a dab of superglue/araldite run along the mating surfaces this is yet to fail on me. The O2 had the added benefit of having the chassis a few mm away from the buffer beams on either end, so with some careful filing, the body is a sung fit and the hooks have no room to move even if the glue comes loose. As for haulage capacity, if you refer to the photo below, this Bulleid Pacific has a hook mounted in the tender and showed no signs of any straining or issues with the attached 8 coach train. the train behind the T9, (which I must admit is simply posed for the photo) would be coupled with the screw links and has been run this way before with no issues. It does necessitate sprung buffers on some/all stock though as buffer lock is a real possibility on anything less than the widest curves. I haven't done any massively extended period of running, maybe an hour (max) at one time, so I can't comment on the longevity of this solution. Would probably be worth checking the actual coupling links from time to time to make sure they aren't splaying off the centre piece. Hopefully this answers your questions!

Update! Just a quick one today Picked up a cheap O2, '30182', which was given the usual treatment. I also address the cab interior, as it comes it is a sort of banana yellow, so it was sprayed with Tamiya 'wooden deck tan' which looks cream enough to my eye. Nothing super exciting, Waiting on a replacement detailing pack from Kernow, and it'll be done! LSWR seems to be the flavour of the month for me. Also gave it a light weathering, thoughts and comments are appreciated! Thanks for reading!

Hey Norm, That Adams Radial is fantastic! I saw that Hornby Posted up a photo on their instagram page, job well done! What powders do you use? I recently was able to pick up the Humbrol 'Smoke' powder from a model shop, but they are really hard to find here, and to top it off - I can't get them sent from overseas! (from anywhere i've found) Are you still using automotive polish to get the shiny areas? regards Jack

Having a look at this photo of a G16, (wikipedia photo so should be ok to post), shows they certainly are prominent but possibly the cast ones are a tad over scale, more than anything though I think they are a bit too long?

Hey John, Sadly don't have the book with me here at work. I will have to double check though. Would be nice to know either way!

For anyone wondering. In 'A illustrated history of Southern Push-pull stock' by Mike King, there are a few photos of the LSWR gate stock, one of which shows set 374 (In 1948, I think, without having it to hand) with the Maunsell Pattern wood insert wheels. This means they were kept up until nationalization at least, which may be of use to someone (was to me)

Thanks guys, Appreciate it! Hopefully will make inroads with building my own stock so I can have a few items that are a little more unique than just RTR. 71000 Unfortunately i'm a bit big to fit inside a suitcase these days, Might be some cheap one way tickets??? (does this mean we will see a change of era for Basingstoke?). Truffy, yes, they are HMRS off the Bulleid Sheet.

Thanks for that Pete, I see the gearbox is from Northyard over here in NZ - good to know that I have them local. A rather imposing loco it builds up to be. A shame no-one currently does a kit for it!

Update: Decided to give weathering a go on one of my T9's, the wide splasher variant. I've also been working away on the Z class, which should have paint soon. I haven't weathered anything black so I wanted to get this suitably subtle, still need to tone down the pipework and add a few little bits here and there. This is also currently a non runner due to mazak rot, however I have a replacement motor mount on its way from peters spares . Thoughts and opinions are encouraged! I also took a few photos at the club last night Also finished off the bogie Van B That's all for now, Thanks for reading!

That's the one, Apparently following that website there is also an email address, I'll flick him an email and maybe try giving him a call.

Hey guys, Is ACE still trading? Their website redirects to a web hosting site. I've tried searching the forums but to no avail. Can anyone shed some light? Jack

That J Class Is fantastic, Who produced the kit if you don't mind me asking? Also looking forward to your progress on the layout - followed