RMweb Premium Nile Posted July 19, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 19, 2015 Apart from the brass paint, which is Phoenix enamel, all the paint I've used is acrylic. For the metal parts, such as handrails, I use Polly Scale paint as I find it works best. Detail parts are stuck on with either superglue gel or glue'n'glaze. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted August 2, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 2, 2015 To close off this topic I thought I'd post a picture of the loco in a more scenic setting. I posted some more in my kitbuilding workbench topic. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 I've just read the whole two pages, what a good blog post. Also have you tried using Halfords Plastic Filler Primer (The Yellow one)for smoothing WSF? I find that works better than just paint although what you have done seems to work well too. I find wetting the abrasive paper (P600 & 1500 grit I use) helps turn it into a cream which fills those gaps nicely, small areas are had at with an old gummed up needle file. only problem with WSF smoothing is you need to give it a few layers. You've done a good job of this, for the spring wire at the rear pony did you ream the axle holes out slightly to give a little wobble and does the spring cause much running friction as it is essentially operating like a brake? How's the whole engine run? Flywheels are a boon that's for sure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted December 27, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 27, 2015 Thanks Knuckles. I've only given it a test run on some plain track, so I don't know how well it handles points etc. The pony wheels ride in slots rather than round holes, with about 2mm movement up and down. The force from the spring wire is quite light. When I get round to running this on a layout it may need some adjustments, hopefully nothing drastic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 (edited) Thanks Knuckles. I've only given it a test run on some plain track, so I don't know how well it handles points etc. The pony wheels ride in slots rather than round holes, with about 2mm movement up and down. The force from the spring wire is quite light. When I get round to running this on a layout it may need some adjustments, hopefully nothing drastic.Thanks. I'm interested in the arrangments as I'll be working on compensated or spring ready chassis options at some point but currently unsure what the best option would be. How many printed loco's made? Might have a look to find them. I'm guessing you're quite experienced with Shapeways. Ok cool. Edited December 28, 2015 by Knuckles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted December 31, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 31, 2015 This is the only complete (body and chassis) printed loco I've completed so far, others are in the works. My own creations are mostly rolling stock, with a few parts for RTR conversions. I've given this loco a test run through some points and all seems fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 This is the only complete (body and chassis) printed loco I've completed so far, others are in the works. My own creations are mostly rolling stock, with a few parts for RTR conversions. I've given this loco a test run through some points and all seems fine. Ok that's cool. Thanks for explaining. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
benachie Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 I have a old Stephen Poole whitemetal F5 to build. I wonder if the chassis (if it can be bought separate?) would be upto the extra weight?. The Stephen Poole kit must have been produced from a Skinley drawing and is several mm short in footplate and tanks so would need to be stretched to fit the scale Shapeways chassis. The John Edgeson (Isinglass) drawing (No 4/365) will give you the correct dimensions. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 The Stephen Poole kit must have been produced from a Skinley drawing and is several mm short in footplate and tanks so would need to be stretched to fit the scale Shapeways chassis. The John Edgeson (Isinglass) drawing (No 4/365) will give you the correct dimensions. Alan Yes I found that when the Shapeways chassis arrived , it was miles out . It was ebayed and sold on!!. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 That's very impressive, especially from a 3D print. Well done! JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 Some very nice work there! It's giving me inspiration. Carry on the good work sir! Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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