cornish trains jez Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 And I have trouble with a PECO point, I would dread to think what would happen if I attempted something like this. I will say it again, your track work is looking great. Thank you. It's worth taking the plunge into hand built track. Once you've threaded on a couple of straight sections of track, you're pretty much ready to launch yourself at some turnout building. Give it a go! You'll never look back! Best regards, Jeremy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted October 18, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 18, 2015 I would always know myself that it wasn't quite prototypical if I go down the fixed diamond route. That is often the dilemma in these cases, and one I've faced a few times. Even when an easy way out presents itself sometimes the fun, and the reward, is doing things the hard way despite the fact no-one but you might notice! How is Ropley coming along? I've always been very impressed with your work. Thanks Jeremy. Progress is best described as 'glacial' at the moment, mainly down to being hugely busy at work. That said I've spent the afternoon drawing up the basic plans for the engine shed building so things may start to pick up the pace again over the winter months. Tom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Jeremy A switched diamond may be a bit easier to build than a slip. I could be very wrong but thought smaller (1-5 and below) angled crossings were switched diamonds, where as the larger angled crossings (1-7 in model form) were slips. But like everything there were exceptions Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted October 19, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 19, 2015 Jeremy A switched diamond may be a bit easier to build than a slip. I could be very wrong but thought smaller (1-5 and below) angled crossings were switched diamonds, where as the larger angled crossings (1-7 in model form) were slips. But like everything there were exceptions A slip can have a fixed or switched diamond at it's centre, the reason for switched diamonds is that the gap at the k crossing at sizes 1 in 8 and above is so large that the wheels are unsupported at that point and would likely derail or go wrong side. Low angled diamonds with slips tend to be outside slips. IE the slip switches are outside of the common crossings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 21, 2015 Author Share Posted October 21, 2015 Good evening, A couple more hours were spent on the layout this evening and I've finally finished my first slip with switch diamonds. Just the tie bars to add now and it will be ready for the turnout motors. I'll lay all the track first and then wire up and add the motors. My trusty 2FS wagon ran perfectly through it so here are some photos of the almost finished article! Best regards, Jeremy 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 That looks very neat Jeremy. Given the more complex operation of the slip, the construction of it looks a lot less cramped without all the tiny little check rails you need in a normal slip. I like it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) Just a thought though. Arent the switch rails supposed to be the same length so that they fit to the same tie bar? Edited October 22, 2015 by RBE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) Just a thought though. Arent the switch rails supposed to be the same length so that they fit to the same tie bar? Yep, each set of switch rails are the same length. There will be two tie bars, one for each set of switches and then two further tie bars, one each end of the slip. I've left a slightly wider gap in between the sleepers where the tie bars will be so that they slide freely. The gap is hardly noticeable. Edited October 22, 2015 by cornish trains jez Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) It doesnt look like it on the pics. I wasnt referring to the switch diamonds but the normal switches. One looks like it finishes at DR137.T6 and the other DR137.X1-Z a good 3 sleepers away? Edited October 22, 2015 by RBE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 It doesnt look like it on the pics. I wasnt referring to the switch diamonds but the normal switches. One looks like it finishes at DR137.T6 and the other DR137.X1-Z a good 3 sleepers away? Ah yes. Again, another compromise. The reason it finishes shorter on one side is that I needed two chairs to hold in the switch diamonds so the slip rail needed to finish shorter so it fitted flush to the switch diamond rail. There isn't any other way around it and I thought it may give running problems but the wagon ran surprisingly smoothly through. I think that if I had gone for soldered turnouts then I could have filed the solder down nice and smooth and this would have allowed both rails to be the same length. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Yes even 2mm wheel treads have enough width to deal with things like that. How do you plan to do the tie bar on those then? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 Yes even 2mm wheel treads have enough width to deal with things like that. How do you plan to do the tie bar on those then? I'm going to use a copper clad sleeper and just carefully solder (using my best friend - solder paste!) the switch rails in situ using the track roller gauge to get them in the right position. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 My point being that if the rails arent the same length then the tips wont fall on the same tiebar. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 If it is of any use in the discussion, I was asked to build a Fox Henderson turnout for someone in EM gauge. For whatever reason the straight switch rail is 2 sleepers short of the curved switch rail, 1 PCB tiebar works both switches fine Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 It may well work. I've never done it like that. Its just that real switch tips sit over the sleeper to support the end of the rail and the tie is adjacent to that sleeper. On this situation the tie is going to be soldered 3 sleepers back. In 2mm scale I'd be concerned that the rail wouldnt be tight enough against the stock rail. It may look odd too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 How it looks is something else, but the practicalities of making it work is easy. When I build a switch rail I build in a slight tension for the switch rail to sit against the stock rail, next is to ensure that the rail is soldered to the tiebar so it sits properly against the stock rail when switched to it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 I agree, I do the same. Just pointing out potential issues down the line. I still maintain it will look odd though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 The longer switch rail has been filed smooth further along the rail (about 2cm has been flied smooth) than usual so it sits nice and snug against the stock rail. Hopefully it won't look out of place but we will see once the tie bar is added if any adjustments need to be done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Im sure it will be fine buddy. I am just aware how flappy those 1mm x 0.5mm rails can be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Hi Jez, Well all I can say is WOW.... your skills at track building are exemplary!! I've always been a fan of AC electrics and indeed at one time owned a few N gauge 86s and 87s myself (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/album/1090-ac-electrics/) so I will continue to follow your work here in eagerness. Good luck with the rest of the build, this project will look fantastic once complete Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 Hi Jez, Well all I can say is WOW.... your skills at track building are exemplary!! I've always been a fan of AC electrics and indeed at one time owned a few N gauge 86s and 87s myself (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/album/1090-ac-electrics/) so I will continue to follow your work here in eagerness. Good luck with the rest of the build, this project will look fantastic once complete Cheers Lee Hi Lee, Many thanks for your comments. I remember looking at your layout gallery a few years back, those 86's certainly look the business! Are you still progressing the layout? It looked awesome. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Hi Jeremy, Thank you for your kind words. Sadly I'm not progressing with the layout as I sold it along with my collection of locos and stock. I'm led to believe that the layout is now in the hands of an MRC who intend to exhibit it. If I find out where it is to be exhibited I shall certainly go along to see how it progressed. However, I get a lot of enjoyment watching the threads here on RMWeb, in particular Euston and RBE's Burton-on-Trent (along with many others) and I hope to one day at least make myself a small diorama with the few bits I have left. I watch in amazement how yourself and RBE build track in such a small scale... it's quite incredible. Keep up with the fantastic work. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 Hi Jeremy, Thank you for your kind words. Sadly I'm not progressing with the layout as I sold it along with my collection of locos and stock. I'm led to believe that the layout is now in the hands of an MRC who intend to exhibit it. If I find out where it is to be exhibited I shall certainly go along to see how it progressed. However, I get a lot of enjoyment watching the threads here on RMWeb, in particular Euston and RBE's Burton-on-Trent (along with many others) and I hope to one day at least make myself a small diorama with the few bits I have left. I watch in amazement how yourself and RBE build track in such a small scale... it's quite incredible. Keep up with the fantastic work. Cheers Lee Hi Lee, Thanks again. It's not easy building track in this scale but very rewarding once done. Cav's (RBE) Burton-on-Trent is excellent and shows how the trackwork can be adjusted to suit N scale stock without the need for rewheeling while still offering excellent looking trackwork. Hope you get to see the layout again and I'd also be interested to see how it has progressed. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium eldavo Posted October 22, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 22, 2015 Great work so far. It'll be a cracker of a layout when you get it done. I would really strongly advise you get your first couple of turnouts completed with tiebars/stretcher bars and motors working before you crack on with the rest of the work. In my experience the turnout operation mechanism is the weak point in many a layout including my own. Get your design right and proven now to avoid a lot of pain further along. As to using copperclad sleeper soldered direct to the rail for tiebars, don't! You need some hinging/flexing between the switch rails and the tiebar. If not the switches will not throw properly and the soldered joint or copper to paxolin/fibreglass will break. It may not fail for a while but it will fail. Happened to me setting up for Warley. You do not need the stress of creating new tiebars during an exhibition believe me. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 Great work so far. It'll be a cracker of a layout when you get it done. I would really strongly advise you get your first couple of turnouts completed with tiebars/stretcher bars and motors working before you crack on with the rest of the work. In my experience the turnout operation mechanism is the weak point in many a layout including my own. Get your design right and proven now to avoid a lot of pain further along. As to using copperclad sleeper soldered direct to the rail for tiebars, don't! You need some hinging/flexing between the switch rails and the tiebar. If not the switches will not throw properly and the soldered joint or copper to paxolin/fibreglass will break. It may not fail for a while but it will fail. Happened to me setting up for Warley. You do not need the stress of creating new tiebars during an exhibition believe me. Cheers Dave Hi Dave, Thank you for your advice. I was hoping to find some motors that would throw the switches gently across which would look realistic and preserve the life of the tie bar. Are there any other ways of creating a decent tie bar that would stand the test of time? This is all new territory for me. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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