cornish trains jez Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 (edited) Get one of those old style 15cm plastic school rulers - the brand name 'Helix' springs to mind. Line up relatively near where you want your straight line to be and lightly tack (masking tape). Not gonna be 100% but helps me by having a near reference to something definately straight. Not tried T-Cut for removing painted surface items before - is this the stuff? Cheers, Paul T-Cut works a treat buddy. Just a tiny amount on a cocktail stick and some gentle rubbing and hey presto, the factory transfers are removed. Best regards, Jeremy Edited April 21, 2017 by cornish trains jez Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Looks good Jeremy. I tend to put the cantrail decals on in small sections rather than one long length. The shorter bits stay straighter naturally, still a PITA mind. I still think masking them and airbrushing them on looks better if the area is flat and the masking tape can do its job. Cheers buddy. Think I'll try airbrushing next time. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Like the clothes peg painting jigs Jeremy, a few post back...don't let the wife catch you ! Regards , Roy . My wife is more unhappy that the pegs are left on the sideboard in the lounge with half painted loco bodies on the end of them! Best regards, Jeremy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hearts1874 Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 great work where do you get the 3D printed MU cables on the NSE 86 from cheers john Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted April 22, 2017 Author Share Posted April 22, 2017 great work where do you get the 3D printed MU cables on the NSE 86 from cheers john My friend Cav (RBE on RMweb) designed and 3D printed them for me. They look awesome! Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigAndy Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 Do you fix your transfers down onto gloss varnish Jez? It's just that a/ the transfer sits far better onto gloss and b/ you can manouver the transfer around a lot easier on gloss, as it's a smotth finish as opposed to matt. If i'm just altering a Loco number and name for example, I will strip the whole body down, including glazing and spray gloss varnish with the airbrush, then rub down when dry with 1200 grit wet and dry. Fit the transfers, then seal the whole lot in with a coat of sprayed Matt varnish. Makes a huge difference and I also use orange cantrail transfers, prefering to fit them as one piece. Personally , I find that fitting in lots of small sections causes more issues than it cures ( big likelihood of disturbing the already positioned previous piece, whilst attempting to fit the next piece along. I've found that you will have about 10 minutes manouvering time, if you fit it onto a gloss surface but if it does start to become difficult due to drying out, just introduce a small amount of water with a small brush. To aid the transfer sitting down, I use a damp cotton bud rolled gently over the transfer once it's in its final position. Hope this helps. cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 I agree with gloss no one should even think about putting transfers on anything but a smooth gloss surface, primarily to avoid silvering of the film which will happen 100% if you don't gloss first. As for fitting the cantrails in a oner. It is pretty easy in N as the lengths are not so long but tbh I have never had an issue with lining up the cantrails in a couple of lengths to make them more manageable. As long as the first length is bedded down and dried it usually stays in place no problem while you add the next. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulprice Posted April 23, 2017 Share Posted April 23, 2017 What a brilliant project Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 (edited) Do you fix your transfers down onto gloss varnish Jez? It's just that a/ the transfer sits far better onto gloss and b/ you can manouver the transfer around a lot easier on gloss, as it's a smotth finish as opposed to matt. If i'm just altering a Loco number and name for example, I will strip the whole body down, including glazing and spray gloss varnish with the airbrush, then rub down when dry with 1200 grit wet and dry. Fit the transfers, then seal the whole lot in with a coat of sprayed Matt varnish. Makes a huge difference and I also use orange cantrail transfers, prefering to fit them as one piece. Personally , I find that fitting in lots of small sections causes more issues than it cures ( big likelihood of disturbing the already positioned previous piece, whilst attempting to fit the next piece along. I've found that you will have about 10 minutes manouvering time, if you fit it onto a gloss surface but if it does start to become difficult due to drying out, just introduce a small amount of water with a small brush. To aid the transfer sitting down, I use a damp cotton bud rolled gently over the transfer once it's in its final position. Hope this helps. cheers Andy I agree with gloss no one should even think about putting transfers on anything but a smooth gloss surface, primarily to avoid silvering of the film which will happen 100% if you don't gloss first. As for fitting the cantrails in a oner. It is pretty easy in N as the lengths are not so long but tbh I have never had an issue with lining up the cantrails in a couple of lengths to make them more manageable. As long as the first length is bedded down and dried it usually stays in place no problem while you add the next. Hi guys, I always spray on gloss before transfers and then matt varnish after. With 86206, I had already matt varnished so I applied some Klear on the section first and then put the transfers over the top. I'll matt varnish over the top soon once I have another loco to do so that it makes mixing the varnish up more worthwhile. With renumbering, i just t-cut the old transfers off, bit of Klear, and then same process as above. Works well for me. Best regards, Jeremy Edited April 23, 2017 by cornish trains jez Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted April 23, 2017 Author Share Posted April 23, 2017 What a brilliant project Cheers Paul! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 Good evening, I stripped the paint off my buffer fitted HST last week and have decided to give it a coat of primer tonight. It seems to have gone on well. As mentioned previously, this one will be painted in Intercity executive grey livery as 43123. Best regards, Jeremy 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium njee20 Posted April 24, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 24, 2017 Swallow Jeremy! Definitely better than Executive! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammstein2609 Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Good evening, I stripped the paint off my buffer fitted HST last week and have decided to give it a coat of primer tonight. It seems to have gone on well. IMG_8314.JPG As mentioned previously, this one will be painted in Intercity executive grey livery as 43123. Best regards, Jeremy Hi Jeremy Looking good! One question though, how did you remove the glazing and light glazing with damaging it? I've tried to strip the Network Rail power cars and managed to break several bits so a friend sourced some new bodies for me. It seems a shame to waste the bodies I've got so will find a use for them but I may end up spraying more of these soon if I can dismantle them without breaking bits. Thanks Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 Swallow Jeremy! Definitely better than Executive! Hi, I do prefer the swallow liveried versions of this but 43123 ran in executive when it was running on the WCML. I will however have a second buffer fitted HST which will be in swallow livery and will run with my class 91 and MK3 rake, as they did when they were first introduced before the MK4's came on stream. They didn't make it to Euston in 1989 but I'm having double headed class 37's on the sleeper so I thought why not have a 91 too! Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 (edited) Hi Jeremy Looking good! One question though, how did you remove the glazing and light glazing with damaging it? I've tried to strip the Network Rail power cars and managed to break several bits so a friend sourced some new bodies for me. It seems a shame to waste the bodies I've got so will find a use for them but I may end up spraying more of these soon if I can dismantle them without breaking bits. Thanks Martin Hi Martin, It took a while to remove all the glazing. I used the sharp end of a knife to gently ease the glazing away from the inside of the body and then push through with a cocktail stick. I must admit, I did take my time to tease each piece out. The light fittings just fell out of the sockets once the main part of the light fitting was removed and the cab interior. The light cluster lense I very very gently eased out with a sharp knife placing the knife under the whole of the lense and then gently lifting. I have slightly bent it but it will easily bend back into shape before refitting. Hope this helps. Best regards, Jeremy Edited April 24, 2017 by cornish trains jez Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjf4375 Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 A very nice job on that primer, looks super crisp. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianwales Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 Hi Jeremy Where did you get the printed MU cables from please as I need some for my 86401? Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted April 25, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 25, 2017 Hi Jeremy Where did you get the printed MU cables from please as I need some for my 86401? Ian Hi http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/98901-this-is-euston/?p=2697020 Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Good afternoon, Here is a photo of three resprays in progress that I currently have on my workbench. From left to right, 37401 "Mary Queen of Scots", buffer fitted HST 43123, and 86210 "City of Edinburgh" As they are all in Intercity liveries, I'm able to batch paint all three at the same time. Best regards, Jeremy 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Good evening, Well I decided to finally crack on with the wiring and I've made a start on two of the sections soldering on the red wires. I'm using solder tags to attach the dropper wires to as suggested to me by Ian Morgan and I'm glad I took his advice as it's working out really well. It keeps the wires nice and tidy and once the droppers are folded over into the little hoop of the solder tag, I can solder on the bus wire and bring everything together. I'm going to have three sets of bus wires running under the board due to the amount of turnouts, it would look tidier and will not interfere with the turnout wires. Here's a couple of progress shots... So far so good I hope. Best regards, Jeremy 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted May 4, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 4, 2017 best of luck my own stalled main layout looks like a rats nest and is far from wired look forward to a loco run Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 best of luck my own stalled main layout looks like a rats nest and is far from wired look forward to a loco run Nick Thanks Nick. Just need to keep the momentum up now so hopefully I'll do a little bit each evening. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post cornish trains jez Posted May 10, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 10, 2017 Hi, Had the airbrush out last night and decided to paint on the executive dark grey on the class 37. It's really starting to take shape now. Just the stripes to do and then transfers and nameplates. Best regards, Jeremy 21 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 Good evening, Well a day off today (and home alone) allowed me some uninterrupted time in the railway shed. So armed with a cup of tea, I decided to crack on with some more wiring. I've completed several more sections of trackwork adding the dropper wires and attaching them to solder tags under the baseboard. While I was in there, I also added some more crossing blades that I had missed off. So, I'm quite pleased with the progress today, even though there is still plenty more to do and I'm not even a quarter of the way through the wiring yet! I just keep thinking about running that first train through the pointwork and into the station platform...it keeps me motivated! Best regards, Jeremy 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted May 16, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) Jeremy, glad to hear about your progress. We are about the same position with the TMD area on Camford Junction - most of the dropper wires fitted and solder tags in place. Now we just need to join the dots: Ian. Edited May 16, 2017 by Ian Morgan 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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