Jack P

I wonder if I could find a pin that's the right size and cut the point down and glue them in to represent the buffer change. Could someone measure the diameter of the bigger buffers for me please? Also, does anyone have any info of when adams boilers were fitted to certain members?

I really should've checked that, would've made it much easier to choose a subject to renumber. Seems the buffers are for a very early version of 88, Hindsight is 20/20

Thanks guys. I've been able to determine that 'Beattie' (3)2331 was the only one with round buffers. Some members of the class received straps from the smokebox to the smoke deflectors, although that seemed to be later on in life. I'm fairly sure from studying photos (although more research is always needed) that the buffers were the only difference that 2331 had to other members, does anyone know why?

Cheers bud, luckily this is just a test piece, I have a few spare bits floating around from donor locos. The real struggle is getting the lines straight, any tips? The other hassle is getting those corners right, i'm using 2 pieces with some micro-sol and coercing them into place with a cocktail stick, but they don't look right. I was thinking about that, it's certainly nice to have the tonal difference, especially for patch painting, I may use it actually, just need to find an appropriate subject - The only issue is that i've run out of the humbrol paint, so I need to wait till family either go overseas, or come back, to get my Phoenix Malachite green!

Phoenix Precision currently sell it, which means I have no excuse not to get one.. I tried my hand at lining today, it's not great, but its ok fora first try. It gives me a good idea of what i'm working with, now it's just practice! (Ignore the patchy paintwork - seeing how different the old Humbrol malachite is compared to the new Railmatch acrylic) I also got a coat of primer on the N15x tender. Nothing too exciting!

I've been working on getting the body of the 0395 as square and flash free as possible, so all i need to do when it comes time to solder is give them a quick scrub and give it a go! Luckily I have a 'sacrificial' SEF whitemetal E2 body that I plan to practice with. I've made some progress with the N15x Tender, Might not look like much, but I've nearly got it to the point where I can prime it. I also found the 3 cylinder Vac tanks in the Markits catalogue, They are an excellent turned brass item, although this means I will have these WM ones as spare. That's all for now, waiting on some new tips for the iron and some WM solder before I press on.

Thanks for that Dave, I have been perusing your thread. That DMR Z class looks like a brilliant kit. I'll definitely take your advice for creating a flat surface to work off, the footplate has some odd parts hanging down. I still think it needs some reinforcing underneath, although maybe once the boiler and other parts are attached it will be okay. Do you, or anyone else have any tips for soldering WM? I've read a few guides, and it seems pretty straightforward, low temp, quickly in and out and hopefully no melted castings, but is there anything else? I also managed to find this photo on Mike Morant's SmugMug Click me Which shows the rear of an Oil burning King Arthur's tender! This is such a useful photo - I knew some of the other classes had ladders on the rear of the tender, and electric lighting, but I wasn't sure how the setup was represented. This means I have the final details I need to finish the tender off

Absolutely, thanks Alex, that would be really helpful!

Probably a bad time to ask this, but The lined black 88, would that have had any major changes by the time it received its wartime black with Sunshine lettering? or will this be a relatively simple re-livery.. Fingers crossed!

Courtesy of DLT's thread, I found this photo explaining what you mean, very clear! thank you

Update: Another kit.. I made a start on the frames for this DJH 0395. I'm really impressed with the quality of the whitemetal castings, doing a trial dry run, they fit together well, with minimal correction and cleaning up needed. The only thing I think might be worth doing is reinforcing the white-metal footplate with some brass strip or something like that, as it is very thin in places and I feel like it will have a tendency to bend with handling - does anyone have any tips? I feel like this came out much cleaner than the P4 J class chassis. I also filed down some PCB board to fit between the frame for pickups. My next question, is how do you attach this, and whats the best way to insulate this from the chassis? Why have I started another kit when I have the N15x going? The short answer is that this is the kit I should've started with, maybe even this kit is too big. I don't think that as my first foray into kitbuilding choosing a relatively big loco with older castings and plenty of cleaning up and scratch-building required was the best idea. That's not to say that it's being given up on, I am still working away at the tender, and there is plenty of research to do, parts to find. Plus I need to get used to soldering whitemetal, it will take a back seat for now, but will slowly continue being worked on. I'm sure you (my readers) didn't ask for this, but it gives you some insight into my reasoning. I'll try and get a few snaps of the rest of the kit tonight. Thanks for reading!

I always thought it was 'Boiler Backhead', but I suppose as long as it's understood, i'm happy! Finding cab photos of the K class is just as hard as finding N15x cab photos, What is this 'Brighton Volume 3' you're referring to?

That D3 is coming along at a fair rate of knots. Looks excellent!

Thanks Tony, Makes much more sense after thinking about it a little..

Nick, thanks for that photo, that gives me plenty to go off. Currently looking for a copy of Russell's book you mentioned. Thanks Peter! I didn't realise they were different. I knew about the flared and flat sided version, I need to figure out if they were the same as the donor King Arthur tender i'm using. Holding the tender castings up to the Hornby model reveals they look to be the same.

Hey guys, very rookie question. When measuring the size of a wheel, do I measure the outside flange or the inner rim?

I realise the photo of the model was not in the same position as the prototype photo which makes it hard to compare, turning it side on they look to be the same length, but the radiused ends can be sorted with some gentle filing, I'm just not sure if the tanks are big enough, I'll get my hands on some brass tube and see how I get on. Spent the morning fabricating the missing tender door, not perfect but here's hoping it will pass muster!

Well my Donor King Arthur arrived, so I started stripping it for parts. I also took a quick snap of the tender with the air tanks fitted. From photos, I actually don't think the tanks are big enough. There's a good side on shot here: Click me If anyone has any thoughts on this I would be very interested to hear

I would disagree, looks very crisp and neat - Much like the factory finish only better! Although you seem to have lost a tender toolbox!

Hello collective Southern mind, I'm looking for some detailed photos of the SR N15x class, specifically (3)2331 'Beattie', and if it was different in any way except buffers to the rest of the class, but any detail photos would be greatly appreciated. I'm particularly interested in the Cab layout, and boiler back-head, would this be most similar to a Lord Nelson, due to the Belpaire firebox arrangement? Also interested to know if there were any major differences in the Urie tenders that were fitted aside from the large air tanks? Thanks guys, Jack PS: I have scoured the net for as many usable pictures as possible, and have trawled through the book: Urie & Maunsell Cylinder Locos by David Maidment, if anyone has any other book suggestions please let me know!

Thanks guys. I think I'll probably try and source some replacement wheels and run it fully insulated. My plan is to use the Hornby King Arthur tender, so luckily this is already fitted with pickups - I just need to figure out a reliable way of getting the current to the motor. In that same vein, If I do go with replacement wheels, would I be better off replacing the whole lot or would it be ok to just get 3 replacement insulated ones? (3 of the existing ones are insulated, I just didn't look hard enough the first time!) Thanks Dave, I'm not a big fan of waterslide either. and I've just been coming to terms with some Pressfix transfers that seem to leave a lot of excess glue on the model.. any tips for removing that, or do I just have a dud sheet? As I mentioned earlier, I definitely plan to use pickups wherever possible, the tender is pretty much taken care of, but I don't think i'll bother with the front bogie, I'll have 14 wheels picking up current already. I'm glad you let me know about the 15thou nickel wire, I need to place an order with Eileens for some Low melt solder, so i'll make sure to add that in. I did have a look through your thread recently but I must admit it wasn't for pick-ups specifically. I'll make sure to have another read through while i'm at work tomorrow! (I find this is the best time to catch up on RMWeb, the boss isn't so sure). Thank you and everyone else for your kind words about the Arthur! I took it out to the club today, but foolishly didn't bring my camera, so an iPhone photo will have to do for now! I mentioned having trouble with Pressfix transfers, This is what I was struggling with: The Chairman of my club asked me if I would renumber a spare E4 he had, I happily agreed, and chose the last numerically of the class. Here she is with the detailing fitted, before being returned to her owner today. Finally, I've been burning my fingers! Well actually I haven't really, but my temperature controlled soldering station arrived the other day, so I took the liberty of getting to know it a little better. Coach sides were purchased from a fellow member, and reader of this thread (thanks Phil) And this SECR J class chassis was bought from eBay, but only had the correct frame spacers and parts to be built to P4 scale, that's ok though, spaced out Hornby wheels seem to run just fine! I know they aren't pretty, and i've made a real dogs ear out of the coach side, but I would hate to jump in, guns blazing and ruin the N15x, so they are good practice. I need to get a 'c' shaped bit for the soldering iron next, as I think that will help significantly. That's all in terms of photos for now, I'm working on the Backhead of the N15x, and will order some low-melt solder, I happen to have a Wills Finecast E2 to practice whitemetal soldering on first though! Thanks for reading, and thanks again for all your comments, helpful advice and feedback!

That's looking really excellent Dave, I'm sure Tony will be very pleased!

Chris, I do appreciate your insights! Expect a few PM's from now on.. your notes are obviously better than mine! Now to see if I can remove those wing plates..

Thanks Phil, I'm not happy with some of the compromises, but until I get better, it'll do! Glad I got the chimney right! I'll have to have another look, it was late. I was thinking of going fully insulated too though. Does it make the wiring side of things easier? Edit: For all those asking, the chimney is a PDK item, used here on 900 'Eton'

Thanks for the replies Re: the Romfords, I can confirm that none are insulated, I do wonder if it might be worth my while getting some insulated ones, I haven't really paid much mind to the idea of electrical pickup. Chris, If I don't laugh i'll cry! No, thank you very much! I have quickly amended the issue: Although I need to tweak it slightly and then go over again with the airbrush. I had no idea that there were West Countries that were a part of this, which two were they?