Les1952 Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 A couple of pics of the latest arrival on "No Place"- N.C.B. No.51 (Stephenson & Hawthorn works number 7101 of 1943) with Lambton cab. Donor loco is an LNER liveried one to get plain black with no smokebox numberplate. RT Models cab kit made to fit a Hornby J94. Only a little filing needed to get it to fit the DJM WD. Assembled for me by David Temple as I'm too hamfisted to get those curves right- he described it as a litttle sod to bend to shape. Lettered by me - it won't get tank lettering as I remember No.51 as either not lettered or too filthy to read - either is possible. It has since had couplings added and the gold bits below the footplate painted matt black. Les 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class8mikado Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) What time period would the MSC model be good for? Jim Can I add to that, which of the non BR liveries would have been around in the 1950's , (am hoping that some of these will eventually be available in N Gauge) Edited November 28, 2017 by class8mikado Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Griffin Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Just picked one of these beauties up in the Rails advent event, ive always liked J94's and cannot wait to get my mitts on it! Although I will have to resist repainting it like my ageing Hornby model. Either in the London Brick livery shown below or the Army camouflage one that has been part way through a repaint for the best part of 3 years! Any chance you could release this fictional version Dave? It'd save me a repaint! Best Regards Dan 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted December 1, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 1, 2017 Just picked one of these beauties up in the Rails advent event, ive always liked J94's and cannot wait to get my mitts on it! Although I will have to resist repainting it like my ageing Hornby model. Either in the London Brick livery shown below or the Army camouflage one that has been part way through a repaint for the best part of 3 years! lbc j94.jpg lbc j94 2.jpg Any chance you could release this fictional version Dave? It'd save me a repaint! Best Regards Dan and then do a slightly darker “ Accrington Brick”one too :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thebigshot Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 Hi Dave Sorry stupid question time again I was just woundering when or if there's an expected release date for the relivereyed J94 Thanks Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendlerail Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) I have just purchased the Hattons Ltd edition "Hurricane" and It is cogging even on the Rolling road. Has anybody found a solution? Very frustrating https://youtu.be/OHNt4wYxLqE Edited January 14, 2018 by pendlerail Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Chris Chewter Posted January 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14, 2018 Have you oiled it? As far as I can remember, you need to put a little drop through the three holes underneath the loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendlerail Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Did that just before and ran it a while before the video Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM Dave Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Did that just before and ran it a while before the video I’d oil it again, maybe some on the back of the wheels where the axles go into the frames, and lastly the con rods where they attach to the wheels. If could be something silly like some swarf that needs removing and wil rub away, or it’s just the geets need a bit more time for meshing. Can I suggest you run it for 30-45 minutes each way on a moderate speed then 15 minutes at a lower speed and see if it beds in? Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendlerail Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Thanks will try that Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 I have just purchased the Hattons Ltd edition "Hurricane" and It is cogging even on the Rolling road. Has anybody found a solution? Very frustrating https://youtu.be/OHNt4wYxLqE The DJ models J94/Austerity chassis is one of the most free running chassis I've come across. With the motor decoupled from the geartrain, given a slight push it will happily roll down a 1 in 30 incline under its own weight and there lies a problem. The geartrain on mine has between 55 and 60 degrees of free rotation (backlash) Until that backlash is either eliminated or substantially reduced cogging, especially on downgrades with a trailing load (as observed by PMP above) will always be a potential problem. As only a few have reported this problem I assume the backlash on most is small enough not to affect running qualities? Try running yours in and I hope it improves. Of the three I've had through my hands they all exhibited the same cogging problems. Good luck too you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendlerail Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Ok, I tried the above and no joy, however I thought I would remove the DCC chip and try on DC, Runs much better not stopping still a bit jerky but moving, I was using a Hattons 6 pin chip? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM Dave Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Did you turn the back EMF on the decoder off? By not doing so it will cause the stuttering you describe. Sorry I don’t realise you were running dcc. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendlerail Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Didn't change anything except the address, NCE power cab by the way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) Ok, I tried the above and no joy, however I thought I would remove the DCC chip and try on DC, Runs much better not stopping still a bit jerky but moving, I was using a Hattons 6 pin chip? Does the hattons chip have an adjustable CV for use with coreless motors. I tested mine with a Zimo MX621N and MX649 N chips. The chassis ran very roughly on level track with the "out of the box" CV's. Altering the CV's to suit the coreless motor transformed the running qualities. CV's 56 & 9 think? I don't know if the Hattons chip provides a CV adjustments to change beween Coreless & Iron Core? This post says a lot about the BEMF problem with coreless motors. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/4487-best-decoder-for-coreless-motor/&do=findComment&comment=34136 P Edit: Forgot to say; I also use a powercab for control but JMRI via a sprog to make any adjustments. I don't suppose there is a JMRI profile for the Hattons (whoever the primary manufacturer is?) chip as yet. Edited January 14, 2018 by Porcy Mane Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP Posted January 14, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 14, 2018 All six I have had through my workbench exhibited this cogging on downhill gradients. All of them on DC, and the only example I fitted with a chip made no difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendlerail Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Cv 61 is BEMF have turned it off to some improvement will have another look when I get the chance thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexl102 Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Hi, Just wondered if there was any reason why the BR/LNER-liveried models generally retail for less than the Industrial liveries? Is it to do with batch sizes produced? I've seen DJM J94s in BR/LNER black for as little as £65-70 but never less than £80 for an industrial. The pattern seems to be the same with Hornby models second-hand too - the industrials always seem to go for more? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted January 15, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2018 Hi, Just wondered if there was any reason why the BR/LNER-liveried models generally retail for less than the Industrial liveries? Is it to do with batch sizes produced? I've seen DJM J94s in BR/LNER black for as little as £65-70 but never less than £80 for an industrial. The pattern seems to be the same with Hornby models second-hand too - the industrials always seem to go for more? desirability is my guess. the industrials so far were limiteds for various shops, BR/LNER were general release. i'm waiting on the MSC one myself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les1952 Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 Hi, Just wondered if there was any reason why the BR/LNER-liveried models generally retail for less than the Industrial liveries? Is it to do with batch sizes produced? I've seen DJM J94s in BR/LNER black for as little as £65-70 but never less than £80 for an industrial. The pattern seems to be the same with Hornby models second-hand too - the industrials always seem to go for more? So far the Industrials have all been limited editions. Ask the same question in a year or so when the "mainstream" DJM Industrial liveried WD saddletanks are out. Les Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted March 20, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 20, 2018 Ian, I very much doubt it's a QC/assembly issue as the locos tested are two different types 14xx/j94 and the J94's came from at least two batches. There's a very easy test to do, a yard of flexi track on a batten raised an inch or so one end. Then place an open wagon filled with a few weights/coins coupled to the loco and see what happens when it descends. Be interesting to see a video of it, people have either only filmed them on the flat, or climbing. I did previously ask someone to post a descending video, to compare to my experience but none has appeared. Edit: I too would love to alleviate the running problems but I'm coming to the opinion that a different drive design is required, or needs to be significantly improved if the models are to be used on layouts with any gradients. My Yellow Peril has developed this stuttering running after just a few circuits. I had run it in on a RR and it seemed OK. Has anything been resolved re this problem? To whom should I refer if I want to ask for a replacement? Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM Dave Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 My Yellow Peril has developed this stuttering running after just a few circuits. I had run it in on a RR and it seemed OK. Has anything been resolved re this problem? To whom should I refer if I want to ask for a replacement? Phil This model might just need a bit more lubrication, try a bit on each axle down the back of the wheel as well as the recommended oiling points in the keeper plate. It should settle down nicely. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 My Yellow Peril has developed this stuttering running after just a few circuits. I had run it in on a RR and it seemed OK. Has anything been resolved re this problem? To whom should I refer if I want to ask for a replacement? Phil After replicating PMPs scenario last summer I tried running mine for the first time last week. Whereas it had run fine on the level under both DC and DCC operation during summer; last week it ran like the proverbial bag of spanners. Connecting a DC controller directly to the Circuit board/Motor side of the chassis everything ran smoothly. Putting a meter from each wheel tyre to its respective lead on the top of the chassis found excessive resistance. I stuck the loco on top of a radiator for a while and the warming up process improved running considerably but not back to what it had been. Next I cleaned the axles. Due to the large amount of sideplay on the axles it allowed me to clean off as much of the lubrication as possible and I also removed as much lubrication as possible from the gear train. This reduced the resistance to zero and returned running to normal. I'm pretty certain the problems with mine was the thickening of the lube due to winter temps increasing electrical resistance combined with the lower torque produced by the coreless motor finding it harder to overcome the additional mechanical resistance of the higher viscosity lube. I'm not saying this is your problem but have a go at cleaning the lube off the accessible parts of the axles. It might improve things. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted April 13, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 13, 2018 This model might just need a bit more lubrication, try a bit on each axle down the back of the wheel as well as the recommended oiling points in the keeper plate. It should settle down nicely. Cheers Dave Thanks dave. I did this a couple of weeks ago and things improved somewhat. Today it was taken to a shunting layout for some slow running tests. It remains there having performed quite well forwards but a bit 'hoppy' in reverse. It is a lot better than it was. Some reports will follow ( I hope). Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shroomy Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 Hi Dave is there any release information on DJMOOJ94-007 Please Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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