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Talyllyn Junction. The Station area has been started!

Jintyman

By Jintyman,
in 7mm+ modelling

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Jintyman

Jintyman

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Well I've actually got the soldering iron out and attacked the CRT Ex-LMS Horsebox by soldering the two ends and the two sides together. I also mounted the captive nuts inside the ends to facilitate the holding of the body to the under frame. I've just plonked it together here, plus the wheels are just loosely held underneath on their carriers, as I still need to blacken them and I'll secure them with their 3-point compensation after the under frame has been painted.

 

post-14906-0-40628500-1454788984_thumb.jpg

 

I'll hopefully get some more work done this next week.

A nice trip out with SWMBO tomorrow, and then beck to it on Monday.

 

Jinty ;)

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Guest bri.s

Guest bri.s

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Great to see some modelling from you jinty,glad your finally stealing a little time here and there

 

Nice work on the CRT

 

Brian

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Jintyman

Jintyman

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Thanks Brian,

 

Yes I'm hoping to get back into it now that I've got used to the demands of work.

 

After a nice trip out to Betws-y-Coed this afternoon, and a bit of surprise sunshine (which didn't last long!!!), I had a couple of hours to myself.

So I duly commandeered the dining room table just to go through all the components for my JLTRT 8750 Pannier kit.

I'd purchased numerous items to assist in the building of the loco, including Slaters cast brass hornguides and brass bearings, Slaters GWR parallel buffers, Premier jointed rods, and plunger pick-ups, an ABC Mini 7S with 30:1 ratio and some JLTRT crank pin nuts.

Here's a view of some of the components:

 

post-14906-0-85853800-1454871696_thumb.jpg

 

I firstly started with the Slaters wheels. I cleaned up the flash off the back and then used some 800 grit wet & dry paper to clean up both the back and the tread, face and flange as well. I then used my Birchwood Casey Perma Blue to chemically blacken the wheels, both front and back. Then I gave them a good wash in soapy water, and thoroughly dried them.

 

Before:

 

post-14906-0-24249000-1454871710_thumb.jpg

 

After:

 

post-14906-0-59742800-1454871721_thumb.jpg

 

 

My next consideration was the compensation method. The kit comes with some lost wax brass castings for the hornguides, but I've favoured the Slaters variety, using the ones with the machined brass bearings. I've seen these used on other projects on RMWeb to good effect.

 

Here's an image showing the difference in the JLTRT ones and the Slaters variety:

 

post-14906-0-17303700-1454871744_thumb.jpg

 

Having never built anything with compensation before, I'm not sure which way to go. 1) Have the rear axle solid and compensate the front two, or 2) Compensate all 3 axles. I'd welcome any advice, Thanks in advance.

 

Finally I crossed a heart stopping milestone, I fixed the Premier rods with a soldered joint from behind, with bated breath and fingers crossed that the solder didn't travel too far into the joint. But it did it perfectly, so sweating over (forgive the soldering pun!!).

 

post-14906-0-37572300-1454871757_thumb.jpg

 

 

I will be doing quite a bit more now that I've started, and somewhat more regularly too!!!

 

Any comments are more than welcome, especially with regards to compensation.

 

Jinty ;)

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Simond

Simond

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David

 

Options for an 0-6-0 are

 

A. Fix one axle (typically the rear) and allow the other two to rock from side to side supported by a central rocking beam. My 57xx is done this way. Very traditional, perfectly acceptable, but the body has to roll from side to side with the track.

 

B. Allow one axle (typically the front) to rock on a central pivot, and have a pair of rocking beams for the other axles. (Although not an 0-6-0, my 14xx has this arrangement with the rear axle rocking). A little more work than A but rather better IMO.

 

C. Spring all axles, set the ride height on screws. Wheels only drop. Means the loco will lurch if it runs up a bump.

 

D. Spring all axles, get it balanced on the springs (my 13xx. Right pain...). Smooth on rough track.

 

E. Continuous springy beams (will probably try this on my yet-to-build 43xx)

 

F. Cop out - rigid chassis (my 45xx - first one I built in 0 - that's my excuse!)

 

If you have decided on compensation, then I'd recommend B as it gives a widely spaced three-legged stool, and the CoG will be well in the middle. All the wheels can move, so it won't lurch if it goes over a bump.

 

I'd like to recommend springing, but I have mixed feelings, based on several locos. Seems rather better on tender locos, the 13xx ended up a bit like a ruddy nodding dog at one point, but having softer springs on the middle axle seems to have fixed that. As I said, I'm inclined to try the CSB solution on my next loco - there is a good treatise on this here : http://www.clag.org.uk/beam-annex3.html

 

Much of the foregoing applies to anything with 6 drivers, with pony trucks or bogies along for the ride, of course.

 

Hope it helps your decision process,

All the best

Simon

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81A Oldoak

81A Oldoak

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To date, I have used 3-point compensation when building 2 or 3 axle chassis. pn the laltter, the rear axle is fixed and driven and the front two axles are flexible and controlled by a central beam. It is very simple to set up, certainly much easier than springing and needs almost no maintenance in service.  Two of the photos show the set-up on my Kerr Stuart Victory 0-6-0T and Rhymney R 0-6-2T. The third photo shows the  compensation on the tender of my Cambrian 15 Class 0-6-0. In all three models the compensation apparatus is home made, as our the hornblocks on the tender. NB, the photo of the tender chassis was taken before it was cleaned and painted.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

post-13142-0-13146300-1455310228_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-26626800-1455310265_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-37713900-1455310341_thumb.jpg

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N15class

N15class

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I tend to use system B in Simons list. I have had no problems and it gives a smooth ride for the loco. I have used sprung frames but they are awkward to set up. I have not used CSB as yet, itisa bit difficult getting the wires here.

 

Which ever system you choose make sure the hornblocks are a nice sliding fit in the guides with no side play, and  0.5mm  is very generous each side of centre for up and down movement. Have fun and do it one bit at a time making sure it's right before going onto the next.

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Jintyman

Jintyman

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Hi guys,

 

Thanks for all the help re: the compensation on my pannier, I'm going to have a good look into Simons list and Chris

s picture list and around the forum for some more ideas (Including your fine builds N15class!!!).

 

Unfortunately having opened up a slot to be getting on with some modelling, I was rushed to hospital on Tuesday with what has turned our to be 'Acute pancreatitis'. Although I'm home now, I feel extremely weak and sore, but it may just be that time to get on the dining room table and make headway with this pannier chassis.

 

I will update when I can, and I will also take a picture of an enamel reproduction sign that I purchased a few weeks ago, which shows Talyllyn Junction with a 45xx sat in platform 2 waiting to leave for Hereford.

 

Thanks again all

Jinty ;)

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Jintyman

Jintyman

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Thanks everyone for your kind words, it is appreciated.

 

This Pancreatitis thing is a bit of a powerful illness. I only went to the Doctors this morning to sort out a prescription, and sat in the car whilst the wife got a few things from our local Tesco.

I spent most of the afternoon snoring on the couch!!!!!  :O

 

Might be a bit slow on the Occupational Therapy thing Chris, but I fully intend to take some advantage when I can.

 

Thanks again

Jinty ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...
Jintyman

Jintyman

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Thanks again everybody for your kind wishes. My recovery is somewhat slower than anticipated, probably a side effect of the ageing process, but I have managed to dig out a JLTRT LMS van kit, Dia 2088 Sliding door with vents.

 

The resin castings (Body and under frame) are nice and crisp, and after a good wash in tepid soapy water and then allowed to dry, I made a start on the under frame. The W' irons have been fitted with the leaf springs, and the V' hangers for the brake rigging have been glued in place.

 

I have chosen an alternative for my wheels on this one, instead of Slaters, I'd ordered a few sets of the 3-hole disc wheels from Model Railway Parts. The wheels are manufactured by Peartree Engineering and are ready chemically blackened and are only £8 per set (inc bearings). They compare very favourably to the Slaters ones, although they are insulated on both sides, the whole wheel disc is metal and then bushed to the axle. This gives them a bit of extra weight.

 

The website details are: www.ModelRailwayParts.com Phone number: 01379608000

No connection, usual disclaimer, just a satisfied customer.

 

Back to the LMS van, after the above work, I have just sat with a file in my hand, filing the runners of the axle boxes so that they slide effortlessly in the W' iron. then I used a 4mm drill in a pin chuck to ease out the holes for the bearings to sit just inside the inner face of the axle box.

I'm sorry I don't have any pictures, I will take some tomorrow. I'm rather tired after my few hours at the WB.

 

More soon

Jinty ;)

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