Jack P

I've already got one N15x, don't know how i'd justify 2! You think too little of me though, I just wanna help out my mate!

PDK still offer kits for this variety. But I would love to be able to focus my kit-building elsewhere, Fingers crossed for a mid year announcement maybe? Having said that, Hornby still haven't given the original cab on the light Pacific's a look in. Which to me is confusing because those LP's are very popular, surely a slightly retooled model would fly off the shelves? Many of the original cabs lasted into the 50's, 21C115 Exmouth didn't have hers replaced until 1957. Which of course, they really weren't, despite what Bulleid said.

I'll be honest, I've read much more of the latter. I haven't tried one myself (yet), but as you right say, they must be buildable - here's the proof! Does the motion work through the footplate? It sort of looks like it. It would be a very cool thing to reproduce. I spoke at length with @Chuffer Davies recently about creating his own etches. He drew up and had etched a fantastic replacement chassis for the new Dapol mogul. If one is willing to learn how to do this, pretty much any prototype is available to those who are (both interested and dedicated enough). In addition to this, once the costs from the first run have been recouped, the subsequent runs have a reduced cost. I mention this, not specifically with an eye to profiting, but with a view to 'crowdfund'. Mike Edge seems to have some of the most reasonably priced kits in the land, often producing bespoke etches (from what I understand) for some very unique models he is asked to build. The slightly more difficult bit is the turnings/casting and all the little bits and pieces that make up the rest of a 'kit'. Nothing insurmountable though. I bet there would be, the LSWR derived locos seem to be very popular subjects.

You know where to send it when it's complete! If you manage to get some info on numbers/livery styles, I can probably get it 'finished' in that sense for you too. That way I can apply the transfers and seal them in when I seal the teaking. No pressure though.

Thinking of you Gordon. Wishing a successful recovery, recent update very much appreciated.

I find those bits to be supremely handy also. You've made fine work of those injectors, it's those final details that really bring the model to the fore.

I would apologize for this being off topic, but as this thread moves so fast the topic may well be NPC again before I have a chance to blink. I recently finished this Five79 Pigeon Van: It's probably not 100% accurate, but it's close enough for me. I added some extra bits and pieces and replaced the footboards with some much thinner ones from plastic card. I'll probably replace the buffers with sprung ones if I can find any that look suitable. Ignore the errant screw coupling.

Another brief update. Pigeon Van is now complete and ready to enter service. Buffers will probably be swapped for some sprung ones - once I can find some that are appropriate!

Thanks Alex, I probably didn't describe it accurately. I mean the sides extending down past the top of the sole bar, overhang in the vertical sense opposed to the horizontal. Does that clarify? Yes, the T14 was a bit of a bargain. Especially as it came with wheels though these will be replaced with Gibsons. I think my justification is that for my 'eventual' layout, there will be a scenic section that could be 'somewhere' in southern England, avoiding the need to limit myself so heavily.

A few updates: 0395 After seeing DLT's work on the 0395 for Beaminster Road, I decided to grab mine off the shelf and check how far I'd managed to get. Mike Edge and DLT had remarked on the cab cutouts looking wrong. As such, I had already decided to make a new cab. I also really liked the look of the members of the class that later received Ex-LCDR M3 boilers. On a slighlty foolish impulse, I also ordered one of the Martin Finney Adams 3300 Gal tenders, from Brassmasters. The brief was now: M3 boiler, Round spectacle cab, Adams 3300 Gal Tender. Luckily 3506 is exactly the loco I'm after. This meant it was time to start cutting. I had a pair of 0395 frames from Alan Gibson, which were an excellent starting point, I added a riveted ashpan to this arrangement. Next was to mark out the new running plate on some PCB. This isn't something i've done before, but now is as good a time as any. I also cut some brass tube to form the new smokebox. This is a first draft of sorts as The front plate will need to extend down to meet the footplate on a revised version. My intention had been to add brass cut to size on top of this (effectively making the sides of the PCB the valances). I've hit a bit of a snag though, the PCB i'm using is a bit thick, which means the brass would further compound the issue, making the locomotive sit too high on the frames. The 5'0" drivers from AG, while only being a fraction smaller, probbly compound this issue (they don't have 5'1" drivers that suit). Next steps; - I'm considering adpating a Comet 4F chassis to suit instead of the AG frames, the AG ones are great, but the guard irons on the front are wrong, nothing insurmountable, but I think the 4f chassis looks better. - Source some thinner PCB and re-cut the footplate - Rework the smokebox (everything posed together here, with the kit's WM cab) It's gone back in the box until the tender arrives. Although, the Finney kit is 110 parts... which is, daunting. Ex- SECR Continental I happened across a box in my stash of kits, upon opening I found some forgotten Worsley Works scratch-aids for an Ex-SECR Continental. Some time at the bench on Sunday resulted in two bare sub assemblies. Chassis, and body. Though I'm'm not convinced I've done it right as I can't tell if the sides should overhang the solebars? I've added a spacer in the middle to keep everything square, I beefed up the queen posts with some scrap etch. Helping me not; 1. bend them by mistake, and 2. making the depth look a bit more convincing. I'm still working on the position of the V hangars, it really looks like the D.427's had these on the outside of the queen posts, photos are scarce though. The kit comes with some, and I also have some spare, shorter Roxey ones. The rest of the bits underneath I have whitmetal components for. The battery boxes need handles added and then will be fixed in place. An order to Roxey for some bogies will be next. I'm not sure what the best option for a Roof is, I'm thinking brass sheet rolled and then cut to size might be the best, and the strongest option. Lots left to do. Jidenco T14 Quite how i'm going to justify a T14 on the Central/Eastern section in 1947, I don't know. But I really like the look of these things, and when this was advertised on Ebay as INCOMPLETE, (despite having all the etches needed for the Maunsell rebuilt version) I had hoped it would go for a song. I've read much about this brand, so have some idea of what to expect. Further updates in due course!

I can see it from both sides, If it was more cost effective for me to use the DJH box when commissioning a build - then it would be a no brainer. Conversely, I value my own time at nothing (well, not nothing, because that's a bit self deprecating) but I can recognize I'm still learning and if it takes me 1-2 hours to assemble and fettle a (say) Highlevel box to work nicely, then I'm willing to take that time. It's beneficial that a HLK box/motor is about half the price of the DJH unit, but the priority is still a good quality item that works well - you wouldn't use a whitemetal chassis with an integrated motor mount just because it was cheap.

Off the top of my head for the Southern the Q 0-6-0, K 2-6-0, U/U1 2-6-0's are some of the most prolific, they also seem to top Wishlist polls. Those aside there is still a fleet of other Ex-SECR/LSWR/LBSC and a few SR built types that could be produced. In terms of availability there is a PDK Q kit, which I expect would be pretty good given their other offerings. There is the SEF U/U1 kit but it leaves much to be desired. The DJH kit is discontinued and while better than the SEF kit, still isn't perfect. There are a few Ex-LBSC K 2-6-0 kits out there, (one of them being the K's Kit) but none are currently in production, and much like the other kits mentioned they could be better. Nothing insurmountable, but a fair bit of remedial work/scratch-building to get them up to an acceptable standard.

I know it doesn't mitigate factory 'errors', but Brassmasters is working on a replacement set of cylinders/motion. http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/dapol_43xx.htm In addition to that, replacing the front Pony wheel shouldn't be too difficult.

Nicely done Tony. "Chunking it down" into manageable segments is a very measured approach. I also like that entire 'trains' will share the same weathering. Keen to see what 2038 Looks like, mine has only received a coat of gloss so far!

Not needed! These photos are excellent, would it be rude of me to request some more (upon your return)?

Does anyone know why the Southern didn't get on-board with this design also?

Jack, That photo of 30567's backhead and cab interior is unbelievably useful, as 567 is the specific loco i'm planning to convert my own 0395 into. Thanks for sharing.

My vote is also for the T9's!

I don't know if I agree entirely with that. I feel like if someone is interested enough to have a go at building their own points, might also be interested enough to have a fiddle with back-to-backs if it improves running. It also requires much less commitment than EM or P4. Anyway - Waynes product looks excellent, and the imminent release will no doubt quell many questions and queries mentioned thus far.

You may be severely overestimating my ability.. While I agree with much of what has been written, I think it's discussion like this that encourages me to try. I've not built track before, but I see Waynes kit as being an excellent starting point in that arena. If the range expands to cover everything I need - Fantastic! If there's something more complex, it will probably encourage me to give it a go.

I also think that where there is a new-ish tooling of a RTR loco available, I would rather invest my time in kit-building something that isn't available RTR. Lots of the new tooling locos out there are starting to be not only better than what the average kit-builder could achieve, but fundamentally better than the kits that are available, and in some instances, the only option (as there is no kit available). Most of my RTR locos are pretty heavily modified anyway, which still gives me a degree of 'I did that' satisfaction.

I've not seen ultrascales in the flesh, I assumed from the indented axle ends they were them. It occurs to me now that Mike possibly added the indentations.

This is extremely useful, Until the above diagram was posted I had no idea what a set was. What is the generally accepted way of forming the set when constructing points?

Do you have just the one airbrush Tony? I bought a second one a few months back and am now looking at possibly obtaining a third (this is by no means a 'brag') but I find that as I tend to use the two different airbrushes for different things - it also means I have a spare if one of them doesn't want to play ball. Those bolsters looks really nice, I reckon you should just weather one so the number is entirely unreadable.

That looks really excellent Mike. Those bars on the window are pretty full on, is each one 8 seperate bits, all bent and soldered to shape, or is it an etch? Also are those Ultrascale wheels? They look very high quality, I like the indented axle ends.