RMweb Gold big jim Posted December 29, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 29, 2015 (edited) had an evening at the workbench tonight so decided to make a start on a DBSO conversion from a Hornby BSO, (one of the new ones), dropped a few balls on the way as there is no instructions for the kit to tell me what bits are what so i did a bit more work than i needed to with filler, anyway i was just planning on making a start but ended up virtually finishing it to a point where i can prepare it for painting its going to be finished as 9708 which is the dbso i passed out for traction on, its one of the generator fitted units so has an extra grille, it also has a UV rig fitted to the end so i'll need to model that once completed the kit http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/D9DC9031-3D14-412E-98CC-DBCC36A34306_1.jpg first job, separate the body from the chassis http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/9C9DFB46-8EBD-48C0-9CD8-F512D2844D14_1.jpg then out with the glazing, thought i'd struggle given the amount of glue but it came out very easily once i got a blade between the glazing and body http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/7B56DA11-162F-42FE-ADBA-0B0ED87ED0A6_2.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/3FFBDD4F-4C4C-489D-9339-E7FA5079A544.jpg popped both gangway connections off, one as the kit will replace it, the other for when i paint the shell http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/44EDDDD2-1076-4DE9-92FC-00A4CDDE7DCB_1.jpg part of the kit is a template for marking off the windows that need cutting http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/83C3F7F0-D119-41DF-8C5B-211EDFF86509_1.jpg removed the raised detail on the new cab end http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/C1F22824-F796-4FC9-94C2-CF05BB026402.jpg and the sides http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/1EB9D388-CD7E-45CA-9FA6-DC100EDF5EC2.jpg brass filler piece for the end, the body needed the top of the gangway trimming a touch for it to fit flush http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/918931B9-2074-4399-900C-5F00332DCFFB.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/3226189C-E6E0-4B06-8AB9-54B09C9931F1.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/81D729F3-601B-464F-9A82-5DFC207DA493.jpg this is where i dropped a ball, i glued a piece of plasticard behind the windows that needed filling on one side http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/3CA33B1A-CE53-4735-B57E-47987D00B746.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/1291D64C-0E0A-42D6-9A77-7E1450083C57.jpg before i filled the windows i used the template to mark out the new windows http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/EBFDF2AF-58C4-48DE-91C6-1C44D286F528.jpg drilled the corners then scored between the holes http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/6200A4A8-833C-4DA9-B800-42270FA4A578.jpg and popped the windows out http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/1EBDA04F-5EB0-4385-8FD0-E0845F8ABA4B.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/C4C92589-FD0A-47F2-8EA1-93AEBABEF490.jpg so back to the dropped ball, i filled the windows that were not needed http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/AD8FB8B1-F3D7-426F-B167-091A62EF0479.jpg but it turned out one of them actually needed removing completly to fit the generator grille http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/EDA77A87-0DB4-4983-B62C-00C101107801.jpg the grille is super fiddly but well worth the effort once finished you have to fold it up and fit each slat individually, i have secured them with superglue http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/3B84BAA4-29AB-472D-9969-C769C72378B7.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/15A7A87F-E8F3-420A-A50D-45D533D085A7.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/E61A3184-026C-42A3-B226-F23109D38A51.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/DE51A820-A589-4F51-8A93-D241CBA5699F.jpg and in place, you can also see dropped ball number 2, i didnt need to actually fill the new door window as there were etches in the kit that allowed me to reduce the width of the existing window, i used them anyway http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/CD6CD52D-7650-4A03-846D-A1047891DF46.jpg i scored the door using the template and cut away the lower step http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/FA2341E3-E2D2-4783-8E10-E002CAA01E7D.jpg the confusion over the window blanks was because there are a couple for saloon windows and i thought the ones for the cab end were spares depending on which particular DBSO you are modelling so on to the ends, added the window frames http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/E9C25DF3-AE8C-4126-A442-8176E674AD6F.jpg and the light housings http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/9E390B2B-B811-4B6E-871E-E8F775D332E5.jpg then onto the plough, its a 2 part unit, again superglued together http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/C3684415-E236-445A-97CD-63C5AA4AB340.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/509843DC-1A94-43F3-8BB1-A5EA44ACC281_1.jpg and in place http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/331A779C-5BE8-4DC3-B281-9D2B760210A3_1.jpg ready to be taken to the paint shop, you can see the saloon window blanks in this picture, for some reason i forgot to photograph that stage http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/0E22901A-7BC9-4DA7-91AB-E6C0BA487EBF.jpg mini me posing by my handy work http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/002921EC-4075-4429-8B05-83CDE785A57F_1.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/C683D775-AD84-468B-8035-1132DBCB8CEC.jpg grille side, the saloon window doesnt look flush in the picture but it looks better in real life, looking at prototype pictures its not flush anyway http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2014%20album/AC715C85-298F-483A-8A74-4014571A8C54.jpg before priming i need to rub down some of the brass parts with a fibreglass brush to remove any superglue residue as well as the usual paint prep, once primed i'll be able to see any areas around the new windows that may need filing down slightly then once its done i will seek a bit of advice from mick on how to make the UV lighting rig for the end, depending on how it comes out i may look at getting jason in north wales to fit me a set of working head/tailights to it obviously its not of a 'newbryford' standard but for a few hours work im very happy Edited February 27 by big jim 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 You have made a very good job of the build Jim. The instructions were attached to the email I sent you after I had posted your order. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted December 29, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 29, 2015 D'oh, never noticed, it was a nice simple build though, just hope i can paint it to a good standard, not like i will have much masking to do! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted December 29, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 29, 2015 That's looking quite good so far Jim, and not bad at all for an evenings work - especially when you must have spent half the evening posing it for the photos and uploading them here! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdw7300 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Looks great Jim. Having had a long chat with Newbryford at DEMU, a DBSO is on my (long) list of "one day" projects, so this thread will be really helpful. Many thanks for sharing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted December 30, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 30, 2015 Decided to revisit the kit before work as i wasnt happy with the saloon blanking plates when compared to prototype pictures, pictures of the real thing appear to show the window pane blanked off and the frame still in situ rather than completly flush so i removed the brass panel And refitted the glazing, i will have lost the frame relief but i dont think it will be that noticable once painted up Ive got to clean away the glue residue around the window before painting too Got the paint earlier as well, the hard bit is going to be finding the time to do it 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted January 1, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 1, 2016 Decided to revisit the kit before work as i wasnt happy with the saloon blanking plates when compared to prototype pictures, pictures of the real thing appear to show the window pane blanked off and the frame still in situ rather than completly flush so i removed the brass panel Jim, Yes the DBSO's still retain the window frame - I've used a piece of EE/Shawplan Laserglaze to blank the window. The coach will benefit hugely from a set of Laserglaze anyway! Keep up the good work. Happy New Year, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
86902 Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Nice work Jim Keep it up Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted January 12, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 12, 2016 Give the body a rub down and coat of railmatch aerosol primer earlier, got a few bits to tidy up and once the paint is 100% dry i'll give it another rub down and a final coat of primer through the air brush, the main stumbling issue is the weather really! The primer has run a little bit, nothing on the bodyside but its pooled round the tumblehome in places so i need to rub them back, hopefully the 2nd coat of primer gia the airbrush at a lower pressure than a spray can will give me a nice finish Might try and fabricate an nrn pod out of plasticard for the roof too before the next coat, im sure mick can provide me with a decent pic via the thread 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted January 12, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2016 Might try and fabricate an nrn pod out of plasticard for the roof too before the next coat, im sure mick can provide me with a decent pic via the thread For some strange reason, I haven't got any clear NRN roof pod pics......... But a quick flickr search for 9708 found this Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted January 18, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2016 Well i gave it a coat of paint today, not very sucessuflly i might add so im going to rub it down a touch and give it a 2nd coat some point later in the week, i think a major issue was the weather, not really warm enough (well thats my excuse anyway!) First up i painted the ends with network rail 'yellow ends' i think, the label had rubbed off! That was acrylic paint that went on beautifully with no runs, the 2 vertical lines appeared after i demasked it after painting the sides I then painted the roof grey, normally i would do the light colours first but being as this was also acrylic i decided to do it next, again went on lovely with no runs, unfortunatly when i demasked it some yellow had got onto it, dont know how as i never sprayed yellow near it! The reason i left the sides til last was i was using enamel paint as thats what my only pot of sunshine yellow was and it went on awful, one side wasnt too bad But the other side had numerous runs Of course after i demasked it i discovered that the 'yellow end' paint was infact NR sunshine yellow as you cant see any difference between the sides and ends at all! So im going to rub it down and the 2nd coat will be from the acrylic pot of 'yellow end' paint which went on so much better than the enamel, in all quite pleased with it and i knew i'd have to do some work to it anyway so not overly dissapointed with how its initially come out 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted January 19, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2016 Rubbed it down today ready for another coat of yellow and grey I suspect that the yellow on the roof may have been down to 'operator error' as i also found traces of it on the conservatory door handle too, think i may have got some on my hand while cleaning the airbrush and not noticed when i picked the dbso up! I also rubbed back where the primer had pooled at the bottom of the cab end and formed a ridge once top coated, i will reprime this bit with a brush, wondering whether to fill the top of the gangway with a tiny bit of squadron putty too before respraying? And the other side which wasnt too bad but worth a rub down Hopefully get it done by the weekend 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted January 24, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2016 tidied it up earlier, resprayed it with acrylic paint this time which went on much better, dry brushed a few areas that needed touching up once i inspected it once dry patch painted the roof and added the cantrail stripe and on its chassis, plough painted, handrails painted too still got to add handrails and glazing to the new cab end of the coach, i'll use the template to cut some clear thin plastic to size for the windows, then make an infrared light rig, may even send it off to jason for lights 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted January 31, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 31, 2016 bit more done today first up added handrails made from 0.5mm wire, i then added glazing made from the blister pack the tiny drill bits came in started to add the UV lights to the top then a rig for the bottom light array couple of steps, brake pipes, electrical boxes, ive straightened the lights since the picture though just need to paint them up now, black for the light units and yellow for the rig and brackets, hopefully do that this week 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted February 28, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 28, 2016 I managed to get a coat of yellow on the UV light rig earlier, once that dries I'll refit the light units and other than decals that's the dbso pretty much done, possibly add lights at some point though To go with it Ive decided to do the SGT2 coaches, picked up a couple of 2nd hand Hornby MK2s from cash convertors and C+M in Carlisle last week which will be the basis for the train One coach had the Windows fully blanked off and the 2nd has a couple of blanked off Windows One coach I bought is the older ex airfix moulding with 7 Windows so I have made that into the blanked off coach by simply filling the Windows with squadron putty and rubbing it back flush, I've got to give it a coat of primer to see where I need to fill futher or smooth over but I think it should look good once done, certainly easier than filling each hole with plasticard blanks etc Next up is look at some prototype pics of the other coach and blank off what's needed on that, just one window each side iirc I've also got the model rail genny van to add to the train when it's finished 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWhippyO Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 (edited) Looks great so far! I'm hoping to have a crack at my own DBSO conversion soon, just need to get the kit for it from PH Designs! How difficult was the conversion to do? Cheers, James Edited March 5, 2016 by MrWhippyO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted March 5, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2016 Dead easy, it took me about 3 hours one evening and that's with a couple of mess ups which meant I did more work than I needed to as well Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted March 20, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2016 Continued with SGT2 this afternoon, tried to spray the top coat with my airbrush but I'm having serious problems with it, paint was just coming out in blobs so I gave up and hand painted the bodies with a nice daler and rowney brush and I'm more than happy with the result, actually a better finish than with the airbrush in my opinion!! First up the yellow, the smoothed side coach isn't particualrly well finished regards the window blanking but more than passable for what I want it for, I should have rubbed it back and added more squadron putty after priming it but I'm lazy! The accompanying coach is a better finish Overall view, I've also refitted 2 of the UV lights that had come off (need to make one more) and added the driver's door step (needs painting black) I was going to leave it there but as there was still a bit of light I hand painted the roof's and black ends on both the coaches By now the light had gone so photo with a flash Cantrail, white handrails, 'dusty bin' gauging barrel and decals to add and it's pretty much done 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted March 21, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2016 Some daytime pics Added something I missed off the DBSO, black end as well as painting the drivers step Next up is mask off the cantrails and paint those on and refit the glazing to the windowed coach 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Looks great jim,realy need to make one of these now.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Nice work Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted March 30, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2016 (edited) this afternoon i decided to finally carry on with 37057, i have a zimo chip and custom lighting kit to fit to it, being as i was stuck in the house waiting for british gas to come i thought 'what better opportunity to get cracking' the lighting kit is from jason edmunds (stickswipe on ebay) and ive been dreading fitting it as i cant solder! end lighting unit, markers, headlight and tail lights, surface mount LED's pcb on the loco, an early Bachmann one with no lights at all to which i added the cables that the wiring kit will attach to all stripped down as i was going to be fitting a speaker at the same time so using a circle cutter compass i cut the hole for the speaker which i wasnt happy with as i felt the magnet was a bit too close to the motor so i cut a square hole in the other tank instead and before you ask why didnt i just make the existing hole square, erm yes, never thought of that til i just started uploading the pictures! added a plasticard 'wall' and a couple of ledges inside the speaker enclosure to make me a box speaker loosely in place and with a lid on wires connected, round hole refilled with a plasticard disc up through the lid weight cut in half and refitted speaker sealed in with bathroom sealer pcb refitted to the chassis speaker cables run through the chassis bogies back on zimo chip fitted and ready to roll so out to the shed i go, power up, zimo bursts into life, go to move off, nothing, sounds ramp up fine but no movement, hmmm, not good anyway stripped the loco back down while in the shed and narrowed the problem down to being the pcb, i couldnt get movement with the zimo, a gaugemaster chip or after putting a blanking plate in, however if i selected loco 0 on the dcc controller and touched the motor wires to the track it powered up, similarly touching those wires direct to the ones coming from the bogies (sat on the track) and you got power picked the whole lot up and back in the house where i simply discarded the pcb and wired the chip straight to the loco wiring, i think i may have caused the issue as i attempted to solder the 3 wiers to the underside of the pcb, see told you i couldn't solder motor and pickup wires are below the insulation tape and those above are for the lighting kit which im not going to continue with until ive tested the loco again tomorrow as its too late tonight and ive got work early in the morning Edited March 30, 2016 by big jim 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Looks prity alright job to me Jim... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold big jim Posted June 5, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2016 (edited) Decalled up the DBSO earlier with railtec's dedicated sheet, I was hoping to do the sgt too but the smaller of my 2 children flattened the battery on both my iPad and iPhone so I couldn't get any refrence pics up!Then I added some s-kits etched disc brakes to it, not that noticeable but what the heckThis is a normal wheel/bogieAnd with the inserts addedPicked this up from the 2nd hand stall at demu on Saturday as well as a set of decals and plates to renumber and update itIt then became this, DRS 37401And finished with etched plates added, new style ohle flashes, yellow axle box covers, red bufferbeams, red springs, yellow headcode box, white lamp irons and for a nice finishing touch white rimmed wheels and of course ploughs, missing a few bits like an extra lamp iron above the headcode and drs multi socket but i'm more than happy with itI also swapped sound chips in my 70 to a Leggoman one but have discovered the speaker housing won't fit, began to fit up my Heljan 33 with a Dc kits custom fuel tank housing only to find out I've been supplied with a V4 speaker instead of a 3.5 one the to top it all off the sound chip I took out of the 70 is a 21 pin and the loco I wanted it to go into is an 8 pin so I'll have to find something else to fit it to now! Edited June 5, 2016 by big jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted June 5, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 5, 2016 Picked this up from the 2nd hand stall at demu on Saturday as well as a set of decals and plates to renumber and update it It then bacame this, DRS 37401 I also swapped sound chips in my 70 to a Leggoman one but have discovered the speaker housing won't fit, began to fit up my Heljan 33 with a Dc kits custom fuel tank housing only to find out I've been supplied with a V4 speaker instead of a 3.5 one the to top it all off the sound chip I took out of the 70 is a 21 pin and the loco I wanted it to go into is an 8 pin so I'll have to find something else to fit it to now! Interesting looking coaches in the background.................... Cheers, Mick 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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