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Marcus 37
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Never mind, not to worry mate. Bad timing on my behalf.

Had a great time in North Wales and apart from a couple of days the weather was very kind to us. In fact I managed to see the top of Snowdon at least three times with no cloud at all. Think that's a record!!!

Managed to do Welsh Highland, Ffestinog, Llanberis, Welsh Highland Heritage and Talyllyn Railways.

All in all a good time was had.

A few pictures here.......

https://marcussrailwayphotos.smugmug.com/SteamTrains-1/North-Wales-Holiday-2015/

 

Plenty of trains but a few normal holiday shots thrown in.

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Hmm good idea with the stone but I'm not sure that I'm 100% convinced. The stones don't seem to lay properly to me in a way that dry stone wallers would stack them. I wonder if there could be a way to orient them?

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  • RMweb Gold

The walls do look effective, but I agree with Cav, and I had a similar issue with my cat-litter version initially, in that you end up with some flat stones stuck on the side - something that just wouldn't happen in real life.

 

The only answer is careful laying of the stone in the mould. That's why I switched to doing it freehand, (i.e without a slot - just wrapping in cling-film).

 

They do look good from a distance though.

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I would tend to agree with you on the whole as the likes of the Cotswolds do tend to try and lay the stone in some kind of bonding using the same width of stone for each course. Derbyshire stone walls though seem to be all random bits of stone just put together.

Al did the same on Bakewell with his cat litter walls although used a slightly different method.

You'll have to excuse the wife and lad in this one but it does show the random nature of the walling. This ones actually quite neat compared with some.

 

post-18515-0-61984500-1438551244.jpg

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The walls do look effective, but I agree with Cav, and I had a similar issue with my cat-litter version initially, in that you end up with some flat stones stuck on the side - something that just wouldn't happen in real life.

 

The only answer is careful laying of the stone in the mould. That's why I switched to doing it freehand, (i.e without a slot - just wrapping in cling-film).

 

They do look good from a distance though.

Hello Al

You were obviously posting whilst I was writing that last post. I'll have to give your method a try. Any idea where it was on your thread?

If you take a close look in the far right had corner of the picture though you can see a large stone sat on top of a lot of smaller ones.

I think they must have just worked from a heap of stone and used what came first when they built them.

Marcus

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Hello Al

You were obviously posting whilst I was writing that last post. I'll have to give your method a try. Any idea where it was on your thread?

If you take a close look in the far right had corner of the picture though you can see a large stone sat on top of a lot of smaller ones.

I think they must have just worked from a heap of stone and used what came first when they built them.

Marcus

 

Hi mate, I agree with you entirely (having done a bit of drystone walling meself) that Derbyshire limestone walls can appear to be very haphazard, and you are correct in that usually you would cap the wall with larger stones, having built the bulk of it from smaller stuff. The idea is you build two parallel outer walls of random stone with an infill of small rubble and grit. the large stones at the top then bridge the gap.

 

Modelling wise, all I do is lay a sheet of cling-film on a flat surface, run a bead of PVA glue, and lay a layer of stone on top. Then pull up the sides of the cling-film to shape the layer. Then unfold the cling-film, do another layer of PVA, and another layer of stone, and so on.

 

I don't think I've ever photographed the process unfortunately - I'll try and remember next time I do some.

 

Cheers,

 

Al.

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If you could that would be great. The only thing I'm slightly concerned about is whether the real stone will absorb the PVA quickly enough to stay in shape. Obviously cat litter is absorbent in its very nature. I want to use the real stone as I've got an abundance of it and obviously you can't beat the real thing.

Will certainly give it a go though.

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Thanks Peter.

The stone walls are a bit Of a sticking point at the moment.

As Al and Cav have pointed out they are not quite there yet. I'm going to try Al's method although I'm worried the stone won't absorb the PVA quick enough for it to hold together without some kind of a mould. The current walls are 5mm thick and require drying from both sides as the PVA seals on top but it is still wet underneath even after 24 hours.

 

Marcus.

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Hi Marcus, The pics I promised, Firstly Jeff Graingers, (Physicsman) Kirkby Luneside with the walling made from DAS moulded in several different thickness's 

 

post-9335-0-73214600-1438637089_thumb.jpg

 

post-9335-0-11725400-1438637103_thumb.jpg

 

post-9335-0-76033000-1438637152_thumb.jpg

 

And our Clubs Stone walls made a similar way.

post-9335-0-52044700-1438637339_thumb.jpg

 

post-9335-0-06445600-1438637365_thumb.jpg

 

post-9335-0-84191800-1438637415_thumb.jpg

 

post-9335-0-09084100-1438637479_thumb.jpg

 

Hope this helps Mate

 

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Morning Marcus, re looking at our walling and your walling close up, I think yours is a more accurate portrayal of a Derbyshire wall but just needs larger stones / grit or whatever. Ours is to flat and square where as yours is more random shaped stones as depicted in the pic of your Good Lady and Anthony.

 

Had you considered thin roll of DAS or a Plasticine moulded, and shaped over the landscape and then Stones pushed into it? Once set it wont move, its not as though you going to shows with the Layout and carrying it about etc.

Edited by Andrew P
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Hi Marcus

 

I made a master lenght of walling many years ago out of Daz and then cast a mould in rubber from which I made a cast resin master which I have used many times to remake new moulds as they ware out. Thw alling was based on stone walling around Gowhole yard near New mills South junction. The sections are about 9 inches long and when placed in hot wter for a time can be bent in both directions to suit the contors of the ground. If you need any let me know.

Below a shot of it on GTD.

cheers Peter

 

post-6915-0-60283100-1438701162.jpg

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Thanks for all the helpful comments with the walls. I really like the look of all the ones that have been shown on here. I do think Peters would be the most suitable for my layout due to the style. With regards to Peter and Andy's comments I'm going to try and get, or make, a more course sieve so I can make them with bigger stones to try and get a more scale finish.

Peter, I would take you up on your offer but I think I will probably need at least 39 feet of the stuff. I think that maybe asking a bit much of you somehow.

The ones I've made won't go to waste as I will be placing these along the top of the cutting where they will be mixed in with the undergrowth so won't be overly noticeable.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Evening all,

After getting my new PC I thought I would have a go at recording some game footage of train simulator 2015. With this being a new addition to the Peak Dale Wood youtube channel I would like to know what you all think, unless you think its bad.  :sarcastic: well here it is.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxDmMHlvAoI

 

 

Hope you all enjoy.

 

Cheers,

Anthony

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