Talyllyn Junction. The Station area has been started!

[muddys-blues]

Whoa very nice track work there Jints ...... you could even say you deserve a pint of this as it looks the same as the name

 

Edited July 14, 2015 by muddys-blues

[Jintyman]

Thanks Bri, Simond and Muddy's,

 

Craig, I'm beginning to worry as to what sites you're scouring for these pictures you keep finding!!!!!

 

 

 

Lovely trackwork Jinty.

 

May I ask, do you prefer cork to faom underlay and why (I have always used cork as I dont like melting foam with a soldering iron! LOL!!)

 

ATVB

 

CME

Hi CME,

 

I've always used cork, as I find it easily workable, and although it gives excellent sound deadening, once ballasted it has no effect!!!! Therefore, I just take advantage of it for the shoulder it gives you.

This particular cork is extreme to say the least, 4mm self adhesive floor tiles from Ebay, 25 x 1' Sq' tiles for about £20, not bad value at all I thought.

 

Thanks again all for the comments

 

Jinty

Edited July 14, 2015 by Jintyman

[PjKing1]

Excellent track Jinty looks superb!! The self adhesive cork sheets sound interesting to, I wasn't going to use cork but having heard of that I'm tempted again

 

Looking forward to the next instalment mate.

 

Cheers, Paul

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Thanks Bri, Simond and Muddy's,

 

Craig, I'm beginning to worry as to what sites you're scouring for these pictures you keep finding!!!!!

 

 

 

 

Hi CME,

 

I've always used cork, as I find it easily workable, and although it gives excellent sound deadening, once ballasted it has no effect!!!! Therefore, I just take advantage of it for the shoulder it gives you.

This particular cork is extreme to say the least, 4mm self adhesive floor tiles from Ebay, 25 x 1' Sq' tiles for about £20, not bad value at all I thought.

 

Thanks again all for the comments

 

Jinty

Hi Jinty,

 

Thanks - my friend and I use bargain bin cork tiles too.

 

Have you tried using a Copydex type glue which locks the ballast but stays flexible and thus offers sound deadening above and beyond 'Resin W' et al?

 

The Copydex type glues also inhibit the corrosion and 'rot' issues that Resin W and other 'white' glues cause in and around copper-clad trackwork too.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

[Donw]

Very nice Jinty my progress is glacial compared to yours.

Don

[bescotbeast]

Marvelous work on the trackwork Jinty, the layout really flows smoothly. Have you got elves that appear in the night and work for you?

             Simon

[Jintyman]

Marvelous work on the trackwork Jinty, the layout really flows smoothly. Have you got elves that appear in the night and work for you?

             Simon

I wish Simon!!!

 

I don't consider myself as a fast worker, I just plod along, too long in the tooth for speed!!!!

 

Thank you all for the comments/ratings

 

Jinty

[P.C.M]

Whoa very nice track work there Jints ...... you could even say you deserve a pint of this as it looks the same as the name

 

dogs ######.jpg

Nice one, I have a Tshirt for the same beer.

 

Cheers Peter.

[P.C.M]

Hi David,

Just been catching up, the trackwork looks superb. Good luck with the coach it's always useful having some good info to help the build.

 

Cheers Peter.

[Marcus 37]

Sorry Jinty

Keep over looking you're thread as it's not in the main layout topics. That track work is seriously impressive. I can see now why you took the plunge into O gauge. The toad looks great too. Lovely modelling all round.

Cheers

Marcus

[railwayrod]

Great progress Jinty. I agree with CME re the use of copydex as it remains flexible and deadens sound really well. Try gluing the cork down with it and them using it diluted fix the loose ballast using an eye dropper and I am sure you will notice a vast difference from PVA. Like everyone else I think your trackwork looks terrific.

 

Rod

[Jintyman]

Sorry Jinty

Keep over looking you're thread as it's not in the main layout topics. That track work is seriously impressive. I can see now why you took the plunge into O gauge. The toad looks great too. Lovely modelling all round.

Cheers

Marcus

Thanks Marcus,

 

As soon as there is suitable progress with the layout itself, I will be starting a thread in the 'Layouts' section.

For now though, this will be my WB, well sort of.

 

Jinty

[Jintyman]

Great progress Jinty. I agree with CME re the use of copydex as it remains flexible and deadens sound really well. Try gluing the cork down with it and them using it diluted fix the loose ballast using an eye dropper and I am sure you will notice a vast difference from PVA. Like everyone else I think your trackwork looks terrific.

 

Rod

I'll give it a go Rod, thank you and CME.

 

Is there a particular type of Copydex to use, or just Copydex, and what do you dilute it with?

 

Jinty

[Southwich]

Top work here Jinty, the 7mm track looks incredible!

 

Thanks,

 

Will

[trains12]

Hi Jinty,

 

Thanks - my friend and I use bargain bin cork tiles too.

 

Have you tried using a Copydex type glue which locks the ballast but stays flexible and thus offers sound deadening above and beyond 'Resin W' et al?

 

The Copydex type glues also inhibit the corrosion and 'rot' issues that Resin W and other 'white' glues cause in and around copper-clad trackwork too.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

 

CME

 

With reference to your above comment on white glues I have been building my own track in 4mm and 7mm scales using copperclad for the last 40 odd years and use the procedure of gluing the track and points down by coating the area where the track is to be laid with white glue and then placing the trackwork onto this and checking all alignments and holding it down with some notice board pins and then covering it with the ballast and leaving for 24 hours and then vacuming up the surplus.

Originally I used to use Polybond white glue and Resin W but over the years I have come to use plain PVA glue in 5 litre tubs. In all that time we have not had any problems with rotting or corrosion of the copperclad. What we did find was if you use Resin W exterior quality wood working glue you could not remove the trackwork without totally destroying it. Using all the other glues we have found that they are flexible and if the trackwork has to be altered or renewed then to lift it it only needs to be soaked with water over a few days and left to soak through and then with care the track and points can be relifted and reused. Resin W exterior has a chemical added to it which prevents the ingress of water and so cannot be lifted by this means. Copydex does the same as PVA but is slightly stronger and a lot more expensive.

This technique has been used on all my layouts (You can follow the threads on the bottom of my post and see the construction of track for them) and also on layouts that I have been commissioned to build to name 2 on the RMWeb, Tywern Sidings and Kinmundy without any problems at all.

One thing 30 - 40 years ago I used to use Evostik on Dunlopfix to glue the cork down but one day I was gluing 15 sheets of 3'x2' cork down on a new layout when Wendy heard me singing and laughing in the workshop. Upon investigation she found me totally high from the fumes of the glue as the windows were all sealed. It took me a few hours to recover from this and from that day forth I have used PVA glue to glue the cork down.

One other point as regards noise I have found that there is very little difference between using copydex or PVA. In 4mm & 7mm  scale I lay cork down where the track is to go but about 1" - 2" wider than the trackbed and then a further layer which is the width of the trackbed with the chamfer. The thickness of cork used is dependant upon the scale.

I am not saying that this is the correct way but over the years it is how I have come to do it and I have been both in magazines and at shows been complimented on the appearence of my track but as usual everybody has their own way of doing things.

Hope this has been useful

Peter

[CME and Bottlewasher]

CME

 

With reference to your above comment on white glues I have been building my own track in 4mm and 7mm scales using copperclad for the last 40 odd years and use the procedure of gluing the track and points down by coating the area where the track is to be laid with white glue and then placing the trackwork onto this and checking all alignments and holding it down with some notice board pins and then covering it with the ballast and leaving for 24 hours and then vacuming up the surplus.

Originally I used to use Polybond white glue and Resin W but over the years I have come to use plain PVA glue in 5 litre tubs. In all that time we have not had any problems with rotting or corrosion of the copperclad. What we did find was if you use Resin W exterior quality wood working glue you could not remove the trackwork without totally destroying it. Using all the other glues we have found that they are flexible and if the trackwork has to be altered or renewed then to lift it it only needs to be soaked with water over a few days and left to soak through and then with care the track and points can be relifted and reused. Resin W exterior has a chemical added to it which prevents the ingress of water and so cannot be lifted by this means. Copydex does the same as PVA but is slightly stronger and a lot more expensive.

This technique has been used on all my layouts (You can follow the threads on the bottom of my post and see the construction of track for them) and also on layouts that I have been commissioned to build to name 2 on the RMWeb, Tywern Sidings and Kinmundy without any problems at all.

One thing 30 - 40 years ago I used to use Evostik on Dunlopfix to glue the cork down but one day I was gluing 15 sheets of 3'x2' cork down on a new layout when Wendy heard me singing and laughing in the workshop. Upon investigation she found me totally high from the fumes of the glue as the windows were all sealed. It took me a few hours to recover from this and from that day forth I have used PVA glue to glue the cork down.

One other point as regards noise I have found that there is very little difference between using copydex or PVA. In 4mm & 7mm  scale I lay cork down where the track is to go but about 1" - 2" wider than the trackbed and then a further layer which is the width of the trackbed with the chamfer. The thickness of cork used is dependant upon the scale.

I am not saying that this is the correct way but over the years it is how I have come to do it and I have been both in magazines and at shows been complimented on the appearence of my track but as usual everybody has their own way of doing things.

Hope this has been useful

Peter

Hi Peter,

 

Thanks for the kind and comprehensive reply.

 

My reply will have to be in haste, I am sorry to say.

 

I know that some have had problems with 'white glues' and copper-clad, not with the copper-clad in of itself (sorry I should have been more succinct) but with the solder used in construction - in a similar way as to the issue with lead-shot being 'white' glued into loco boilers et al.

 

I wouldnt buy 'Copydex' if using this type of glue but one of the cheaper non-branded types, but you are correct, it is, by and large, more expensive.

 

One has to be very careful with the likes of Evostik as they are very dangerous, I have even had problems with Resin W when used in a confined space. I now have sensitivities to other glues such as certain cyanos, so extractor fans and other methods are now used (when I remember to - eeek!).

 

Thanks for the tip off re. noise, I am tempted by foam, yet wary of it.

 

Sorry for the hijack Jinty, hope that this all helps in terms of general knowledge for one and all.

 

Kindest, in haste,

 

CME

Edited July 17, 2015 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Jintyman]

Thanks for the info Peter and CME, regarding glue for ballasting and noise reduction.

Not a thread hi-jack as it was informative.

 

Anyway, back to the workbench.

 

Not a lot done due to work, family commitments, etc, but this morning I had a fiddle with the coach. I started cutting out the various pieces and before I knew it, I'd stuck a few bits together.

 

Now I know there are various ways to construct the Sidelines kits, and they are (up to now) an excellently thought out kit. Everything fits as it should, and there is very little fettling required.

 

Malcom suggests that the body is put together first, but I've decided to go with the underframe first, and body second. It will be built with the body and roof as a lift off section complete, and all the seating on the chassis.

 

One thing I did find is that I could only spot the solebars and trusses in place as the main floor section had a tendency to move with the slightest heat!!! Anyway I've stuck it together and ready for the little bits now such as the vac cylinders and brake linkages, the dynamo and mounting, and the battery box and all the bits of strapping to solder up.

 

Went for tea out in Bangor at the Antelope Inn, lovely meal, so took a couple of photos once I got back

 

 

And here it is with the main partition pieces just plonked in place

 

 

Should get a bit more done tomorrow once the Mrs has gone to work!!!

 

Jinty

[Guest bri.s]

Looks like a good start on the coach jinty

 

What do you use to fold the metal ,do you have one if those hold and fold jigs?

I've been thinking about getting one for a while

 

 

Brian

[Jintyman]

Looks like a good start on the coach jinty

 

What do you use to fold the metal ,do you have one if those hold and fold jigs?

I've been thinking about getting one for a while

 

 

Brian

Thanks Brian,

 

I have an 18"(inside the clamps) folding device that sits in a vice, so you have 3 points of clamping, two screw clamps on the outer ends, and the vice it sits in in the middle. I find it is invaluable, although you'll not be needing one that long for 2mm!!!!

 

I've progressed a bit with the ends this afternoon. All ready apart from the tank filler pipes on one end (These will be fitted after the roof).

 

 

 

 

I'll move onto the sides now, fit all the hinges, door stops and handrails, but leave off the door handles till after it's painted. Once the sides are done, I can begin assembling the 'box'.

 

Jinty

[Removed a/c]

Not sure if this is of any help you Jinty 

 

https://youtu.be/GBnLDX9hIH8

[Jintyman]

Not sure if this is of any help you Jinty 

 

https://youtu.be/GBnLDX9hIH8

A lovely video Britfarmer, but it's the wrong Talyllyn.

I'm modelling the Standard gauge railway Junction on the old Brecon & Merthyr line, where that line split for Three Cocks Junction.

 

It is shown on this video, on a few occasions (as well as numerous other Welsh rural lines).

 

http://youtu.be/5NuF2rQkW-E

 

Have a watch through, it was this film that gave me the impetous to start building Talyllyn Junction.

 

Jinty

[Jintyman]

Up nice and early before work this morning, and an hour or two on the next stage of the coach build.

 

The sides, firstly were given the bump stops and handrails, and then the rears ground down to facilitate the hinge panels, that on this kit also double up as the droplights. Once all that lot was fitted, I sweated the Guards ducket in place and then the small pieces on the window vents. Once that was finished I had a good wash and clean up of the parts.

 

Before I started on the sides, I fitted the battery box with its extra laminations, and the two vac cylinders to the underframe. You'll see in the photo that there are splits in the trusses near where they're supposed to meet the frames. I thought the frames were in the wrong position, but after measuring them, they are accurately placed, so that means that the trusses themselves are incorrect. I will endeavour to fill the gaps with some fine brass to strengthen them up a bit.

 

 

 

Here is a picture of one of the sides with the Guards area and ducket, The duckets are nice lost wax castings, and the kit is excellent value for money, considering you only need wheels to complete the build.

 

 

 

And here I have the 5 pieces that go into making up the main structure of the coach, once the two sides and two ends are tack soldered together it can be mounted on the underframe and checked for square, etc. Then they can be seam soldered for strength.

 

 

Then it'll be onto the roof, and to finish the bogies off.

 

Jinty

[Jintyman]

An early riser, yet again, sees the body of the coach tacked and then seam soldered, then bolted back down onto the underframe to check for heights, etc.

 

 

 

It's not too far out. I'm thinking of a brass penny washer type affair on the bogie, which should lift it about 1mm, and it should hold the body steady with no rocking laterally across the bolster, he says hopefully!!!

 

Jinty

[P.C.M]

The coach is looking good jinty,

Do you have another one to do? I presume they ran as a two or three car set.

 

Cheers Peter.

[trains12]

Hi Jinty

Following this thread has made me sort out my O gauge stock. Am now thinking of building an O gauge line around the bottom garden roughly planning it out it would give me a run of about 300' and I could even build a Connel Ferry bridge across part of the pond area.

Anyway here are a couple of photos of my Slaters LMS 20T brake van. I originally built most of this but then it got on the back burner while other 4mm projects were underway. Eventually the late Gerry Partridge got fed up with seeing it on the side and finished the brake gear and fully detailed the inside even to papers on the desk, and painted it for me. I just need someone to come and give me a push to building the new line. Keep up the good work.

Cheers

Peter