Talyllyn Junction. The Station area has been started!

[CME and Bottlewasher]

That's such a fine piece of work it's a shame to keep calling it by the wrong name.

 

It's a turnout, not a point. A point is a single moving point blade or switch rail:

 

 

Martin.

When I worked on Track Renewals we called 'em 'Switches and Crossings'.

 

I believe the term points comes from the blade tips which are the moving part and so one threw the points i.e moved the blades over, rather than throwing a turnout. Hence the two terms. Turnout is the technical term for the whole unit.  The two terms get used rather indiscriminately. The Americans of talk of throwing a switch which is the technical terms for the area around the blades.

Whatever you wish to call it, it looks nicely made.

Don

I think that sums it it up well Don

 

Hi David,

 

I am also at the stage of deciding which tie bars to use, I have used the JLTRT ones see below. They are quite easy to make, I glue a strip of plasicard between the parts to isolate and give them some more rigidity. This type of flat bar was used on the GWR p/way from the early 1900's.

 

P1080028-2.JPG

 

Whereas these ones are a rendition of the earlier type using a rod linkage rather than flat bar, they take a lot more time to make but have proved to be quite strong even though the rod is made of 0.75mm plastic .

 

P1080031-1.JPG

 

I am using Tortoise motors which are a lot more gentle in operation than the older solinoid types, and to be honest I think I will be going with the JLTRT tie bars. Like I said they are quicker to build and as I'm modelling the 50's, I would have thought most would have been replaced by then, except maybe the weed covered sidings that were hidden away on some of the backwater branchlines at the time.

 

Martyn.

 

David, can you tell me who's ballast you are using please ?

Nice work, Martyn, Id wondered about the JLTRT stretchers too - a nice neat application of them on your part

 

ATVB to all,

 

CME

[Dmudriver]

Hi Jinty.

 

Glad you felt the idea was of use.  I too like Andrew's use of pins - it will certainly give a neater finish under the tie bar and less likely to catch on any ballast, for example.

 

In future, I'd use a wider bore tube - that was all I could lay my hands on at the time (left over from some "wire in tube" point operations in the dim and distant past - I use Tortoise motors now).  Certainly the wire in the middle tube - for the point operating wire - would not be effective at all as it would likely be too thin and unable to hold the blade against the stock rail.  On the Club's layout I've soldered the operating wire to the end of the tie bar, outside the stock rail.

 

Getting the right gap at the point blades was really hit and miss - I think I started at 29mm tube centre to centre and adjusted from there - but I got there.  Another thing to look out for is to get the tubes vertical on the tiebar.  I found it a bit tricky with such a short length but ended up putting a long piece of wire through the piece of tube and making sure that was at right angles: it worked!!

 

HTH.

 

Rod

[Jintyman]

Hi Jinty.

 

Glad you felt the idea was of use.  I too like Andrew's use of pins - it will certainly give a neater finish under the tie bar and less likely to catch on any ballast, for example.

 

In future, I'd use a wider bore tube - that was all I could lay my hands on at the time (left over from some "wire in tube" point operations in the dim and distant past - I use Tortoise motors now).  Certainly the wire in the middle tube - for the point operating wire - would not be effective at all as it would likely be too thin and unable to hold the blade against the stock rail.  On the Club's layout I've soldered the operating wire to the end of the tie bar, outside the stock rail.

 

Getting the right gap at the point blades was really hit and miss - I think I started at 29mm tube centre to centre and adjusted from there - but I got there.  Another thing to look out for is to get the tubes vertical on the tiebar.  I found it a bit tricky with such a short length but ended up putting a long piece of wire through the piece of tube and making sure that was at right angles: it worked!!

 

HTH.

 

Rod

Hi Rod,

 

Thanks for the tips. I need to find myself some brass/copper tube with about 0.7mm inside diameter to suit these brass pins I've got. I'll take a trip up to the model shop tomorrow as they're shut on a Monday.

 

I had a couple of hours this afternoon, so my time was spent making up the crossing vee's for my next piece of pointwork, which is the double junction with three-way and single slip.

 

Two of the Crossing Vee's have been made up for the three-way, and a start made on the one for the point on the North side.

 

 

A view end on...

 

 

 

I've also been making a little bit of progress with the Dapol 5-plank wagon, I've attacked it with a fibre brush, some paints, some transfer black squares (cut down to suit) and some Satin varnish this afternoon to seal it all in before the weathering powders/liquids/washes!!!!

 

 

I am trying to show it as an Ex-GWR wagon that's escaped a repaint, but has had BR numbering added, plus some running repairs to some of the timbers.

I'll get a bit more done tomorrow hopefully.

 

Jinty

[3 link]

Hi Martyn,

 

I'm using a 50/50 mix of Woodland Scenics Medium Grey Blend & Grey.

Not sure of the ref no's as I'm in work but I can get them for you later.

 

Regards

David

 

Hi David,

 

So far I have a couple of packets of Woodland Scenics in coarse brown, coarse dark brown and coarse buff. And are still undecided as to what colour to go for, I am a typical Libran, us lot are famous for never making our minds up.

 

I know on real track work there were patches of new grey and old brown ballast just laid where needed, but I do not like the sharp contrast in model form I think it stands out to much. Oh, decisions, decisions !

 

Martyn.

[Jintyman]

 

I've always preferred grey's, but I had some Carrs 7mm Brown, and if it was a bit smaller,

I'd try mixing it with the Woodland Scenics .

 

I thought that the Woodland Scenics Grey Blend was too obvious, that's why I mixed it with the plain Grey, and I think it's come out ok. But I might get some buff and throw some of that in the mix and see what that comes out like. After all, that's what my plank is for anyway!!!!

 

Jinty

[railwayrod]

Hi Jintyman.

 

On Ramchester we used mainly grey but 4mm stuff as we felt the 7mm product was too coarse. In the six foot we used an even finer product to highlight the difference. The ballast still has to be weathered but at present it looks OK. Hope this is helpful.

 

I notice that you are using Brian Harraps method of making up the vees. He of course uses fine rail on his latest HO system which is a lot easier to bend than O gauge rail. How easy did you find this.? Brian has been a friend of mine for neigh on 50 years and has been a constant source of inspiration over the years. He is currently on his way back from a massive tour of the Continent where he is viewing all the areas of railway interest that he has not visited up till now.

 

Rod

[Jintyman]

Hi Jintyman.

 

On Ramchester we used mainly grey but 4mm stuff as we felt the 7mm product was too coarse. In the six foot we used an even finer product to highlight the difference. The ballast still has to be weathered but at present it looks OK. Hope this is helpful.

 

I notice that you are using Brian Harraps method of making up the vees. He of course uses fine rail on his latest HO system which is a lot easier to bend than O gauge rail. How easy did you find this.? Brian has been a friend of mine for neigh on 50 years and has been a constant source of inspiration over the years. He is currently on his way back from a massive tour of the Continent where he is viewing all the areas of railway interest that he has not visited up till now.

 

Rod

Hi Rod,

 

Thanks for the information on the ballast, it is a very involved subject, and it all comes down to personal preference and how it looks to each individual.

 

Brain Harrap is a legend in track and point construction. Yes I use his method of folding the rail in a vice, forming the angle using a small Templot plan piece, then soldering solid. Then filing off the excess to leave a smooth vee. In 7mm I don't find it especially difficult, and it's easier to stop the rail distorting as it has a greater mass.

 

Jinty

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Jintyman.

 

On Ramchester we used mainly grey but 4mm stuff as we felt the 7mm product was too coarse. In the six foot we used an even finer product to highlight the difference. The ballast still has to be weathered but at present it looks OK. Hope this is helpful.

 

I notice that you are using Brian Harraps method of making up the vees. He of course uses fine rail on his latest HO system which is a lot easier to bend than O gauge rail. How easy did you find this.? Brian has been a friend of mine for neigh on 50 years and has been a constant source of inspiration over the years. He is currently on his way back from a massive tour of the Continent where he is viewing all the areas of railway interest that he has not visited up till now.

 

Rod

 

 

Hi Rod,

 

Thanks for the information on the ballast, it is a very involved subject, and it all comes down to personal preference and how it looks to each individual.

 

Brain Harrap is a legend in track and point construction. Yes I use his method of folding the rail in a vice, forming the angle using a small Templot plan piece, then soldering solid. Then filing off the excess to leave a smooth vee. In 7mm I don't find it especially difficult, and it's easier to stop the rail distorting as it has a greater mass.

 

Jinty

Hi fella's,

 

Re ballast, I suppose that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, yet think of it this way (I can see where Rod is coming from and I have done similar with Down Ampney Sidings so concur with his comments re. scale) a piece of ballast is about the size of a human fist. With Down Ampney Sidings, I also mixed in some 7mm scale ballast which looks okay on the elevated siding, yet is moderately too coarse elsewhere (most of the ballast mix was 4mm scale though). I added a cess from finer material too. As DA Sidings is a diorama and an experiment - also photographic aid - it was a useful learning experience. Please forgive the crude photos, one photo shows that I have yet to 'matt down' the scenics (even though I had used Woodland Scenics matt effect liquid adhesive).

 

Some photos of Down Ampney Sidings' ballast herewith - I hope that helps (apologies to those who have seen these before).

 

Kindest regards,

 

CME

 

Photos in this Post are the copyright of the photographer/author 2008

Edited June 30, 2015 by CME and Bottlewasher

[muddys-blues]

Fantastic CME ...... loving this image 

 

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Fantastic CME ...... loving this image 

 

Thanks - very kind.

 

I try to imply human activity without the use of model figures, also that run down 1960's feel.

 

ATVB

 

CME.

 

PS Apologies for the Hijack

[Jintyman]

 

No need to apologise, some stunning photographs there.

Craig has stated his favourite, but mine is the oil drums with the hessian rucksack laying on the floor against the far right drum. Like the owner has just rushed off somewhere.

The ballast is wonderfully done, I find a lot of people tend to stick the finest ballast they can down in sidings, whereas, sidings got what was left over, or what the yard workers could acquire out of ballast wagons, to top up their small area of sidings. So more chunky bits of ballast would be found as well as the finer stuff.

 

I like the way that not just the greenery has been blended in, but the ballast itself is non uniform. One minute it's sparse around the sleeper, next it's half way up the rail side!!!

 

Brilliant observation of the real thing, and great recreation in model form CME.

 

Whilst I was at my local store today, I acquired some fine tube for the dressmakers pins in copper, and I also purchased some Woodland Scenics medium Buff ballast, to add some and try something a touch different on the plank!!!

 

Jinty

[CME and Bottlewasher]

No need to apologise, some stunning photographs there.

Craig has stated his favourite, but mine is the oil drums with the hessian rucksack laying on the floor against the far right drum. Like the owner has just rushed off somewhere.

The ballast is wonderfully done, I find a lot of people tend to stick the finest ballast they can down in sidings, whereas, sidings got what was left over, or what the yard workers could acquire out of ballast wagons, to top up their small area of sidings. So more chunky bits of ballast would be found as well as the finer stuff.

 

I like the way that not just the greenery has been blended in, but the ballast itself is non uniform. One minute it's sparse around the sleeper, next it's half way up the rail side!!!

 

Brilliant observation of the real thing, and great recreation in model form CME.

 

Whilst I was at my local store today, I acquired some fine tube for the dressmakers pins in copper, and I also purchased some Woodland Scenics medium Buff ballast, to add some and try something a touch different on the plank!!!

 

Jinty

Hi Jinty,

 

Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated.

 

The ruck-sack on the oil cans implies activity - again - but without any crass figures clogging up the view.

 

Spot on Jinty!, with DA Sidings, as it was raised and 'bermed' I didnt think that ash/clinker ballast would be appropriate (only for the Cess) and as I was building a works train at the time (still am oooops!), some 'make do and mend' track renewals also incorporated some slag mainline ballast for use at DA Sidings, applied not too carefully by the PtWay gang - it took me hours to get the effect right, order providing chaos if you will. I remember doing similar works on the old Highworth Branch in the early 1990s, still make do and mend and on a tight budget - but trying to avoid derailments (due to underground streams and old factory dross and debris) and thus also keep costs down.

 

Glad that you liked the photos and the example of what I was trying to achieve - and what can be achieved - glad to be of help to others.

 

Kindest,

 

CME

Edited June 30, 2015 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Removed a/c]

Thought I would stop by and have a look at your new venture. Very nice indeed and look forward to seeing more. 

 

 

 

Regards 

Scott 

Edited July 1, 2015 by thebritfarmer

[Jintyman]

12" sleepering arrived, so after a good staining session, and the rapid drying with this nice warm weather, meant I could get on with a bit of rail and chair construction.

 

Now I'd already made up the crossing vee's the other day, so I've laid them out, and then built up the two stock rails, and one of the blades for the first switch.

 

 

A view above the crossing vee's. I've made the check rail nearest the camera as one unit rather than two, as they were so close together anyway.

 

 

And finally a lower angle.

 

 

I'm rather pleased as to how it has come out so far. I did make a couple of c*ck-up's along the way, like putting 2 chairs on the wrong way round, but easily rectified, and I'm now looking forward to getting the next point and the slip done!!!!

 

Jinty

[muddys-blues]

Aah is this the thing you was getting tetchy about in the text the other day   looking like a good start Jints.

 

Craig.

[3 link]

It's very pleasing and satisfying when you first push a wagon through the newly built turnout. Worlds your oyster when it comes to building your own track work.

 

Martyn.

[railwayrod]

Great work Jintyman.

 

Rod

[bescotbeast]

Super work Jinty, it's exciting to see your track slowly taking shape 

                Simon

[Jintyman]

Thanks guys,

 

Well the 3-way has been finished all bar the tie bars, I've tried a couple of wagons through each section and they pass through very smoothly. I had to tighten the adjustment on the innermost check rail to get a smooth transition, but it's all working fine now.

I've now laid the sleepers for the turnout along side the 3-way, and laid the crossing vee and the curved stock rail.

 

 

 

And one from the other way, showing some stock, in the form of an Ex-GWR 5-plank, arriving across the 3-way, light wagon into platform 1!!!!!

 

 

I'll try to get more of the next turnout laid tomorrow.

 

Jinty

Edited July 2, 2015 by Jintyman

[Dmudriver]

That's looking really good, Jinty.

 

Rod

[railwayrod]

Nice work Jinty.

 

At the rate you are going this "long project" will be finished in less than a couple of months!! What then?

 

Rod

[muddys-blues]

Nice work Jinty.

 

At the rate you are going this "long project" will be finished in less than a couple of months!! What then?

 

Rod

 

He is embarrassing the rest us with is pace of work ........ looks damn fine though Jints

[Jintyman]

Thanks again guys,

 

It's not that quick really, you just get started with something, and plod away and next thing you know, it's just about done!!!!

 

Once I've finished the double junction, I'll feel a lot better about the trackwork, as that junction is the nucleus of the whole layout, and I wasn't certain that I could put it all together. So once it's finished, I can breathe easier.

 

I must have a change of scene, as I've spent pretty much all my time with the trackwork, I've forgotten my little Toad project.

I've got it here, just need to apply some time to that as well.

 

I have 6 loco kits to be going on with, I have the motors and gears for a few of them, so I think the next kit I will have a go at will be the 8750 0-6-0PT, which is the JLTRT kit.

 

Jinty

[PjKing1]

Looking great Jinty really looking forward to more

 

Cheers, Paul

[Jintyman]

This evening was spent fabricating the single turnout on the left, and a short section of line added to the end.

 

Tested with both LWB & SWB wagons for clearances and they all trundle through all the crossing vee's smoothly with no bumps.

 

Here are a few photos (sorry about the repetitive photos of trackwork!!)

 

 

 

And finally a photo including the two wagons used to test the complex.

 

 

 

Next up is the single slip. This is the one I've been dreading. I'll make up the crossing vee's separately, and then, once fitted, I'll build the rest around them.

 

Jinty