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Jack P

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Everything posted by Jack P

  1. Somewhat on the topic of soldering/gluing, specifically whitemetal - I decided to attempt my first kit, I thought I would make it something small and simple to start off with, no complex motion, or tricky parts to work with; So naturally I bought a Nu-Cast kit. As suggested by Tony, I will put this to the group here: My boiler is oval shaped, does anyone have any solutions, or advice for getting it back to a more circular shape? I have included a picture of the offending boiler unit, Thanks in advance for any wisdom imparted! Kind regards Edit: before I forget, can anyone tell me if these are insulated?
  2. Just a quick update tonight, N15x unpacked, and all of the bits i'm using from the kit sorted into baggies. Cleaned up the frames and cleaned up the edges I plan to get the frames assembled first and get a nice free-rolling chassis, then get the body sorted. While I'm waiting for a chassis jig to turn up I'll be working on the boiler castings, getting them as round/square as possible, then i'll attempt to whitemetal solder them! Scary! I may have just gone and bought another kit too.. jeez. before I forget, can anyone tell me if these are insulated romfords? Based on my understanding of insulated wheels, I don't think they are - but my understanding could be way, way off! Thanks everybody for all the likes/feedback on the oil burning conversion! As usual thanks so much for reading!
  3. Alex, I'm sure the crew would find it useful! I'm just not sure how prototypical it is. Also it was Bulleid that fitted the electric lights, the whole conversion was done due to the shortage of coal in 1946, so there was an initiative to retrofit oil-burning facilities to a bunch of T9's and N15's. There's some interesting information floating around out there in regards to which engines received it. The N15's were re-instated into service after having the oil burning bits removed, but the T9's were withdrawn. I'm sure I found a photo of an L11 with an oil burner in the tender though, so more research is needed. Sorry Chris, it arrived safe and sound this morning though! Didn't have a chance to look inside the box, but I did manage this quick snap! Update to the Oil burning conversion: The generator is a bit crooked, but it looks fine from regular viewing distances. All she needs now is a number and nameplates, I haven't represented the electric lighting in the cab yet, I need to check some reference photos to see what's present. I will see if I can get to the club at some point soon and pose it there, against a more scenic backdrop! The rivets turned out ok, you can still sort of see the carrier film though. I've ordered some microsol/set to see if that helps with adhesion. I agree with you Broc, I haven't ruled out using them entirely, they are a great idea, just frustrating to use sometimes. Will update more as it happens. Hoping to make a start on the N15x tonight.
  4. Update! I took some advice from Brocp (who's excellent weathering thread you can find here) In regards to what products he uses, so with a few new powders on the bench I gave the M7 another going over: and had another crack at the Adams radial; I feel like i'm getting there, Now I just need to devise a process. Also getting close to finishing off the oil burning conversion. I wasn't able to find many details on the tender tank front, but I know there was one toolbox instead of two. I might've got a bit overboard with the shelf, I figure the crew would need somewhere to put their tea! I'm still not sold on archers rivets. They are a good idea in theory, but they refuse to stick to the surface, I only got these ones to stay with some clear varnish. Pressfix would be a much better idea I reckon! This is where I must admit that this is not as close to the original as I would like. I wasn't able to represent the small wires running from the smokebox 'Halo' to the electric lights, nor could I get the 'Halo' to sit far enough out without going oval. I also think the wire I've used between the front lights is a bit thick. I'm hoping that some paint will hide my sins, not to mention the monstrosity that is the electrical generator that i've made. Will update again soon! Thanks for reading, as usual, any feedback or opinions are appreciated!
  5. Same price as the LSWR gate stock (if you didn't pre-order) and you get one extra coach - Bargain!
  6. Thanks guys, Neil, the oil firing conversion is certainly not something you see often, I printed out some reference photos, and it's always been in my 'roundtuit' pile. i'm glad I made a start! Dave, thanks mate! Being on RMweb is so very helpful, because I can reference other excellent modelmakers, yourself included, and take away tips and tricks from them. I wish I had storage sidings, just storage boxes. I feel it will be a while until I have anywhere permanent to keep things, there is plenty of Malachite though. I will be sure to report back on how the build goes, I note that the kit comes with wheels, but I may replace them still, depending on how good they are. Might bump that reasonable price up a bit though! I also plan to use a Hornby Urie tender, inspired by your current build! Thanks again guys. Will hopefully update soon!
  7. The chassis looks excellent Nile, the grey certainly brings out all of the details.
  8. Tony, I know that the current E4 model breaks down into its component parts, as an alternative you could take a Bachmann E4 and hack it around? You can remove the body from the running plate, then remove the tanks/boiler from the cab, then you could have either: Someone 3D print the E4x boiler Have someone build the boiler out of brass I doubt that either of these would be too complex, it would then just need some fettling with the side tanks, and the boiler fittings added - which you could probably nab from the previous E4 boiler. I know the E4 is an excellent runner and this RTR/Kitbash would be a cheaper alternative to a full kitbuild. There may be other things I haven't considered, but it's a thought!
  9. Quick update, After painting the wheels on '902' I decided to airbrush the spares I had with the recently arrived railmatch Malachite. I think it looks rubbish, maybe it's pre-war malachite? The humbrol Malachite I had was much better, but reacted very badly to the Tamiya Enamel thinners I had, and is now just a gritty paste. I definitely need to mix my own. Painted the whistle on the M7, also gave it a very light weathering. Replacement motor ordered too, so hopefully it will be running soon! Had a Play around with one of my KA tenders, giving the insides a weathering to represent the worn, and sort of rusty look the interior take on. This was really just a practice as I also decided to convert this loco to oil firing. This is the initial tender tank. I'm not 100% happy with it, I think now that I have the measurements I might do another one. I suppose it would also be relatively simple to have 3D printed. but it's ok as an initial test. I also plan to do a T9 at some point too. I found the book 'Urie & Maunsell Cylinder 4-6-0's' to be invaluable as far as research and detail photos, as well as Graham Muz's own model for the top of the tank details (yet to be added). will finish off the tank and then move on to the generator and other gubbins for the 'face'. This example will be renumbered as 748 'Vivien' which was also one of the class that was fitted with a Lematire chimney. I also woke up early Saturday, to escort someone to the airport, which meant I was up in time to bid on an N15x Nu-Cast Kit, Which I won! I'm super excited to receive this, it will be my first proper foray into kit-building. The aforementioned book will also be extremely helpful as it has plenty of detailed pictures of N15x's, which was a pleasant surprise! I am also on the lookout for LBSC oval headed buffers to suit the front, I was thinking that maybe the Markits Oval coach buffers might do, but i'm open to any direction. I'm also looking for where I could get the required lining (black/yellow, post war malachite) - and name suggestions! Thinking of 'Stroudley' at the moment. I also appear to have accidentally bought a full 5 car 1934 Brighton Belle set, completely by mistake... That's all for now, as usual thanks for reading!
  10. Dave, It astonishes me that you can build models to such a high standard, but have not mastered the airbrush! That being said, your brush painting is very, very good. If someone as ham-fisted as myself can use an airbrush, I highly doubt it would be much of a challenge for yourself. Possibly a bit of a learning curve, but I doubt nothing you couldn't handle. Now that I've persuaded you, Let me know how you get on!
  11. Neil, I think the most astounding thing about your modelling is the consistent quality, as exhibited by the picture above. In awe of your work as always! Regards
  12. Hey John, I just use the shortest coupling 'rod' that Kernow provided with the gate stock. I did ask about couplings in the Gate Stock thread and was advised that they wouldn't have been the knuckle type. Just your normal screw-link type, I assume this wouldn't have been too much of a common inconvenience as the stock probably wouldn't have been separated much, i'm not an expert on this though. Thank you re; the wheels, I think they look much better too. Might have to do the rest of the fleet!
  13. Email from Hattons yesterday alluding to a release date of September. Didn't see anything about a pinch of salt, maybe I didn't scroll down far enough though!
  14. Quick update, Made some progress on 902 'Wellington' Have ordered etched plates for this, as well as 912. I painted the wheels, just by hand, and lined the rim with black. It's a bit thick, but I think they look much better than they were. Valve gear made to look like new steel. this will be weathered down though. as even ex-works I doubt that the chassis would've been this tidy. Also had a play with an old Bunnings soldering iron I found. Nothing exciting, attached a PDK whistle to some brass rod to replace the one from my repainted M7 that was missing on purchase. Needs painting to match the pipework around it, then it needs a new motor, and i've just noticed the H on the side of the tank is chipped.. more to do! That's all for now!
  15. Hey guys, AFAIK there were yellow, were they yellow? triangles fitted to the bufferbeams of Ex-LBSC locos to denote route restrictions, I am looking or what locos carried these and if they are available as transfers in 4mm from anyone currently? Based on these images here and here on Mike Morants site, it looks like they maybe weren't uniform in size? Any other information, book suggestions or FYI's on these would be much appreciated! Jack
  16. I agree, Excellent modelling such as your Mick, is relevant regardless.
  17. Prizewinning kit even! Seems like a W/M kit would be the way to go. I did consider maybe purchasing an ACE kit anyways, and then maybe in some years time I will have the skill required to finish it! Thanks for the words of warning guys, I knew ACE weren't great, but I didn't know they were this bad!
  18. Hi guys, I'm after a Hornby N15 or S15 bogie tender, just the body is ok. Not worried about the colour. Needs to be in good to okay condition, not too worried if there is minor damage though. Flick me a PM if you've got what i'm after Kind regards
  19. Hi guys, Maybe someone just has a need for the tender or something, I'm after the chassis of the 2-8-0 WD, ideally DCC, but would be happy with DC. Needs to be running, not worried about paint, but no broken parts ( brake blocks etc) Flick me a PM if you've got what i'm after
  20. I did see that, one sold a day before for about £50 too, it was a bit ruined though. I regret not bidding, but i'm tempted by the ACE models Brass kit for £99.. I know it needs some work being scaled down from the 7mm kit, but it's brass, and it would be new, so I wouldn't need to correct any mistakes.
  21. That's it. Back to Winnipeg!
  22. Don't make me turn this car around...
  23. Tony, I agree 100%, those small details is what really bring the model away from being great to being excellent. Just quietly, there is also what I think is a draincock operating lever, which can been seen in Locoyards photo here, have you replicated this on yours?
  24. Looking good Dave! Are you doing the painting too?
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